kgg

@dikman and @DieselTech and @toxo Thank you. We all get those senior moments. kgg

The needle position is presently set to be needle down when you stop sewing. I did run this a few times and it does land in the same position every time. I have not tried having it in the up needle position. I don't have the manual so as of now I don't know how but I haven't spent anytime trying to figure it out. I know some people like this feature but for me it will be disabled / removed just like I done on the 441 clone. I have to say the speed reducer (6" to 2") is nice and adds a bit more speed control as well as adding punching power. kgg Thank both of you. kgg

This is a Techsew 2750 I picked up recently. It did need a little TLC and a good redneck oil bath but appears to be in decent overall condition. I have only ran it threw some paces. It is basically a clone of the older Juki LS-341. It does have an American made after market flatbed attachment with edge guides, drop drown guide, 750 watt servo, speed reducer, laser guide, needle positioner and a "U" shaped table. This is how it looks before I make some mods for my needs / wants / desires. The first items to go will be the needle positioner, thread stand and the flatbed attachment. The NP will be stored while I think I will sell the flatbed attachment. kgg

Fuses are meant to protect both equipment and people from electrical faults. Typically they pop when their is an overload on the motor, damaged wiring (power cord, shorted internal motor windings, electronic board failures, faulty house electrical circuit ). It is not uncommon for a fuse to blow every once in awhile for no reason due weakening from age and the number of cycles the fuse has been exposed that were close to it's limit. If you have checked the obvious external wiring and things look good save yourself the aggravation, other potential problems and just replace it with a new servo motor. kgg

This video should help you with the bobbin assembly. kgg

I agree the link to @Wizcrafts is probably the best information you can read and like @dikman said the holster puts you into the class 441 machines. Tandy's one armed bandit, TandyPro® Cowboy Outlaw, does fall into that class of machines. I really seriously looked the one armed bandits and nearly bought one but in the end decided to go with a Juki TSC-441 clone. For me the main drawback is having to pull that lever every-time to make a stitch. They do have their place just wouldn't fit my needs / wants / desires. Keep in mind there isn't one machine that will do everything well that is why a lot of us have more then one machine, patchers, flatbeds and cylinder arm, each suited to do particular types of tasks. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

Looking at the photo's and the video I am wondering if if the position finger of the bobbin holder isn't seated properly in the presser plate as shown at 0.44 of the video. kgg

The main problem with the "T" table frame and "U" cutout table top shown in the video is the table top can sag at the front right corner of the "U" cutout. I have experienced table top sag as well as machine bounce with this style of table. The machine has the least amount of support and is totally dependent on the strength of the uncut rear section of the "U" cutout. My solution with a "K" leg frame was to brace that front right corner of the "U" cutout down to the left side "K" leg base. kgg

If your machine is a true copy of the Juki LS-1341 adding the knee lift will be easy if it a copy of the Juki LS-341 then this video may help. kgg

I agree with @Wizcrafts also another possibility is that Bonded Poly is just a touch smaller then the same size Bonded Nylon and the #23 needle is meant for V138 thread. The hole the #23 needle makes is really to large for the smaller V92 thread. I would try a #20 or #21 needle also make sure you are using a needle made for leather. If I remember correctly the Singer 111W155 takes a 135 X17 X Needle Size for fabric and 135 X 16 X Needle Size for leather. A good reference chart for thread to needle size can be seen here ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). kgg

I see your problem and it stems from the "T" frame leg design. IMHO those are not meant for sewing machines and are more for a craft table design. The problem as I see it is you can't put the foot pedal support brace on top of the leg base as it will raise the foot pedals up to high off the floor. The options I can think of: i) is to move the left leg either about a 12" closer to the other leg which may cause stability problems ii) move the left leg to the end of the foot pedal support brace to free up that space which will require other mods to the table top support iii) move both the "go" pedal and the "left" pedal to the left so both are to the left side of the "T" leg. This will require some modifications to the pedal linkages but would be the simplest and fastest solution. kgg

It's a Singer 196k5 which is a drop feed, high speed garment machine probably do heavier weight items like denim. Not meant for leather work. However the table's legs and other frame parts are the old style using real heavy gauge metal not the cheap stuff out of China usually found in the newer machine setups. If someone needed / wanted a new table setup the bones are there and assuming the servo motor works it could be easily modified for a cylinder bed or flatbed with a new table top. When I need a frame to modify I look for the old frames at industrial repair shops and usually get a complete frame / pedals / cross members for about $60 CAD ( ~ £35, ~$45 USD). kgg

@pyralis I did get a chance to look at some video's on the construction of leather jackets and found that the machines of choice seem to be long arm flatbed machines, leather skivers and fur / sheepskin sewing machines. The two video's I did enjoy the most were of making a leather jacket and a Bomber style sheepskin jacket. Both were from South Korea so they are using Sun Star equipment which makes sense as they are made in South Korea. They appear to be using long arm Sun Star walking foot machines which appear to have similar sewing abilities as that of a Juki DNU-1541S or a Juki LU-1508. Leather Jacket video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI29Suta2o At 10:13 shows 4 layers of leather At 12:37 shows 6 layers of leather at the corner where the zipper meets Sheepskin Bomber Jacket: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI29Suta2oA At 10:26 shows how the sleeves are attached with a fur/sheepskin sewing machine kgg

Weight of machines: i) A flatbed Juki DNU-1541S and clones. The head alone will weight approximately 28 kg or 62 lb. ii) A cylinder bed Juki LS-341 and clones. The head alone will weight approximately 37.5 kg or 83 lb. iii) A class 441 Juki TSC-441 and clones. The head alone will weight approximately 56 kg or 124 lb. Your budget for a new machine: i) Flatbed Juki DNU-1541S clone will cost about $1600 plus tax and shipping ii) Cylinder bed Juki LS-1341 clone will about $2400 plus tax and shipping iii) Cylinder bed Juki TSC-441 clone will about $3000 plus tax and shipping Depending on where you are located in some cases it would probably be better to buy a new machine. The only way you can be guaranteed that the machine you choose will work is to visit a brick and mortar store to test run various machines on a sample of your stuff with the size of thread you are planning on using. Chances are NO one machine will do the jacket properly from start to finish. I think it is going to be a combination of machines, Skiver, Cylinder bed with a flatbed attachment. Others who make jackets would be able to provide what machines would be best. kgg

The link in OP was wrong the ")" was included in the link so it doesn't work. Try https://imgur.com/a/wiAW16R . kgg

Great advice. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

The Singer 29K70 is not rare and the value depends on it functioning properly, are there missing or worn out parts, rust, overall condition, age which can be determined by the serial number, whether it has the the cast iron stand and where you are located. Like @shoepatcher noted pictures would be needed to get a better idea. kgg

That would be a good question to put to the Techsew people as well as can it use V138 in 3/8" thick veg tan. kgg

The measurement of 2.0 are you saying 2.0 mm or 2 ounce leather as there is quite a bit of difference in thickness. A good reference chart for thickness of leather ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/pages/leather-thickness ) shows: i) 2.0 mm of leather is about 5/64" to be a touch over 5 ounce leather ii) 2.0 ounce leather is only 0.78 mm which is about 1/32" So if you mean 2.0 mm thick leather you are probably going to have places in the jacket exterior that are 3 or 4 times that thickness which could mean sewing items in the high range of 5/16" thick. The high range would be just under the 3/8" rating of most upholstery class machines. Then you are planning on add the interior suede or the thicker quilted lamb and I think you are going to be over the upholstery class machines sewing ability. That would then put you into at least a Class 341 / 1341 machine which can typically sew up to 1/2" thick. Note: i) The upholstery class machines would be machines like the Juki DNU-1541S and clones or the Sailrite Fabricator which is a Singer clone of something like the Singer 111W if I'm not mistaken. ii) The Class 341/ 1341 machines which are cylinder bed machines would be like the older Juki LS-341 and clones and the newer Juki LS-1341 and clones. If I'm not mistaken the Techsew 2750 is a clone of the Juki LS-341. In my opinion a cylinder bed machine in the Class 341 / 1341 if the total thickness is below 1/2" would probably be the better bet as you can turn a cylinder arm into sort of a flatbed by installing a flatbed attachment but not the other way around. Once you are at the 1/2" mark then you are into a class 441 machine like the Juki TSC-441 and clones. Also what is your budget??? Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I am going to assume you mean the pan that sits inside the base of the machine. Some Class 341 machines have a pan while others don't. The pan is used to catch the oil drips from the shafts and bearings of the machine so they don't drip onto your table top. Some install a scrap of cloth either in the pan or if their machine didn't come with a pan on the table top to catch the oil drips. kgg

The main problem with the PFAFF's in general in Ontario is the cost of parts/repairs/accessories as they are a lot more expensive then your typical Juki and Juki clone machines. The Simard machine is probably a clone of the PFAFF. I personally stay away from PFAFF machines mainly due to associated costs. Look for signs of wear like paint worn off base, groves cut in thread guides, missing parts, clutch motor, damaged table. Does the machine look like it was rode hard and put away wet. If possible post some photo's or link to the site as there maybe some photo's that may help evaluate the machines. kgg

I would also email Coates with a photo of the spool of thread showing labels (top and bottom), the mess it left on your machine and where / who you bought it from. Here are some contact info from "PissedConsumer" site ( https://coats-group.pissedconsumer.com/customer-service.html ) Coats Group Phone Numbers and Emails Toll-Free Number: (800) 242-8095 Charlotte NC Customer Service: USA (704) 329-5946 Charlotte NC Canada +1 905 850 9200 30 McIntosh Blvd Unit 1 Concord Ontario L4K 4P1

The Consew RB5 is a flatbed machine suited primarily for flat items, think of wallets. When doing items being of circular design like bags and hats this style of machine would not be my first choice. I would suggest looking for a cylinder bed machine like a Juki LS-1341(new) or an older Juki LS-341. There are many similar clones of the Juki LS series of machines that are much more reasonably priced. To name a few examples would be the Cowboy CB341, Cobra Class 26, Techsew 2750, Kobe LS-1341. The advantage of the cylinder arm machine is that you can turn it into a flatbed for items best sewn by a flatbed by installing a simple flatbed attachment. The Consew RB5 and the 341 class of machines are rated to sew about 3/8" thick and three layers of 7 oz leather is really close to that mark as per the leather thickness chart ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/pages/leather-thickness ). Also another factor is the size of thread you want to use, the Consew RB5 as well as the Class 341/ 1341can handle V138 and some can handle V207 thread. If you are going to be sewing at or close to the max rated thickness or thicker thread then V207 of the machine rating you probably want to consider moving up to a Juki TSC 441 machine or Class 441 clone. Another option for thicker items and thicker thread are the un-motoized one armed bandits by Cowboy, Tippman and Weaver. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

I don't know if the pump can be replaced but before you sew put a few drops of oil on the necessary parts then remove the thread from the needle and run the machine for a couple of minutes at high speed to drive the oil pump. kgg