dbusarow

How much thread you need depends on how thick the belt is. My advice is that you not worry about it. There is no practical way to stitch a belt without changing thread. Go with the longest length you are comfortable with so you don't specnd too much time changing thread, rethreading the needles. I usually use a thread that goes from my left hand to just past my right shoulder. Nothing magic about the decision, that's just an easy length for me to handle. Dan

Thank you all for the ideas. I think Luke's is the first one I'll try. Luke, trying to read between the lines on your post, would I sketch the outline I want and then use the ball peen hammer to "cut" out the shape? Thanks again! Dan

Does anyone have a suggestion for a method to work 8/10 oz. veg tan in order to produce an edge something like the "torn" edges at the belly, legs and shoulder of a side? What I'm trying to reproduce is a look something like this bag and use it on a large laptop case. The man I'm making it for is my pastor who is also an active trapper and loves the mountains and the trapper era. Due to the size of the piece I need using the belly isn't practicle. I need to create the look from a cut edge. Thanks! Dan

I do have a pattern but it's on paper and is about 2'x4'. Can't scan it in. Making the pattern was similar to making any pouch/envelope style holster. Take a big sheet of paper (I use the paper that W&C wraps their sides in), establsh a center line, line the rifle/scope up vertically on the center line and then carefully roll it over to the side. Once down on the side trace the outline. Add 1/2 the width of the rifle etc.. I'm not sure this simple style will work for a scope much bigger than a typical 3x9-40. The space around the scope would make the rig too tall to work well. See Stohlman's 'Art of Making Cases Vol 3' for a rather elaborate scoped rifle case that should work for just about anything. Dan

Thanks Troy. Yes, the ripped leather is what convinced me that I am NOT using ring shanks when I put it back together. Josh, I was looking at the saddle this morning and figured out what you mean. You're right, it does look safe. Thanks for the reminder of the screw behind the cantle. The nails there were a bear to get out too, and screws seem like a simple choice there. And yes, I am putting this back together in a way that will allow me to do it again a LOT easier. That is a wise rule. Thanks guys. Dan

I have some #10 SS screws and washers. I don't think I would risk using one to attach the skirts though. Isn't that likely to touch the horse? Thanks for the confirmation that galvanized will work Dan

I'm replacing the sheepskins on one of my saddles. The original builder used ring shank nails to hold the skirts on. I am not going to do that, I may need to take it apart again sometime. My question is, are local hardware store galvanized nails OK for tackng on skirts? Or should I order SS nails? Thanks, Dan

Two layers all the way on the end. I stop the bottom layer early at the buckle end so after folding there are two layers full length. Dan

I agree with dirtclod. Call em up and ask what's going on. I've had a couple of orders take over a month but they told me up front there would be a wait on those. Usually get an order within a couple of weeks. Dan

See this post pinned at the top of the Holster forum California Slim Jim Holster Tutorial and Patterns You will probably need to adjust the pattern as it is for an 1860 Army instead of the 51 Navy. But it should be awful close and is a great tutorial. The post pinned at the very top of the Holster section takes you step by step through making your own pattern. Dan

Sounds like a truly helpful librarian. Please do post when you get the CD Thanks, Dan

Wet form the gussets before sewing. See Stohlman's Custom Saddle Bags for detailed instructions http://www.sdtradingco.com/books-saddles.htm Dan

I also like both the idea and the result. Good job. Dan

Standard is A Utility is B Special is C But you will find that their Special (C grade) is probably a lot nicer than anything youve used before. You get spoiled though. I've switched to Utility and am considering moving up to Standard. Dan

Since he has the same problem using a different computer it can't be a cookie issue. Dan

Your top tension needs to be a lot tighter than the bobbin. The tensions need to be balanced, not equal. Dan

I agree with Josh Ashman's statement. There's always something you can use. When we are in the arena my wife always "needs" a mounting block, or she gets on from the fence. Funny thing is, when we are up in the mountains she always manages to get on from the ground somehow. Big rocks count as the ground Dan

particle, My Cobra 4 acts the same way. All of the speed control is in the 1st 1/8" of travel of the arm. Steve did send me another motor to try and it's the same as the first. I figure that's just the way they are. I just adjusted max speed way down. Maybe after I've been using it a couple more years I'll be able to handle higher speeds. I've been thinking about ordering one of the Techsew servo motors and trying that. I'll take a look at Gregg's too. Dan

If you look at the pictures in his article you can see that the rust barrel doesn't turn the leather black like vinagaroon. It discolors the leather, sort of distressing it. Remember that Will is trying to make the holster look like it's been used hard for many years. Dan

I'm still pretty new at this machine stitching but that sure looks like your needle is too big. The top tension is too high BUT there is a balance between thread size, needle size and the tensioners. Use the thread size/needle size chart in the Cobra owner's manual as a starting point for the thread/needle size pair. If your thread and needle match then start reducing the upper tension. Make sure that you adjust slowly and adjust both upper tensioners in tandem. I emptied my scrap box pretty quickly doing test stitches when I first got mine. Dan

I want one! Keith, that is simply amazing. Can you describe the fender stirrup leather adjustment a little more? I don't see how you would get up there to make the adjustment. Thanks, Dan

The patterns are in Volume 1, the instructions are in Volume 2. I'd get both. Volume 1 has a lot of good, general information in addition to the patterns you are really going to want to have. Also remember that to cover a horn properly you need to remove the swell covers. With volumes 1 and 2 you pretty much have everything on building a saddle, volume 3 covers some options but all of the basics are in 1 and 2. Knowing how to build one will help you figure out how to rip one appart without destroying it Good luck. Holler if you need more help. Dan

Your first holster?? Come on. Seriously nice job dude. Dan

Re Heaven Revelations 19:11 Then I saw heaven opened and here came a white horse! The one riding it was called "Faithful" and "True," and with justice he judges and goes to war. Yes, there are horses in heaven. Good thing too or my wife would switch sides Dan

I have one in my saddle bag. Just in case I need to sew something while I'm on the trail. Dan