teresamwong

I have a Typical brand leather sewing machine, cylinder arm, thousands of dollars worth of leather, all the tools and thread, and I would like to sell it all - as a package or individually. Any suggestions on where to start? The machine is attached to a table and has a servo motor so it is very heavy and would be expensive to ship. The model is Typical CG2603. It has 10.5 inches throat space, up to 6 mm stitch length, excellent condition (hardly used). It was $1,300 new. I have many full hides, speciality leathers, and collection of large scraps. Plus all the tool, rivets, 2 hand press for punching holes and rivets, etc. No idea how to price this. I am not looking to recoup my costs - more interested in moving all of it out of my home in Houston, Texas.

Thanks Ed and Mark. I will give Barges a try. I did have better results with the Tanners when I let it dry longer and sanded the finished sides. I appreciate the advice from everyone!!!

Fascinating. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks Tom and Studio-N. I am applying as directed, to both surfaces, but did not sand. I am going to try that now. Teresa

Thanks to both of you. I am trying to glue leather to leather, and in some cases there is metal from the hardware backing. I will try sanding. I did not do that before and I think that may be one issue. Thanks for the replies! Teresa

I need a really strong glue to attach small things - leather logo, small patches to cover hardware, etc. - on handbags. I recently bought Tanner's Bond Contact Cement from Tandy. The sales guy said I would need a crow bar to remove stuff with this glue... but half the stuff I have glued just peels right off, quite easily. In some cases it is working. What't the deal? I need a really, fail proof glue. Would prefer water based so as not to have the chemicals since I work in my house and have a dog at my side. But I am only using this for a few minutes a day. I want something badass that won't come apart. Please help! Teresa

Just saw the previous post about Swann Morton surgical knife. i am going to try this! Thanks!

These are good comments. I make handbags. I also use the Tandy skiver pictured in the 1st post. And yes, the blades do wear out after 5 minutes of use. I even bought the better quality ones. I am going to try the Shick Injector blades too. that Tandy skiver has got to be the most un-ergonomic tool ever invented. what were they thinking? I guess they got me to buy it... but it is so awkward to use and horrible to hold. i appreciate the suggestions for the knives above, but I am not good with knives... I do need more of a safety feature. any similar skivers with a handle you can recommend? Teresa

I stitch on the machine nearly everyday. My machine is a Typical cylinder arm, the back stitches are not perfect - but I have gotten better at it. One thing you should think about is using a lighter thread in the bobbin. I have found (after 20 years of sewing experience) when you have a thick top thread, the bobbin needs something slightly thinner. That might help with the knotting issue and thread jams. When I sew with a topsttich thread, I never use the same thread in the bobbin. I buy the same thread color in 2 weights, lighter in bobbin. Teresa

Hi. Thanks for the comments. I've attached a photo. It is difficult to show the wrinkles with a low res photo. This leather is definitely not milled... its regular natural veg tan. I have read about tumbling before. I think that a lot of the manufacturers do this to soften leather. YinTx - thanks for the comment about Hermann Oak. I might call the owner of the store and ask if the wrinkles are normal... or if they can be avoided. Maybe next time I will purchase direct from Hermann Oak.. Teresa

Thank you for your answer Sonydaze. I have to admit... I have no idea how to do what you are suggesting. I am not that tool oriented, I guess. But I appreciate the effort. I need something super easy.

I'm a handbag designer and maker. Occassionally I like to sew with nat veg tan leather. I love the patina it develops over time. However, as you know, it can be stiff at first and difficult to shape without wetting it etc. Last week I was at a new leather store and the owner showed me some beautiful nat veg tan hides. He offered to tumble it for me so it would be softer. I accepted. I have never bought any leather that has been tumbled so I thouhgt it would be interesting. The leather was shipped to me and it is definitely softer. However, it is filled with wrinkles. I assume these will relax with time. Is that correct? Does anyone recommend tumbling this type of leather? My hide is 3-4 oz. I have to admit it is nice and soft and easier to sew so far. I'm just worried about the how the wrinkles look, compared to that super smooth look of the natural hide. Thoughts? Teresa

Hi. Hotels is a good idea. Thanks! Mike: I would love to purchase your scrap hide at $2 a pound! That is a great deal. I do use small parts and make small bags from scraps. I will get back to you next month or so. Thanks so much for the offer! Teresa

Thanks for the comments! Your encouragement is really helping me today! To answer your questions about the photography - yes, I would be glad to help. My husband and I are both professional photographers, which helps of course. But the set up is not that hard - you can do it too! The main thing is to get a clean background. The other is good lighting. You can use a camera phone. Here is a photo of a photo shoot in my studio. I have a big work table in the middle of the room. We purchased a couple sets of photographer stand (collapsible... and I use them for another thing). We bought a roll of white photo back drop paper. You could also use a white fabric, or another color depending on what you are shooting. The paper is nice because you can get that curved edge, which give the photo a very professional look... infinity edge. We do have professional lights, LED. But you can also use a window with good sunlight. You want the light to come from one side only! Not from every direction. Shooting outside is difficult, you want to avoid direct sun, its too harsh. The pole hanging over the purse here is used to tie the straps up with thread. Looks good to show the straps up in air. I also shoot some photos with the straps hanging down, and we shoot some handbags with me wearing them to show scale. And underneath my table is my friend Tom. He hangs out with me in the studio all day! Let me know if you have other questions! Teresa

Thanks everyone for the comments! I so appreciate your feedback. I love the look too, but your definition of it being "classic" is awesome. Thanks!! I made this from a leather I bought at Tandy on the discount rack - the hide of this speckled black was about $6O! It was a steal!!! The leather is soft and only has a slight sturdiness - guessing about 3 oz. I like the color for a bag like this, gives it a little more interest. You asked about the interior - I made it! I have been quilting for 2O years. I use a lining called "Soft & Stable" that is made by a company called By Annie. This is awesome stuff. It does exactly what the name suggests. I quilted it with a super soft canvas cotton. I have a Bernina quilters edition sewing machine. I covered the edges of the lining and inserted it into the leather case. Because it fits so nicely, I did not need to use any glue or anything. This padding and the quilted lines, combined with the leather outside, make for a really nice fit inside the case. I have a Typical cylinder arm for sewing leather. I made the tassels by hand. Thanks again for your very nice comments! Love it! Teresa