azrider

What I used to do before I got a grover was to make the fold over the sharp edge of my stamping stone, and then use a #2 edger to make a grove. Once wetted and formed, this seemed to work well.

Mine was based on wanting something that sounded western but would still work with a larger group, Drygulch Leatherworks. I do know there is a Drygulch Bead Company, and a Drygulch Trading Post. Both are mulitple states away from me, and I didn't see much over lap. As long as its not offensive, you don't really have to explain your company name. Had another bussiness dealing with aquarium fish called Drygulch Aquatics, and prior to that was a partner in Sonoran Aquatics. I would find some thing that you identify with, and find some variations on the word. You can call it Iron Leatherworks, Iron Arts, or use different descriptions.

I picked up a jacket from the 50s that is labeled as deerskin, but feels like chrome tanned leather. Just curious about about the care for this one? I am assuming it is same as my motorcycle jackets, skidmores, and silicone to water proof. Does that sound right? Should fringe (only about 2 inches long) be treated the same way?

Biggest change in my work was a pair of mauls from Bearman. I didn't realize how often I would use them, but they make a huge difference, even if I am just driving punches. I would get one in a 14-16 oz and one in a 20-22 oz weight.

WHOO HOO! I hit the button with 2 times, said the magic swear words, and it is turning in the correct direction now. Thanks for the help, all!

Also, this is not the motor shown on the artisan website. It does not have a dial like the ones shown.

Art, I did double check this, because my thread keeps binding up in the bobbin. When I have the lever in the forward positon, the walking feet walk backwards, and when I put it in reverse, they walk forward. It won't sew under power right now, in either direction. Handwheeling it seems to work. Jimbob, I checked for a slide lever, there isn't one on the top, bottom, or back of the servo, or on either side. I can get two displays on the motor by pressing the buttons. One is a 5.0 - 5.4, and the second is 1-11. I thought I saw the letter R flash when I was initially trying to adjust it, but have not been able to make it do that again. This is like trying to figure out a phone without the book.

I purchased a used Artisan Toro 3000 on Monday. I has an Artisan DC Servo motor with a numeric display and two buttons marked with up and down arrows. I tried to slow down the motor, and somehow made the motor so it runs backwards. I looked through the paperwork, DVD, and Artisan's website, and they don't have any instructions on how to adjust the servo motor. Does anyone one know how to fix this? (The artisan store is closed for the holidays.)

I just got mine in today, and its a pretty nice quality one. Don't mind the price for a good buckle, and it should make the customer pretty happy. I need to give them a call about thier hardware. Glad it helped.

http://www.bullhidebelts.com/Extra-Buckle_p_11.html I haven't seen it yet, but last week I ordered a 1.75 inch wide double pronged roller buckle in brass from them. I couldn't find it anywhere else.

I recently did a wallet with red edges at a customer request. I used a red sharpie marker to dye the edges, and had this issue on all the edges. I used Minwax Polycrylic Clear finish to seal them, and it worked well. This is avalible at Home Depot in 8 oz tins. I also use this on the back side of belts and dog collars, after it has been dyed. My dog's collar has held up great for 2 years now. This stuff is water based, but once dry is very water resistant, but is still flexible.

I will sometimes finish the top and edges of the belt, and then flip it over on a cloth of some sort (once it is completely dry) and use a little water on the back, and rub saddle soap in with a piece of canvas. This will help clean up the back of the belt. Once thats dry, I sometimes will add a finish on the backside of the belt as well.

The double book covers I have seen have almost been two simple book covers sewn together, so there was a flap in center to catch both books. The edges have flaps sewn in them to hold the actual books, and the whole thing closes and is secured closed with a snap or buckle.

I picked up a used Artisan Toro 3000 yesterday. Its a pretty awesome machine. I have no idea how long the learning curve will take, but I have several boxes of scrap to work on. Only problem so far, my wife pointed out that I spent more on this machine than I did on her engagement ring...

I didn't really start getting traffic on Etsy untill I had about 100 items in the shop. They just don't show up in the searches. The big thing I noticed on your shop was that your listings don't say that you take paypal. If you are listing online, most people want the buy it now options. I would recomend adding paypal, and a lot more inventory. It took me almost a year to build my inventory, take pictures, and make new listings. Check out your shop stats through Etsy or google analytics. See what people are searching for, and make sure you use every tag you can, and have the key ones in the listing title. Good luck!

I bought one of these head knives when they first started carrying them. I used it for a couple of years, but would always grab a utility knife or skife for skiving and long cuts. It had to be sharpened every few weeks, and constantly stroped. A few months ago I got two modern (Harrison) Osborn knives. One was used, and one new. I didn't pay much under retail, but I was OK with that. The steel holds an edge so much better than the Stolman knife. I have only had to touch up the blades with the buffing wheel, but have not had to get the stones out to sharpen it. With these knives, long cuts are easy, and I can actually skive like it shows in the book. That makes things a lot easier. http://www.mainethread.com/cutting_tools.html has both a round or head knife for under $65 bucks. I would just save the money and get an osborn knife to start, instead of the shiny tandy one.

I have just started playing with this. I did one that is 50/50 parafin/bee's wax. You can get parafin wax anywhere that sells canning supplies. I use silicon muffin cups, and heat them in a glass dish in the oven until melted. I have also played around with bee's wax olive oil at about a 50/50 mix. I use this on softer leathers, to stiffen up the edges enough to burnish. I would be intrested in hearing other ways to do this too.

So far I am just using the press with the ram, and a few plates of steel. Running Roan, could you post a picture of yours?

Thanks for the advice, all. I will be pulling the head off the table, and straping it down to the front seat. I will strap down the stand in the back. (This was also what Artisan recomended.) Hey, Randy. I don't know if you remember me, but I met you about a year ago when you did a presentation to the Santa Fe Trail Leather Artists' Guild at Steve Chamber's house. I met Ed earlier this year and have stopped by his shop several times. Maybe we can get you back to a guild meeting this year. Yeah, I figured Missori Sewing Machine was going to be the closest shop that can work on these. They are about an hour from my house so I am hoping to avoid having to take it in.

I am about to buy a used machine that is a 4 hour drive from my house. Its a 441 clone with a 12 inch arm, assembled, working, and no packing material avalible. So I see two options. 1) Put it in the truck, covered with a blanket, and tie it down. 2) remove the head from the stand, put the head in the cab, and reassemble when I get home. I am over an hour from the nearest sewing machine shop that I know works on these type of machines, so I would very much like to avoid damaging the machine. Any tips or suggestions on the best way to move this beast and get it home in good shape? Thanks, all.

I don't think this one is hand made, but it is certainly old. I have been over at Bager and Blade doing research. Have a straight razor and hone coming my way, so I will be able to test what ever I make. I may be on a wild goose chase looking for hardware like what is pictured. The box it was in was dated 1930, but it was less than two dollars. The big thing I am looking for is a strap end and a ring with the swivel. I have seen quite a few strop makers using these, but since I want to make these for sale, I haven't asked any of them for a source. I may end up going with the snaps to start out with, since these are so hard to find.

Thanks for the suggestion, Luke. I have checked quite a few hardware stores, and most seem to only carry swivel snaps like what is used on a dog leash, with a flat end instead of a round ones. I went to a hardware store today that has been open since 1905. They had one of what I was looking for that was in the very back of the bin. What I would like to find is a source for this type of hardware, so I can get some more. I took this piece into a couple of chain hardware stores, and was told "good luck" by the employees. Any suggestions?

Working on a barber's strop for a straight razor. Initially planned on using a large D-Ring to hang the thing, but was wondering if anyone knew where to locate the type of hardware that attaches to the top of the strop, and has a swivel ring? I have done quite a few searches on google and shaving forums, and am only able to find swivel snaps, not anything that goes into a ring. Spent an hour or so looking through OTB's online catalog with no luck either. Any idea of where to find these?

Not having much luck finding information on the 108 series of Singers. If these don't have the walking foot setup, can they still be used for wallets and belts? Can they be converted to a walking foot?

So I got a custom order the other week for a wallet with a magnetic money clip. The gentleman showed me the one he had been carrying for years, and said make one like this. Mythbusters says a magnet won't wipe a credit card, but creditcard.com says a constant exposure to a magnetic field will. Dude has been carrying his wallet for years he said with no issues. Has anyone made this type of wallet or dissected one of the commercial ones? What size and strength of magnet did you use? Any suggestions?