kgg

How how thick and rough is the surface of the polyester webbing. I ran across this problem when I tried to use a thick very knobby webbing. The basting (double sided) tape needs surface contact so the smoother the two surfaces you are trying to connect the better particularly with smaller widths of basting tape. You could try regular heavy duty double sided tape or gluing the webbing in place but the downside maybe those may gum up the needle. A photo of the webbing may help with what's going on. kgg

The Oren appears to be similar to the Yamata fy810 so you could try and contact them at Yamata USA Inc now called Ricoma at ricoma.com. A temporary alternative would be to install a cotter pin or a nail of the same diameter if there is enough clearance. kgg

Looks in great shape and a right handed machine to boot, very unusual these days. kgg

The needle is striking the feed dog so the position of the feed dog needs to be adjusted so readjust both the Longitudinal and Lateral position. This may have occurred if the height of the feed dog was set to high above the needle plate and the inner presser foot slammed it out of position. kgg.

Maybe you might what to ask in another post what the clone of the PFAFF 191 is. kgg

Which province are you in? Expect the prices for the PFAFF parts to be expensive if they can be had. The main contacts for PFAFF Industrial: Canada: PFAFF Industrial Canada Inc 5.03 Google reviews Industrial equipment supplier in Montreal, Quebec Address: 4949 Boulevard Métropolitain E, Saint-Leonard, Quebec H1R 1Z6 Phone: (514) 389-7836 All of North America: DAP America, Inc. PFAFF Industrial Division 5875 Peachtree Ind. Blvd. Suite 220 Norcross, GA 30092-3677 Phone: 770 446 8162 Fax: 770 446 7521 ricardodossantos@dapamerica.com http://www.dapamerica.com/ kgg

As @Wizcrafts said the needle plate has a square slotted cutout to allow the movement of the feed dog from front to back. The Cobra Class 26 is basically a clone of the Juki LS-341 / LS-1341 and has a hole in the in the feed dog with the standard inner presser foot also having a hole. The needle should always go through the center of the hole in the inner presser foot and move front to back in unison. Also the needle will go through the center of the hole in the feed dog and also move in unison with the the needle. A couple of things to check: i) Longitudinal position of the feed dog (page 2 of manual) ii) Lateral position of the feed dog (page 3 of manual) iii) Needle-to-hook timing (page 6 of manual) iv) Feed cam timing and Feed motion (page 12 to 16) I have attached the Service Manual for the Juki I am referencing. kgg Juki LS-1340&42 Servcie Manual.pdf

I find Schmetz needles work the best in my machines. Buy a brand name like A&E and stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff particularly the 8 oz spools. Buying a brand name thread will save you a lot of frustration. I use A&E (www.amefird.com) thread in either bonded polyester or bonded nylon. I think this is just to thin of leather to allow proper seams appearance for a Class 441 machine. If this is the thickness you are going to typically sew I would suggest getting the narrow feed dog and needle plate that @RockyAussie came up with and also refer to @Wizcrafts article on dumbing down a Class 441 machine ( Dumbing down a Cowboy CB4500, Cobra Class 4, or similar harness stitcher ( https://www.rw-leatherworks.com/blog/2019/02/dumbing-down-a-cowboy-cb4500-cobra-class-4-or-similar-harness-stitcher.html )). No, for V207 thread which is Tex 210 the needle should be a #24 and in thick / tough / sticky materials you may have to go up to a #25 needle. The #23 needle is for V138 (Tex 135). kgg

I looked at your video's and here are my comments: 1.) Your top thread should come directly from the top guide above your thread spool to the second hole in the vertical guide and wrap backwards coming out the fourth hole to the top tensioner. 2.) Your thread at the head appears to be correct. 3.) The shuttle plate appears to be dry and needs a drop of oil inside. 4.) The feed dogs appears to have rust which may indicate other rusted parts which maybe rubbing and cleanup. 5.) When removing an item from under the needle pull out a few inches of top thread first so you are not causing strain on the needle and possibly cause a bucket in the needle. I would recommend removing the hook to inspect it and the surrounding area as there maybe a burr, needle may have struck the hook at some point, the tip of the hook maybe worn or filed back and need replacement. I would recheck and re-time like they do with the Cobra Class 4. A couple of photo's of the hook maybe helpful. kgg

If your timing is correct and the machine is timed properly I would figure your dealing with a tension problem. Since you removed the bobbin assembly to clear a tangle I am going to assume the problem lies with the bobbin tension. When you removed the bobbin shuttle plate you may have screwed the two screws in tight, which would be incorrect. Screw them in fairly snug and back off about, I think, a 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Since this is a used machine another bobbin problem could be the actual bobbin tensioner spring has at some point been over tighten (will decrease the tension on the thread as it will cause the tensioner to bend away from the bobbin body), has been bent outward by incorrect bobbin threading, the bobbin has been installed incorrectly and the spring in the bobbin case has been damaged. Even through the following video's are for the Cobra Class 4, which is basically the same machine, it will provide better instructions on installing, threading and tensioning the bobbin thread. kgg

The second photo in the ad @Wizcrafts referenced will give you the dimensions of the bobbins so you can compare. kgg

The following topic may help with threading. kgg

I'm at a loss I guess it is possible. Maybe one of the dealers could answer. kgg

@nylonRiggingThe newer Juki DNU-1541 S machines have the tension setup now like the Juki LU-1508 / LU-1509 series. I don't remember when they changed but @Crockett machine is the same as mine which is about 4 or 5 years old. I have seen that photo before but I never could track it down whether it was a real machine that went into production, a prototype or something else. If you look closely a few items jump out: i) The bed base is extended out further to the left of the needle like that of the Juki LU-1508 / LU-1509. ii) Two needle plates covers shown with the one on the right side of the needle with the catch spring being for a vertical drop in bobbin like the Juki LU-1508 / 1509 where as the Juki DNU 1541S has a fixed semi round needle plate on the right side of the needle. The Juki DNU 1541 has a horizontal bobbin case. iii) The shape of the bed is scooped out to allow for the bobbin case plate removal. iv) The number of holes for accepting various bolt down attachments is completely different then the Juki DNU-1541 series. v) The real kicker for me is the nameplate as it clearly states it is Juki DNU-1541 but there is a safety clutch on the bed which was on the DNU-1541S and the DNU-1541-7 not the Juki DNU-1541. kgg

You have an excellent top quality machine. The Juki is the one that the clones typically copy. The Juki DNU-1541S is rated to handle V138 thread on top and in the bobbin in thick material not just by what thread can be stuffed through the max size needle it can handle. As far as needles for leatherwork buy 135X16 and buy good quality brand name needles like Schmetz. The machine can accommodate up to a size #24 needle. A good reference chart for needle to thread combination can be found at ( www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). The Juki DNU-1541S is an upholstery class machine which can handle up to 3/8" thick material. The Juki DNU-1541S should be able to handle most things like wallets that are better done on a flatbed, depending on the style of armrests those are probably better done on a cylinder bed machine but it will not do for making gun holsters both on needed thread size and thickness requirements. To handle gun holsters you will need a class 441 machine like a Juki TSC-441 ($10k) or a similar clone ($3.5K). Thread is inexpensive so spend the extra dollars and buy good quality brand name thread like A&E in 1 lb spools and save the frustration of dealing with the cheap Chinese stuff. kgg

With info being hard to come by I would probably go with the 550 watt on the Singer and the 750 watt on the carpet edger. You are probably going to need more punching power doing jute/hard back carpets. kgg

If both are brushless servo motors there will be less torque, punching power, available on the 550 watt and spread over 5000 rpm while the 750 watt will have more available torque spread over less rpm's, 3500 rpm. However that can be like comparing apples to oranges if they weren't constructed with the same number of coils. More coils basically equals more torque and are more expense. A expensive 550 watt with 12 coils could be better then a cheap 6 coil 750 watt. You really have to look at the spec of the servo motor for things like brush vs brushless, number of coils, speed range, torque rating, etc. The cheap servo motors generally have 6 coils while the better high torque ones like the Reliable SewQuiet 6000SM have 12 coils. What machine are you planning on installing a servo motor on? I personally have 550 watt brushed servo motors on my machines which may not be available or common in your country. kgg

Yep, that's damn close. Nicely done. That arrangement should help tame the clutch motor. The next step maybe to replace the clutch motor with a servo motor. A couple of questions: i) What sewing machine are you installing this on? ii) speed reducer shaft diameter, large pulley size and the motor pulley size. I'm assuming the motor speed is 1750 rpm. kgg

Very nice hat band @chuck123wapati. Thankful though we don't have any of those around here, just your garter snakes and black ratsnakes. kgg

Nice top pulley. As @Trox has mentioned be very aware of the additional torque this the hand-wheel has created and by installing an speed reducer the even higher torque that will be available which could over stress internal parts. Your 335 does not have a safety clutch to prevent damaging those internal parts. Before you install a speed reducer I would try the machine on a project first. What are you planning on sewing? How thick? What size thread? kgg

I wish you a speedy recovery. kgg

I can't help with the cobber tools but I would suggest first getting the Chinese patcher also fondly known as the Tinkers Delight up and running properly first. Then getting use to it's quirks on some simpler items. kgg

I would suggest using one of the two following guides . My reasoning is that if you are off with your drilling /tapping or the screws are to long you could interfere with the bobbin / hook and the binder would be removed with the plate when you need to change your bobbin rather then just swinging the binding out of the way. i) Swing-Away Edge Sewing Guide #226292 if you are using your typical inline binding attachment, remove the edge guide part and drill a second hole in the guide arm. These can be had for about $20 ( www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/products/swing-away-edge-sewing-guide-226292-for-industrial-walking-foot-sewing-machine?variant=32221239541813 ) and would be installed like the one in the video at ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmkIu5dI0Xc ) ii) Swing-Away Binding Guide if you are using a 90 degree binder attachment like those used on the Juki 1508NH like what is shown in this video ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=AslKviewCvk ) kgg

Keep in mind generally the sewing thickness of the more popular flatbeds in the upholstery class of machines like the Juki 1541 is 3/8" total max sewing thickness. The cylinder beds machines have upwards to 3/4" depending on model. kgg

My take. If you want Japanese quality the Juki 1541S is still made in Japan the last time I checked as some Juki models are being made in China. I have a Juki 1181n made in China and it is not the quality of my Juki 1541S. With the clones it depends generally on what the clone importer / reseller specified as quality of internal parts and the level of after sales support the reseller can provide. A member a few years back was having a bobbin case problem with his 1541 clone and it turned out that it was manufactured with a different non compatible Juki one. With a Juki you will get detailed manuals (installation, operating and engineering) where as some of the clones provide some instructions on setting the machine up and refer you to the relevant Juki manuals. When it comes to reselling a machine it is much easier to sell a Juki as well it will command a higher used price then a similar clone. Before I purchased my Juki 1541S I went and test drove a few clones which I would advise you to do. Some were decent while others sounded like a bucket of bolts banging around. If you only have space / funds for one machine I would suggest you get a cylinder bed machine with a flat top table attachment and forego getting a flat bed. I think a cylinder bed machine with a flat top attachment will provide more sewing versatility. You can do flat items on a cylinder bed (with a flat top table attachment) but you generally can't do round items on a flat bed. With all that said it comes down to what you can afford and what you want to sew (round or flat items, thickness of leather including seams, thread size). What do you want to sew?? Buy once, Cry Once kgg