kgg

I have on occasion had this happen but only when I am sewing leather using multi layers say 6 oz that has not be glued together first. My thought is it was probably my fault because: I didn't hold the layers tight enough together so a layer moved slightly or the needle wasn't the correct size for the thickness leather I was trying to sew or the needle bent slightly when I tried to push the sewing thickness limit of both the machine and or the needle. I have stop using the servo motor to do reverse stitching and just handwheel the machine in reverse for those couple of stitches. Also if you do the typical forward few stitches then reverse to lock and then continue to the seam you are basically have a lot of bulk in those holes. To help reduce that bulk start and reduce possible cutting of the thread set the needle in about 3 stitches and Reverse then go forward. Another factor is the individual machine, maybe the forward and reverse are not properly setup. A simple check to that is put a piece of paper or cardboard under the presser foot and without thread in the needle do a few stitches forward and then do a reverse. If the machine is setup properly the needle will fall into same holes made when forward stitching. kgg

Interesting, I'm just finishing two 6' dog leads one is 1/2" and the other is 3/4". The 1/2" lead only had the interior of the hand and the fold over section at the clip end glued but was still sewn along the edges with V138 bonded nylon. The 3/4" x 6' was two pieces of 6.5 oz glue together and sewn along the edges along the edges with V138 bonded nylon. How I glued: i) I have a slightly raised metal edge along the edge of my work table that I push the strap up against ii) I use a small piece of 3/4" x 3/4" x 10" long aluminum angle that I push up against the other edge of the strap. iii) I apply contact cement to the strap basically in 10" sections as I move the 10" AL angle along the length. w and let dry then reapply a second coat of contact cement. iv) Then I hang the strap of the door to the room to dry. v) Wipe the metal edging and 10" AL angle so there is no excess contact cement. vi) Lay the second piece up against the raised edge and apply contact cement and hang the strap over the door. vii) Clean metal edges and apply a second coat to the first strap. Rinse and repeat for the second strap. Let dry hanging over door. I do two coats as I have found the first coat gets sucked into the leather and sometimes doesn't bond properly. viii) Clean metal edges and lay a strap up against the work table edge. ix) Apply second strap to the first strap in small sections while pushing both straps up against the work table raised edge, like one inch or less lengths. x) I then use a 4" metal roller to roll the complete strap to get rid of any possible bubbles. I robbed my roller from the kitchen draw, I guess it was supposedly used for baking. xi) I then have a flat piece of metal that I put on top of the now freshly glued strap and clamp it down for about 24 hours to cure under pressure. xii) I then sew along the edges, about 4 or 5mm in, with V138 bonded nylon. I do like that idea and will try incorporating it on the next one. kgg

I am going to assume you are going to basically do the full length of the belt. I wonder if you moved up to a thicker leather that you may not need a inner reinforcement. My daily belt is two layers of chrome tan 6.5 oz glued and sewn with V138 about 4/5 mm along the edges. It shows no bowing up in the typical back section. After a little digging Nexbelt uses a " super-high-density microfiber " material so from that what I found that may help: For a super-high-density microfiber belt stiffener, products often use a material simply referred to as "high density microfibre" or "SHC". This material is a non-woven fabric made from ultra-fine polyester fibers engineered for superior support and structure in leather goods, including belts. Recommended Microfiber Materials Specific products are available on the market that are well-regarded for their performance as a stiffening core. SHC (Super High Density Microfibre): This material comes in various thicknesses (e.g., 0.45mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm) and is specifically recommended for use in belts and straps. It is valued for its strength and ability to provide a firm, stable structure. Microfiber Leather Stiffener Reinforcement Fabric: Described as "Italy leather fiber (super micro fiber)", this material is used in high-end branded bags and can also be used for belts. It has a texture and feel very close to real leather, making it an excellent choice for a refined finished product. Alternative Stiffener Materials While microfiber is a great option, especially for a leather-like feel, other non-microfiber materials offer different properties depending on the desired stiffness and application. Texon: This is a very stiff and strong board-like material, typically used for extreme structure such as the bottoms of bags, but it is suitable for applications requiring maximum rigidity. Salpa (Bonded Leather): A natural material made from milled leather scraps and natural binders, Salpa provides general reinforcement and is popular for lining belts, offering a good balance of firmness and a natural feel. Nylon or Polyester Webbing: For very heavy-duty, tactical applications, a core made from super-high-density nylon strapping can be used, with some even incorporating extremely strong fibers like Dyneema® (known as the world's strongest fiber) for maximum strength and minimal stretch. The best "super-high-density microfiber" material is typically marketed as SHC (Super High Density Microfibre) or as "microfiber leather stiffener". When choosing, consider the required thickness and the desired final feel of the belt, as these specific microfiber products offer excellent structure while maintaining a soft hand. kgg

No problem. I've had one for about 5 years. kgg

Temu: https://www.temu.com/ca/1pc-nut--thread-checker-inch-metric-26-male-female-gauges-stainless-steel-14-inch-12-metric-thread-checker-g-601099524615655.html?_oak_mp_inf=EOfbjp2m1ogBGiA5ZWNhMmYwZDdjNzU0NDAzOTViNDEwNjIyZTM1MWViZCDflrjLwTM%3D&top_gallery_url=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.kwcdn.com%2Fproduct%2FFancyalgo%2FVirtualModelMatting%2F1bd1d6e014704d792beadf80a72c5b49.jpg&spec_gallery_id=2025093704&refer_page_sn=10032&refer_source=0&freesia_scene=2&_oak_freesia_scene=2&_oak_rec_ext_1=MTY4OQ&_oak_gallery_order=2093112306%2C160354140%2C2045537314%2C271545300%2C1416541352&search_key=nut and bolt thread checker&refer_page_el_sn=200049&refer_page_name=goods&refer_page_id=10032_1769953176822_anhrd4lta2&_x_sessn_id=3raljzhp3j Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009944813944.html?algo_pvid=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421&algo_exp_id=598db5f1-c508-430c-ba85-99afda6fd421-6&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"7"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"fromPage"%3A"search"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!CAD!28.44!22.09!!!142.79!110.89!%402101c44f17699531248835014ee51d!12000050647125799!sea!CA!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A18b3922%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A5000000197831932&curPageLogUid=ItEaF9KDGd9H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005009944813944|_p_origin_prod%3A kgg

Here is a great article on what machine or machines you will need depending on what you want to sew. In a nutshell if you are doing: i) Belts and bags a cylinder arm machine similar to the Juki LS-341 or Juki LS-1341 or clones would be a good choice with a flatbed attachment. ii) Holsters you will need a Class 441 similar to a Juki TSC-441 or clone. What is your budget??? kgg

@catskin @friquant Here is a cheap quick nut and thread gauge that costs under $17 CAD ( $12.50 USD) delivered off Temu and Aliexpress. kgg

Interesting. Finding bolts that fit properly for sewing machines can be a chore at times since a lot has to due with whether the manufacturer is using standard bolts with standard thread pitches or they are using a particular manufacturers specific bolt thread setup like Singer and to lesser extent Juki and Juki clones. Sometimes you can sorta kinda get a Imperial bolt to fit in a metric hole but most times you have to re-thread the hole to get a proper fit. Most machines these days are made using the metric system (International System of Units - SI). The problem of trying to match bolts sizes tends to be a more of a problem in the US as most of the world uses the metric system (International System of Units - SI). Even in Canada and to some extent the US it is not that uncommon to see three systems ( the Imperial, the Metric and the America ) of measurement being used. kgg

I threw in towel about 22 years ago and the first thing I done was turned off the computer and threw out the cell phone (it "fell" out of the truck on the highway). Never touched either for 3 years. Done what we were planning for five years, move to another province, build a new house, opened a dog boarding kennel and showed our dogs. A far cry from my engineering background. Should have done it earlier. I do things that interest me, no deadlines, no boss except for the wife. The hardest part was figuring out my interests and how to combine them, like 3D printing, leather, sewing machines, metal welding, metal lathes etc. which are all interlinked. Remember working for the man is just a means to an end. One door closes and another opens. kgg

Not even close. The machine appears to have been repainted with the name tag also painted over. From the factory i) setup for binding ii) factory needle system was 134-35 LR iii) Max size of needle is a metric 100 (#16) iv) Max thread size is metric 40 (V69) Value: Unknown. If it was used in a commercial environment it may need unknown repairs so it would be wise to have someone check the machine over before purchasing. How much are they asking??? Most importantly what do you want / need to sew????? kgg

Looks like a Consew 206RB-3 from the 1970's. Based on exterior condition, wouldn't be my choice for that price. kgg

Lets face it, It ain't a hobby it's an addiction. Just depends on which rabbit hole you go down. The worst is buying a machine that will not do what you thought it would. I think a lot of use have done that at some point. No one machine will do everything. My personal thoughts If you are: i) sewing wallets and typical belts, a Class 341/1341 like a Juki LS-341 / LS- 1341 or clone with a table top attachment would be a good choice. ii) sewing thick / tough leather with V207 and above, a Class 441 like a Juki TSC-441 or clone or one armed bandit is needed. The thing a lot of people forget is if you buy a Class 441 machine the needle is basically the size of a 2 1/2" finishing nail which is going to punch a really large hole that may not be suitable for say a wallet. The 90 percent rule: Buy a new machine that meets 90 percent of your sewing needs / wants. For the other 10 percent buy a good used machine. kgg

An alternative to the class 441 machines like the machines you listed ( CB3200 and the Cobra Classes 3 and 4 ) would be the one armed bandits. Those that are currently available are the Tippmann Boss (~$1000), the Cowboy Outlaw (~$1500) and the Weaver Master Tool Cub (~$2150). kgg

The Techsew 2700 is a Juki LS-341 clone. I would use the engineering manuals or video's for the Juki LS-341 or LS-1341. kgg

Sorry to here that. I would post on ( https://www.kijiji.ca/ ). Post an advert of each machine with photo's and a realistic price. kgg