dbusarow

Use linen thread. You won't be sorry. 5 or 7 cord will probably be what you want. To wax, first thread the needles, then run one needle and thread through something like an eye screw or a small cup hook. Hold both needles in one hand and pull the thread tight, run your beeswax up and down the thread a few times. Done Dan

Do you ever sleep K-Man? Really nice work. Dan

Beeswax as the material to stab into. Rather than cork mentioned earlier. Dan

Just use your beeswax cake as the backing to stab into. Works great. Dan

You might also try using plain old paste shoe polish. Probably mix in a little rubbing alcohol to soften it up and extend the working time. Try this on a piece of scrap!! Dan

That is nice. Any of my girls would love to wear it! Dan

See this post Kevin King How to and pics 11 - 16. Is that what you are looking for? Dan

Wiz, Thanks for the info and for saving me some time and money on these two. I'll keep looking. For the Singer 111W155. Is any 111W OK or does it need to be a 111W155? Thanks, Dan

I'm looking for a dedicated machine for patching horse blankets. I got a Cobra 4 from Steve last year and it is obviously capable but I'd rather not have to change feed dogs, presser feet, thread and tension just to sew on a patch. There are two older Singers up for sale nearby. One is a 15-91 complete with accessories and manual. From what I found online it seems like a fairly capable machine. $125 + 2 hour drive to see it The other is quite a bit closer. A really old Singer treadle. The owner says it has no model number on the plate, just the serial number and patent date. Serial number is 3177929 and newest patent date shown is 1892. Owner thinks it was made in 1895. He says it was working when he put it in storage 16 years ago but broke the belt when he ran the ad in the paper and went to demo it. $175 + 1 hour drive. So, my question to all the classic sewing machine experts here, is either one worth buying? My gut says to go with the newer 15-91 but my heart wants that old treadle machine Thanks, Dan

That's a little far to drop by for coffee.. Anytime you're down around the Whitehall/Silver Star area give me a holler. Dan

Welcome. Where abouts are you? Dan

I used a P3AT to make a pocket holster for an LCP. Being a pocket holster the molding isn't super tight, just snug. The buyer is the mother of a good friend of mine. She uses it almost every day and says it works perfectly. Dan

So you are the young one in the picture, huh? Pretty amazing work for one so young Just kidding. They look really nice. Now you need to repeat using rawhide or leather! Even in paracord I'd be proud to use either set and so would my girls. Dan

At the starting point you wrap over the free end to tie it down. Then at the far end you take the tail end of the lace and thread it back under the lacing you just finished. 10/11 might be a little thin, I'd suggest 12/14 for barrel reins. Dan

If Neels can't help you go to http://www.digikey.com/ and search for "500k potentiometer" You'll have to refine your search in the following pages but you should be able to get a good match. Not the cheapest place to buy components but they have always carried an extensive stock. Dan

Add some more iron and let it "cook" a little longer. What you smell is the acetic acid. Once that has all reacted with the iron to form ferric acetate the smell will go away or at least be reduced to a level I do not notice it. Dan

You should be happy with it! Nice work. My only comment is that I'd have made the lacing match, either 4 straight across or 2 X's. Dan

Pictures are a little small but it looks like you did a nice job for your first one. OWB/IWB combo? Seems to work well. Dan

How about hand tools? Knives, awls, pliers etc.. Dan

Thanks, that's the way I am doing it now. Transfer film and stylus. It's the cutting part on curved letters like G or O where I'm running into a problem. And to be perfectly honest, keeping the baseline straight even on I and T I may end up checking on that. I was trying to avoid a set of letter stamps since they are rather pricy. But I'll soon exceed the cost of a couple sets in scrap leather Thanks Dwight, I will give the dremel with tiny bit a try. If I can keep it from catching the leather and wanting to torque off to the side that may work. I would still really like to fingure out how to do it with a knife though. Thanks all, Dan

There's a post on here somewhere that mentions Peter Main and his ability to carve small/tiny letters. I can't track it down but what I'm really looking for isn't so much that post but a pointer to a book or article with instruction on how to neatly print/carve letters on leather that I am hoping might be somewhere in that thread. I would like to be able to make letters in the 1/8 to 3/16" range that are clear and line up well. I can do the squarish letters like A, N, M etc.. but the letters with curves in them are beyond me. And even with the squared letters I find maintaining a straight line and equal size really really hard. Is there a book that will give me some guidance? Thanks, Dan

I'm with megabit. If the word cheap comes up in a question about gear you don't want to be involved. If you still want to do this buy the book "How to Make Cowboy Horse Gear" by Bruce Grant. It will give you a good idea of what's involved. And cow or roo, I doubt if cheap would be part of YOUR description. Dan

Sorry to hear that Kevin. Hope you get it sorted out soon. I'll miss meeting you. Dan

Order some beeswax cakes if you don't already have them. Very handy stuff for hand sewing. Use it on the backside of the leather when stabbing with the awl. Keeps your fingers from getting stabbed and lubricates the awl at the same time. Stretch the thread tight and run a beeswax cake up and down it several times. You'll know when you have it waxed the way you want it. I've never ordered the waxed linen from Campbell Bosworth, but 5 cord linen should be 5 cord linen. That said the picture makes it look a lot thicker tban the 5 cord I have, from CB, but there is nothing in the picture to provide scale. Dan

Looking forward to meeting you when you get out here. If I'm able to make it to Sheridan I'll look you up. Dan