kgg

I think most of us have done that move. kgg

Nicely done and I see you managed to get the foot lift on the 1341. kgg

A couple of suggestions: 1. Belt maybe to tight. The belt should have about 1/2" (12mm) deflection. 2. Servo motors have a minimum startup speed. Some have start speeds of 200 rpm while others are 500 rpm just depends on the manufacturer design (brush versus brushless motors). A way to help minimize this is to reduce the size of the pulley on the motor and add a speed reducer pulley to the configuration. kgg

No bother at all. I finally have settled on a design and have about 90 percent of the parts completed. My goal is to have the swing away clicker press completed within a month or so. As usual some things, boarding kennel maintenance / repairs and four new to me machines to review/ setup/ overhaul / decide which ones I'm keeping for myself have taken priority. kgg

I think finding someone with extensive experience on all three machines maybe difficult. Most people I think choose one machine over another for various reasons and either stick with that machine or move onto a motorized Class 441 machine. I almost bought the Cowboy Outlaw but in the end decided to go with a Juki TSC-441 clone. Another option would be a used one arm bandit to see if that style of machine would suit your needs. There is a used one listed by one of the forum members that maybe worth checking out. ( https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/117513-good-used-tippmann-boss-leather-sewing-machine/ ) kgg

From the photo of the machine it is a not a Consew 255RB-3 as the stitch length dial is not on the front alongside the reverse lever but appears to be adjusted by moving the dial on the handwheel, the Consew name tag is the older style, and it does not have a built in safety clutch. Safety clutch basically disengages when you jam the machine up and prevents damage to the bottom end components of the machine. You should check and see what model this is. Personally for doing the items you listed the Sailrite Fabricator in my opinion would be a better bet for flat items and cylinder arm machine would be probably better for bag type items. I would suggest you consider a cylinder arm machine rather then a flatbed like a Juki LS-341/1341 or clone and install a flatbed attachment. You can turn a cylinder arm machine into sorta a flatbed. When it comes to the Juki LS-341/1341 clones there are many available like Cowboy CB341, Kobe LS-1341, Techsew 2750, Cobra Class 26 to name a few. kgg

Maybe. It depends on what you want to sew and the condition of the machine. I'm assuming the model is a Consew 255RB-3. 1) A new Consew 255RB-3 is about $2700 USD so getting one for $1100 would be about 60 percent saving over the cost of a new one. But it may have been rode hard, put away wet and be not worth $500. A couple of photo's would be helpful. Reference ( https://www.jacksew.com/consew-255rb-3-single-needle-compound-walking-foot-sewing-machine-with-table-and-servo-motor/ ). 2) A new Sailrite Fabricator $1800 USD. Reference ( https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine-in-Power-Stand-with-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-Kit ). 3) The Consew 255RB-3 can handle up to V346 thread. Reference #8 Thread page 4 ( https://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/255RB-3.pdf ). 4) The Sailrite Fabricator can handle up to V138. Reference Specifications ( https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine-in-Power-Stand-with-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-Kit ) Depending on what you want to sew the Consew maybe to much machine or the Sailrite maybe to little. What do you want to sew??? kgg

For sale a good used Aluminum Flatbed Table Attachment by Barbara of Recent Relics Designs. Fits Juki LS-341 / LS-1341 and clones like Techsew 2750. Price $180 CAD ( $130 USD ). Presently on a Techsew 2750. Here is a link to a new one ( https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1165256487/aluminum-cylinder-arm-table-inventory?click_key=ae4992d3b837e0688f6c3753279fde52bb200739%3A1165256487&click_sum=67edec95&ref=shop_home_active_17&sca=1&sts=1 ). Location of Item: Ontario, Canada Shipping: Additional Cost. kgg

Great Info and nice repair hack. In Canada that press is expensive $674.99 CAD plus shipping plus 13 percent tax. I would have thought replacement parts would have been easily had. Another option for those with a 3D printer those discs could be custom printed at about 2 cents each. They probably will not last as long as the Delrin. I opted for the el cheapo Chinese presses and dies for my needs and usage costing about $100 CAD for a large one and $60 CAD for a smaller one delivered. I have one setup as a punch and the other as a setter so I'm not having to change the settings or bits and pieces. kgg

I think he needs a Class 441 machine to do tack. A couple suggestions would be: 1) One armed bandits: Tippmann Boss, Cowboy Outlaw, Weaver Master Tool Cub 2) Motorized: Juki TSC-441 and clones kgg

@ruthio1 Here is a link to a Thompson Mini Walking foot sewing machine Model PW-301. You can download it yourself as it is to large to download here. It is really a good quality pdf file on the 301. If I remember correctly a lot of the parts for the older Sailrites and maybe the newer ones will fit. https://manualmachine.com/thompson/pw301/2567151-user-manual/ kgg EDIT: Here is the file. Thompson PW-301 User Manual.pdf

Getting the tension right, is sort of like a tug of war. When the knots are on the top chances are the bobbin tension isn't correct. Basic needs: 1) Quality thread like A&E. Typically use the same size thread for the top thread and for the bobbin. 2) Quality needles like Schimetz Needles. Use 135 x17 x Needle Size for fabric and 135 x 16 x Needle Size for Leather. 3) Needle size to be correct for the size of thread selected. Needle size verses thread size chart ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) 4) Bobbin Tension needs to be correct for thread size and using the drop test method would work. Any adjustment to the bobbin tension should be done in small amounts on the bobbin case holder thread tensioner screw like 1/8 turn in or out at a time. Over tightening of this screw will bend the bobbin case holder thread tensioner and require it to be replaced. I find getting this tension right first makes it easier then you only have to worry about the top thread tension. 5) Correct thread path from the thread spool to the eye of the needle. If the thread path is incorrect you will never get consistent top tension. 6) Know the sewing limits of your machine. I think the Cobra Class 26 is very similar to that of the Juki LS-341/1341. So it should be able to sew close to 1/2" thick material but that maybe reduced depending on the toughness of the material and the thread size / needle size combination you select. A little more info would be helpful: 1) thread size 2) needle size 3) few photo's of your thread path 4) few photo's of the sewing Or Make a video, put it on Youtube and give a link. kgg

Nice explanation. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

@dikman and @DieselTech and @toxo Thank you. We all get those senior moments. kgg

The needle position is presently set to be needle down when you stop sewing. I did run this a few times and it does land in the same position every time. I have not tried having it in the up needle position. I don't have the manual so as of now I don't know how but I haven't spent anytime trying to figure it out. I know some people like this feature but for me it will be disabled / removed just like I done on the 441 clone. I have to say the speed reducer (6" to 2") is nice and adds a bit more speed control as well as adding punching power. kgg Thank both of you. kgg

This is a Techsew 2750 I picked up recently. It did need a little TLC and a good redneck oil bath but appears to be in decent overall condition. I have only ran it threw some paces. It is basically a clone of the older Juki LS-341. It does have an American made after market flatbed attachment with edge guides, drop drown guide, 750 watt servo, speed reducer, laser guide, needle positioner and a "U" shaped table. This is how it looks before I make some mods for my needs / wants / desires. The first items to go will be the needle positioner, thread stand and the flatbed attachment. The NP will be stored while I think I will sell the flatbed attachment. kgg

Fuses are meant to protect both equipment and people from electrical faults. Typically they pop when their is an overload on the motor, damaged wiring (power cord, shorted internal motor windings, electronic board failures, faulty house electrical circuit ). It is not uncommon for a fuse to blow every once in awhile for no reason due weakening from age and the number of cycles the fuse has been exposed that were close to it's limit. If you have checked the obvious external wiring and things look good save yourself the aggravation, other potential problems and just replace it with a new servo motor. kgg

This video should help you with the bobbin assembly. kgg

I agree the link to @Wizcrafts is probably the best information you can read and like @dikman said the holster puts you into the class 441 machines. Tandy's one armed bandit, TandyPro® Cowboy Outlaw, does fall into that class of machines. I really seriously looked the one armed bandits and nearly bought one but in the end decided to go with a Juki TSC-441 clone. For me the main drawback is having to pull that lever every-time to make a stitch. They do have their place just wouldn't fit my needs / wants / desires. Keep in mind there isn't one machine that will do everything well that is why a lot of us have more then one machine, patchers, flatbeds and cylinder arm, each suited to do particular types of tasks. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

Looking at the photo's and the video I am wondering if if the position finger of the bobbin holder isn't seated properly in the presser plate as shown at 0.44 of the video. kgg

The main problem with the "T" table frame and "U" cutout table top shown in the video is the table top can sag at the front right corner of the "U" cutout. I have experienced table top sag as well as machine bounce with this style of table. The machine has the least amount of support and is totally dependent on the strength of the uncut rear section of the "U" cutout. My solution with a "K" leg frame was to brace that front right corner of the "U" cutout down to the left side "K" leg base. kgg

If your machine is a true copy of the Juki LS-1341 adding the knee lift will be easy if it a copy of the Juki LS-341 then this video may help. kgg

I agree with @Wizcrafts also another possibility is that Bonded Poly is just a touch smaller then the same size Bonded Nylon and the #23 needle is meant for V138 thread. The hole the #23 needle makes is really to large for the smaller V92 thread. I would try a #20 or #21 needle also make sure you are using a needle made for leather. If I remember correctly the Singer 111W155 takes a 135 X17 X Needle Size for fabric and 135 X 16 X Needle Size for leather. A good reference chart for thread to needle size can be seen here ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). kgg