kgg

Simple answer is Yes. My simple way of determining the class of machine. If a machine uses the 794 X SIZE of system needles then it is a Class 441 where SIZE is the size of needle that is determined by the size of thread being used. In the class 441 you have the one armed bandits and the machines with 9", 16", 25", 37.5" cylinder arms. I class machines basically on what the equivalent Juki or Singer series of machines it best's represents like 29K / 1141 / 1541 / 341 / 441. For someone new to machines trying to figure out which clones have similar capabilities can be a chore. kgg

If your thread range is V138 to V346 then you are into a class 441 machine to handle the V346 thread. If you are planning on selling / repairing traps or straps in general for other people be very careful, get trained, certified and insured. It isn't just about that you can do the work or what machine can do the job it's the liability should things go south. kgg

I think you got a bum motor. I think the best solution before making changes to the hand-wheel would be to replace the servo and get that sorted out first. I would suggest looking at either a brushed servo motor something like the CSM550-1 or an electronic controlled servo motor with at least 9 coils, 12 coils would be preferred like the Sailrite workhorse or the Reliable SewQuiet 6000SM both are 12-Coil servo motors. kgg

All the Juki's and the clones like Cowboy CB-341, Cobra Class 26, Techsew 2750, KOBE LS-1341 to name a few in the 341 / 1341 class cylinder arm machines all have the hand-wheel orientated so the belt is closest to end of the machine and main bearing. When you move up to the Juki TSC-441 and the clones like Cowboy 4500, Cobra Class 4, Techsew 5100, KOBE TSC-441 to name a few they have their hand-wheels orientated with the belt on the outside. A lot of the Singers like the 111W 155 had their hand-wheel orientated with the belt on the outside while the Singer 212 the hand-wheel is orientated with the belt on the inside. Pfaff also had a mix the 1245 had the belt on the inside while the 145 and 545 had it on the outside. I guess it comes down to how each class of machine is designed and how the "all alluring" belt cover is supposed to be installed. I am surprised as I don't know of any manufacturer / dealer that ships the machine with the hand-wheel installed on the machine over on this side of the pond. You should have your brother bring leather needles along in the size for the thread you are planning on using. Needles for the Juki and clone 341 / 1341 use 135 X 16 X SIZE for leather and 135 X 17 X SIZE for fabric. Here is a good link for needle size vs thread size. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

The jerk is probably from the minimum startup speed of the motor you are using. Yes, increasing the size of the hand-wheel will help with slowing the machine and increase torque. However it will not eliminate the startup jerk. I think you would be better installing a proper speed reducer pulley and leaving the existing hand-wheel. You will get better speed reduction, increased torque and it will help to reduce / smooth out the startup jerk. kgg

What size of thread with what size of needle are you using? Also a few photo's of how you have your machine threaded maybe of some help. kgg

Any of the accessories that will fit a Juki LS-341 or LS-1341 should fit for parts I would reference the Juki LS-341 numbers. The manuals for the Juki LS-341 would be the one's I would use and have attached them as pdf's. I did notice you have the hand-wheel installed backwards, may or may not make any difference. I do like the back drop of hides in the background. kgg 341 engineer manual.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Engineers_Manual.pdf Juki_LS-341N_Instruction_Manual.pdf

Here is a link to the Juki site for the LS-1340 series machines. https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/admin/pdata/filedata/332/ls1340.pdf kgg

My understanding is those machines are domestic and embroidery machines. kgg

I use the cheap Chinese manual press machine like ( https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0771NFSLZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details ) at $56 CAD plus tax delivered ( $40 USD). They are cheap but do a decent job and the dies and hole punches are cheap, delivered at $10 -$12 CAD ($7 -$9 USD) if bought off places like Aliexpress. The downside to the lever handle presses particularly the ones with the lever at the rear is you only got one hand free to handle the item as the other one is used to operate the lever. That is where a kick press shines. I am now in the process of doing a proper press table and converting my two cheap hand presses to operate as kick presses. One to be used as a punch and the other as a setter. kgg

The reason I didn't mention the Juki LS-2342 line is i) the price is about $7,500 US which would be over the OP budget and ii) they have the built in drive motor, which I'm not a fawn lover of. If the motor fails you would be tied too Juki for a replacement where as on a regular drive train it would be a quick, fairly inexpensive repair from any number of motor suppliers. kgg

To determine if it is a problem remove both presser feet and see if the feel changes significantly. If it does, chances are that the feed dog is set to high above the needle plate or the presser foot is set to low. Check your manual and see how high it should be above the needle plate at it's highest point of travel. I would guess probably about 1mm. If no change, then remove the front cover too check and see what is binding / rubbing inside and oil the hell out off all the parts while cycling the machine by the hand-wheel. Also contact the dealer if this is a new machine. If this isn't something simple definitely contact the seller and if was a Amazon purchase contact them for a return as it was probably a "fresh off the boat" machine with no pre-delivery done. kgg

I am assuming you mean the original sized hand-wheel that came on the machine. This video should help with the removal and insulation: kgg

It is usually difficult to find the information particularly on the cheaper no name Chinese ones. Sometimes the Chinese one's will have a picture showing the internal coils so you can do a count otherwise I would assume 6 coils. The servo motors like the SewQuiet 6000SM 12-Coil Servomotor and the Sailrite Workhorse Servo Motor advertise that their motors have 12 coils. The thread should be properly threaded through the post first. In the top hole, half twist around the post so the thread enters the next lower hole on the backside. The thread wrap looks like an "S" on the post. kgg

Cute question. kgg

The Singer 29K-4 should be able to handle needles from #11 to #23 so it can handle thread up to V138 depending on the thickness of the leather. The needle plate will have marked holes that will accomdate the smaller and larger needle sizes. The machine maybe able to handle up to 1/4" thickness depending on it's condition but be aware as the thickness of the leather being sewn increases the switch length will decrease. Also the amount of thread you are going to get on that tiny bobbin is going to be small and will be less as the thread size increases. Thread size vs needle size can be found at: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html I have attached a pdf of the manual kgg 294.pdf

With that budget I would suggest either Juki probably a LS-1341 and Durkopp Adler equivalent. Both are excellent brand name machines but I would go with the Juki machines if I were to invest in only one machine myself. I would suggest before buying one machine: i) Determine how thick the leather including the seams you are planning on sewing. The Class 341 machines will handle about 7/16" max with V138 thread. If you are constantly pushing that thickness limit you probably would be better off going to with a Class 441 and your budget is going to be about 2K low for a brand name machine. ii) Maybe look at two machines rather then putting all your money into one machine. If the majority of your items are best done on a flatbed invest in something like a Juki DN-1541S (about $2000) or Juki LU-1508 ($3000) and get a clone Class 341 (about $2400) or Class 441 (about $3000) machine. Remember NO one machine will best do everything. With such a large investment go to a couple dealers even if means a road trip and test drive various machines with a sample of your items in the size of thread you want to use. Get a machine or machines that meets your needs and budget from a company that you feel will provide good after sale service. How thick of thread are you planning on using? kgg

I would call the seller and get them to email you a copy of the manuals, assembly, parts, maintenance, etc as you will need them later on. kgg Table Assembly:

The way I look at it is the climate has been constantly changing in a constant state of flux through the various warming and cooling cycles since it was somehow created. To make any substantial changes we would have to reset the global population lifestyle to that of the cavemen. Can't see that happening anytime soon. I still wonder who is getting rich off the fear mongering climate change kick. The climate of some sort will be around as long as I'm going to be kicking but it might be nice to be able to plant a pineapple tree in the backyard up here in Canada. kgg

If I remember correctly about 20 years ago weren't all the "experts" saying we were headed for another Ice age. That scare didn't work so they are onto another be afraid. To help reduce the CO2 the main contributors would need to reduce their emissions, China, US and India. However that is going to come at a price of manufacturing all items for the worlds population. Taxing the average joe with carbon taxes isn't going to do anything worth while. People will still need food, transportation, housing, etc. kgg

I am not familiar with D/E thread. Could you post who the manufacturer is or a link to the thread. Typically a 29 K clone would use a system 135 X 16 needle or be converted accept the 135 X 16 for leather work. Typically they are rated for V46 to V138 thread with needles sizes up to #22. A good link for thread size to needle size can be found at https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg

And they wonder why people buy imported stuff from not so environmentally protective countries. What a shame. kgg

I would have sent it back. kgg

The machine appears to be in good shape. I think the first ones only had a single top thread tensioning system and was changed to a double when they changed the casing. A 550 watt brushed servo should work quite nicely but for the price difference between the 550 watt and the 750 watt brushless servo motors I would go with the 750 watt with at least 9 internal coils, 12 coils would be better. What I did notice in the photo is the top thread doesn't go through the top thread guide pin as it should before the horizontal multi hole tension guide. The angle is way too steep, as close to horizontal as possible with the top hole of the top thread guide pin. kgg

The main difference as far as I am concerned and aware of are: i) the DSC 245 is only rated to handle V69 thread while the LS-1341 is rated for V138 ii) the DSC 245 has a small bobbin and to get the same large bobbin the LS 1341 has you need to move up to the DSC 246 iii) the DSC 245 has a built in synchonizor for binding iv) the DSC 245 has a much short alternating movement then the LS 1341 Juki's are a top notch brand name often copied by others and you well get quality but it is going to be considerably more costly then a clone machine. There are lot of machines available from Cowboy and Cobra to name a couple. All I can say is get a machine that meets your needs and budget from a company that you feel will provide good after sale service. To better narrow down a machine that may work for your items how thick is the total thickness you are going to be sewing including where any seams are? kgg