kgg

Can't see the video's with a message of unspported format and MIME type found. kgg

Depends. I use JoJoba rather then neatsfoot oil. What I do is oil the flesh side first using an airbrush to get constancy over the area, let sit, maybe re-oil, then airbrush dye on, let sit and airbrush oil on again. If I'm dying the other side I will follow the same process. I found the grain side will suck up more oil or dye much faster and suck then the flesh side. kgg

For me since both were used in a production environment I would pass as I have see a couple that looked in very good shape exterior wise but the internals were on there last legs needing almost a complete rebuild. I find that Juki machines built in Japan have a better build quality then those that are made in China. If you are going to get the use out of a machine take some of your stuff to a Juki dealer. Test ride the LS-1341 and the DSC-246. That said you really can't compare a used machine against a new one, just to many possible variables. When it comes to binding I am presently using a Techsew 2750 Pro and previous to that a KOBE 1341. I stupidly sold the KOBE but the Techsew does work. However I 3D printed table tops that allow me to use standard inline attachments so I can use all flatbeds attachments on my cylinder arm machines (class 314/1341 and 441). kgg

The Juki DSC-246: i) dsc-246 hand lift is 9mm and by knee is 15mm vs Juki LS-1341 hand lift is 9mm and by knee is 16mm ii) the thread ranges on the dsc-246 uses needles sized from 90 to 160 (#14 to #23) so that means it should handle V46 to V138 in thinner items vs Juki L-1341 needle size of 100 to 180 (#16 to #24) which means it can handle V69 to V138 in heavier stuff or V207 in thin. iii) the max stitch length is 6mm for both machines iv) use a "M" style bobbin for both machines dsc-246 loads from the cylinder arm front vs ls-1341 loads from the cylinder arm top v) cylinder arm diameter is smaller on the dsc-246 then the LS-1341 vi) Since we all jam up a machine at some point in time the LS-1341 has a safety clutch while I don't think the DSC-246 has one. In a nut shell if you need / want to use with thicker thread and with heavier / thicker items or seams buy a LS-1341. If you want a binding machine buy the DSC-246. Parts / accessories for the DSC-246 are not as common as for the LS-1341. I sort think of the LS-1341 as the cylinder bed version of the DNU-1541S flatbed. How much are they asking for the machines?? Keep in mind you may want to consider a new LS-1341 clone for about $2700. I would like to know if these machines were used in a commercial environment or by a hobbyist. If they were used in a commercial environment then I would be very wary as they would more then likely have been rode hard and put away wet. kgg

Before you get some suggestions you need to tell use a couple of things. i) What size of needle are you using? ii) What size of thread are you using as a top thread and in the bobbin? iii) What system of needles are you using?? Typically for fabric type materials 135 X 17 X (needle size) and for leather 35 X 16 X (needle size). That said sometimes with certain types of vinyl you would use a leather needle. iv) How thick is the thickest part you are trying to sew?? The changes could range from incorrect top thread path, wrong size needle for threads, incorrect system of needle, dull needle or wrong needle for the type of material all the way up to replacing worn parts or re-timing the machine. If possible post a couple photo's of top thread path from the spool of thread to the eye of the needle and what you trying to sew. kgg

The number 19 needle is to small for Tex 135 thread. In thin you need a #22, medium a #23 and thick #24. Here is a good needle to thread reference chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) kgg

The Cowboy CB341 is basically a clone of the Juki LS-341. The difference between The Juki LS-341 and the Juki LS-1341 in a nutshell is a larger needlebar stroke, presser foot lift, and a double-tension system. So look for video's related to Juki LS-341 and the Juki LS-1341. kgg

Yes they are still around Harness Hardware Inc ( https://www.harnesshardware.ca/contact ) and about 3 minutes from Arron Martin. kgg

I agree with @Wizcrafts. I do have a couple of questions: i) are you using a edge guide or free handing? ii) are you using a table top attachment? A lot of machines have a natural pull to the left which can cause wandering which seems to be worse on cylinder arm as the contact surface is very small along with fighting gravity. iii) what size of thread are you using? iv) what size of needle? Here is a link to a good needle size to thread size chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) v) what system of needle are you using? (135 x 16 x needle size) is used for leather while the (135 x 17 x needle size) is used for fabric. I do see blowout on the underside which could indicate you are using a fabric needle. kgg

Yes you are correct a lot of the "1341" clones are indeed Class 341 machines regardless of what their labels say. My two cents worth and I could be wrong. That said the Juki LS-1341 does not have the vertical stroke knob as it only came with the Juki LS-1342 and the Juki LS-1342-7 (reference: https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/lether_e/cylinderbed_e/detail.php?cd=LS-1341_LS-1342_LS-1342-7_E ) That said the Jianglong machines are hybrid's being they have the vertical stroke knob of the Juki LS-1342 / LS-1342-7, the larger throat plate of the Juki LS-1341 and older Juki LS-341, the bobbin size used in the Jianglong varies from the 25.4mm ("M") used in the Juki LS-1340 series and older Juki LS-341 to your 28mm which was used in the Juki LU-1508 and older Juki LU-563 along with Durkopp Adler 867 and 868 and is actually a "U" size bobbin that has a larger capacity then the "M" which also means the bobbin case has to be that of maybe a Juki LU-563 or 1508 or a Durkopp Adler (867, 868). I suspect it is more similar to a Durkopp Adler bobbin case as it has a coiled bobbin spring rather then a flat spring and a different shape then the Juki's. kgg

What I done with my cylinder arm machines Class 1341 and Class 441 is I 3D printed table top attachments for three reasons: i) I am a cheap old geezer and there is a considerable cost difference between your standard inline binding attachments vs the 90 degree ones. ii) As I have quite a collection from 1/4" up to 3 1/2" I wanted to be able to use the standard inline binding attachments that I have on all my machines whether they are a flatbed or cylinder arm machine. That said I will coincide you can get tighter bends with a 90 degree binding attachment then with a standard inline. iii) None of the table top attachments for cylinder arm machines that I have seen have the ability to accept standard inline attachments. Here is a sample of what I mean. First photo is a Class 1341 and the second is a Class 441 with a standard inline binding attachment using a swing-away binding attachment. kgg

The last time I was there their stock was pretty slim pickings. May have just been between restocking. The place that I would recommend but forgot to include the link is https://en.cuirdizazzo.com/ in Montreal. kgg

For sewing the 12mm or so of leather as previously stated you need a Class 441 machine like the Juki TSC-441 or clone. Finding Tippmann, Cobra machines on that side of the pond will probably be a chore. Since you are in the UK: For New: I would contact Franklin Co. for Cowboy machines https://www.franklinco.co.uk/about/ For Used: I would contact places like https://leathermachinery.co.uk/ as they seem to have a selection of used machines. Another option would be to import a 441 class clone machine directly from China for probably about the same price as a good used machine would cost in the UK. kgg

Other sources are Temu and Aliexpress. Depending on the quality and quantity find the item on say Temu and then go to Alibaba. Then you could buy one off say Temu and chances are the manufacturer will have their label on the item then contact that manufacturer directly. Sewing thread: A&E (made in Canada) http://www.amefird.ca/home/ General Items like rivets and Class 441 needles https://aaronmartin.com/ General Sewing Items like needles/zippers/binding for upholstery class machines https://www.wawak.ca/ General Sewing Items like Fieblings Dye, hand sewing thread and needles, hardware https://lonsdaleleather.com . It is cheaper for me to purchase dye from them and pay the shipping then buy it anywhere in Ontario. I'm in Eastern Ontario have purchased most of my leather in Montreal but have purchase on occasion purchased from Zelikrovitz in Ottawa https://www.zelistore.com/en-ca?srsltid=AfmBOooyTM4vv_4UX6qKoAuFBz284O3uiStWwlYvo3ns8cR66VQuM-Jv To narrow your search what kind of items are you looking for???? kgg

I use single action airbrushes as I just couldn't get the hang of the double action airbrushes, like the Timbertech Airbrush Kit and the Paasche Airbrush that are siphon feed rather then gravity feed with the braided nylon hoses. I would push the pressure probably up to 40 - 45 lbs from my normal of 30lbs. You may have to: i) use a real compressor rather then an airbrush compressor just for the volume of air that maybe required. ii) detail spray gun like the Titan Tools Siphon Feed Detail Spray Gun if the consistency in doing the large pieces isn't what you need and to reduce the number of dye bottle changes. The airbrushes that I have can realistically hold about 20ml while the detail spray gun could probably hold close to 200ml. I have done 2' x 2' pieces of leather using my airbrushes with the airbrush compressor for both oiling (JOJOBA oil) and dying. I would definitely try the inexpensive Timbertech airbrush first, practice on a piece of cardboard of the same size first to get your spray and your rhyme right. This topic on my setup may help.