kgg

Yes the hook and bobbin areas are the same whether it is a LS-1341 or 1342. Clones maybe different. The main differences are: i) LS-1341 has a longer feed dog area thus larger gauge ii) LS-1342 has a smaller feed dog area which is probably better for smaller items like bags iii) LS-1342 has what you call the "hump jumper". Only you can say if the hump jumper will be worth the extra cost for your items. I think if you are going to be sewing at close to 9.5 or slightly over thick material the LS series of machine may not be the best option. How thick including the thickness of the seam are you planning on sewing? kgg

The nameplate should say where it is made or email Juki to confirm that it is made in Japan to be 100 percent sure. The "hump jumper" as you call it is only available on the Juki LS-1342. I would ask if the timing belt has been changed or a photo of the timing belt condition. Is the seller close to you so you could see it running? kgg

Santa is coming soon. I would like to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. kgg

If I'm not mistaken the Ferdco 440 R is a GA5-1 or GA5-1R if it has reverse should be the same for threading. Here is a youtube video on threading. kgg

LS-2342 uses the 134 x 35 system of needles where as the LS-1341 uses 135 x 16 / 17 system needles. LS-2342H and the ls-2342H-7-0B rated to handle V266 which is the same as metric Tkt 10, 3 cord not the Tkt 10, 4 cord. What are you planning on using the machine for that would require going above the capacity of the Juki LS-1341??? kgg

My understanding is: i) The Maine Thread Company located in Maine makes their own thread in the USA. ii) Mandala Crafts located in Texas appears to be a reseller of thread made by some other company. They don't list the thread as being made anywhere in particular. iii) Thread typically with "no branding" is more then likely from China. My experience with Chinese made thread has never been good. You maybe lucky and get good quality thread or not. iv) Darker threads like Black are stiffer the lighter colors as it has to do with the thread dying process. v) There generally is slight differences between batches of thread from the same manufacturer or if the manufacturer has more then one factory. With brand name threads this should be minimal but with the Chinese stuff all bets are off as to quality or consistency let alone from different manufacturers. vi) From the information I have seen Nylon 66 is supposed to be slightly stronger and better with dealing with some chemicals however it absorbs more moisture and is weaker in dry environments. I would suggest you go with threads made in North America like Maine Thread Company (made in USA) there website is https://mainethread.com/ or American & Efird (made in Canada ( http://www.amefird.ca/home/ ) and USA ( https://www.amefird.com/ )). You will be guaranteed to get consistency and quality regardless of thread size or spool size when you buy brand name thread. Yes they are going to be more expensive then the Chinese no name threads which in my experience is just frustration. kgg

Personally I think the #22 needle is to small and really is meant for V92 in thick materials. Who is the manufacturer of the needle? A lot of times thread fraying is cause by a burr in the top thread path, too small a needle for the thread size, needle inserted incorrectly, timing off. Did you do a drop test for the bobbin tension? Hold the bobbin case with the bobbin threaded in the palm one hand and the thread coming out tensioner. Make sure the bobbin is installed correctly and unwinds in the correct direction in the bobbin case for your machine when you pull on the end of the thread. Hold the end of the thread and lift it straight up. If the bobbin thread unwinds and the case is still in your hand tighten the tension screw. If the bobbin case lifts easily off your hand loosen the tension screw. You should be able to lift the bobbin case off your hand and with a little jerk the bobbin thread should unwind slightly and fall back into the palm of your hand. The thread tension screw probably should be adjusted in or out by about a 1/16 of a turn. I would get the bobbin tension set correctly first then i) remove the top thread from the machine right back to the spool ii) rethread the top thread iii) start adjusting the top tension. The Cobra 26 is a clone of the old Juki LS-341 so I would follow those threading instructions. It does differ from that of the what Cobra does on the top thread path. Refer to Section 9 THREADING THE MACHINE HEAD. I have attached a pdf of the manual. A few photo's of your thread path from the spool to the tip of the needle would help. kgg Juki LS-341N Instruction Manual-3.pdf

The Consew appears to be a decent clone machine at a decent price point. Remember no one machine is going to be able to do everything. I think the main factors in selecting a machine is dependent on what you are planning on sewing, the size of thread you want to use and the thickness of material being sewn. If most of your items are going to be close to or above 3/8" thick or you want to use above V207 then a class 441 machine probably would be a better investment. If the majority of your items can be handled by a Class 1341 machine with a flatbed attachment I would select it over a flatbed just because of the versatility. The flatbed attachment will give you the ability to do flat or cylinder work without having to have a second machine. I would also suggest if most of your items will work well on a Class 1341 like a Juki LS-1341 or clone get the best you can afford and wait for a good second hand Class 441 or vise versa. Also chances are at some point down the road you will sell you machine and keep in mind a brand name machine like Juki / PFAFF /Alder will be easier to sell and command a higher resale price then a clone. Decisions Decisions. Typically the 135 x 16 or 135 x 17 needles as well as the 134 needles are for upholstery class machines both flatbed like Juki 1181N (and respective clones) and Juki 1541 (and respective clones) and cylinder arm Class 1341 like Juki LS-1341(and respective clones) while the Class 441 like the Juki TSC441 (and respective clones) uses the much large 793 needles. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

If you go to Toledo sewing machine website for the Consew 206RB-5 ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html ) the machine is rated for a #25 needle and V207 thread. Note that a #25 needle will handle V277 thread. From that I would assume it can handle V207 thread to the max sewing thickness as you sometimes have to go up a needle size up for the thread size being used when sewing in thick items. In your case V207 thread with a #25 needle rather then a #24 needle. kgg

It may fit just depends on the servo motor you get, how far it hangs down from the bottom of the table and the size of pulley it has or you are placing on the servo motor shaft. If you have to get a new belt a lot of people just use the 3L V belts you can get at hardware / auto supply stores. Yes there can be quite a difference in quality of servo motors. There are basically to versions of servo motors. Depending on what continent you live on one or both versions maybe available. i) One is a servo motor that uses brushes inside the motor and speed is typically set by a simple turn dial. A 550 watt should work find with the Singer 111W. ii) The other version is a brushless servo motor which has a box of electronics that controls the speed. If you decide to go this route then the more internal coils the servo motor has the better the servo motor. The cheap Chinese ones typically have 6 coils while the better ones like the Reliable 6000sm or Sailrite Workhorse have 12 coils. A lot of the brushless servo motors have or have the ability to install needle positioning. The problem with that is that if you install a speed reducer chances are the needle positioning will not work. Another point to note is the startup rpm's on the some are in the 200 range while others are in the 500 range. A speed reducer will help to smooth out any noticeable jump on startup. My attitude is the less electronics the better. kgg

The Artisan 797, Cowboy 797, Weaver 303 appear to be very similar / clone of the Juki 1181N. The Sailrite Leatherworker is just a portable walking foot Sailrite LS painted green thrown into a small table with a very good servo motor. It is rated for 1/4 " thick (maybe) with V92 thread in a class 15 bobbin (very small). Depending what you want to sew and the thickness they maybe OK but I would consider all of them really better for fabric applications. As has been suggested a Consew 206RB-5 would be a far better choice amongst the clones. kgg

That was interesting as to what an old Landis 16 can do. Pure punching power. kgg

I think you have a Singer 111w 153 machine according to one of your previous posts. Go to your manual page 14 it will explain how to adjust the bobbin tension. If you don't have a manual I have attached a pdf. of the manual as well as better / clearer images of those pages from that manual. Also here is a link for a needle to thread size chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html A #22 and #23 needle are for V138 in thinner items or with V92 in thicker materials. You would probably have to move to a #24 for thicker materials with V138 thread. kgg 111w152.pdf 111w152.pdf

A couple of basic questions: i) what size of thread is the new thread? Often times thread from the same manufacturer can have slight variations from batch to batch or comes from a different factory so it is important to check tensions for the top and in the bobbin thread. If you changed to a Chinese made thread all bets are off. I've even seen where they run out of thread while loading the spool and just tied the two ends together to complete the spool. ii) what size of needle are you using? If the size of the hole that the needle makes is to large for the size of thread being used it will cause the bobbin thread to come to the surface. iii) did you do a drop test to help with setting the bobbin tension? iv) are you sure you threaded the top thread correctly? Sometimes when you are in hurry or tired it can happen that you missed something. How I re-thread the top thread is I cut the old thread off close to the top spool guide and tie the ends of the old to the new thread. Then I remove the old thread from the eye of the needle and pull the old thread out from the needle end. That way the new thread follows the threading path of the old thread. kgg

The Juki LU-1508 is a different series of machine with 7 variants then the Juki DNU-1541 series which has 3 variants. Both series look very similar but the main visual difference is the bed size and weight. Bed size : LU-1508 series bed is 517mm long versus the 1541 series being 477mm long Weight: LU-1508 series weights vary depending on the variant between 42.5 kg (~94 lbs) and 48kg(~106 lbs) while the DNU-1541 series eights depending on the variant between 36.5 kg (~79 lbs) to 42.5 (~94 lbs) kgg

I think the cylinder arm Juki Ls-1341 or a clone is probably as close to a "one trick pony" as you are going to get. Add a table attachment and you sort of got a flatbed machine. I turned my Kobe LS-1341 into a binding machine. I do a fair bit of binding. When it comes to binding you can use the expensive 90 degree style of binding attachments and they well allow for doing binding around tighter corners. For my situation as I had flatbed machines before I got a cylinder I wanted to be able to use the same binding attachments that I use on the Juki 1181N or the 1541S and use them on the LS-1341 clone or the TSC-441 clone. So to that end I designed up some attachments and printed them to allow for this. There is also quite a bit of difference cost wise between the standard inline and the 90 degree binding attachments, $100 versus $20 per tape size. If you are planning on visiting a vendor call them a couple of days before hand to set up a time and tell them what machines you are interested in so they can set one up for you to test drive. If they don't or can't set a machine up for you then they maybe they are just selling you an untested "fresh off the boat machine". If they are selling "fresh off the boat machines" you probably can get the same / similar machine with that same level of service from a lot of online vendors. Here is some photo's of older versions of what I came up for binding using standard inline binding attachments for my LS-1341 (first three photo's) and TSC-441 clones. kgg

Think of the "S" version as cheap insurance. The cost difference between the 1541 and the 1541"S" is about $100. The safety clutch when it kicks in protects a lot of internal parts from getting damaged. Depending on how badly you fool up usually it is just a matter of resetting the safety and you are sewing again. Without the safety clutch timing issues could be the least of your worries should a problem occur. As a side note my Juki DNU -1541"S" hates items less then 5mm thick and much prefers thicker items with V92 thread as a minimum top and bobbin thread size. Since you are doing bags have you considered looking at a Class 341/ 1341 machine like a Juki LS-1341 or clone coupled with a table top attachment? kgg

No, the length of the 16x231 needles is 33.9mm with a shank diameter of 1.63mm while the length of the 135 x 16 or the 135x17 is 38.9mm and the diameter of the shank is 2mm. This machine is not going to be able to sew gun holsters or belts. It probably will only be able to sew very thin leather. kgg

I personally only use Schmetz needles in any of my machines. I've never had any issues with that brand. kgg

Good needles, good thread, good bobbins and oil. In my opinion, the only validate reasons to use a different size of top thread then whats in the bobbin are: i) Top side thread appearance. Doing this results in the strength of the seam being reduced to that of the smaller sized thread in the bobbin. ii) Using a thread that exceeds the max thread rating of the machine. If you have to use a smaller thread in the bobbin because of bobbin head space clearances you are using the wrong class of machine to do the work. No. Yes, you will get more of the smaller size thread on the bobbin but the amount difference is going to be small. Remember these machines are heavy and have a tendency of tipping the nose forward. The head alone is going to be about 120 lbs so getting it placed on the stand and bolts in place really needs at least two people and make sure the wheels are locked / blocked so the stand doesn't move away from you. kgg

Yes changing the motor from a clutch motor, which I'm assuming yours has from the comment "goes like spit", to a servo motor is easy. Basically you unbolt the old motor from the table and almost always it is a straight install of the new motor using the same bolts. The problem is the weight of the those old clutch motors. I would suggest removing the sewing machine from the table and turn the table upside down then unbolt and remove the old motor. Your back will thank you. The cost of a decent servo motor will be about $150 to $250 CAD and a 550 watt should be plenty for your machine. kgg

Simple answer is No. The patchers were never meant to sew with such heavy thread. If you want to use V277 or V346 thread you are looking at a Class 441 motor driven machine similar to the Cowboy 4500 or Cobra Class 4 or a a one armed bandit like Cowboy Outlaw, Tippmann Boss, Weaver Cub. kgg

I think that is a wise decision. I think going with a Juki would be probably a good choice particularly since access to accessories and replacement parts is easy and are priced reasonably. kgg

Some of the rebadged machines actually had the original manufacturers identification in the bottom of the casing. I don't know of any rebadged machines out their today but I haven't looked. Most clones are made in China or Taiwan these days. Even with the Juki machines not all models are made in Japan as I have a Juki DNU-1541S made in Japan and my Juki DU 1181N is made in China. As far as I'm concerned here is a difference in quality. The Juki DNU-1541S, Juki LS-1341 and the Juki TSC-441 are still made for now in Japan. Also some models are made in Vietnam. Seiko's are also is still made in Japan. I do know that all clones are not created equal. The casings maybe a bit rougher some made with Chineseism metal but the problem is some don't use the original style of bobbin mechanisms and the quality of other internal parts can be less then. A couple years back a member was having problems with his 1541 clone bobbin and bobbin case mechanism and when we compared his photo's to my Juki Dnu-1541S they were completely different. Just like the parts in the Sailrite portable walking foot sewing machines are generally less then hence the price difference between the Sailrite at $1500 CAD and the clones at $600 CAD. They have to cut corners somewhere. Dealers bad mouthing other dealers machines is like the pot calling the kettle black. I would ask an independent repair person as to what he generally sees as problem machines. The only advice I can really give about the clones is deal with a dealer brand name or clone that you think can supply the best after market service. kgg

@toxo Looks to be in good shape, price seems in line with what a good used one would cost at about 45 percent that of a new one on this side of the pond. However I would probably checkout some of the clone dealers like Tysew, Typical or Highlead you never know what they may have. kgg