dbusarow

I wouldn't call the Osborne junk. It's perfectly functional. And with a Douglas blade the combination is a dream. The Douglas handle is a piece of art. If I had one I'd probably leave it on my desk, just to admire. BTW, every time I use the awl, I do stop for a moment to admire the blade. It's sweet. Dan

$10 vs $30 Dan

Get the Douglas awl blade. They fit in the Osborne handles with a collet. Dan

I'm curious why you plan on supplying tools to experienced craftsmen. Dan

I make my straps about 6' long since that gives you more flexability when mounting. But 40" is plenty if you use the near side D rings. Dan

That would be this one http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9940 Pinned at the top of How Do I do That Dan

Does anyone have instructions on sharpening a bissonnette edger? THanks, Dan

A belt sander will do for something like this. Skive (sand down) a larger piece and cut to size. Dan

Nice work. To punch holes in 3/4" of leather, chuck your diamond awl into the drill press and use the leverage of the press to punch the holes. NO POWER! You have to line the awl blade up carefully and check on it as you go to make sure it doesn't rotate into the wrong angle. Dan

I'm going to agree with Ed in TX here. A #23 with 277 is too small. It will give you fits trying to adjust tension. The thread is not going to be sliding smoothly through the needle so it acts like the top tension is too high. BUT the hole punched in the leather is too small so it can act like the top tension is too loose. And these two do NOT average out. Use a #24 or a #25 for 277. Dan

Make measurement #2 10" and adjust the other dimensions to match. I am basing this on measuring an 1861 Navy which I'm pretty sure is the gun it was designed for. Dan

Stay away from the low end. Like Cyberthrasher, I suggest Osborne as a good middle ground. The oblong punches you have listed are fairly expensive (the ones that are not are trash). You can use round punches in combination with various sized chisels to accomplish the same thing as the oblong punch. Not sure what you mean by oval punches in the large size listed. The smaller oval punches are very nice for belts. I have Master Tools punches from Weaver for both round and oval punches. Not cheap but they are worth every penny. Dan

With really thin leather you probably can. But it is a "pricking" iron, as in beaking the skin. Dan

The purpose of the pricking iron is to simple mark the stitch holes. Similar to an overstitch wheel but with clearer marks and a readily apparent angle. You still use the awl. Dan

Hi Butch, One more request for the pattern dan@fishcreekleatherworks.com Thank you sir! Dan

I was expecting the hole punch with a tail style. Can you describe/demonstrate how this guy works? Dan

I really like that finish on an old time rig. Dan

Your attention to detail is simply amazing. Thanks for posting the progress. Dan

Got any hints for us on those time saving measures? Thanks, Dan

Very nice work Fred. Dan

Wow, what a great idea. Thanks! Dan

I agree. Outstanding work for your first few. Dan

Even without the feed dogs you still have the walking foot and the needle which are both moving the leather. The only thing I can think of is that you have the stitch length arm in the center position. Dan

Straight bag-kote will streak, but I've never had it that bad. My damp sponge technique seems to cut it just enough to work for me. Try applying more with the damp sponge and see if it helps even things out. Dan

I use a damp sponge to apply. You can apply another coat and it may help. Dan