kgg

The circled part in photo #2. kgg

I would send back the motor for a refund as the cover has damaged the bearing face as can be seen in your photo's. I would not accept a replacement as there is a problem with their cover mold and you are more then likely just going to have the same problem. The problem with keeping that motor is it will never run true and is going to fail, when who knows. kgg

It's the simple stuff that can get you everytime. kgg

A good source for needles and thread I find would be Wawak.com and I prefer the Schmetz Needles whether for fabric or leather. A good article with a photo's of some of the various needle points and what your stitching will look like can be found at https://www.sailrite.com/leather-sewing-machine-needle-types I would recommend changing your needle frequently. Needles and thread are least expensive part of a project. I change my needle after 8 hours of use, when I think it is getting dull, having a stitching problem, been a while since I used the machine last, before starting a new project which ever comes first. kgg

You can probably buy it off one of the reservations just like smokes and gas. kgg

I am not familiar with the bonded thread but BNT69 indicates it is Bonded Nylon Thread in size V69 thread which is the same as Tex 70. The polyester thread size has do with how much weight there is in 1000 meters and in this case 75 grams. Some things to remember: i) Buy good quality thread made in North America like A&E thread (made in Canada and USA) but stay away from Chinese made non name thread particularly the 8 oz spools. ii) Items that are going to be exposed to the outdoors or to bleach Bonded Polyester Thread will stand up better then Bonded Nylon thread. iii) The V69 (Tex 70) thread is the "strong thread" is the thickest thread that the domestic sewing machines can handle and is really the bottom end size / strength wise used in industrial sewing machines. Some industrial sewing machines really don't like trying to use V69. Your machines is rated to V69 to V138 thread and probably would prefer V92 as the smallest size of thread. iv) The strength of V69 is 11 lb, V92 is 14.5 lb, V138 is 22 lb v) When sewing leather with your machine use 135 X 16 with the correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using (leather needles cut through the fibers of leather) and 135 X 17 for fabric with the correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using (fabric needles push apart the fibers of fabric). vi) A good reference chart for thread size to needle size can be found at: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html vii) Your machine should be able to sew close to 3/8" of material under the presser foot depending on the toughness of the material. viii) If your machine came with a clutch motor change it out with a servo motor to get greatly improved sewing speed control. kgg

Growing up the guys of the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary who walked a bet use to carry a Billy Knocker as well as a slap. The dirt bags use to make what we called Black Jacks by running 3/8 chain through a 4 inch length of copper pipe that was filled with lead and attaching it to another 4 inch of copper pipe also lead filled to form a "T". The Black Jacks could be used as a slap or held in the palm the same way a roll pennies could be used. I don't know which I would rather be on the receiving end, one good strike and it's lights out. We that said if you are defending oneself I still think it would be better to be judged by twelve then carried by six. kgg

There is a fair bit of info here on the site for the Econosew machines just type in "Econosew" in the search box and go down through some of the posts. Here is an example of what one user found with their Econosew 1541S bobbin case / hook assembly. kgg

These depend on the laws of the Country/ State or Province and maybe illegal no matter how they are dressed up to look like or function as something else. Check your laws before carrying one. The best is an improvised weapon like a good old fashion H2 pencil. kgg

That should leave a reminder particularly if the boot had a metal heel plate. kgg

Thank you. I don't know of any but it shouldn't be that hard to make something decent up. Drop me a PM. kgg

Should be fairly simple to design and print one for your press. kgg

Thank you. You known no machine is complete without a 3D printed accessory. Thank you. What kind of press did you have? kgg

The common cheap Chinese hand presses ($60 CAD delivered) are normally used for installing cap rivets, button snaps and grommets. I hate a machine that basically does one function that isn't that convenient to use. So here is what I have attempted to do. i) improve the hand press operation by adding a work surface that is level with the steel block to provide a larger flat work surface, 4" (101mm) verses the little over 3/4" steel block surface. ii) add more stability to the hand punch press ii) add an adjustable straight edge fence to accommodate items up to 4" (101mm)wide iii) add interchangeable hole punch blocks that would replace the steel block when hole punching iv) install hole punches for punching holes Photo 1 is of a typical hand press Photo 2 shows how little work area and how a piece of 3 oz veg tan rests on the steel block. Photo 3 shows the same machine with my work area and adjustable fence installed. Tightening of the steel block screw is accessed through a hole in the support foot. Photo 4 shows how the piece of 3 oz veg tan now rests on the work surface with the same steel block. Photo 5 shows the hand press setup to hole punch with a 4mm hole punch installed, the steel block removed and a smooth surface block installed Photo 6 shows the hand press with 3 oz veg tan Photo 7 shows the 4 mm hole punched in the 3 oz veg tan Any and all comments are always welcomed. kgg

I know what you mean about what you mean about being nervous with one printer as sometimes stuff happens. When my Prusa MK3 decided to pack it in on an overnight print that left us with the Prusa MK3 Bear while we waited and waited and waited for the new Prusia core XY to arrive. The new Prusia was going to be expensive $5000 + CAD by the time we would get it versus $2200 CAD to the door for the Bambu. We had good service from the Prusia printers but they have I think fallen behind in both the customer service and the tech end while commanding a premium price. The Prusa MK3 Bear is now the backup if needed. The time, at least for us, of getting some spare parts (belt, head,etc) just like the printer took three days. Doing mechanical adjustments or replacement is so simple in comparison to Prusia. This to gave me some concern but the Bambu P1P and the X1 Carbon are more like your fridge or toaster rather then the tinker machines of say just three years ago which required a fair bit of tweaking if you changed something. The P1P is the cheaper version of the X1 with a different controller, probably less capable and cheaper. A couple of features that I thought would be useless or not really necessary: i) the camera inside the cabinet. Who really needs see it printing a part? It turned out to be a nice feature as we could remotely see what it was doing during a recent tweaking session. The the printer is one part of the house and the computer is in another part. ii) the wifi connection. We were use to doing the design, slicing then transferring the file to a card and bringing the card to the printer. Now do the design, slice and send it to the printer. Buy the time we get to the printer it is warming the plate up to temperature and doing it's self checks. Should you decide to go with a Bambu P1P or X1 Carbon I would suggest using the ORCA slicer instead of the Bambu slicer as the ORCA has more fine grain tuning, better calibrations options and offers portable install option. kgg

It does come to a point where the cost to repair is just not feasible either because of time or cost. The repairs seem to become more of a stop gap but more importantly those new parts put extra stress on the old parts which causes them to fail in a short period of time. This time I went with a Bambu X1 Carbon with the AMS system. I've only had it about two weeks and have gone through about six 2kg spools. So far it is really working out nice. Setup was simple say an hour to get decent prints and then about six hours of tuning the software to get what I like. The Bambu has cut print times down considerably, 16 hour bed slinger prints now take about 5 hours in the standard speed mode. I probably could get down to 3 using the ludacris speed mode. The most cost effective way (time and material ) to produce @RockyAussie molds is with 3D printing and design changes can be made on the fly as needed. The beauty is that you set the 3D printer to print and walk away to do other things. Once the print is done, remove the print and hit start again. With the number and size of parts of his design he can do at least one complete mold and possibly two in one print run. Also the molds can be printing while he goes to have a bite to eat or sleeps. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

Have you checked the bobbin winder? I think your problem lies with the operation or how you are operating the bobbin winder and not related to the speed of the servo motor. The speed of winding your bobbin depends on the speed that the pulley belt from the motor to the hand-wheel rotates. The belt turns the wheel on the winder by friction when you push the winder lever forward and the wheel is pushed up against the pulley belt from the motor to the hand-wheel. If you have a belt guard installed to cover the bobbin winder and the pulley belt remove it. Check and see if the winder wheel is slipping or otherwise not engaged properly when you want to wind a bobbin. Also when winding a bobbin first remove the thread from the needle and raise the presser foot up. If you are winding a bobbin as you sew the winding of the bobbin is going to depend on how fast you sew. kgg

I would drop @RockyAussie a PM (private email). The problem you have is that you are right on the crossover point both in thread size and thickness of material. As far as doing curtains I am going to say it would be easier to do on a 341 class machine a feat to do on a 441 machine. The needles of the class 441 are going to be a lot thicker then the 135X17 needles. I think neither machine would be the right machine for a curtain type project. I would suggest picking up an old Singer Class 15 machine or a Juki 1181N walking foot machine for those types of projects. The problem with the Class 341, typically rated to sew 3/8" thick stuff, as I see it is that some clones suggest they can use V207 thread for both top and in the bobbin whereas Juki rates their machine (LS-341old / LS-1341 new) to sew with V138 at max thickness for top and bobbin thread. So if you want to use greater then V207 in thick items you need to move up to the Class 441 machines which use the much thicker 7x3 or 794 needles. Your problem then becomes do you get a stub nose cylinder arm 10.5" CB3200 typically rated to sew 1/2" thick stuff, a stub nose cylinder arm 9" CB3500 typically rated to sew 7/8" thick stuff or a standard cylinder arm 16" CB4500 typically rated to sew 7/8" thick stuff. The cost difference between those machines: i) CB3200 at $2200 USD, ii) CB3500 at $2700 USD, iii) CB4500 at $3000 USD. iv) CB341 will run about $2400 USD. All I can say is If you need or want a Class 441 machine for whatever reason and can afford it opt for the standard 16" cylinder arm. Before I bought my Class 441 I even looked at the one armed bandits but quickly decided they weren't for me. When I bought my Class 441 and I have a Class 341 as well I opted for the standard 16" cylinder arm. Also don't forget to take into account the style of table that would suit your typical sewing position, seating versus standing. kgg

What are you planning on sewing and with what size of thread? kgg

Contact a Tandy Store there is one in Barrie. Phone Number (705) 728-6501 ( https://tandyleather.ca/collections/sewing-machines/products/cobra-class-26 ) Tandy Leather Barrie-705 237 Mapleview Drive East #8 Barrie ON L4N 0W5 Canada Also there are two other clone options of the Juki LS 1341 besides the Cobra Class 26 available in Ontario, the KOBE LS-1341 and the Techsew 2750 kgg

From the information I have seen a Brushless servo will have anywhere from 5 percent to 15 percent advantage of converting electrical power to mechanical power over the Brushed servo motor. The big but to this has a lot to do with how many coils the brushless servo motor was constructed with and particularly how good the box of electronic controls are. The performance advantage of a brushless servo motor when using a speed reducer probably will be unnoticeable. From a durability point when comparing quality built motors will probably the same. However the brush motors with the manual speed knob are much simpler to track problems which typically means replacing or cleaning the motors brushes. When the electronics and some brushed servo motors did have some electronics give problems and particularly the brushless it is probably cheaper just to replace the whole unit. I feel the only reason the brushless servo motors are becoming more available is that they are considerably cheaper to manufacture. kgg

I would pull some top thread through from the spool by hand to see if I could determine at what guide or tension disc is giving the problem. It could be from over oiling or rust or just a build up of old crude from use. Then I would do the same thing with the bobbin thread. Once you figure out the location then you can concentrate on cleaning or replacing that part. If it is from the bobbin area and you are using Aluminum bobbins replace it with a steel bobbin as Aluminum can discolor thread if they are old or of poor construction. kgg

Yes according to the specs the Reliable and the Sailrite motors appear to be clones of one and another with both being 12 coil designs. There is more at play here when trying to find the min startup speed of the motor. You need to know the size of the small pulley on the end of the motor and the size of the hand-wheel pulley on the sewing machine. So finding someone with the exact same setup and an rpm digital tachometer maybe difficult. Since you can measure the size of your hand-wheel all then left is to determine the size of the small pulley on the motors and their speed range. Once you know those parameters you can use a pulley calculator to determine what to expect on your machine whether it is a brush or brushless servo motor. What I found is that Reliable does not list the speed range but I'm assuming it to be like the Sailrite Workhorse. They say " which let you set your top stitching speed while maintaining variable speed control. Variable maximum speed settings range from 400-3600 stitches per minute. " which does differ from the max rpm of the motor being rated at 4500 rpm. So from that the motors low start up speed is 400 rpm. Sailrite lists two pulleys a Black one and Silver one with the Black one being a clogged 33mm and the Silver being a V-belt 60mm. These specs are from their webpage ( https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Workhorse-Servo-Motor-110V ) The specs for the Consew I could not find. My experience with a digital servo motor with a speed range of 500 - 5000 rpm on a 800 watt, 9 coil and with no reducer pulley are Calculated top speed of the hand-wheel pulley should come in at 156 rpm using a 160 mm hand-wheel pulley size, a 50 mm motor pulley and with the motor speed set to the minimum speed of 500 rpm's. This particular servo motor is a 800 watt brushless 9 coil servo motor with a speed range of 500 to 5000 rpm's. Measured pulley and hand-wheel sizes were. i) The hand-wheel pulley measured out to be 159mm. ii) The small pulley at the motor measured out at 49mm. Measured results with 500 rpm's showing on the controller screen i) with the foot pedal fully depressed the rpm's with my digital tachometer showed 154.5 rpm's with no material under the needle ii) with the foot pedal feathered to get the minimum hand-wheel pulley speed the digital tachometer showed a low rpm reading of 61 rpm's with no material under the needle. From that I can assume a no load ramp up speed of 61 rpm's. Hope this helps, kgg

Getting nice cutouts or overhangs when 3D printing can be a chore particularly with bed slingers or single head core XY machines without an Automatic Material System (AMS). The trick to remember is some filaments will not stick / bond together with other filament types. If you are using i) PLA use PETg in those sections ii) PETg use PLA. Where it will have to change from one type to the other there is no need to do all the support in the opposite filament type. All you need is 2-3 'top' layers in the opposite type. Just enough so it pops off nicely and gives a nice finish to the 'bridge' area. Obviously, if you are putting a support that does not go from plate to the part (say in a 'window' on a part you are printing) you will need to make the bottom 3 layers also be the opposite type. This old school trick can be done with a bed slinger but you will have to babysit it and manually change / drain the filament in the head on every filament change. With a Automatic Material System (AMS) system it just does the necessary filament changes for you. An example is that I wanted a particular side of a edge guide for the right side of the needle to be printed face down on the plate so the side that would have material rubbing against it was super slick. That meant the over hang would be nearly over 30mm from one side to another, unsupported. I was using 3d850 so I used PETg to fill that area and when the print was finished it just popped off leaving a nice crisp cutout. The first photo shows the side that was face down on 3D plate to give that nice slick 3D finish. The second photo shows the 4.25 mm deep cutout with the 30mm bridge. The third photo shows the backside of the edge guide as it sits on the table top. kgg