kgg

Here is a good manual ( http://www.consew.com/files/112347/InstructionManuals/205RB-1.pdf ). I would first get the needle to hook set correctly first, Section 21 page 10 then move on to the feed dog and presser foot. kgg

I would recommend going up to a #24 or maybe a #25. Here is a good cross reference chart for needle size to thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). What maybe happening i) needle eye to small for proper fitting of thread ii) depending on the thickness and toughness of the leather the hole being punched in the leather isn't large enough to allow for the top and bottom V207 thread and it is being caught / jammed into a too small a space. kgg

Here is some info. A lot is going to depend on the bore of the needle bar. What machine are they for? kgg

What size of thread with what size needle and how thick of leather? kgg

A very nice machine. The clones of the Juki differ from the original but this fairly easy, simple change and you really don't need extra parts except for the chain and foot pedal. What part of Canada are you in?? Procedure: 1. Remove knee pad and connector from front of the knee shaft extending out from the machine. 2. Unlock and tilt the machine back 3. Loosen the connector for the knee lift horizontal shaft inside 4. Slide knee lift horizontal shaft out the back of the machine and re-tighten connector. 5. Install knee lift rod, install chain from the end of the lifting connector down to the pedal. 6. Job done Here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwvWsuxPAD0 at 4:06 is what the horizontal shaft should look like at 16:29 to 16:58 installation of foot pedal kgg

That's about $920 USD and new at 22000 Rand it would be about $1200. The ORYX OR341 is another clone of what appears to be a Juki LS-341. kgg

There is a video of the Alder 30-70 video. Note the audio is in German. kgg

I use inline/straight binders single fold and double fold from 1/4" to 3 1/2" on all my machines whether they are flatbed or cylinder arm. The main advantage of a 90 degree binder is that it should be able to do tighter corners then a inline/ straight. The disadvantages of the 90 degree binders are i) they cost a lot more then your inline/ straight. ii) you can't on most adjust the tension on the tape at binder itself. The main problem I think you are having is poor back tension on your tape and the path the binding tape travels through the binder is to wide so you are getting tape slop. Are you using your binding tape with a vertical or horizontal platter or just letting it drape to the floor?? Any photo's of your binding setup???

Did you get in contact with Techsew and how did it work out? kgg

My experience is that you can not burnish chrome tan. I use a soldering iron after lubing the edge. kgg

Very nicely done and a great use for those old circular saw blades. What did you use to cut out the shape of the old saw blade? kgg

A couple of questions: i) What size of thread are you using? ii) What size of needle are you using? iii) how thick of material are you trying to sew? iv) Does it happen on straight runs or when doing curves? kgg

At the max of 3 layers of 8oz the leather would be approximately 3/8" thick. i) That means if you purchase a upholstery class machine and depending on the toughness of the leather you would be at the max sewing capacity. Another factor that you did not mention is the max size of thread you want to use. If you hand sewing chances are you are using a thread larger then V138 probably closer to V415 or higher. ii) Typically upholstery class machines at max sewing capacity will handle up to V138 thread. The Juki DNU-1541 S is compound feed ( needle/ presser foot / feed dog moving the material ) ans is an upholstery class flatbed machine. Costing new about $1800 USD plus shipping. The Cowboy 3200 is a compound feed ( needle/ presser foot / feed dog moving the material) 10.5" cylinder arm Class 441 machine which is rated for up to V346 thread and up to a 1/2" thickness. Costing new about $2200 USD plus shipping. The Cobra Class 4 is a compound feed ( needle/ presser foot / feed dog moving the material) 16.5" cylinder arm machine Class 441 machine which is rated for up to V415 thread and up to a 7/8" thickness. Costing new about $2900 to $3900 USD depending on the accessory package and shipping. Another alternative would be a Class 441 that can handle V415 thread but is a manually operated one arm bandit like the Tippman Boss (~$1000 to $1200 USD), Cowboy Outlaw (~$1400 USD) or the Master Tool Cub (~$2000 USD) plus shipping. Another thing to take into account is the needle system as the class 441 machines use 794 needles while the uphosterly class machines typically use 135 x 16 needles. A rough comparison between the two needle system would be the 135 x 16 would be a 1 1/2" finishing nail versus a 794 would be similar to a 3 1/2" finishing nail meaning there is going quite a difference in the hole size in the leather. kgg

Funny thing I NEVER use sewing machine oil in any of my machines. I use a formula of synthetic motor and synthetic transmission oil. If I am flushing a old machine out I use a formula with more transmission oil to get into the bearings and remove any dirt/ etc. I find the synthetic oils lubricate surfaces much better, reduces friction and quiets a machine down particularly an old machines. A old sewing machine mechanic who worked at a factory where machines were used 24 / 7 used straight transmission oil to keep the machines cooler so they could keep up with the sewers. To answer your question an oil at your spec is similar to 5W oil at 20 C based on the chart ( https://imgur.com/DDA5MJW ) kgg

@Dwight , @Hildebrand I'm sure once things settle down @Johanna will let us know the site is up and running properly. Please keep in mind rebuilding a site after a hack can be very time consuming and we are lucky it is functioning at all. kgg

For the reasons @Wizcrafts gave the simple answer is NO. I would suggest a walking foot machine like the Juki DU 1181N. A new complete setup, machine, servo motor and table is about $1400 USD used???? I use my Juki DU-1181N to cover off the thinner stuff the Juki DNU-1541S doesn't like.

I think I would use: i) an off the shelf hollow linear shaft as they come in various outside and inside diameters. I guess a shaft with a 3/4" ( 20mm) OD and a 3/8" (10mm) ID would work. If the shaft isn't large enough add some form of a grip. These shafts are really available off places like Aliexpress and are mostly used for linear movement. An example would be ( https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005008313729816.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.7f1edY5sdY5swH&algo_pvid=da5d617e-a98c-46cd-b478-14026027a4f7&algo_exp_id=da5d617e-a98c-46cd-b478-14026027a4f7-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!CAD!26.96!13.48!!!133.20!66.60!%402101e9a217380630172501546ef44e!12000044581316320!sea!CA!3463193163!X&curPageLogUid=rV9wvFNWFsW5&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A ) ii) 3D print a shaft with comfortable outside diameter for my hand with the correct inside diameter to accommodate the stamp. Cost would be pennies to make. Me being me I would do the 3D printed method. kgg

@Johanna that you for all the hard work that you have put into getting the site up and running. Damn Hackers there's a special place for them. kgg

Like @TomEI use HDPE to cover my work table and have some smaller cut of pieces for smaller projects. Doesn't seem to dull the knife blades as quickly, the main downside is it is very smooth and can have a tendency to slide around if not weighted down, screwed or clamped in place. However the main reason I use HDPE is to protect my butcher block table tops as blades are cheap to replace, the 1 1/2" thick butcher block isn't. kgg

That is good to know. kgg

Since you are using 3 layers of 8 oz which will be about 3/8" thick and using V207 thread you would be at or close to the max of all Class 341 machines like a Juki LS-1341 machine, brand name or clone. Since you are using a Class 441 machine, the Tippman Boss, you would have to move to a Juki TSC-441 or a clone machine. The Juki TSC-441 will set you back somewhere around $8000 USD which for most hobbyists is out of their price range versus a clone costs about $3000 USD. kgg

Which subclass 8B, 8BL, 8BV, 8BLV, 8BLH or 8BHC??? From your description a new BSC-8BL costs about $4500 USD plus shipping etc. Buddy Price???? Assuming the seller has a BSC-8BL his asking price of $3500 is about 77 percent of a new one. Depending on when he bought the machine he maybe trying to recoup closer to 100 percent of what he paid for the machine. My thought is if you really like the Seiko, which are good machines made in Japan, and it does what you want I would just go buy a new one rather then his "Buddy Price". If I'm not mistaken the Consew 277 is clone of the Seiko BSC but a lot cheaper price wise. If you think the Juki LS-1341 feels cheap you should try some of the clone machines. kgg

The Juki LU-1508NH is rated for V69 to V207 with a max knee lift of 16mm (5/8") for the presser foot . The cost of a Juki LU-1508NH is about $2600 USD ($3800 CAD) Your size of thread for those size of needles is for thread size range of V46 and V69. With those thinner size needles in thick material you run the risk of the needle buckle and breakage particularly on curves / turns. Here is a good cross reference chart for needle size vs thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) A lot will depend on how much the foam and fabric will compress down. I think a close comparison on the low end would be a Juki in the LS -1340 series of machine, a Juki LS -1341 or LS-1342 as they would cover off your needle size and maybe your thickness requirement. The cost of a Juki LS-1341 will be Plus $5000 USD whereas you can get a clone for $2000 USD and up depending on the clone you select. Basically it comes down to if you want a true Juki, how thick your pocket book is and the after sales service. Keep in mind a lot of the 1341 clones are clones of the older Juki LS-"341 " not the LS-1341 or are some hybrid version. Either way I would strongly suggest going to a dealer and testing various machines with the thread size you normally use in the max thickness of fabric / foam combination before purchasing a machine. Once you bought it, it is yours for better or worst. Buy Once Cry Once, kgg

The larger the number the thicker and stronger the thread. Thread size V69 is the cross over thread size being typically the largest thread a domestic sewing machine can handle and typically the smallest industrial sewing will handle. here is a good chart for thread size, the correct size needle and breaking strength ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). The typical needle system for upholstery class machines which the machines you listed fall into typically take a system 135 x 16 x (needle size) for leather and 135 x 17 x (needle size) for fabric. Don't cheap out buy good needles and good thread. kgg

In my option the best flatbed for your needs would be a compound walking foot and in this class of machine a new Brand name would be the Juki DNU-1541"S." The cost in Ontario runs around the $2500 CAD. An example would be from All About Sewing ( https://www.allaboutsewingmachines.ca/products/juki-dnu-1541-s-industrial-walking-foot-industrial-sewing-machine ). Also Japan Sewing Machine & Supply Co ( (905) 764-0100 ) who sell Juki and have their own line of clones called Kobe which would be a lot less expensive then a true Juki. I have bought a few machines from them and would suggest giving them a call they are very good to deal with. As a note: i) would be more expensive to buy a Consew 206RB-5 then it would be to purchase a Japanese made true Juki DNU-1541"S". ii) Since there is no Sailrite dealer in Canada you would have to contend with the rate of exchange / duty / brokerage / shipping costs to get a Sailrite Fabricator iii) You can get the Cobra machines through Tandy Canada iv) Cowboy machine costs would be similar to the Sailrite machines as far as importing costs. kgg