kgg

I think the problem is related to the thread and needle configuration you have selected. A good reference chart for needle to thread size is located here ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) The #19/120 is too large for thin acrylic, causing inconsistent penetration and hook timing issues Inconsistent top stitches like loose loops every few stitches on thin acrylic canvas probably the result of an oversized needle creating slack in the coated acrylic canvas holes, mismatched tensions, or threading issues in this industrial walking foot machine. My understanding is the Coats Tkt 036 thread is a all purpose core-spun polyester probably Coats Epic and more linty / woolly then the bonded polyester like Coats Dabond. If the item is being sewn for an outdoor item or upholstery maybe change to Coats Dabond. I would suggest: i) Change needle first: Drop to #14/90 or #16/100 sharp/microtex (not leather point). The #19/120 is made for V92 and properly leaving a small gap where top thread doesn't catch consistently on the thin acrylic canvas. ii) Top thread tension. If the the top and bobbin tension isn't balanced properly where the top thread tension is to great it will cause top-side loops. iii) Stitch length properly should be about 4mm and sewn slowly so to help reduce hook timing issues. kgg

Be careful. Juki rates their machines on what it can sew at max thickness not what you can stuff through the eye of the needle. Example: Juki LS-1341 rated for a #24 (180) needle which can accept V207 however the spec for max thread size is V138. Some clones would spec it as being able to sew V207. kgg

@keenbean Just to tag in on @Wizcrafts comments: The Juki TL Haruka uses HAx1 needles with a shank diameter of 1.63mm and uses up to max #18 needle which means the max thread size is V69 (metric 40). Typically the largest thread size for a domestic machine. The machine weight is about 25 lb. The Juki LS-1341 is a cylinder arm uses 135x17 and 135 x16 (leather) needles with a shank diameter of 2mm and uses up to max #24 needle which means the max thread size is V138 (metric 20). The head weight alone is about 82 lbs. The Juki LU-1508NH is a flatbed uses MTx190 needles with a shank diameter of 2mm and uses up to max #25 needle which means the max thread size is V207 (metric 15). The head weight alone is about 93 lbs. The Juki TU-1508NH is a cylinder arm that would be the equivalent to the flatbed Juki LU-1508NH. The head weight alone is about 97 lbs. The Class 441 machines like the Juki TSC-441 cylinder arm uses 794 needles with a shank diameter of 2.5mm and uses up to max #28 needle which means the max thread size is V415 (metric 7). Think of a needles with similar shank diameter as a 2.5" finishing nail, big hole. The head weight alone is about 123 lbs. kgg

In my area I owe one of the smallest properties, 120 acres with 250 acres of crown land attached to one side. I probably only use about 10 or so but to have a dog boarding kennel in my township you need 100 acres. The closest neighbour is about 1 mile away. You will go through a brief period of withdrawal just like any other bad habit. Ease back and treat it as want not as a necessity. You just got to cut the apron string. kgg

To me I think it probably has more to do to a individual machine problem then a manufacturing problem as a result of wear, over‑tightening/under‑tightening, or a damaged screw or clamp. If you are able to check the machine inspect the needle‑bar clamp and screw for wear and or other damage like a buckle needle bar, stripped screw / clamp and check that it is tightened properly and then if all is good re‑time the hook‑to‑needle as per the service manual, if not replace damaged parts then re-time. The PFAFF 2545 is manufactured in the P F A F F Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH factory in Taicang, near Shanghai, China. My experience: The Juki DU-1181n is a decent walking foot machine but the quality is nowhere near that of my Juki DNU-1541S. The difference is the 1181N is made in China and the 1541S is made in Japan. kgg

I have on occasion had this happen but only when I am sewing leather using multi layers say 6 oz that has not be glued together first. My thought is it was probably my fault because: I didn't hold the layers tight enough together so a layer moved slightly or the needle wasn't the correct size for the thickness leather I was trying to sew or the needle bent slightly when I tried to push the sewing thickness limit of both the machine and or the needle. I have stop using the servo motor to do reverse stitching and just handwheel the machine in reverse for those couple of stitches. Also if you do the typical forward few stitches then reverse to lock and then continue to the seam you are basically have a lot of bulk in those holes. To help reduce that bulk start and reduce possible cutting of the thread set the needle in about 3 stitches and Reverse then go forward. Another factor is the individual machine, maybe the forward and reverse are not properly setup. A simple check to that is put a piece of paper or cardboard under the presser foot and without thread in the needle do a few stitches forward and then do a reverse. If the machine is setup properly the needle will fall into same holes made when forward stitching. kgg

Interesting, I'm just finishing two 6' dog leads one is 1/2" and the other is 3/4". The 1/2" lead only had the interior of the hand and the fold over section at the clip end glued but was still sewn along the edges with V138 bonded nylon. The 3/4" x 6' was two pieces of 6.5 oz glue together and sewn along the edges along the edges with V138 bonded nylon. How I glued: i) I have a slightly raised metal edge along the edge of my work table that I push the strap up against ii) I use a small piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 10" long aluminum angle that I push up against the other edge of the strap. iii) I apply contact cement to the strap basically in 10" sections as I move the 10" AL angle along the length. w and let dry then reapply a second coat of contact cement. iv) Then I hang the strap of the door to the room to dry. v) Wipe the metal edging and 10" AL angle so there is no excess contact cement. vi) Lay the second piece up against the raised edge and apply contact cement and hang the strap over the door. vii) Clean metal edges and apply a second coat to the first strap. Rinse and repeat for the second strap. Let dry hanging over door. I do two coats as I have found the first coat gets sucked into the leather and sometimes doesn't bond properly. viii) Clean metal edges and lay a strap up against the work table edge. ix) Apply second strap to the first strap in small sections while pushing both straps up against the work table raised edge, like one inch or less lengths. x) I then use a 4" metal roller to roll the complete strap to get rid of any possible bubbles. I robbed my roller from the kitchen draw, I guess it was supposedly used for baking. xi) I then have a flat piece of metal that I put on top of the now freshly glued strap and clamp it down for about 24 hours to cure under pressure. xii) I then sew along the edges, about 4 or 5mm in, with V138 bonded nylon. I do like that idea and will try incorporating it on the next one. kgg

I am going to assume you are going to basically do the full length of the belt. I wonder if you moved up to a thicker leather that you may not need a inner reinforcement. My daily belt is two layers of chrome tan 6.5 oz glued and sewn with V138 about 4/5 mm along the edges. It shows no bowing up in the typical back section. After a little digging Nexbelt uses a " super-high-density microfiber " material so from that what I found that may help: For a super-high-density microfiber belt stiffener, products often use a material simply referred to as "high density microfibre" or "SHC". This material is a non-woven fabric made from ultra-fine polyester fibers engineered for superior support and structure in leather goods, including belts. Recommended Microfiber Materials Specific products are available on the market that are well-regarded for their performance as a stiffening core. SHC (Super High Density Microfibre): This material comes in various thicknesses (e.g., 0.45mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm) and is specifically recommended for use in belts and straps. It is valued for its strength and ability to provide a firm, stable structure. Microfiber Leather Stiffener Reinforcement Fabric: Described as "Italy leather fiber (super micro fiber)", this material is used in high-end branded bags and can also be used for belts. It has a texture and feel very close to real leather, making it an excellent choice for a refined finished product. Alternative Stiffener Materials While microfiber is a great option, especially for a leather-like feel, other non-microfiber materials offer different properties depending on the desired stiffness and application. Texon: This is a very stiff and strong board-like material, typically used for extreme structure such as the bottoms of bags, but it is suitable for applications requiring maximum rigidity. Salpa (Bonded Leather): A natural material made from milled leather scraps and natural binders, Salpa provides general reinforcement and is popular for lining belts, offering a good balance of firmness and a natural feel. Nylon or Polyester Webbing: For very heavy-duty, tactical applications, a core made from super-high-density nylon strapping can be used, with some even incorporating extremely strong fibers like Dyneema® (known as the world's strongest fiber) for maximum strength and minimal stretch. The best "super-high-density microfiber" material is typically marketed as SHC (Super High Density Microfibre) or as "microfiber leather stiffener". When choosing, consider the required thickness and the desired final feel of the belt, as these specific microfiber products offer excellent structure while maintaining a soft hand. kgg

No problem. I've had one for about 5 years. kgg

Temu: https://www.temu.com/ca/1pc-nut--thread-checker-inch-metric-26-male-female-gauges-stainless-steel-14-inch-12-metric-thread-checker-g-601099524615655.html?_oak_mp_inf=EOfbjp2m1ogBGiA5ZWNhMmYwZDdjNzU0NDAzOTViNDEwNjIyZTM1MWViZCDflrjLwTM%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2FFancyalgo%2FVirtualModelMatting%2F1bd1d6e014704d792beadf80a72c5b49.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2025093704&refer_page_sn=10032&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTY4OQ&_oak_gallery_order=2093112306%2C160354140%2C2045537314%2C271545300%2C1416541352&search_key=nut and bolt thread checker&refer_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1769953176822_anhrd4lta2&_x_sessn_id=3raljzhp3j Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009944813944.html?algo_pvid=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421&algo_exp_id=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421-6&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"7"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"fromPage"%3A"search"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!CAD!28.44!22.09!!!142.79!110.89!%402101c44f17699531248835014ee51d!12000050647125799!sea!CA!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A18b3922%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197831932&curPageLogUid=ItEaF9KDGd9H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005009944813944|_p_origin_prod%3A kgg

Here is a great article on what machine or machines you will need depending on what you want to sew. In a nutshell if you are doing: i) Belts and bags a cylinder arm machine similar to the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 or clones would be a good choice with a flatbed attachment. ii) Holsters you will need a Class 441 similar to a Juki TSC-441 or clone. What is your budget??? kgg

@catskin @friquant Here is a cheap quick nut and thread gauge that costs under $17 CAD ( $12.50 USD) delivered off Temu and Aliexpress. kgg

Interesting. Finding bolts that fit properly for sewing machines can be a chore at times since a lot has to due with whether the manufacturer is using standard bolts with standard thread pitches or they are using a particular manufacturers specific bolt thread setup like Singer and to lesser extent Juki and Juki clones. Sometimes you can sorta kinda get a Imperial bolt to fit in a metric hole but most times you have to re-thread the hole to get a proper fit. Most machines these days are made using the metric system (International System of Units - SI). The problem of trying to match bolts sizes tends to be a more of a problem in the US as most of the world uses the metric system (International System of Units - SI). Even in Canada and to some extent the US it is not that uncommon to see three systems ( the Imperial, the Metric and the America ) of measurement being used. kgg

I threw in towel about 22 years ago and the first thing I done was turned off the computer and threw out the cell phone (it "fell" out of the truck on the highway). Never touched either for 3 years. Done what we were planning for five years, move to another province, build a new house, opened a dog boarding kennel and showed our dogs. A far cry from my engineering background. Should have done it earlier. I do things that interest me, no deadlines, no boss except for the wife. The hardest part was figuring out my interests and how to combine them, like 3D printing, leather, sewing machines, metal welding, metal lathes etc. which are all interlinked. Remember working for the man is just a means to an end. One door closes and another opens. kgg

Not even close. The machine appears to have been repainted with the name tag also painted over. From the factory i) setup for binding ii) factory needle system was 134-35 LR iii) Max size of needle is a metric 100 (#16) iv) Max thread size is metric 40 (V69) Value: Unknown. If it was used in a commercial environment it may need unknown repairs so it would be wise to have someone check the machine over before purchasing. How much are they asking??? Most importantly what do you want / need to sew????? kgg