dbusarow

Order the unwaxed and wax it yourself. http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/6_71_73/products_id/1290 I have an eye screw screwed into the wall, loop the threaded needles through the eye and run a piece of beeswax up and down the thread several times. Couldn't be easier and you get to control how much wax is on the thread. Dan

It should work just fine. Be sure to dry it off well before adding to the vinegar. Dan

Absolutely necessary. They put the oil on there to keep the wool from rusting in the bag, in the store. The oil works just as well keeping your vinegar away from the steel too. Start over. Dan

You do not want rust (ferric oxide) you want ferric acetate. Clean the steel wool of any oil it may have, I soak in acetone and then squeeze and allow to dry. Put the clean, dry steel wool in the vinegar and let it sit. Dan

That's interesting. The wipes or the liguid? Thanks, Dan

About the middle of the pinned topics in this section. Finishing Edges Dan

This is only my opinion, but, don't use the clips. You will look pretty silly pointing your holster at the BG. Use straps, leather or kydex. There are lots of pictures of completed IWB holsters on this forum to give you ideas to work on. Also just MHO but you can get away with a lot less belt when carrying IWB than OWB. I often wear a single layer 10oz bridle leather belt when carrying AIWB. My OWB belts are all double layer 7/8oz. Dan

000 is way too big. Contrary to what you might think looking at that size code, that is the largest of the harness needles. Here's a chart I copied from the CS Osborne site. Lost all the formatting when I posted. Here's a link to the chart. I usually use #3's but have 1s and 2 also. That's with linen thread though, I don't think I could thread any of these needles with Tandy's prewaxed thread. Dan

Thanks particle. So I was also saying it wrong for years. Dan

For those of us without the videos, is it not bee ahn kee ?? Dan

W&C bridle is pretty water resistant as is. I just put a little Leather Balm on and buff it out. Dan

Dave Cole is a member here, dcknives Send him a PM Dan

That could be part of your problem too. The awl blade shouldn't be running into anything too hard after going through the leather. Depending on what your cutting mat is made of, IT may be damaging the awl blade, OR you may be going through the mat and hitting the bench below and that could be hurting it. Nothing intrinsically wrong with using the awl your way, just be very carefull that once the blade goes through the leather it cannot hit anything harder than the leather. Dan

For concealment holsters I use 6/7 for pretty much everything and my customers are happy. My thinking is if 1/10" in slide thickness is important to me then the 10th of an inch you save using 6/7 vs 8-10oz is important too. I only do summer special style IWB though, with the throat band. You will need something to stiffen the throat. An example. Dan

Springfield Leather (see their banner ad up above) has pretty much everything Tandy does plus much better leather. Dan

Holly, That's kind of what she has in mind, only too modern. Something like this (from octobercountry.com) is closer to what I'm thinking about. BTW, how did you stitch the seam below the handle? Looks like that would have been a nightmare to do. Thanks, Dan

My pastor's wife would like to give her husband a bible cover. But not just a bible cover, she wants it to look like a possible bag. So basically a simple bag sized to hold a bible (8.25 x 10.25 x 1.75) and tough enough for using/carrying everyday in rural Montana. He would be carrying it around town and back in the mountains in sunshine, rain and snow. BTW, I've never made a bible cover or a possible bag. Can someone recommend a good book or pattern set to get me started? Thanks, Dan

I have not tried hand stitching a rolled edge but I did think about it while doing some on a machine. What I would do is use the basting tape as suggested (I actually used double sided scotch tape for mine) and then use a beeswax cake as a backer for the thin leather when stabbing the holes. Other than having to make twice as many stictches as normal I don't see any problem at all. And when hand stitching dealing with the corners will be a lot easier. BTW, Thank You Kevin, great tutorial and a great way to set your items apart from the crowd. Dan

I agree, very nice. Dan

I like it. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Dan

It's Volume Three of Making Leather Cases. You'll be happy you bought it. Dan

Let me add another Good Job! Can't wait to see your 2nd, 3rd etc.. I would also like to see a photo of the back and a better shot of the main seam. Maybe we could critique your edging Dan

Well thank you sir! I appreciate the tooling some of the masters here produce but mine just doesn't measure up. So I try to concentrate on just producing a nice piece of work that can stand on its own. Brady (the roan) didn't even seem to notice she had anything extra to carry. Dan

Poke around on the Double H site. Look under Saddles then Tree Styles. Looks like you need to call for pricing and ordering. Or look at Chi Stockyrd Saddle Tree's site. I know nothing about them other than I've been lookiing myself. Dan