dbusarow

The picture shows not enough top thread tension. I guess it could be WAY to much bobbin tension but based on my Cobra's bobbin tension vs its top tension the bobbin can't get that tight unless somethings broken. You need to tighten up the top. My top tension is typically set so that I have to release the top tensioner to remove the item being sewed from under the foot. I'd break the needle before I pulled any thread loose without doing that. Dan

Use it to make narrower belt. Cut it again to a size slightly narrower than the current narrowest point. If it is 1 3/8 at the narrowest point go for a 1 1/4" belt. If you try to cut it to the same width as the narrowest spot your strap cutter will become difficult to use at that point. Better to just sacrifice some more width. Dan

I've used an awl to hand stitch 5 layers of 16oz. 80oz total. It was work, but completely doable. Dan

I have used my Cobra Class 4 to sew 2/3 lamb lining onto 4/5 veg-tan using 138 thread and a #21 needle. This was for a rolled edge on a woman's wallet so the real thing had the wallet liner inside as well but I did my adjustments and some practice pieces with just the two pieces of leather. All I had to do was back off both top thread tensioners quite a bit. Other than that nothing to it and the stitches were beautiful. Dan

I think I'll give it a try and let you all know if it works. Dan

Bruce, Can you make your own turnback by folding a bissonnette back on itself? That's what the one in your picture reminds me of. Dan

Take a look at Wickett & Craig's overstock sale. They have a new sale every month and there always seems to be some harness on sale. The weights and grade will vary. This month is only 10-12 oz TR but that should be plenty heavy even for a very large dog. Their TR grade is going to be good. Actually their Special, the lowest grade they sell, has always been very good. Even with freight and import costs I can't imagine it will be too much over $200 if even that much. Dan

Wickett & Craig English Bridle. Beautiful stuff. Dan

Is it the weather? First Lobo, then Shooter Mcgavin and now bobkiss all making holsters for SBR/SBS's There's some cranky people out there today Dan

I really like the way you did the "X", I'm going to steal that Dan

If you are hand stitching the rest of it you'll do fine. I've only used this technique with a machine but the only downside to hand stitching is that you have to go over the length twice, so it is a lot of stitches. But then you are only stitching 2 layers, one very thin the other fairly thin, so stabbing should be easy. I say hand stitch it and post the results! Dan

You can also cut the groove with a utility knife. You just need a very light touch too make sure you don't cut too deep. In essence two cuts, 45degrees off of vertical that meet slightlly over half way through the leather. So with 1/4 thick leather you would like the groove around 3/16" deep. Just make several very light passes getting lightly deeper each time rather than trying to cut it in one pass. Give it a try on some scrap, it is actually not that hard to do. Dan

Yes to both. Harness leather has oils and tallows "stuffed" in. This makes it water resistant and it does not take impressions as well as skirting or tooling, but it does take them and they do last. Skirting leather is just plain old veg tan. If the tooling is important use skirting and then line with latigo. Or line with harness but harness is generally pretty heavy and more expensive than latigo. Dan

Oh man! I bet she brings a few orders back with her from the next match. Those are beautiful. Dan

You can use quite a few different types. I use harness leather, latigo and skirting. Skirting with a latigo lining makes a really nice looking headstall. For breast collars you probably want two layers of skirting sewn together. Harness leather will work for either and does not require linging. But you can line it if you want. All comes down to what you want the final product to look like and how much time you can put into making it. I buy most of my leather from Wickett and Craig. Dan

Jim, Your generosity is incredible. Thank you very much! Dan

Take a look at Kevin King's wallet guts tutorial. It shows how he does edges. I used it on a wallet I made for my mother and even as the first whack at a wallet it came out great. Sorry, no pictures. I've been trying to think of ways to use the technique on holsters ever since. Forgot to add the link. Go here Dan

I'll leave comments on style and utility to those members who actually use purses. But it sure looks pretty to me. I have a question on the edges. I've never worked with hair on hide. Were the edges tough to do? Thanks, Dan

I meant the IMAGE, not the utility. The outfit demands a really nice Hawkens, or even better, a Kentucky rifle. Hand made of course. Dan

KT, your stuff looks great. But that synthetic stocked rifle just doesn't cut it! Dan

I just use my W&C harness for strap goods so I may not notice as much as you. But, on mine the flesh side has never had an oily feel. And on the grain side it goes away real fast. Like the handling during stitching up a pair of reins is enough to "dry" it out. The bridle has a very nice satin finish to my eyes. And it waxes up really nice. I have made a pair of saddle bags and a messenger bag out of the bridle. No rub off. Dan

I'm sure Luke has a better reason. But I'd say the fact that it is "Tailored" rather than cut to roughly the correct size and sewn together might have something to do with it. I'm guessing this would have been a rich gentlemen's "adventuring" outfit. Dan

I'm not the boss, but I don't think there would be any problem with you posting pictures, pricing and contact info right here I'd title the post Bark Tanned though. I looked at this expecting it to be about the death from natural causes leather some folks have started selling. Bark tanned, brain tanned and buckskin is a lot more atractive to most of the folks here. Dan.

Really nice job. Hard to believe it's your first. Work on your edges. Tighten up the stitch lines a little. And you really should sandwich the T nuts between the two layers of leather. That's about it. Dan

When this happened to me the small hole was just plugged up. A little careful scraping of the back side of the hole with a sharp awl got it working again. Dan