kgg

Time is just a relative thing. Just a little longer for some. Not a pet peeve but more of a chuckle and a half. I sold my Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 the other day to a guy who drove 5 hours arriving on time. The guy brought his wife along which was fine by me. I had the Sailrite setup alongside the Consew 206RB-5, which is also for sale, in the basement. So off all three of us toddle to the basement door. Both of them liked the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 but he really, really liked the Consew 206RB-5. His wife asked what I thought was a simple question "where are you planning on putting the Consew". Without as much as cracking a smile he said "Our bedroom". Well off to the races the misses went, like a firecracker. It got so nasty I backed up to get out of the way. It got so heated he finally ask her in no uncertain terms to go sit in the "xxxxx" truck. The only reason I didn't throw the two of them out was I figured I would sell one of the two machines to him. He bought the Sailrite Ultrafeed lSZ-1. I can only imagine what it must be like in private when the two of them get going based on what they acted like in someone else house they never meet before. I would have liked to have been be a fly on the wall for that 5 hour drive home. You just don't know how people are going to act. kgg

Why that doesn't surprise me. I guess they got sucker once or twice. kgg

If your machine is a Model C or D machine it has a safety clutch. Try resetting the safety clutch. Another problem could be the screws came loose and it put the bobbin gear messing off or a broken tooth. kgg

Are you planning on using 90 degree or inline binders??? kgg

When it comes to table top attachments I have couple of questions: 1. How deep does the table top really need to be from the front edge to the rear edge? 2. How wide does it really need to be from the needle to the left outside edge? 3. What do you use the table top for? 4. What accessories like guides / binders / etc if any do you use with the table top? 5. What class of machine do you use it on Class 341, Class 441? Hoping for some good discussion / experience. kgg

What is your price range???? For holsters you need a Class 441 capable machine like say a Cowboy 3200 or 3500 or 4500. Another option would be a manual machine like a Tippman Boss or a Cowboy Outlaw. kgg

Good advice. kgg

Nicely done. Your friend should really like it. kgg

Very good advice, thanks. How true. kgg

I like that. Keep the hardware and throw out the rest. kgg

And I thought the various sewing thread standards weren't confusing enough. I wonder which marketing genius came up with those misleading terms. To me "genuine" meant authentic and "real" meant actual. I also wonder how many people buy genuine leather and think they are getting decent leather? kgg

I think around 3 or so months. Which means he would spend about $80 a year for belts. kgg

This belt is a "Genuine Dickies" belt made in China with "Genuine Leather". This belt was owned, used and abused on a daily bases by my brother. Lets be kind saying it has seen better days and he got every cents worth of value out of the belt that probably cost about $20 CAD. Needles to say I'm in the process of making him a new belt made out of "real" leather. The only piece that can be salvaged is the belt buckle which is actually pretty sturdy. Now me being me I hated to just throw the belt in the garbage bucket. I first just had to dissect the belt to see how this inexpensive Chinese "Genuine Leather" belt was constructed. i) The belt is 36mm wide and has a thickness of 4.96 mm, according to my mic. ii) The edges are finished with some pliable plastic / rubber substance. iii) The prong holes of the belt are spaced 24mm center to center, according to my mic. iv) The belt did not have a loop keeper. v) There is some form of 3mm thick plastic strip that was sewn in the middle of the layers, probably for stability and longevity of the belt holes, that was installed 18 mm before the first prong hole and extended 18mm after the last prong hole. These measurements were according to my mic. vi) The body of the belt is made up of 6 layers of some form of fabric with the both sides being finished with what appears to me to be some form of fake leather. Each layer was stuck together along with the edge being stitched with V46 or maybe V69 thread. I could not find anything that to me would resembled some form of real leather, chrome tan or veg tan, in the construction of the belt. I guess the bottom line is you get what you pay for. kgg

@AlZilla sounds a little suspicious as the owner of equipment is in British Colombia, the OP is another province, phone number is for a cell phone in Calgary, Alberta, not wanting to post photo's and second topic post with same heading. Hum. I could be wrong but.... kgg

Things happen on a dime and you don't mind as they are being honest. kgg

That shouldn't be a problem to do as the hole to put the chain through is already drilled in the table top but you may have to extend the point of contact on the Presser foot lift pedal. kgg

Yes this is a presser foot lever extension to provide more leverage so the effort to rise the presser foot up is reduced. As with all levers the longer the lever is from the pivot point the effort to lift the load which in this case is the presser foot will be less. On most Juki Class 341 clones that don't use the pedestal stand the Presser Foot Lift and Go pedals are or can be adjusted farther back at the base of the stand to take full advantage of the extra leverage the extension bracket provides. The other Class 341clones can also be setup like the Cobra with the Lift Cable / Chain connected inside the base of the machine. The Cobra setup on a pedestal stand will require a little more effort to raise the presser foot. kgg

Appears to be a Consew 206RB-5. Here is a link to help you: ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html ) kgg

The needle is really made for V69. My thoughts: When you made the turn in the top left of your photo the stitch changed from good to bad. When you turn 90 degrees you need to move the leather when the needle is just starting on it's upward movement. Also since the needle is undersized there isn't any room to allow turning without the leather grabbing / twisting the thread and being tight in the needle which then probably throws off the thread tension. The bottom thread knot in the lightest dark color leather if it is 1.2 probably just hasn't got enough thickness to hide the V138 bobbin thread coupled with thread tension going off on the turn. My suggestions: Do a test run with the lightest color leather, I'm assuming it is the thinnest and see if V138 works properly in that thickness of leather. Do a test run with the lightest color leather, I'm assuming it is the thinnest and see if V69 works properly in that thickness of leather. Use a larger needle, #21 or #22 for V138. kgg

My take on the Juki thread spec. Juki rates their machines thread size (top and in the bobbin) to be used in the thickest material the machine is rated for not based on what the size of the thread that fit in the max size needle it will accept. Example: Juki LS-1341 is rated for V138 thread and will accept a #24 (180) needle. The #24 needle will take V207 thread yet the machine is only rated for V138 thread. Depending on how thick and tough the material is you could use V207 a lot of times. It appears that some clones rate their machine based on the needle being able to accept V207. Also if you are looking for that little extra pop V207 would give you maybe able to get away with V207 as a top thread and V138 as the bobbin thread but the strength of the seam will be that of the smaller V138 thread. Once you go consistently at V207 or at the max thickness of the Juki LS-1341 then you are at the cross over point into a Class 441 machine, Juki TSC-441. The cost of a Juki TSC-441 is for most prohibitive at around $8,000 USD and that's why the clones are the option for most at around $3,000 USD. The major drawback of the Class 441 is the size of hole the needle makes as compared to that of the Juki LS-1341. Think of a 3" finishing nail hole size. kgg

Nice brand name list. Expensive but very nice. I can't speak to the Alder machines other then parts and accessories can be expensive / limited. What my concerns would be with the Juki's are: I like my machines simple, machine, belt, motor and maybe a speed reducer. The Juki LS-2342 would be out of the running for me as it has an integrated drive motor, needle limit of 140 unless you go with the LS-2342H or LS-2342h-7-OB and uses the 134 needle system. The Juki LS-1341/1342 use the more common 135 needle system and can accept 180 needles. Motor replacement down the road could be expensive and does not allow for a speed reducer option. That totals about 24 oz of leather which means about 9.6mm (about 0.38"). That is within the approximate 1/2"+ ability of the Juki LS-1341/1342. Since you are planning on a large outlay of cash I would suggest making a trip to a dealer and test driving with your stuff a couple of machines. Here is a couple of links so you can compare the Juki specs: https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/admin/pdata/filedata/332/ls1340.pdf https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/admin/pdata/filedata/330/ls2342.pdf kgg

We all got to start somewhere. Basic parts of binding: i) tape binder (folder) ----- inline or 90 degree style in single or double fold for the size of binding tape ii) binder to machine attachment ----- either bracket or table mounted iii) binding tape --- fabric, webbing or leather in various sizes in spools or the more common rolls in typical sizes from 1/4" to 2" widths in cotton, nylon, polyester iv) binding tape holder ----- vertical or horizontal style kgg

It depends on how close the Class 26 is to a Juki LS-1341. I don't know if the Juki LS-1341 V type kit part number 21434857 would fit and even if it did the cost for the kit is really expensive probably in the range of plus $900 USD without any tape binder attachments. Also it was meant for 90 degree binders and I'm not even sure that attachment is still available for the Juki LS-1341. The question then becomes do you really need the synchronizing feature plus the additional cost of the 90 degree binders?? I ran a lot of rolls binding tape through my LS-1341 clone and I would have had a hard job justifying the additional cost of the V type kit. I also did NOT change the feed dog / presser feet/ needle plate as recommended by a lot of people. The way I figured it was that when you use a flatbed you don't have to change those parts to do binding so why on a cylinder arm ??? One minute I would be binding the next I would slide the swing away binder out of the way and continue on doing something else. By not making those part changes, in my case, I eliminated unnecessary tinkering with he feed dog / presser feet/ needle plate. Your results may differ. Also just like thread tension you still have to get the back tension on the tape correct, too tight or too slack and the result will look awful. What are you planning on binding, using raw edge binders or double fold binders, how thick and wide is the binding tape you want to use???? Yes they will work that is a similar style binder and swing away bracket. But and it is a big but they are meant for flatbed machines and you need to have some type of an adapter to mount them correctly to a cylinder arm. I have not seen any of the aftermarket table tops wooded or metal that will accommodate this type of attachment. So you will need to come up with something. That unit you referenced is made of two parts the swing away bracket and the binder. A single fold binder is also called a raw edge binder as it just folds the tape in half while a double fold binder folds the tape in half and then folds each side again to give a nice finished edge. The typical sizes available for the inline binders for raw edge or double fold range from 1/2" to 2" once you go above that you are into custom folders and they are expensive. The cost I think for the one you referenced is a little high as you can get them much cheaper off places like Ali Express for a 1/3 of the price. In my experience they do the job just as good as the more expensive ones but may not be as pretty. kgg

You have two basic options: i) 90 degree binders which are typically pretty expensive per binding tape size probably in the $70 USD range. The main advantage is you can get a tighter turning radius on bends. ii) Inline binders which are relatively inexpensive per binding tape size probably in the $15 USD range. The main advantage is you can also use them on flatbeds. Here is older version of what I done on a KOBE LS-1341 which is very similar to your Class 26 and it may give you some ideas. The binder has a swing away base. I use a similar setup on my 441 clone. kgg

You got to remember the leather sewing industry is a much smaller market then the fabric industry so most machines specify fabric needles like DPx17 needles (needle system 135X17). The spec's are the same for 135x16 and 135x17 except for the tips like @Northmount stated. Leather pointed needles (135x16) cut through while fabric needles (135x17) separate the fabric fibers. kgg