kgg

What I found too work the best whether it is chrome or veg tan is to apply one coat of contact cement let sit to soak into and dry. Then apply a second coat and when it has dried to the point of not being sticky to the touch put both pieces together, clamp or weight down depending on the size. My theory is the first coat seals the fibres of the leather and the second binds both pieces together. kgg

My two cents worth: i) it is a class 441 machine just based on the needle system it uses. ii) the size of the hole it will punch is equal to basically a 2 1/2" finishing nail. iii) the max size thread it can handle is V346 minimum size is V69 iv) the max thickness the machine will sew is rated for 1/2". v) the cost for a new machine is about $2200 USD The questions: i) What is the asking price which will depend on the condition? Any photo's? ii) What size of thread do you what to use? iii) How thick is the thickest leather you will need / want to sew. iv) How often you will use the machine? If it is infrequently maybe consider a Cowboy Outlaw( new ~ $1400) or Tippman Boss (new ~$1000) kgg

Very nicely done. kgg

That is a great idea. kgg

Hum, that can't be right. I know casting, how can I make it easier. As a replacement to the lost wax method of casting maybe use 3D printed castings. kgg

I think for photo's they maybe good but not so much for spraying as the LED's would probably get covered from overspray. Thank you. I think some of the fumes comes from the thinner being used. I use alcohol as the thinning agent. I think that would work really nicely. But remember no project is complete with 3D. You must have a bit of Newfoundlander in ya. It's always nice to scrounge materials. kgg

This is a followup to my topic "Airbrushing" for dying leather with a short video of my setup at the end of this long post. The video was done setup on my deep-freezer just for ease. Airbrushing has a natural pocket emptying progression just like sewing machines. Get a Airbrush and a Compressor it'll be easy but what about where to actually do the airbrushing??? The great outdoors when it's + 30 C or - 30 C or the comfort of your leather room, basement, etc. That leads to dealing with any unwanted fumes contaminating the area or dealing with possible over-spray landing on other projects / tools / leather. My solution was to build a fairly inexpensive spray booth and indoor filtration system for indoor use. I didn't want to cut a hole through the side of the house and deal with spray staining the siding or poke a hose out a window particularly in the winter. To that end I decided to use: 1) A clear 102 litre (27 US gallons) plastic tote for a couple of reasons. i) Lighting: Allows room light inside the tote ii) Interior Surface: All totes are not equal the one I choose has a real slippery surface and even a permanent maker will not mark it unlike other clear or colored totes. iii) Size: 102 litre (27 US gallons) iv) Price: $20 CAD 2) Exhausting: i) The interior lighting via a 12v DC LED at a 45 degree angle. ii) The interior of the tote by using two 140mm 12v DC computer fans that suck at 1.8m/s each (measured with air gauge), are almost silent and will empty the interior air space of the tote in 1.7 seconds with 1.8m/s at the exhaust vent of the bucket. iii) I connected two 5" x 8' flexible ducts to the fans. iv) Price: $40 CAD as the LED and fans were left over parts from other projects. 3) Filtration: i) one 5 US gallon bucket and cover. ii) Window Air Conditioner fabric, HEPA filter, iii) Price: $12 CAD 4) Power: i) 120v AC - 12 DC, 150 w Power Supply ii) 120v AC Power Bar to supply spray booth fans, light and airbrush compressor iii) Price: $35 CAD 5) Miscellaneous items i) 3mm nut /bolts / washers ii) 3D printed housings for Fans, Duct Connections to Fan Housings, 5 gallon Filtration Bucket, Power Supply, Airbrush Holder, Rotating Platter Support and LED supports iii) The Rotating Platter was a 5 gallon bucket lid with a 1/4" bolt and some cardboard iv) Price: $20 CAD Total Cost: $127 CAD Now you got to remember that I am an cheap old geezer and depending on what you have kicking around your costs / results may vary. All comments appreciated but be gentle as I am not comfortable with video's. kgg

For a V92 thread you need a #20 in thin leather or a #22 in thick leather. Here is a good needle size vs thread size chart ( condiments of @CowboyBob ).https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html One layer unless it is fairly thick can be difficult to bury the knot in. To small a thread for the needle size will look slack. Don't forget to hold the top and bobbin thread ends for the first few stitches and there are two ways to start. i) most common method is to hold the thread ends, stitch 3 or 4 forward, reverse back 3 or 4 stitches to lock them and go forward to continue your seam. ii) less commonly done but gives a nicer, less bulky stitch at the start of your seam. Start your stitch line in the distance of 3 or 4 stitches and while holding both thread ends reverse back 3 or 4 stitches and then go forward to do your seam. kgg

For the leather part up to 3/8" thick of your planned sewing I agree with @Wizcrafts. However the biothane is a completely different beast as you are basically sewing through sticky rubberish material so you may have to go up to a Class 441 machine like a manual one arm bandit ( Tippman Boss or a Cowboy Outlaw) or motorized Class 441 like a Cowboy 2500, 3500 or 4500. A lot is going to depend on the thread size you want to use, thickness of item and how deep your pockets are. kgg

@AlZilla , @Rogueshoemaking The Singer 236G136 and the Singer 236W131 are almost identical except: i) 236G131: letter G shows it was produced in Germany, typically at the Karlsruhe factory. ii) 236W131: letter W shows it was produced in the United States at Elizabethport, New Jersey plant. iii) the Singer 236W131 (U.S. model) uses the 134 (DP×5) system, while the Singer 236G131 (German model) uses the 287 (16×21) system. A parts manual for the Singer 236G131 can be found at Henderson Sewing http://hensewfiles.com/PDFs/SINGER 236G130.pdf Using a small size needle with V45 (60) thread you might want to also order some #18 needles for thicker items. kgg

You gotta be careful with all adverts as they typically lie like a cheap rug's. I figured as much but most of the better programs can do those conversions. I mention .step file format as that is what I use in Fusion 360 as it can be ported easily to other programs. kgg

Your machine according to, The Thread Exchange ( https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-systems-singer-236-B-to-391-A ), the Singer Model# 236-G All Classes use needle system 287 Equivalent to 287 H, 16X21, 16X269, 376, CANU 11:60. The size of the needle will depend on the thread that you are using. Here is a good cross reference of thread to size of needle: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

Once again, a very nicely done video. It would have been nice to see what files could be imported directly to the lasers software like .step files or if certain formats need to be converted before being imported. I think if you want to reduce / eliminate those fumes that are now leaking into the room from the machine I would suggest: i) enclosed the unit in a secondary enclosure. ii) install a couple of 120mm computer fans to exhaust the fumes to a 19 litre (5 US gal) plastic bucket with a carbon filter on the buckets exhaust. kgg

The Ikonix ks335a is a clone of the PFAFF 335 so a presser foot for a PFAFF 335 should fit. Look on Amazon for " CKPSMS Brand -#KP-19029 Double Toe&Left Toe& Right Toe Compatible with/Replacement for Pfaff Brand 335 145 245 545 1245 Sewing Machine ". kgg

@Constabulary I really enjoyed those video's. A bygone time when there was pride in workmanship right down to the making of needles. Notice the overhead drive system for the lathes etc. kgg

I would suggest taking a sample, like a leg of a pant and going to a dealer to test what machine would work best. kgg

In the video you referenced. i) They are using some sort of adhesive probably double sided basting tape as noted by them pounding the patch onto the jeans and the roll of 1/2" wide basting tape on the table. ii) The patches appear to be 2 oz chrome tan. ii) The sewing machine appears to be a flatbed drop feed Juki DDL-8700 H with a Teflon presser foot. iii) The thread appears to be V69 or V92 but the photo's appear to be V92 or V138. The Juki DDL-8700 can only take V69 max and the DDL-8700H can take V138 max. iv) The needle system of the Juki DDL 8700H uses the DBx1 needle system up to size #18 (110) needle for V69 and for thread above V69 uses a needle system 134. v) as seen in the later part of the video they have to crunch up the jeans to sew the patch in place which is what you would expect for a flatbed machine. I would Not recommend the Juki DNU-1541 even though it is a really good triple feed Japanese made machine for a few reasons. i) the hole in the feed dog is very large and has a tendency to suck thinner materials down into the needle plate. ii) absolutely hates thinner materials that is why I also have a Juki DU-1181N to cover off the thin stuff. I would recommend if you are only planning on sewing flat items like a wallet / belts get a flatbed. If you are going to sew items that are circular like pant legs get a cylinder arm with a flatbed attachments like a Juki LS-1341 or clone. Most people go with a clone machine as a Juki LS-1341 will cost north of $5000 while a clone will run about $2500. kgg

I think more people have gone from tobacco to vaping as the prices for cigarettes and other tobacco products are crazy. A pack of 20 cigarettes in Ontario is now roughly $20 CAD. After 50 years of smoking I gave up my 4 pack a day habit about 7 years ago. To keep myself sort of sane I now vape to my hearts content for about $30 a month. kgg

Hope it helps and I would be interested in knowing how it works out. kgg

I have used Angelus dye and it is an excellent product just to expensive to use on a regular basis. I mostly use Fiebing's dye with good results. The econo leathers I think tend to be a bit drier then the more expensive ones. I also don't use NFO oil for many reasons and prefer JoJoba oil as it is the closest you can get to sperm whale oil. I oil first before applying any dye and let sit for 24 hours to soak in and spread out opening the fibres of the leather. This link to a topic maybe of some help or give you some ideas on your dying process. kgg

Interesting I have never seen a Singer 45k or 46k that was a flatbed before. The machine mounted clutch system was probably setup so the machine could be driven from a ceiling or wall mounted main drive system that powered more then one machine in a factory setting. kgg

My take: i) The CB3200 is a class 441 machine. The needle will put a huge hole in your item. The needle diameter as that of 2 1/2 " finishing nail. ii) The price is not a great deal as you can get a brand new one for a couple hundred more. iii) Thirdly, it is made for heavier items like holsters. For your projects that you listed the one machine that would be close to a "jacket of all trades" would be a Class 341 / 1341 machine like a Juki LS-1341 or clone like a Cowboy CB341 or a Cobra Class 26 with a table top attachment. kgg

I enjoyed the video. kgg

According to the parts manual there are two screws (position and a set screw) holding the handwheel on. Parts manual reference ( https://southstarsupply.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Singer-211G165-G166-G265-G266.pdf ). I would remove both and put a couple drops of diesel in each hole and let sit for a few hours before trying to remove the handwheel. You may have to use a wheel puller and a hammer to move the handwheel back and forth as it maybe seized onto the shaft once you remove those screws. Getting those screws will also be difficult to remove. With all that work done and the new needle positioner install the question remains why do you want / need to install the needle positioner??? kgg

I use good fashion contact cement. I don't think the brand name really matters much. What I have found that bests works for me and gives me the best holding is to apply one coat on the flesh (fuzzy) side of the pieces, let dry then add a second coat until dry (about 10 -15 minutes), mate the two pieces, use a roller to evenly press the pieces together, clamp or weight down the pieces and let sit for 12-24 hours. My theory is the first coat of contact cement sinks into the fibres and binds them together. The second coat holds both surfaces permanently together. I have found sometimes with only one coat of contact cement the two pieces can be pulled apart. kgg