kgg

Thank you, I will give them a call tomorrow. kgg

Thank you. Yes your link does show them. I thought $0.60 CAD per set delivered was a bit steep their price when converted from USD is $0.94 plus shipping. I am still looking for a manufacturer rather then a distributor / retailer. kgg

I needed some #9 solid copper rivets with a overall length of 1 1/2 " for a project. I even went to a couple of Chinese manufacturers with no luck unless I wanted to order 30,000. I did find a supplier in Ontario but they are a little pricey. So my question is who makes these in North American? kgg

No. That is a clone of the Seiko 8B which tops out a 140 ( #22 ) so V138 in thinner stuff. I think more of a binding machine similar to the 335. Here is my clone of the Juki LS-341 a Techsew 2750 which is the same as the Cowboy CB341. kgg

Looking at the specs of a new PFAFF 335 at the official PFAFF site ( https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/cylinder-arm/pfaff335 ) the recommended needle system 134-35 with a metric size needles 80 to 100. The system 134-35 needles are not as common as the system 135-16 needles. According to the official PFAFF website the machine is made to accept 80 to 100 (metric) or #12 to #16 needles which in turn allows for thread from V33 to V69 max. However I did see on Sunny Sewing Machines ( https://sunny-sewing-machines.myshopify.com/products/pfaff-335-cylinder-arm-walking-foot-sewing-machine-w-binding ) and they are saying it can handle up to V207 so I would check with the main distributor for PFFAF to confirm it's capabilities. I think their thread capabilities is an error. Ah, you are no crazier then most of us. I do think you are looking at the wrong machine and I would suggest looking into a Juki LS-341 or Juki LS1341 or clone if you need something to sew a touch over 3/8" thick once you go over that thickness you really need a Class 441 machine like a Juki TSC-441 or clone. Keep in mind a clone is going to a LOT less expensive. As a note 9 oz leather is 9/64" inch thick so it depends then on how many layers to want / need to sew through and the toughness of the leather. kgg

Nicely done. I guess Molly is a little spoiled. kgg

I did a topic with some photo's and an explanation on the various methods of threading the top thread for the original Juki TSC-441, the Cowboy, the Cobra and the Techsew. I thread my TSC-441 clone as if was a true Juki TSC-441. kgg

Hopefully it is just the top pin guide that got damaged while he was transporting the machine home. A top pin guide from a Cowboy 4500. Or he could thread the Techsew 5100 the OP gets a new one like you would thread a Cobra Class 4 machine as they don't use a top pin guide. This is a good example why any machine needs to tied / strapped securely during transport. I have added a link the Techsew 5100 Threading Guide and also for the Cobra Class 4. kgg Threading a Cobra Class 4

Just my two cents worth: i) The main disadvantages a) To much computer controls b) When the motor fails it probably going to be more expensive to replace the motor and controls as it ages. As far as I know you wouldn't be able to bolt up a generic motor and be limited to a setup for that model of machine from that manufacturer / supplier. c) Higher possibility of damage to internals like shafts etc. should something get jammed up. I have not seen any machines with a built in safety clutch and a lot are made mostly for the garment industry. A possible exception would be the Consew 2206RB-14-7-DD. From what I have see it has similar spec as the Consew 206RB-5 however no safety clutch and quite the price difference Consew 206RB-5 costs about $1500 USD verses about $2200 USD for the Consew 2206RB-14-7-DD. d) Inability to add a speed reducer. ii) The main advantage I think would be in a production environment where machines are replaced on probably a set replacement cycle like every 3 to 5 years. As I like a basic setup: sewing machine, servo motor (I perfer a Brush rather then a Brushless servo motor), belt/belts connecting the servo motor to sewing and maybe a speed reducer. Makes determining the problem, repairing and back running much simpler which generally means less expensive. kgg

Here is a couple of video's to help you get started: kgg

This appears to be the same PFAFF 1245 machine that I had for a very short period of time. The threading appears to be correct up to the last thread guide just before the needle. In your second video I noticed the thread guide just before the needle appears to be different then the one I had on my machine and seems to be further to the right side of the shaft rather then being more too the center. The manual I have in figure 1-01, figure 7-04 and figure 9-01 shows the guide being centered. According to the manual " Use only system 134-35 needles " and it could take size 110 to 140 ( #18 to 22 ) needles which means it could handle V69 to V92 in thicker stuff and V69 to V138 in thinner stuff. My machine would not work with V138 except in thinner fabric. The thread fraying at the needle maybe being cause by a burr at the needle plate/feed/ etc. or the hole in the needle plate andfeed dog may not be large enough for the needle system you are using. I have included the manual I used and a photo of my machine, nameplate and needle area. Note: In the machine photo I miss threaded the small round tension guide just before the main tensioner. kgg pfaff_1245_1246-manual-EN.PDF

I did like the video ( https://variani.com/videos/belt-punch-and-cutter-machine.mp4 ) you did post under another topic about the press. The quality of the setup seems to be quite nice. I think this style of guide could be adapted for use with a standard hand press or modified for the less expensive drill press guides. I did like the self centering feature but the distance between the holes could be better refined as some might like the holes closer together while others farther apart depending on the use of the belt / strap. A belt to hold up your pants verses a gun belt. I can see it being an asset but cost would be a major factor and it would be in competition with such items like pre made clicker press dies with the hole punches build in. I do have to agree that when I did read your post I did think of it as an advertisement as some others had I would suggest that you really need to write your post slightly different as not to give the impression of it being an advertisement. kgg

Since you have gotten good service out of the Cowboy I would just go with another Cowboy. kgg

My questions: Is the long arm necessary? Could you get away with a machine like a Juki DNU-1508 or clone. Would a cylinder bed machine like a Juki LS-341 / 1341 or Juki TSC-441 or clones of those machine work??How thick is the thickest part that you have to sew going to be? A couple of photo's of the style of bags you want to make may help to determine if this is the right style of machine for your application. kgg

My take on this: Tandy Poly Cutting Board: ( https://tandyleather.ca/products/poly-cutting-boards?_pos=1&_psq=cutting+boards&_ss=e&_v=1.0 ) It depends on two basic things i) the material whether it is LDPE ( Low Density Polyethylene) or HDPE ( High Density Polyethylene ) as HDPE is about 3 times more dense then LDPE for the same thickness and obviously more heavy. The more dense the stronger it is and it's ability to withstand sudden shock. Most cutting boards you get at a regular store are really made for normal food prep cutting and are probably made of LDPE. They really don't like to be used as chopping blocks and often split when you use a cleaver on them. If you are just going to be using it as cutting surface and willing to replace it when the cut marks pose problems then they would probably do quite nicely as they can be had pretty cheap at your dollar store. If you want to cut, punch holes, use it in a clicker press or otherwise abuse it you really need to go to a HDPE board. In Canada you can get 12" x 12" x 3/8" Natural HDPE piece ( https://plasticworld.ca/product/natural-hdpe/ ) for about $13 CAD ($9.50 USD) whereas Tandy would charge about $26 CAD ( $19 USD ). Since Tandy does not give specs on the material other then "Poly" I would suspect it is probably LDPE. I had to buy some 4' x 8' x 1/8" HDPE sheets for our boarding kennel more commonly know as puck board. This what is used in lining the hockey rink walls except those sheets are much thicker. So I went to a manufacturer and while I was there we had a discussion about what would be a good material for a clicker press. The bottom line answer was HDPE and the thickness would depend on the tonnage. kgg

To me it sounds like a motor bearing squeal but it is a hard to tell from the video, to short a time where I could here hear the noise. kgg

Nicely done. Do you have video of it working? kgg

Do you mean London, Ontario in Canada or London in Great Britain? Without seeing the machine working and it being properly professionally packaged up for transport as well as the scam sales going on I would personally suggest the new machine for the sake of the difference in price. Parts / repair / accessories for a Juki and Juki clones are less expensive and easier to get then for an Alder. As far as the Atlas AT341 I would suggest using V92 thread as minimum and it should sew nicely what you want. kgg

A couple of questions: 1) How thick of leather are you normally going to sew? 2) How thick of leather do you want to be able to sew? 3) What size of thread are you planning on using?? 4) What are you planning on making??? Without knowing those things this maybe the perfect machine for your stuff or totally incorrect machine for your needs. The Atlas At 341 is a clone of the Juki LS-341 just like most of the other 341 clones has similar spec's as the Juki LS-341. These days most machines regardless of the name will provide good service. You got to change how you write your post and comments as it can be difficult to read. kgg

I had one of these for a very short period of time a couple years back but it used the 134-35 needle system. It would also slip the timing and what I found when I really cleaned everything up was those two gears as in your photo were worn and the larger gear needed to be moved forward to get better contact with the other gear. I just slacked the shaft off at the safety clutch and moved it forwarded. kgg

Thank you for the compliment. kgg

The needle size for V138 thread needs a #22 for thin items, #23 medium thickness and #24 for thick items (reference: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) You have threaded the machine incorrectly here are a couple of pictures I grabbed off an Alexander Dyer video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ua5_zIYxNpE ) of how it should be threaded. As a note this maybe not be the right machine for knife sheaths, holster and gunbelts in particular holsters. kgg

The Consew 29BL appears to be similar to the Techsew 2900L. These two links may help: i) Checking the Timing: ii) Adjusting the Timing: Hope these help. kgg

Your right it is not a wear and tear thing as I keep my machines in pristine condition and when I sell them they look like they just came out of the box. What I have found is at that time frame the price of a new clone, for that model, has increased allowing me to usually get what I paid or close or more and move on to something else. kgg

Sorry, I do not share my STL files. kgg