kgg

Another place people forget too oil is the other end of the bottom shaft that is accessed by opening the two round cover plates on the main part of the machine. Like RockyAussie said: kgg

The #23 size needle I think is better suited to V138 (T135) so I would try a #24 needle with your T210 thread as it would a larger hole for the thread to pass through and the loop to be properly formed. Also hold both threads when starting to sew but make sure your bobbin is not over filled ( 80 % of capacity) and the bobbin tension is adjusted. If the bobbin tensioner spring was over tighten or is worn out you will not be able correct bobbin tension. A couple of video's that may help with checking the threading, bobbin and the bobbin case for problems: i) Juki LU 562 Bobbin Case Removal, How to load the bobbin and lift the thread ( similar bobbin case arrangement): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvEsOKqdPZ4 ii) Threading a Singer 111w155 Vintage Industrial Walking Foot Sewing Machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bkuf0__HzD0 kgg

The spring, poor bobbin tolerances, etc. This is used to help determine if the problem lies within the bobbin hook shuttle. If by reversing the position of the bobbin stitches become better you know where the problem lies. kgg

Yes the quilting people do spend a lot on their tables let alone their machines where the sky is the limit. Most of use, me included, complain and ponder about spending any amount for a new machine. Some hobbies are more expensive then others. kgg

Sometimes parts become weak with use and having the thread spool off the bobbin in the reverse direction can overcome the shortfall. kgg

Any chance of a couple of photo's of your thread path to the needle? Have you tried moving up to a #26 needle with the V277? Have you tried installing the bobbin so the thread comes off clockwise rather then CCW? kgg

There is always going to be market for items completely hand sewn and those willing to pay for the extra time but the market is much smaller then similar items sewn with machines. You are getting 8 hours of sleep? Hell I only get 5, I feel cheated. You'd be lucky to get a good machine for $1500. Since a hobbyist should be able to get at least 10 years out of a machine so the machine would cost $150 per year. If you were just doing belts that would be 7.5 belts or 7.5 hours of machine time plus cost of electricity to run a 1hp servo motor for 7.5 hours which would be $1.40 ((1hp=746watts) /1000 x .25 cents per kilowatt hour of electricity x 7.5 hrs = $1.398). kgg

That is a really nice belt anyone would be proud of. If it takes you 4 hours at say $20 (pick a number) an hour to hand-stitch that alone in itself would be an extra $80 you would have to charge where as with a proper machine you could cut that part down to say 1 hour or less ?? with similar results and a lot less stress on your hands. My opinion is hand stitching is really nice but most people wouldn't / couldn't appreciate the effort it takes to hand-stitch the belt and might not want to pay the extra. kgg

That is a terrible situation. Hopefully you find a spot soon. kgg

To help prevent needle deflections I would suggest either i) move up to a 135x17 size 20 or 21 needle when sewing thicker materials or ii) change the thread size to V92 and use a 135x17 size 22. kgg

So you can design in Fusion 360 then do a conversion and ship out the gcode to the laser. Which program are you using for your designs? kgg

Looking at you photo's again of where you are sewing the nylon webbing I wonder does this problem still happen? Have you tried sewing two or three layers of the webbing to give extra the thickness? Sometimes you need the extra thickness to allow for the bobbin and top thread to form and tension properly. I know if I tried sewing that webbing with my Juki 1541S, which is probably very similar capabilities wise to your PFAFF 1245, I would run into the same / similar problems. However if I used my Juki 1181N, walking foot machine, it would sew fine. My Juki 1541S hates thin stuff. kgg

Your article, Dumbing down a Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, or similar harness stitcher ( https://www.rw-leatherworks.com/blog/2019/02/dumbing-down-a-cowboy-cb4500-cobra-class-4-or-similar-harness-stitcher.html ) , is a really good. If possible any chance of a couple of photo's? kgg

I forgot to ask what size needle, bobbin thread and top thread combination are you using? kgg

I find this statement interesting " tightened the adjustment bolt to the max ". If you are talking about the little tension adjustment screw on the bobbin case that puts tension on the bobbin thread this is probably a good starting point of the loose stitches. If the screw is over tighten the thread tension spring will actually be bent away from the bobbin thread and not put proper tension on the thread which can lead to some funky stitches. You only adjust that screw in or out by about 1/8 of a turn and do a drop test after every adjustment of the tension spring. kgg

Just about split my sides when I read that. Nice building. kgg

Just a suggestion to broaden possible customer base. The cig case is a good idea but you should also look at doing something for the vape users. A lot of nicotine addicted people are vaping rather then smoking these days. I am one of those who converted over after 50 + years of smoking and many of those years were smoking 4 packs a day. Not saying it is better health wise but definitely cheaper on the pocket book. Maybe something to look at. kgg

What is the file extension that the machine software can accept a design. kgg

Thank you nice informative video. Have you tried cutting #6 gauge metal with the 22 watt? Also is the 22 watt that much better then the 10 watt for the price difference being about double? kgg

I agree regardless of the items being sold whether it's a vehicle or a cheap widget. I purchased a Honda Fit about 2 years ago, no trade, from a dealer about 2 1/2 hours away not because there isn't a Honda dealer closer but the difference in price was $2000 and they delivered the vehicle to me. I can get sewing machines and leather / material in Ottawa which is about 3/4 hours travel but after shopping there I just felt like I needed to take a shower. So I drive west to Toronto for machine related items and east to Montreal for leather / material related items which are both about 3 1/2 hours from me. kgg

My opinion is that if you use the same belt to go from 10 to 11 or vise versa there should probably be no problem but going down to the 8 may cause belt ride over / skipping etc do to the spacing / sizing of the lugs on the belt. Clogged or lugged belts are great as there isn't any slippage but the downside it has to be matched properly to the teeth of the gear or pulley. kgg

Yes you can reduce the size of the motor pulley but the improved gain may not be worth the trouble. You may be better to change the intermediate speed reducer configuration. If you know the size of the existing pulley's you could do the calculations fairly easily by going to the Pulley Calculator online. Go down to the Multiple Pulley Sets - RPM Reduction ( https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng ) section and enter your values. Base on the results you can determine is the slight gain in speed reduction and increased torque worth the effort. kgg

Thank you. Got a couple of projects just itch'n to do. kgg

Nice setup, you should be pleased when you get your CB4500 machine from Bob. I went with a KOBE TSC-441 as I have been pleased with the before and after sales service of the machines I have purchase from them. I will do the drive to pick the machine up since they are only 3.5 hours away so it will only cost me some time (free) and maybe $60 in gas in my Honda Fit. kgg

My journey on deciding / selecting a 441 class machine to add to my collection. I wanted to use and have the ability to use heavier thread in thicker / tougher material then what a 1341 class cylinder arm would allow for. Initially I thought of getting one those one armed bandits that can handle what I thread and thickness I wanted. I thought long and hard and almost bought one but it finally came down too one question for me. Would I be pleased with a one armed bandit and get the use out of the machine. The answer for me was a NO just too much work for me, a short fat guy. I then moved onto looking at the class 441 machines. First I looked at the 9" cylinder arm machines. The downside for me of those machines was the 9 inch arm which in reality has a shorter work surface then 9 inches. With my luck I would need a 1/4" more usable space. Then I moved onto the big boys 25 inch cylinder arm machines but decide against those as I figured the length of the cylinder arm was just overkill for what I would ever want to sew. I eventually decided on a 16 1/2 inch cylinder arm class 441 machine with a 1hp servo motor, 3:1 speed reducer and a non-pedestal stand. The machine will arrive shortly. kgg