kgg

You gotta be careful with all adverts as they typically lie like a cheap rug's. I figured as much but most of the better programs can do those conversions. I mention .step file format as that is what I use in Fusion 360 as it can be ported easily to other programs. kgg

Your machine according to, The Thread Exchange ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-systems-singer-236-B-to-391-A ), the Singer Model# 236-G All Classes use needle system 287 Equivalent to 287 H, 16X21, 16X269, 376, CANU 11:60. The size of the needle will depend on the thread that you are using. Here is a good cross reference of thread to size of needle: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

Once again, a very nicely done video. It would have been nice to see what files could be imported directly to the lasers software like .step files or if certain formats need to be converted before being imported. I think if you want to reduce / eliminate those fumes that are now leaking into the room from the machine I would suggest: i) enclosed the unit in a secondary enclosure. ii) install a couple of 120mm computer fans to exhaust the fumes to a 19 litre (5 US gal) plastic bucket with a carbon filter on the buckets exhaust. kgg

The Ikonix ks335a is a clone of the PFAFF 335 so a presser foot for a PFAFF 335 should fit. Look on Amazon for " CKPSMS Brand -#KP-19029 Double Toe&Left Toe& Right Toe Compatible with/Replacement for Pfaff Brand 335 145 245 545 1245 Sewing Machine ". kgg

@Constabulary I really enjoyed those video's. A bygone time when there was pride in workmanship right down to the making of needles. Notice the overhead drive system for the lathes etc. kgg

I would suggest taking a sample, like a leg of a pant and going to a dealer to test what machine would work best. kgg

In the video you referenced. i) They are using some sort of adhesive probably double sided basting tape as noted by them pounding the patch onto the jeans and the roll of 1/2" wide basting tape on the table. ii) The patches appear to be 2 oz chrome tan. ii) The sewing machine appears to be a flatbed drop feed Juki DDL-8700 H with a Teflon presser foot. iii) The thread appears to be V69 or V92 but the photo's appear to be V92 or V138. The Juki DDL-8700 can only take V69 max and the DDL-8700H can take V138 max. iv) The needle system of the Juki DDL 8700H uses the DBx1 needle system up to size #18 (110) needle for V69 and for thread above V69 uses a needle system 134. v) as seen in the later part of the video they have to crunch up the jeans to sew the patch in place which is what you would expect for a flatbed machine. I would Not recommend the Juki DNU-1541 even though it is a really good triple feed Japanese made machine for a few reasons. i) the hole in the feed dog is very large and has a tendency to suck thinner materials down into the needle plate. ii) absolutely hates thinner materials that is why I also have a Juki DU-1181N to cover off the thin stuff. I would recommend if you are only planning on sewing flat items like a wallet / belts get a flatbed. If you are going to sew items that are circular like pant legs get a cylinder arm with a flatbed attachments like a Juki LS-1341 or clone. Most people go with a clone machine as a Juki LS-1341 will cost north of $5000 while a clone will run about $2500. kgg

I think more people have gone from tobacco to vaping as the prices for cigarettes and other tobacco products are crazy. A pack of 20 cigarettes in Ontario is now roughly $20 CAD. After 50 years of smoking I gave up my 4 pack a day habit about 7 years ago. To keep myself sort of sane I now vape to my hearts content for about $30 a month. kgg

Hope it helps and I would be interested in knowing how it works out. kgg

I have used Angelus dye and it is an excellent product just to expensive to use on a regular basis. I mostly use Fiebing's dye with good results. The econo leathers I think tend to be a bit drier then the more expensive ones. I also don't use NFO oil for many reasons and prefer JoJoba oil as it is the closest you can get to sperm whale oil. I oil first before applying any dye and let sit for 24 hours to soak in and spread out opening the fibres of the leather. This link to a topic maybe of some help or give you some ideas on your dying process. kgg

Interesting I have never seen a Singer 45k or 46k that was a flatbed before. The machine mounted clutch system was probably setup so the machine could be driven from a ceiling or wall mounted main drive system that powered more then one machine in a factory setting. kgg

My take: i) The CB3200 is a class 441 machine. The needle will put a huge hole in your item. The needle diameter as that of 2 1/2 " finishing nail. ii) The price is not a great deal as you can get a brand new one for a couple hundred more. iii) Thirdly, it is made for heavier items like holsters. For your projects that you listed the one machine that would be close to a "jacket of all trades" would be a Class 341 / 1341 machine like a Juki LS-1341 or clone like a Cowboy CB341 or a Cobra Class 26 with a table top attachment. kgg

I enjoyed the video. kgg

According to the parts manual there are two screws (position and a set screw) holding the handwheel on. Parts manual reference ( https://southstarsupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Singer-211G165-G166-G265-G266.pdf ). I would remove both and put a couple drops of diesel in each hole and let sit for a few hours before trying to remove the handwheel. You may have to use a wheel puller and a hammer to move the handwheel back and forth as it maybe seized onto the shaft once you remove those screws. Getting those screws will also be difficult to remove. With all that work done and the new needle positioner install the question remains why do you want / need to install the needle positioner??? kgg

I use good fashion contact cement. I don't think the brand name really matters much. What I have found that bests works for me and gives me the best holding is to apply one coat on the flesh (fuzzy) side of the pieces, let dry then add a second coat until dry (about 10 -15 minutes), mate the two pieces, use a roller to evenly press the pieces together, clamp or weight down the pieces and let sit for 12-24 hours. My theory is the first coat of contact cement sinks into the fibres and binds them together. The second coat holds both surfaces permanently together. I have found sometimes with only one coat of contact cement the two pieces can be pulled apart. kgg