Tac

Wow. I like the tooling and the lacing. May I ask what the top pouch is for?

I don't spray resolene, but I do spray on dye occasionally. I use a cheap airbrush that I picked up at the hobby store. I think it cost me about $13 if I remember correctly. I already had the air compressor. I haven't had to do anything to it at all, other than clean it up after each use. When I get done using it, I put some alcohol in the feed bottle and spray it out onto a rag to clean the nozzle and the bottle. Works great. -Tac

When using the "real" firearm, if you wipe it with an oily rag and wrap the gun in a sheet of plastic wrap, then use it to mold the holster, you will have good detail to the molding and few (if any) problems with the moisture causing rust on the gun. -Tac

Wow, thats a nce rig for a light mounted Glock. I can't see due to the color and shadow in picture, but is the light portion of the holster closed via stitching or is it left open? I assume the rivet holding the muzzle of the holster closed was at the request of the user? or is it to help position the pistol due to the longer light extending past the muzzle? -Tac P.S. I have never built a light mounted rig, but might try my hand at it if I ever get caught up on orders.

Thanks for saving me some money guys... Especially your response Boomstick... First hand experience is the best. I am not inclined to go the vacuum route and I don't have the patience/skills needed to make my own vice from scratch. I was looking at a cheap alternative with the press in the link. I will keep looking for another alternative. Thanks again. -Tac

Ok, I am looking at getting a press to help with molding my holsters. I don't have a lot of space and I don't want to spend alot of money (not looking for much am I?) I came across a manual press that is used for making Kydex sheaths and was wondering if anyone here had tried using it (or someting like it) for making leather holsters/sheaths? Also, for those of you out there using a press (Randy, Monica, Boomstick.....) Does this look like something that would provide enough pressure to work? http://www.knifekits...products_id=636 Any comments? Suggestions? I have no experience with a press at all and have done all of my molding by hand. I am looking for something to help speed things up and take some stress off of my hands/fingers. -Tac

Randy, Here is a suggestion... might cost you a couple of bucks, but it would likely work... Grind off the offending safety, go to your local gun smith and see if he has an old safety he took off of a gun that he replaced with a new one and see if he will sell it to you for a reasonable price. Plan B would be just to order the part from Brownell's (Brownells.com) Once you have the part, simply drill a hole in the blue gun at the appropriate spot, in the appropriate diameter of the shaft on the safety lever and epoxy it in the position you want it.... Just my thoughts... -Tac

I use technique "B". I fold the holster (not glue or sew closed), glue on the support band around the fold, then sew it on. Once this is done, I sew the holster seam and go from there. It works for me.... but I do not end up with bunching or wrinkling in my support bands or the holster this way. Your milage may vary. -Tac

Cuban, Regarding wet molding.... when you press the leather with your fingers (clip you nails to avoid making marks), you will start to see the general shape of the gun in the leather from your impressions. The detailed lines are created with a boning tool (like Pintail spoke of) and you will be able to see them while the leather is still wet. Regarding your question about dying.... everyone has their own methods and some will do it one way over another. I found that with some of my holsters, I got more detail from the molding process by dying after the holster had been wet molded and had dried, when compared to dying before the wet molding process. You can do it either way. If you are doing your first holster in basic black in an oil finish (like you mentioned in your list), you should not have any problem with the dye fading or running if you choose to dye then wet mold. Either way, wear good rubber gloves when handling the dye. Good luck, and don't be afraid to ask questions, there are some seriously talented people here on this board and all of them will take the time to help out and answer a questions. -Tac

Add a good razor knife and a rawhide/poly mallet to your list and you should be good. Regarding leather weight... I have seen some IWB holsters made out of 4/5 oz leather. Leather that thin is going to collaps when you draw and be a pain to re-holster IWB though. For OWB most holsters are at least 7/8 oz leather. Wet molding depends on the moisture content of the leather regarding how hard to push. If it's reletively wet, you won't have to push very hard. Good luck. -Tac

Pete, It is against Federal Law to ship a firearm direct, person to person. It has to be sent from a Federally Licensed Dealer to a Federally Licensed Dealer, or from the owner to the manufacturer. You might have better luck asking for someone to mail you a tracing of the gun, or to post a scale photo. Sorry. -Tac

Those are fantastic! I love the neck knife designs and the beautiful wet molding of the belt sheaths for the folders. Please continue to post pictures of your work, it is wonderful and inspiring to the rest of us. -Tac

A stiched sight channel is basically two narrow strips of leather that are sewn to the inside of a holster, toward the front of the slide/barrel area, that when the holster is folded over to create the pocket for the gun, create a "tunnel" for the front sight to move through when holstering or drawing the gun. They are meant to prevent the front sight from catching on the leather of the holster and either chewing up the leather or wearing the front sight of the gun. I do not have a photo of one to post, sorry. It is much easier to understand when looking at a picture than it is trying to explain it in text. A "sight channel" can also be molded into the leather, without the need for stitching seperate pieces of leather, on some holster designs. In order to mold a sight channel in on most of my holsters, I use a thin piece of dowel rod that I cut to lenght and tape to the top of the blue gun between the front and rear sights using blue painter's tape. This allows you to mold the holster and bone it tight, without closing the area between the front and rear sight, where the front sight must travel during the draw stroke or when holstering. Hope my simple explination makes some sense. -Tac

I order most of my Blue guns from here: http://www.copsplus.com/ringsblueguns.php They post pictures of each one they sell, so it's easier to make sure you are ordering the one you intend to. As far as "which ones?", I think that is a loaded question... for what purpose? For open carry? Concealed carry holster? My advice if you are looking to make holsters for sale, is poll your shooting buddies, as they will likely be your first customers, then find out what your local police carry as a primary weapon and as a back up/off duty gun, and start there. Good luck. -Tac

Neatsfoot oil will add a nice, rich light tan color to you natural leather that will get richer with a little time spent in the sun. It also repels moisture. If you don't over do it, it shouldn't bleed off on your clothing at all, once it had penetrated the leather. Oil or water based dyes are going to bleed on rough out leather to some extent. -Tac

I second the suggestion on the book "the Art of Hand Sewing Leather". It is invaluable in demonstrating the correct methods and styles, as well as giving easy to understand instructions. One of the best books I ever bought on the subject of leather craft.

Don't forget a good adjustable razor knife to cut the leather (I use the break off point/blade type you can pick up at most drug stores/hardware stores). I would also recommend some wool daubers to apply your dye with. You might want to consider a mini and maxi-punch set, in order to allow you to punch various size holes for rivets, snaps, starting belt loops, etc. A good heavy poly or rawhide mallet for use with the punches is a must have as well. As for the leather.... If you are looking for one-stop shopping, Springfield will cover all your bases, but I would recommend starting out on some cheap Tandy leather, until you get the hang of things and get comfortable enough to spend the money on the expensive leather.... I would hate to think about all the money I would have thrown away if I had started out on expensive leather..... Remember, my advice is worth exactly what you paid for it... Good luck and have fun. -Tac

PJ, both holsters look nice and there is a noticed improvement in your molding/boning skills with the successive holsters.... I have one comment on the 1911 holster. The trigger guard area of the holster is cut a bit too short. It looks like if it were to contact the trigger during holstering, that it could cause an accidental discharge (I know the 1911 has the grip safety and the manual safety, but stranger things have happened). If it were extended up about a half an inch, it would prevent this concern. The low cut at the front is nice for speed of draw, but the short, partially uncovered trigger doesn't add to this in any way. Please don't take offense to my observations/comments. A safe design in a holster is a mark of professional craftsmanship. -Tac

You have to quit washing your guns in hot water Cowboy... they'll shrink!

Wow, those are pretty... I like the brown... that color is great. -Tac

Nice Job Redd! I like the way it sits when mounted. Looks like a solid design. I have never been much of a fan of the "multiple belt slot" type holsters myself, as I find that they never really fit either position well, but thats just me. I like the tall thumbreak. Makes it hard to miss when trying to get the gun out under stress. -Tac

Medic Dave.... I have attached the holster loop to the back of the holster flap with copper burr rivets, or by sewing with nylon thread. The rivets are faster, easier and surdier. I suggest that if you are going to try and stitch it on, you use a sewing awl/spool set up, (like tandy sells), as it will be easier that trying to saddle stitch inside the loop. The copper burr rivets are cheap, easy to use and do not look bad. Most folks will never look/see that side of the holster anyway. Remember... my advise/experience is worth every penny you paid for it... Good luck. -Tac

I submit that the prize should be a free trip to the Psychiatrist.... This guy needs his head examined.....

Brinyar... VERY nice job on the holsters! I love using the airbrush for my lighter colored dyes. It makes the finished color so much more even than a dunk or a dauber. I have not tried it to apply a finish coat. As for a "spray booth".... I use a decent sized cardboard box with the top cut off, laid on it's side...... Keeps the dye in the box and not all over my garage/shop. Cheap to . Please keep posting pics of your work... they are inspiring. -Tac

Nice work! I like the rear-trigger guard snap. I had an old holster like that from Bianchi for a j-frame and it worked well. It was fast to draw, but slower to re-holster because of the snap placement, but I am not usually in a hurry to re-holster. I like the edges and burnishing as well. I second the comments on the welt being perfectly done. Good job! -Tac