Denster

It's built like a swiss watch. Most of the reported probllems are from the usual Kimber bashers and some from folks who can't read the instruction manual that came with the gun. On one of the forums a guy was griping because he bought a new one cleaned it and went to the range and the slide locked open every shot. It's obvious he didn't read the manual. Kimber put a tensioning spring on the slide release. When you reassemble it you have to make sure the little slot in the slide release picks up the end of the spring or the slide will lock open every shot. The manual explains it with pictures but who reads manuals:). The rumors that Kimber stopped shipping is because guys have had them on order for a long time and have not received them. The reason for this is that the waiting lists are really long. I was number 65 at my dealer. I lucked into a guy at the gun show that had received his after several months but had in the intervening time bought something else and he had read some of the bashing on the forums so he decided to sell it. Serioiusly I can't find anything not to like about it. I use a slot punch I bought from Texas custom die.

Why not just lightly caase the leather and rub or tap them out? Sandpaper will really mess up the grain side.

Actually I didn't mark it. I see what you mean in the photo must be a reflection. I didn't take it further because it would serve no purpose and I needed room on the back for my makers mark.

Jeff That is drum dyed 8Oz Hermann Oak.

Eric The SOLO is Kimbers pocket nine. I think Kimber has a real winner with this one. Yes that is an ambi mag release. I like molded over mag relase points particularly on ambi's. In any case it's not a problem with the Kimber as it requires a firm push to release an empty mag with a full mag it requires a really firm push. I think Kimber overbuilt it due to the recoil of this little pocket rocket. It's managable but sharp. I like this little gun. Reliable and much more accurate than it needs to be.

I've had a number of requests for holsters for the Kimber SOLO. I finally managed to get my hands on one last week and here is what I have come up with so far. Let me know what you think good, bad or indifferant.

That design looks like it might work OK with top load pockets like jeans. With side load pockets like dress slacks I'd be concerned that it would allow the weapon to roll back in the pocket. I've had good luck with contouring the bottom of the holster to the same shape as the bottom of the pocket. YMMV

The cast iron model is right at 40lbs the aluminum cast is right at 25 lbs. The cast iron model, from my perspective, offers nothing of advantage over the aluminum cast one and while not hard to do should be retrofitted with the thread take up arm tension spring.

I have two Boss' both bought used and they have sewed now over 4,000 holsters + misc belts, mag pouches etc. I have a aerostitch that I now do belts on and liners for western rigs that due to size are a bit complicated on the Boss. Even with a powered machine I still do 90% of holsters on the Boss for much the same reasons that Dwight stated. They are dirt simple to work on. That is if you ever need to the only thing I have broken is a presser foot cable and three needles.

I don't believe there is anyway to cut two perfectly matched pieces even with a cllicker and dies you will have a small varience. Grooving and stitching after edge dressing is the proper way.

George You may want to double check that. I don't believe that Ruger has changed the dimensions of the frame. At least it does not indicate so on their site. I am guessing you are refering to the Gunblast article. Did you look closely at the photos? I don't consider that fitting but YMMV.

I used some today that is over two years old. The only difference I noted is that it has lost a lot of it's smell. Mine is a very deep burgundy color.

J frame will not work. It is significantly smaller that the frame of the SP101

Exactly! You said it better than I did.

First off relaxyou didn't do it. For that type of gun if it has been fired or cycled more than 20 times you will have those marks they are unavoidable. Tape is not capable of removing normal gun finishes however if the owner colored those marks with cold blue or magic marker, yes some guys do that, tape can remove it. In any case those marks are normal to the gun and you didn't do it.

Nice work. Welcome to the forum. Nice to see another Buckeye on here.

Eric Check your PMs

I used to have an occassional separation at the belt slots or the edges.I use Masters contact cement. I started hammering the glued area after putting the peices together. Just laying it on my marble slab and tapping overall with a cobblers hammer. Made all the difference in the world. makes for a real tight inseperable joint. As Lobo said giving it some drying time before wet forming and heat drying is a good idea.

I do take paypal. PM sent

Here is a Barry King 64Oz Mallet in like new condition. Just what you need to drive those larger mallet dies. Asking $50 which includes shipping in the CONUS.

All in the name of science.

The only problem with the bigger hammer(press) solution is that you run the risk of top grain tearing even if you case the leather. With the steep angle by the time the edge gets through two layers of 8/9OZ your 3/8" X1&1/2" slot on the bottom is 1/2X1&5/8" on the surface as that steep angle has to stretch it's way through. Just much simpler to properly grind it to start with.

+1 on Texas Custom Dies. They will make them to any dimension you require and the steel is excellent. The only problem is you may have to regrind them as, unless they have changed their process, they will come sharpened as bag punches. Which means a very steep angle that is OK for punching through 4 to 6 OZ leather but you will never drive it through two layers of 8/9OZ without modifying it somewhat.. Not a hard job and once done I can drive it though with one whack from my 4lb maul.