kgg

Personally I would not purchase a machine that has been used in an industrial setting as you are really dependent upon not only the machine having good bones but the competence of the person / company refurnishing it. The factory is getting rid of it for a reason. Look for a hobbyist owned machine or if you can afford it buy a new Juki LS-1341 or 1342 or buy a new clone. If you decide to go with a clone try and get one that is more like the older LS-341 rather then a hybrid clone and go through the specs carefully. kgg

To me I would say your concerns are justified. Looks to have been stored in a damp environment and poorly maintained. kgg

The 7mm is touch over 1/4" and would be close or above the capabilities of the walking foot machine you listed. Also you are going to be limited to a thread size maximum of V92. kgg

Be aware of what some of the short comings of the Sailrite you are planning on getting: i) The Sailrite is made in China not Japan like like, I'm assuming, your older Brother. ii) The Sailrite is a walking foot not a unison feed like the brother you have. iii) Uses a domestic Singer Class 15 Bobbin. iv) Max thread size you can use is V92. vi) No safety clutch. vii) Requires special presser feet. viii) Stretch length varies as the thickness of material increases. ix) The Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ is a "portable" walking foot sewing machine but with the rigid carrying case the term "portable" is a relative term. Sort of like the old "portable" microwaves that took two people to move across the kitchen. With the machine sat in it's rigid carrying case it turns into a very clumsy package weighting probably close on about 50lbs. Coupled that with the size of a very well constructed rigid carrying case (about 21" long x 14" high x 10" wide with only one top mounted carrying handle) and you are going to get a good workout. My experience of owning the Sailrite® Ultrafeed® LSZ, with the rigid carrying case which had their new "servo" motor, the shine of being able to move it more then a few feet very quickly dulled. I would suggest that you makeup a cardboard box about the same size and put say 40lbs in it. Then see if you can lift it with one arm or hold it on the bottom and then walk up a flight of stairs or across a parking lot. Maybe it may fit your needs but I would suggest trying one first because once you buy it's yours for better or worst. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

My kind of workplace, Not. China isn't much better. This is why most decent manufacturers can't compete. That said it is amazing what can be done with simple / simpler tools. kgg

Keep in mind that NO one machine will do everything that is why some of us have more then one or six machines. You need to figure out: i) your max budget dollars ii) what is the thickest thread you want to sew with, V69 (domestic), V92, V138, V207, V277, V346, V415? iii) what is the thickest you want to sew including the seams? iv) what are the articles you are planning on making the most? v) You need to read this article to help figure what would work for what you want to sew. kgg

With any sort of odd ball machines finding parts can be a chore and then add only one supplier of parts I would personally steer clear of the machine. That said if the price was dirt cheap, not $800, then maybe. kgg

From the Thread Exchange website ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-systems-singer-148-to-231-SV-12#Models_178_to_211-GX ): Singer Model# 196-K 301 uses needle system 287 Equivalent to 287 H, 16X21, 16X269, 376, CANU 11:60 That will bring you to their selection of needles for that machine choose the correct needle size based on the thread size you are using. kgg

Save your money personally I think you will be disappointed with the abilities of the that machine it is not an industrial sewing machine. Those machines and their clones were meant as machines to repair sails when at sea. I have owned a few of the Sailrite machines and their clones. They are really meant for limited use in thin stuff. It will: i) leave marks in leather as the standard presser foot and feed dog are very aggressive. ii) uses a domestic Singer Class 15 small bobbin iii) thread size is limited to V92 thread iv) stitch length will vary as the thickness of the material increases and the list goes on. kgg

Are you using a speed reducer between the servo motor and the needle positioner? I would first replace the belt. kgg

I approached the problem with inline binders by installing 3mm brass inserts for mounting in a 3D printed table top. I think you could do something similar with the table top you have. ( drill / tap or drill and press in a nut) kgg

If I'm not mistaken the Techsew 2600 is a clone of the Juki DSC-246 a manual for the Juki can be downloaded here: https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_j/download_j/manual_j/dsc240/index.html kgg

Just go to your local hardware store and get a V belt. The link belts don't provide the same amount of belt surface contact area as a V belt. Looking at your photo and the video of the machine on the Jiang Long site this machines appears to be a needle feed machine where the outer presser foot just goes up and down like a ordinary drop feed while the needle and the inner presser foot moves back and forth. What are the model numbers of the comparable machine?? Without knowing more about the spec of your machine or what it is a clone of you maybe be at the machines limit, probably around 8 oz. kgg

Start with basics first. i) Are you using needles that came with the machine. If so throw them in the bucket as they are more then likely to be of poor quality. ii) I am going to assume the machine takes system 135 needles. Are you using a 135 x 16 which is needed for leather? iii) What size of needle are you using? You may have to move up to a #22 needle for V92 in thick / tough leather. Reference chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) iv) have you checked to make sure the feed dog is set correctly. The presser foot tension just needs enough downward pressure to move stuff along. To much doward pressure and it's like creating a jam point. The drive belt needs some slack otherwise it puts to much strain on the bearings in the machine and in the servo motor. I would remove the belt and turn it over by hand and see if can feel anything funny. Is this a needle feed machine? kgg

I would first determine what the running length of the dies you want to use are and from that you can determine the required tonnage that will be needed. kgg

Someone definitely Frankensteined that machine. The machines is a drop feed tailor machine made for fabric. This machine is not meant to sew leather. The .6mm thread that you normally use is equal to approximately V277 which will need a #25 ( 200 ) size needle which this machine will not take if you can find the correct 16x 257 needle system. If you want try and use the 134 or a 135 x 16 needle system the needle bar height will probably have to be adjusted and the needle to hook timing adjusted. You really need to install a new thread tension assembly and the other missing guide to get the thread tension and path correct so the machine to will sew properly. Here is a link to to a good needle size to thread size chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). Here is a copy of the parts manual and a correct tension assembly. kgg Singer 31K15, K17, K20, K22, K32, K45, K48.pdf

The leather and needle are lifting the presser foot like @Northmount has noted but also catching the thread as indicated by the loop being created at the needle. The 135x16 is the correct needle system for leather but what size of needle are you using? Here is a good chart for needle size verses thread size but in thick or tough material you should move up a needle size. If you are using a #20 needle go up to a #22 needle. The machines max needle size is a #22 and the max thread size is V92. I have owned a couple of Sailrite LSZ and clones and real life will show you with tough / dry / dyed leather you are at roughly the max sewing thickness that machine can handle. Also what I did find with those machines: i) is they can be really particular with the needle being installed as in that it almost has to be perfectly installed and any deviation especially in leather you can run into problems. ii) stitch length will vary as the sewing thickness increases. kgg

Thank you. Good price. kgg

Looks good. I would recommend flushing it with a lot oil to get rid debris from manufacturing and to make sure every surface that touches another is thoroughly lubed. What was the approximate cost with shipping / duty. kgg

A wheel foot will not work with a walking foot machine. What machine are you using? kgg

Maybe adding a speed reducer would help???? kgg

Here is a sketch of a simple platter. i) Thread 3/8" rod about 12 " long. ii) 3/8" Nuts. Need 3 of them. iii) Platter: Can be plastic or metal as long as it is big enough and sturdy enough to hold your bias tape. iv) 3/8" Bearing: Need one v) The mounted to the table I will leave up to you. kgg

When you make one have the flat plate spin on a bearing that way you will not be dragging the whole weight of the coil of binding tape and it will be easier to get consistent back tension. kgg

The Juki LS-1341 is a good machine made in Japan. The clones are made in China and Taiwan. The clones depreciate at more then the real deal Juki's and are more difficult to resell. For me the best time to sell one of my clones is around the 3 years old mark while the Juki's stay. Typically the clone LS-1341 are clones of the older Juki LS-341 and the clone LS-1341 with the knob on top are hybrid LS-341 while others also have casing changes and or internal part changes. It can be a bit of a task trying to decipher what some of the clones are clones of as they may have different model numbering labels. Example: Cowboy CB341, Cobra class 26 and Techsew 2750 similar to the Juki LS-341. The Juki LS-1342 has the knob on top and comes with a narrower nose rather the standard larger nose diameter of the Juki LS-1341. My take on: i) The main reason you see Juki's at the 50 percent depreciation mark is that they typically have come out of an industrial usage setting with some beaten to death and need an overhaul. If you can find a Juki LS-1341 or LS-1342 from a hobbyist expect to pay 70 to 80 percent the price of a new one. In Ontario, Canada you can get an ex-industrial used Juki LS-1341 for about $1000 USD ($1500 CAD). ii) Also the market for cylinder arm machines is a much smaller market then the flatbed market. iii) Price of used machines in general will also depend on the available supply, demand and economy in local / state / province. iv) Buyers have a magic number in their head for purchasing a new or used machine. I think for a used machine the upper number is $2000 then it is just as well to buy a new clone from a reputable dealer for the extra dollars. It is easy enough to know the difference just by looking at it or photo's. kgg

i) The binder you are using is not positioned properly from front to back and twisted. To me it seems as though it was made to be used with a particular type of binding tape with a specific presser foot setup. ii) The binder has no front to back adjustment. iii) The make shift arrangement of how you are mounting the coil of bias tape is never going to give you consistent and acceptable results. Suggestions: i) Purchase a proper bias tape platter. I prefer a platter that holds the bias tape horizontally over one that hold the bias tape a vertically. ii) Since you are close to the Sailrite store purchase a Sailrite inline binder for 1" binding tape if that is the size you want ( https://www.sailrite.com/Binder-1-Swing-Bracket ) with a swing away attachment. I have a couple of the Sailrite binders that came with a Sailrite machine that I picked up awhile ago and they are decent quality but expensive at $72 USD. As a price comparison you can get a pretty good CKPSMS branded one off Amazon.com for $20 with a swing away attachment ( https://www.amazon.com/CKPSMS-Adjustable-Single-A4B-Machines/dp/B0BH8MG3SR?crid=1AQ7CPZYU45IC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Vk4OlxqvhPRNsqsK4L5btm_oB3ToI8b9AUN-BxlpKNlq-4hV3Nd9ALOdzkLEDyln43jzKhLQ8ptVTstf5lcUSkSDGJkKjWxkZ1dTnVWiZnJr_CL_STfYpLxqowFJTLTtsoLsEU7Z4dj1HHfBFB7_BkINB_wnW9KhwsLChDL4ztsiJ0gJ0DOSanI4teK5lKTby1K1j4p7pqcWcje5uMH6tezCKaPNUYSRAzGcXvdyJmqci88YI0BzhJg5ZccBWEO1CHeBx4skmcN8RqYHbrM8aROf51xjDe5iO33-i_OiwSR2ljvhBvF7aou_4pcrLA2bpxNM0QqPbIRuaogpBAq7uz2mZ32xKTXbk2wGBuUpnf7phIKBiXYs_XPiYeMrZWOXYUREyAaMCYoa7pFkZ3yDaZyAz4lXRIQi2esyfFAH9YBydEv1HVwDXc5pOuqpe1Xd.1ZGLcvgIyXGofpY6xddiETTz6CkoSkul-8DmIUohh9U&dib_tag=se&keywords=CKPSMS+Brand+-+1SET+Swing+Away+single+Fold+Binder+Attachment&qid=1739146362&sprefix=ckpsms+brand+-+1set+swing+away+single+fold+binder+attachment+%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-4 ) If I am not mistaken Sailrite binders only come in single fold so you would have to purchase binding tape already folded over or use raw edge binding tape in the size for the binder you buy. How tight are you planning on doing? With a inline binder I can usually get about a 2 1/2" diameter turn and if I am careful about 2" diameter. all lot depends on the thickness of the binding tape and material. kgg