kgg

You could use 3D printed stamps or metal stamps however if this a one of project like @Bert03241 has suggested you would be better off hiring someone or a company to make the stamps. By the time you invest in equipment, learning a design program and the time of doing a prototype it wouldn't be cost effective. The main problem is going to be dealing with the client and what they want / expect the logo to look like on the items (straight impression, burned in, colored with dye or foil, etc). If they already have a logo suggest that they go to whoever did the logo and get them to supply the stamp or stamps if they want different sizes and you just take care of the actual stamping. If they just have a hard copy of the logo get someone to convert it into a electronic file and ask for prices from the various embossing / stamp companies / individuals on the net. @fredkhas made a couple of good suggestions. kgg

I will only comment on machines as I am not familiar enough on the linen thread to comment. a) There are concurrently three one armed bandit machines available: i) Tippmann Boss ( https://tippmannindustrial.com/tippmann-boss-leather-sewing-machine/ ) at about $1000 USD plus shipping and it can according to the spec handle up to V415 thread and with a max sewing thickness of 3/4". ii) Cowboy Outlaw ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cowboy-outlaw.html ) at about $1395 USD plus shipping and it can according to the spec handle up to V346 and possibly V415 thread and with a max sewing thickness of 5/8". iii) Master Tool Cub ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/collections/cub-manual-leather-sewing-machine/products/master-tool-cub-manual-leather-sewing-machine-aluminum ) at about $1999 USD plus shipping and it can according to the spec handle up to V346 thread and with a max sewing thickness of 3/4". b) There are a lot of class 441 clone machines available between the $3000 and $4000 price range like the Cowboy 4500 (7/8" max sewing thickness with V415), Cobra Class 4 ( 7/8" max sewing thickness with V415) to name a couple. Most clone machines either come with a wax pot or it can be purchased separately. c) You mentioned are planning on sewing several layer so you would be able to use up to three layers of 10-12 oz leather in the above machines but not four. The thing to remember is 10 to 12 oz leather is going to be in the range of approximately 5/32" to 1/4" in thickness ( https://www.leffler.com.au/leather-thickness-conversion-chart/ ). As far as recommending a machine choose one that meets your needs and budget from a company that you feel will provide good after sale service and if possible test drive various machines with your items. kgg

Nice job on the boxer head study. The tray is a nice addition for those that roll their own or use a pipe. I gave up smoking cigs, pipe and chewing tobacco about 5 or so years ago after 50 good years of indulging. I converted to vaping not for health reasons just a 4 pack a day habit was getting a little expensive. kgg

I would buy presser feet and a feed dog to fill with JB weld. First I would suggest two things: i) if the feed dog is leaving unwanted marks check the height the feed dog is above the needle plate. It maybe to high and need adjustment. ii) if the presser foot is causing the unwanted marks try reducing the presser foot tension. kgg

My understanding is that i) the Juki 563 and the Consew 206RB, that you have, take the same presser feet which are the same as those that fit the Singer 111G, 111W and 211W ii) According to the link you provided for the smooth presser foot they are supposed to fit the Singer 111W. iii) the Sailrite Fabricator is a clone of the Singer 111W. iv) The Sailrite portable walking foot machines have specialized presser feet that only fit the Sailrite and clone portable walking machines and don't fit any industrial sewing machine. The price for those feet from Sailrite are expensive at $49.95 USD ( $68 ) and the style reminds me of those that fit the PFAFF 1245 or the Alder 669 as how the center presser foot tightens on from the left side. I wouldn't bother purchasing them as I would just buy a cheap set off Aliexpress for less then $3.50 USD ( $5 CAD ) and fill the teeth with JB weld. But that is just me. kgg

There a lot of clones of all the Juki models but a lot of people seemed to be pleased with the Consew 206 RB-5. kgg

Here is the manual for the Singer Class 7 and should answer your questions. Also here is a link a cross reference of needle size to thread size ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) class_7_one_needle_lock_stitch.pdf

I think you maybe disappointed with that machine. That machine appears to be: i) sort of a Juki DU-1181n clone, ii) just a walking foot (presser foot , feed dog) not a compound feed (needle, presser foot, feed dog), iii) can handle up to 1/4" max thickness, iv) limited to small max thread size of V92 (one size up from domestic thread), v) can handle a max needle size of 135 X 16 size #22 (140 metric), vi) smaller bobbin then Juki du-1181n vii) low presser foot lift of 10mm viii) Weaver rates this machine as a LIGHT duty machine. I own a Juki DU-1181N and it is a light duty walking foot machine made more for fabric. I think you really need at least a Juki DNU-1541S or clone if you want to do belts and knife sheaths. kgg

In my opinion both those machines you listed are upholstery class machines with one being a cylinder arm machine (the Cobra) and the other a flatbed machine. Neither will do the job properly if at all as both are rated for less then what thickness you want to sew. That leaves you needing the punching power of a class 441 machine. If you want a manual machine (one arm bandit) you will need a machine like the Tippmann Bose, Cowboy Outlaw or the Weaver Cub. If want a motorized class 441 you will need something like the short arm Cowboy 3200 or the short arm Cobra Class 3. What is your budget????? kgg

If it is a Singer don't be surprised at not finding a tap as Singer and some Juki's had their own specific custom thread. kgg

The machine head is going to be heavy expect it to be in the 110 + pounds range. You will need the second set of hands for lifting or moving it. I would: i) use your truck bed for the pedestal stand down laying it on it's side on a piece of thick styrofoam covered with some heavy moving blankets and strapped / tied down. ii) the head is going to be nose heavy and definitely well want to fall forward nose first. So I think the best way to transport it is with it strapped down securely on it's side in the cab on the seat or strapped securely in place stood up in the cab with the nose supported with styrofoam. Best of luck, kgg

The circled part in photo #2. kgg

I would send back the motor for a refund as the cover has damaged the bearing face as can be seen in your photo's. I would not accept a replacement as there is a problem with their cover mold and you are more then likely just going to have the same problem. The problem with keeping that motor is it will never run true and is going to fail, when who knows. kgg

It's the simple stuff that can get you everytime. kgg

A good source for needles and thread I find would be Wawak.com and I prefer the Schmetz Needles whether for fabric or leather. A good article with a photo's of some of the various needle points and what your stitching will look like can be found at https://www.sailrite.com/leather-sewing-machine-needle-types I would recommend changing your needle frequently. Needles and thread are least expensive part of a project. I change my needle after 8 hours of use, when I think it is getting dull, having a stitching problem, been a while since I used the machine last, before starting a new project which ever comes first. kgg

You can probably buy it off one of the reservations just like smokes and gas. kgg

I am not familiar with the bonded thread but BNT69 indicates it is Bonded Nylon Thread in size V69 thread which is the same as Tex 70. The polyester thread size has do with how much weight there is in 1000 meters and in this case 75 grams. Some things to remember: i) Buy good quality thread made in North America like A&E thread (made in Canada and USA) but stay away from Chinese made non name thread particularly the 8 oz spools. ii) Items that are going to be exposed to the outdoors or to bleach Bonded Polyester Thread will stand up better then Bonded Nylon thread. iii) The V69 (Tex 70) thread is the "strong thread" is the thickest thread that the domestic sewing machines can handle and is really the bottom end size / strength wise used in industrial sewing machines. Some industrial sewing machines really don't like trying to use V69. Your machines is rated to V69 to V138 thread and probably would prefer V92 as the smallest size of thread. iv) The strength of V69 is 11 lb, V92 is 14.5 lb, V138 is 22 lb v) When sewing leather with your machine use 135 X 16 with the correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using (leather needles cut through the fibers of leather) and 135 X 17 for fabric with the correct size of needle for the size of thread you are using (fabric needles push apart the fibers of fabric). vi) A good reference chart for thread size to needle size can be found at: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html vii) Your machine should be able to sew close to 3/8" of material under the presser foot depending on the toughness of the material. viii) If your machine came with a clutch motor change it out with a servo motor to get greatly improved sewing speed control. kgg

Growing up the guys of the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary who walked a bet use to carry a Billy Knocker as well as a slap. The dirt bags use to make what we called Black Jacks by running 3/8 chain through a 4 inch length of copper pipe that was filled with lead and attaching it to another 4 inch of copper pipe also lead filled to form a "T". The Black Jacks could be used as a slap or held in the palm the same way a roll pennies could be used. I don't know which I would rather be on the receiving end, one good strike and it's lights out. We that said if you are defending oneself I still think it would be better to be judged by twelve then carried by six. kgg

There is a fair bit of info here on the site for the Econosew machines just type in "Econosew" in the search box and go down through some of the posts. Here is an example of what one user found with their Econosew 1541S bobbin case / hook assembly. kgg

These depend on the laws of the Country/ State or Province and maybe illegal no matter how they are dressed up to look like or function as something else. Check your laws before carrying one. The best is an improvised weapon like a good old fashion H2 pencil. kgg

That should leave a reminder particularly if the boot had a metal heel plate. kgg

Thank you. I don't know of any but it shouldn't be that hard to make something decent up. Drop me a PM. kgg

Should be fairly simple to design and print one for your press. kgg

Thank you. You known no machine is complete without a 3D printed accessory. Thank you. What kind of press did you have? kgg

The common cheap Chinese hand presses ($60 CAD delivered) are normally used for installing cap rivets, button snaps and grommets. I hate a machine that basically does one function that isn't that convenient to use. So here is what I have attempted to do. i) improve the hand press operation by adding a work surface that is level with the steel block to provide a larger flat work surface, 4" (101mm) verses the little over 3/4" steel block surface. ii) add more stability to the hand punch press ii) add an adjustable straight edge fence to accommodate items up to 4" (101mm)wide iii) add interchangeable hole punch blocks that would replace the steel block when hole punching iv) install hole punches for punching holes Photo 1 is of a typical hand press Photo 2 shows how little work area and how a piece of 3 oz veg tan rests on the steel block. Photo 3 shows the same machine with my work area and adjustable fence installed. Tightening of the steel block screw is accessed through a hole in the support foot. Photo 4 shows how the piece of 3 oz veg tan now rests on the work surface with the same steel block. Photo 5 shows the hand press setup to hole punch with a 4mm hole punch installed, the steel block removed and a smooth surface block installed Photo 6 shows the hand press with 3 oz veg tan Photo 7 shows the 4 mm hole punched in the 3 oz veg tan Any and all comments are always welcomed. kgg