kgg

If you have to buy a vacuum I would consider: These would be my choices on this side of the pond. i) Small Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum 10L at $70 from Canadian Tire ( https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/maximum-vkd811sw-5-5-peak-hp-stainless-steel-wet-dry-shop-vacuum-with-hose-and-accessories-30-l-0540252p.html?rq=vaccum+cleaner ) ii) Compact Lightweight Bagless Corded Canister Vacuum at $87 from Canadian Tire ( https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/bissell-aeroswift-compact-lightweight-bagless-corded-canister-vacuum-cleaner-0438173p.html?rq=vaccum+cleaner ) Between the two choices the quieter setup would be the canister vacuum. I would mount a Power Bar to the bottom of the table so the power switch is close to the front edge of the table. Then plug both the skiver and the vacuum into it. With both the Shiver and vacuum power switches in the "ON" once you flip the power bar switch both will come "ON" or "OFF" at once. Cost once again from Canadian Tire for about $9. So for about $80 CAD (45 GDP) for a shop vac setup or $96 CAD ( 54 GDP ) you would have a simple setup. kgg

Awfully complicated setup with compressor lines / gauges. Why not just hook a domestic or small shop vac to the end of the hose already going to the bottom of the skiver table? kgg

I just read the original post and answered my own question. kgg

Your guess is good as mine. Beside the obvious incorrect part and setup the overall condition for that era of machine isn't to bad. That however depends on how much the seller is asking. The frame is a excellent old real steel "K" frame, the motor needs to be replaced with a servo motor for better speed control and the noise factor which will cost about $200 CAD. I would consider replacing / upgrading the table top just for looks the table top. The real tell will be when you see the machine, check for slop, missing / broken parts, condition of main drive belt (worn out / dry rot) and rust on the internal parts. How much are they asking for the machine??? kgg

You may want to check to see if you choose: i) the Techsew machine is there any US duty fees / brokerage fees to be added to the cost when importing it into the US?? ii) the Atlas Levy machine is there any State or State to State taxes?? I would call both vendors to see which one meets your needs and who you feel is going to give you the best customer service. If the dollars are the driving factor you may want to consider importing one from Taiwan or China directly. kgg

Nicely done. kgg

Maybe something to try: i) Check to see if the presser feet are properly set: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGKAtLjppnc ii) reset the feed dog to the Juki LS-1341 spec. I think the nose of the Techsew is that of LS-1341 not the LS-1342 ( http://baltorfina.lt/wp-content/uploads/katalogas/juki-iranga/pdf/LS-1340_en.pdf ) I am assuming it was a typo, O.6mm. iii) buy a smooth presser foot example would be ( https://sewinggold.com/product/juki-ls-1341-smooth-feed-dog-for-leather/?srsltid=AfmBOoq6yRWm-JtSXDLyQhiSR5tLF7NnyJpPIZ9ji1by1g7qMFut4SiH ) or fill the teeth of the old one and grind smooth with JB weld or grind the teeth off and reset the height. iv) try a Smooth Bottom Welt Foot similar to ( https://www.amazon.ca/KP-19160-Walking-Compatible-Replacement-Brother/dp/B095BWH832/ref=asc_df_B095BWH832/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=706835590232&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5201337836443856463&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002376&hvtargid=pla-1952777302750&psc=1&mcid=9bb67bf3649938d7a1b7d55966d41309&gad_source=1 ) v) Download the Juki manual ( https://semsi.com.mx/Manuales/JUKI/LS-1340&42-7EM01_e.pdf ) kgg

It should definitely cut down on your stitching time and should be able to sew up to 3/4" thick leather. The downside is the thread size is probably going to be smaller then what you are use to. It will take up to V415 thread which is about .7 mm thick thread. The price is about 1/3 that of the cheapest new Boss at $999USD so if it sews I think it would be a decent purchase. If it doesn't fit your needs you could easily get your money back. kgg

Nicely done. That pulley combination should knock the speed down by 75%. kgg

Appears part #d1454-055-ba0 the upper feed spring rod assembly is missing or has been modified. A quick search shows that part cost ranges from $25 to $125. Do you have anymore photo's / advert / video of the machine to see what else is missing, overall condition and what type of motor it has, clutch or servo????? kgg

Excellent find.What I have found with the Fiebings Bridle when applied by hand using a cloth / brush / Wool Dauber I always got uneven dying appearance. I now just through it in a flat pan so the item gets dyed in one shot. Probably just me. kgg

Totally agree. I think you should have a look at this discussion as it will give you some insight on the CB3200. If you are looking at the CB3200 for sewing capacity with heavier thread you would probably be better off looking for a Juki TSC441 clone like the Cowboy 4500. What are you planning on sewing with what size of thread keeping in mind what you want to sew in the future??? Knowing those things maybe the CB3200 maybe the right machine, maybe a Class 1341 would be a better option or jump right to the Class 441. kgg

The machine looks in good condition. It would be nice to know what was rebuilt on the machine. The price up here in Ontario, Canada for a used Juki LS-1341 would be in USD about $1200 USD to $1500 USD. An example of a Juki LS-1341 from a vendor in Toronto who does ship: https://dixietailoringsupply.com/product/juki-ls-1341-used/ kgg

You didn't say what part of the US you are located as prices can vary a lot depending on your location, the overall condition of the machine and whether it was used in a commercial environment. As a note you could probably get a clone LS-1341 for about the same price or less then what you would pay for good used Juki LS-1341. kgg

I couldn't find be it a brief search much information about their thread or even where it is made or how makes it for them. kgg

I normally use A&E Bonded Nylon Thread and today I finally got around to sewing a dog lead. The width of the leather lead is 3/4 " and is made up of 2 layers of 6.5 oz chrome tan leather glue back to back that way it has a nice finish on both sides. I didn't have the matching brownish color thread in V138 (Tex 135). I probably could have gotten two 1 lb spools (1 for top thread and 1 for bobbin winding) from A&E however I decided to go based on cost to go with two 8oz spools of V138 (Tex 135) from Tandy Leather which was thread from the Leather Machine Company. The label on the bottom of the 8 oz spools indicated V138 (Tex 135) Bonded Nylon. I threaded the Techsew 2750 Pro up, new project means new needle (Schmetz #23), new bobbin of thread and adjusted bobbin tension. Ready to go, pedal to the metal. Made the rookie mistake of not doing a test piece run. Top tension was way off, top looked sorta OK but the bobbin thread wasn't a birds nest but nowhere being pulled up. What did drive me nuts was the needle positioner as in every-time I stopped the needle went to the down position. If I was keeping the Techsew 2750 Pro I would remove the needle positioner like I have done on the TSC441 clone. My impression of this thread is (not good or bad just it's different then what I'm use to): i) feels soft and acts more like Bonded Polyester ii) requires a lot more top tension then the A&E bonded nylon Next week I am planning on testing a sample of the V138 (Tex 135) Bonded Polyester from NEW-STITCH on a leather belt constructed the same way as the dog lead, double 6.5 oz chrome tan. I just received the thread yesterday from NEW-STITCH. Any thoughts / your experience?? kgg

A couple of photo's would help. Start with the simple stuff first: i) motor plugged in and turned on. ii) Motor doesn't spin maybe a blown fuse. iii) Motor spins belt doesn't retension belt. kgg

Ain't getting old wonderful grand. kgg

I'll blame that on having a seniors moment. kgg

The best one to answer the conversion to needle system 328 needles and possible supply of 794 LR needles in the smaller sizes would be @CowboyBob. You should drop him a note. kgg

Yes you will not only have to make the needle bar adjustment but also a timing adjustment and a hook to needle adjustment. If you use a different diameter needle then it was designed for then the needle will sit more to the left of the hook and if the diameter varies by size like @Constabulary has mentioned then you maybe constantly doing hook to needle timing adjustments. You are looking for 120/130/140 needles which equates to using V92 thread. Why not save all the fooling around with converting to a different needle system and convert to using a larger thread size, V138? The cost of a 10 pack from the thread exchange for 794 size 160 LR point is $12.99 (~13 cents each). The cost of a 10 pack from the thread exchange for 328 size 140 LR point is $11.29 (~11.3 cents each). For me the less then the two cent saving would not be worth the associated conversion headache. kgg

Have you checked to see how much slop there is on the bobbin / hook shaft. If the needle is slightly delayed due trying to punch through too thick a material with too small a needle for the thread being used. Then combine those with any slop due to wear and tear of the machine then hook could be striking the needle or the needle could be hitting the bobbin case or if the needle is being buckled the needle probably will break. Personally I think you are using the wrong class of machine and just asking to much from a domestic sewing machine. The Singer 15-91 was meant to sew Fabric not leather. Two layers of 5 to 6 oz for a total of 12 oz leather which is roughly about 1/4" thick ( https://www.leffler.com.au/leather-thickness-conversion-chart/ ). You should read this article about what machine you need to sew leather consistently at that thickness. kgg

Here is a good video that should help: kgg

Changing to servo motor may give you enough slow sewing control. If not add a speed reducer pulley as finding a larger hand-wheel probably is going to be difficult. kgg

What needle system are you using, 34, 134, 134-35 ??? (reference: https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needle-systems-pfaff-8-to-143-U-12#Models_34_to_70). You could also try and raise the needle bar up. The simplest way would be to leave the existing pulley alone and install a speed reducer pulley. kgg