Monticore

i coudln't find it at siegels would one of you have a link to the cabretta goat.

i am new to leather and buying leather sight unseen sucks and with the nearest tandy 4 hours away online is the only way. i am looking for a thin leather to line the underside of watch bands, so soft, dyable is a bonus would anybody have any suggestions available from tandy, pig/calf what ever . cory

i have been using a variety or method found on this forum but i still can't get a smooth finish , i always get some smooth parts and other parts with little holes that did not seem to be filled with wax/gum and when i rub more the fibres stand up . if i use gum should i not use wax or water at all or do i still water with canvas, also my problem is the leather i have using to make my watch straps is soft so when i burnish holding it in my hand it creasing the op side a bit. so after i am done working with the leather, sewing, burnishing, etc.. it is full or creases and fold marks.

does anybody have a supplier for exotic , scraps or pieces in canada?

since lci doesn't sell to small timers like me and weaver only sells their similar product(from i have read its similar) only to registered businesses is there somewhere else i could find a similar edge paint.? i really like the fact it comes in different colors i assume like me most people like using leather colors other than brown or black.

i am in process of starting a small business mostly as a hobby and for taxes but i am not registered business at the moment so cannot buy from weaver's has anybody used their edge paint? and how does it compare to edge kote.

thanks for all the tips , i am getting the hang of it , i will try my rotary cutter i did not like it for some of my other stuff so forogot about it.

http://www.leathercoatings.com/edge.htm has anybody ever used their products or know how and where to get them.

i made sure to use a new blade in my utility knife, i think the problem is it was folded over making near 6-7mm thick so if i use too much pressure it compresses the leahter and if i don;t use enough(with my metal ruler) it slides/pulls, i might be cutting to slow i will try some bees wax on the blade and faster cut so it doesn't grab. if i cut it to size before folding/gluing it is so soft i will have a hard time aligning the edges.

I just got soft super soft 6-7oz bison but i am having a hard time making precise cuts due to the leather thickness and suppleness it tends to stretch/pulls/roll is there a trick to handling this type of leather. would sticking it into the freezer help ? thanks again cory

great , i am using tandy's contact cement , i may have to try barge if this one doesn;t work out.

i am trying to make some stitchless watch straps using contact cement as adhesive but i was wondering if there was way to use some sort of internal stitching or other fixation, because i don;t know how well the cement would hold over time, especially the buckle piece which has a skived joint on the underside. any suggestions

hi i was wondering if anybody knows what this guy probably used on his edges looks like acrylic pain but i was wondering how he would keep it from chipping is there a sealer for acrylic paints that would work? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v622/sha.../100_7964-1.jpg

a few more straps i made they are pretty plane , but wonder if anybody would have some tips on making the finishing better. also i am looking for a good spot to get leather in ontario / canada hopefully by the piece and not full sides, pm with ifno please.

for some reason when i use denim/rag/t-shirt/canvas i never get a smooth finish , am i not working hard enough or putting too much pressure? my process(been working with leather about 2 months. 1-sand edges square with drill mounted 80 sanding bit , then wet and sand with 400-600 grit 2-apply gum let dry 10 minutes then slick with plastic bone folder. tandys slicker is too small for the thickness i am using. 3-either dye with edge kote, or leave natural 4- once kote is dry or if natural i then apply beeswax and go at it with the bone folder till it heats the kote up nice and sticky. i tend to repeat the process a second time. 5- then i burnish with my finger seems to get a lot of heat going and a smoother finish. i am waiting on some antlers to try, but otherise how does it sound ?

in general i sew the pieces once glues but not always some straps look better without stiches , the contac cement has been working ok so far but its a pain to use , i may try the tandy leatherweld having a bottle to dispeense the glues seems less messy than the brushes.

I was wondering which glue/cement would be best for watch straps, i have been using lock tite contact cement but i wonder if the leather specific stuff odes better. maybe a few recommendations i could get from a hardware store , if not something tandy carries, if from tandy i would need to get it shipped so something i could get localy would be preferred.

Hello, I am new to leather working and new to the forums , i started making watch straps maybe 3 weeks ago i really enjoy it but i think i can make them better. I used a lot of tips found on this forums regarding burnishing/edging but i am still not sure if i have it as best as i could , i am also not sure if the leather i am using makes it harder to get that store bought look. please take a look and comment , good or bad i am just trying to get better. i is welcome some suggestions on different styles of stitching or where i can find leather. thank you for your time Monti