kgg

I use a 8 oz hammer and a Weaver Rivet Burr Setter and Nipper Pliers. How I install a rivet and burr: i) I install the rivet of the appropriate length and size. ii) I install the burr with a Weaver Rivet Burr setter so it set so it compresses the leather slightly. I find the Weaver Rivet Burr setter much better then the cheap Chinese ones. As a note the Weaver is made with real metal that you hang it on magnetic strip, the Chinese one is some sort of metalish material that will not stick to a magnetic. iii) I cut the shank of the rivet with either a 8" Nipper Pliers for #12 rivets or a 10" Nipper Pliers for #9 rivets. The shank of the #9 is much thicker then the #12. The cutting head leaves the right amount of rivet shank above the burr. iv) Lastly I use the Weaver Rivet Burr setter to round the head of the shank. I rotate the Weaver Rivet Burr around the rivet shank as I hammer it. As long as the rivet is peened over the hole edge of the burr it should provide proper strength. Job done. kgg

Your machine should be able to handle up to V138 thread. Here is a good needle to thread chart: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Here is a link to a video that shows a visual comparison of thread. A couple of notes about the linked video: ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lfMD8WEHoE ) i) the person doing the video really doesn't understand the various thread sizing / labeling of thread. ii) The white threads he calls it a #40 is V69. By looking at the label it appears to be a Chinese thread and they typically size their thread in the metric sizing and a #40 is the same as V69. iii) The burgundy thread he calls it a #92 which is V92 and appears correct. iv) The purple thread he calls it a #135 which appears to be a Tex 135 and that is the same as V138. v) The red thread he calls it a #138 meaning V138. That is the US standard for thread sizing. The purple and red thread are the same just a different way of indicating it's size on the label. From what I have seen is the Chinese threads are usually just labeled in the metric size with a "#" while North American threads are label with both the "Tex # XXX" and the US standard "V # XXX". Do yourself a favor and buy good quality thread not the cheap Chinese stuff and get better results with less frustration. Thread size V69 ( Tex 70, 40 M, 40, Tkt 40 ) is the largest size most domestic machines can handle and is the crossover size to industrial sewing thread. Confused yet? kgg

The correct needle system for the Singer 111W156 is 135 x 16 for leather and 135 x 17 for fabric. The person might have owned a PFAFF machine or purchased them incorrectly or converted the machine to use needle system 134. I would pull the needle in the machine and see what is actually in the needle bar. Like @Constabulary check the needle bar height and use needle system 135 x16 or 135 x 17. kgg

With a max 100 (#16) needle you are going to be very limited in your thread size (V69 max) which in turn is going to limit sewing thickness ability. From that needle size. From that spec alone I would not recommend purchasing this machine for what you originally listed as items you want / need to sew. kgg

According to the spec ( https://jukiquilting.com/media/catalog/product/t/l/tl-18qvp_instruction_manual.pdf ) on page #4 your machine is only rated for V46 (Tex 45) max as it on that a domestic needle up to a #14. That did surprise me. Most domestic sewing machines can handle V69. If I'm not mistake that is usually a spec for quilting machines. In my opinion V69 thread is the cross over point from domestic to industrial machines. Here is a good needle size to thread size: ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) which also gives the strength of the thread. In most cases as the thickness increases it is easier to bury the thread knot with the right machine. I do really like Juki machines but you can get a comparable clone for a lot less which may serve you really well. If you go the clone route ask the vendor what it is a clone of from that you can determine pretty quickly what it's capabilities are. Still unsure just post a question to the form before you buy, I'm sure someone will be able to help. kgg

Those machines are basically clones of the older Juki LS-341. Getting a cylinder arm with a table top attachment and there are many available would be a good all rounder. It will give sorta kinda give you the ability of a flatbed machine. Remember there is no one machine that will do everything well. My experience is that some industrial machines even though rated for V69 ( Tex70 ) really don't like it and can be really finicky with thin thread in thinner items, preferring V138 (Tex135). What you may find is using your Juki TL-18qvp for the linings and the cylinder arm for the leather portion of your project. Most upholstery class machines like the Juki DNU-1541S are rated typically to handle up to 3/8" of leather while the cylinder arm machines like a Juki LS-341 can handle up to about 1/2" or so of leather. The main problem with using 2 oz leather is going to be setting up the machine, cylinder or flatbed. Getting the knot to be buried in the leather. My Juki DNU- 1541S hates working with thin stuff that is why I have a Juki DU1181N rated for V92 but I run V138 in that machine with no problems. If you decide to go with a flatbed I would suggest going with the Juki DNU-1541S. I have owned both the Consew 206RB-5 and the Juki DNU-1541S. In my opinion the Juki is a much better machine. Since this is going to be expensive no matter which machine you decide on I would suggest going to a vendor with a sample of your stuff and test drive some machines. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I have a little Juki 1181N that has an oil pump but like @dikman I do manually oil the machine. The problem with a lot of machines that have an oil pump is we don't run them flat out and at slow speed the pump probably does provide proper lubrication. To combat that when I need to use that machine I always first remove the thread from the needle lift the presser foot up and run the machine for a couple of minutes at a slow speed then gradually increasing the speed to a fairly high rpm. kgg

Depending on what you are sewing you may need different feet like left toe, right toe, piping, etc. and if you are doing binding you need binders/folders, etc. The roller guide you may find gets in the way a would prefer a drop down guide with a straight edge rather then a roller guide. The list is endless it just depends on what will make you projects go easier. Finding some accessory items for PFAFF can be a chore, if available, particularly for older machines. What is the max needle size in system 134 that this machine is rated for? If it similar to the 335 going above V92 (30 M) then this could be a problem. What size of thread do you want to use?? What is the max thickness you want / need to sew??? kgg

I think to get both sides properly done and that can be consistently repeated you need to start out with a good mold. A mold that consists of two halves where the bottom half and top half can be compressed together otherwise you will never get proper fitting item. You could make a mold out of wood or have one 3D printed. I suspect a 3D printed mold would be the best cheapest route. kgg

With odd ball setups like this one I totally agree with @Constabulary. When those bells and whistles work they work very nicely and do good work but when they don't it would probably be cheaper to junk the machine rather then trying to repair them. I would suggest you try and find a machine, flatbed or cylinder arm, that has a standard setup say comparable to a Juki DNU-1541S (flatbed), Juki LS-341 or 1341 (cylinder arm ) or clones. The parts and accessories are a lot cheaper and can be readily had should something happen. kgg

Also you need to add the weight of the packing particularly if the unit is used and it is being shipped by wooden crate. Also ask the seller to send a photo of how they are planning on packing it. If it is not properly packed up you could windup with a box full of broken parts. Also have it insured against shipping damages. kgg

To get controllable slow speed sewing and to reduce your frustration level I would suggest: 1) dump that clutch motor ---- Clutch motor: i) It is always going to be on at full speed probably revving at 1750 rpm's or 3500 rpms. ii) It is going to be annoying loud. iii) Learning how to feather the clutch has a very steep learning curve for most. 2) Install a servo motor: i) about $150 this side of the pond. ii) More energy efficient as the motor runs only when you press the "go" pedal iii) More bottom end torque. iv) ability to set the speed and no matter how hard you depress the "go" pedal the speed will not exceed that setting 3) install a speed reducer for added torque but most importantly added speed reduction. kgg

No, you well screw the machine up and have a terrible mess on your hands. You will have to: i) have the needle in the down position and just on it's way up so the hook has caught the bobbin thread ii) raise the presser foot just off the material and slowly turn the item around iii) drop the presser foot down and sew Chances are you will not be able to use V207 thread consistently in thick or tough materials or materials with pile layer like carpet. I would recommend V138 with system 135 X 16 (leather point needle) using either a size 23 or 24 needle. Are planning on doing a single fold or double fold with the leather binding and how thick is the leather binding??? kgg

Before getting your next machine you should post a new topic that your are considering XXXX machines to do your particular work. You will get the good, bad and ugly about the machine before you buy it. kgg

That is a very pretty table but seems impractical to me with limited usability for a cylinder arm machine more of a show piece. The drop leave end is nice space saving touch. I think when you are sat at the machine you will find that you are going to have to put one leg outside the left side table leg which probably is not going to be a comfortable sitting / sewing position. Also that beautiful hardwood swivel is going to be real pain in the butt, literally. The question I think is would this table arrangement work for the items you want to sew? If you plan on doing bag type work a cylinder arm mounted on a flat table like this one will not give the freedom as a "U" shaped or a table that mounts the machine so the cylinder arm overhangs the end of the table which gives clearance basically to the floor. From the photo of the motor it appears to have the standard triangle mounting arrangement as all motors, clutch or servo. A servo will give you better speed control that is much more quiet then a clutch, cheaper to operator as the motor only runs when you press the "go" pedal and provide better bottom end torque. I would suggest finding either a brushed servo motor or brushless servo motor. Like @canvassewing has suggest a 750 watt would probably work quite nicely. If you choose a brushless servo motor the more internal coils it has the better the motor. A couple of questions: i) What do you want to sew?? Fabric, Leather ii) What size of thread do want to use?? iii) Which model is this PFAFF machine?? iv) What are they asking for it?? You maybe better off buying a clone with a proper industrial table setup. kgg

I agree with @dikman this is a binding machine. I did look at the spec part of your "Made in China" advertisement: 1) particularly the "Presser Foot Lift" at 15mm. Allowing for a necessary 3mm (1/8") gap from the presser foot to the top of an item being sewn leaves 12mm as a very max sewing thickness, not necessarily leather. Your 12 oz of leather would have a total 4.78 mm ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/pages/leather-thickness ) so you would be well within having enough space under the presser foot. 2) the video on the "Made in China" advertisement. Shows this machine as what appears to be needle feed machine not a compound or walking foot machine made for Fabric applications. 3) The only reference I could find about the needle system was it takes system DP 17. The DP17 is the same as needle system as 135 x 16 for leather and 135 x 17 for fabric. I could not find any reference to the max needle size but looking at a PFAFF 335 manual it max out at a #16 (100 metric) which means it can handle V69 thread. 4) Here is a good reference chart for needle to thread size ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) My personal opinion is that this machine is meant to do "Fabric" work of flat binding with no major thickness changes like going from 1.6 mm to 3.2 mm (4 to 8 oz leather) using a max thread size of V69. The machine probably could handle V92 in certain types of materials. Just because you can stuff a # 22 or 23 needle in the needle bar that can take V138 doesn't mean it will have the necessary needle to hook clearance. I think this is the wrong machine for sewing leather of that thickness. To do the job properly and consistently with V138 thread in 12 oz of leather you need in a cylinder arm a Class 341 or 1341 machine like a Juki LS-341 or 1341 or clone. kgg

I don't think link belts will give the proper surface contact with the stock pulleys of the motor, speed reducer or the sewing machine. kgg

Thank you. It has got to be the photo as the belt is a 44 inches belt as measured from the center (#3 of 5 tongue oblong holes) to the belt side of the buckle. The keeper is 3/4" wide. He likes to slide the end of the belt into the first loop on his jeans so that is why I extended the tongue. I have never done it but I guess it could be done with a good skiver or maybe using some leather binding and a binder attachment to add a nice finished edge. kgg

If anyone is going to give a belt a run for it's money, it's my brother. What do you use when gluing leather together?? kgg

I did build a basic no frills leather belt for the brother and just never uploaded the photo's. For this project I used a Techsew 2750 Pro which had no problems sewing two layers of 6.5 oz chrome tan, groaned on three layers but wouldn't do four layers of 6.5 oz of chrome tan. The belt construction: 1) two 1.5" wide strips of 6.5 oz chrome tan. 2) the strips were contact cemented together with Lepage Heavy Duty Contact Cement. This step required two coats of glue as the first coat soaked into the leather. I was going to buy Barges but when I read the instructions it said it may require two coats on porous material. Is Barges that much better then Lepage Heavy Duty Contact Cement??? 3) the belt blank was then sewn with V138 Bonded Polyester along the edges 4) I then 3D printed two hole templates,one for the buckle end and one for the tongue end. I went to get a template and was shocked a the price of templates from free paper ones to $50 acrylic. The problem that I seen with the ones I looked at was they all just laid on top of the leather. This means they can wonder left to right. I guess you could tape them in place on the leather. So me being me I 3D printed two templates that the leather sits in so there is no wonder left to right as I bang the punch through. The buckle end would not have been a problem. The front was another matter when I tried to punch the five 5mm x 8mm oblong holes for the tongue end on a test piece. I got really nice oblong holes equally spaced that looked terrible. Like a duck waddled down the strip of leather. One was cantered left, one to the right and the others weren't much better. 5) Well since chrome tan can't be as far as I know be burnished like veg tan and I am lousy at edge coating I had to come up with something to sort of smooth out the belt edges. So I figured that burnishing lay's the fibers flat and burns the edge. My idea which seems to sort of work would be to try good old fashion "Udder Smooth" on the edges and run my soldering iron with a flat brass insert attachment over the edge. I cranked the soldering iron up to 840 F. See if the brother destroys this 12 - 13 oz real leather belt. Any and all comments are appreciated. kgg

The problem with the Consew in Ontario is they are not a popular / common brand probably because they are a lot more expensive then other brands of similar capabilities. My experience with selling the Consew's that I have owned over the years is that they are very difficult to resell at any price point. You basically got to give them away. As a note it is cheaper to buy a new Consew 206RB-5 from a USA vendor and have it shipped then it is to buy new one in Ontario. The base price of new Consew 206RB in the US would be about $2000 CAD ($1450 USD) vs $3200 CAD ($2300 USD). kgg

A couple of questions. 1) What machine are you using? 2) What size of needle are you using? 3) What size of thread are you using? kgg

I'm assuming you purchased it new so I would suggest giving the vendor a call. kgg

When I realized the date of the original post I edited my post. kgg

@Bugg like @Constabulary has suggested we need a little more info. kgg