katit

"Crucial parts" was quoted to indicate their "importance". But I got nice machine and I figured it would be nice to have it complete. Of course I don't really care about those parts. Belt cover (front piece) is kind of bothers me cosmetically WD40 doesn't work Just took motor pulley off - it's 75mm and 15mm inside. Found same one but 45mm on eBay, let's see what it does. Should give more torque which is what I need. When I press pedal half way even though it's not sewing if I crank by hand it goes much easier. So, it's just motor can't overcome resistance. And seller said putting on low speed won't help. If I will work with leather it just won't start.. I hope 45mm pulley will help. Another question about servo motor: Should they squeal? When I turn machine by hand I hear this squealing noise. I though maybe it's belt skipping. But now I had pulley off and turned motor and it's motor itself. When it turns over under power - no problem. But it's very annoying when you do this last stich or try to raise needle it makes this horrible sound.

Spent couple hours just looking at all parts, sewing some, etc. Many questions came up.. 1. I want to clean it. See picture with white wrinkled surface. Dirt in low spots. I tries to soak with contractor solvent(similar to goo gone) and use tooth brush but no luck. Any suggestions? I think if I can clean it - machine will be like new.. 2. Servo motor. I was practicing and trying to go really slow. Sometime it works, but pedal travel is not relative to speed. Example, 30-40% of travel nothing happen and then 10% of travel it moves slowly and then it just goes fast. I wonder if there is something I can do to make it gradual? Changing speed on servo control just "moves" this grab point and makes top speed lower/faster 3. Bobbin casing. There is some dirt/gunk inside. I'd like to clean but not sure if it's possible to take hook assembly out without kicking it off alignment? 4. Machine missing all "Crucial" parts In manual it says don't run without needle guard, don't run without this guard over this up/down thingy (not sure what is the name) and don't run without belt cover. All those missing. I found part numbers for them. Any common online supplier for those? 5. Walking foot. It is not flat on a bottom. I afraid it might mark leather. Which one do I need and any other feets I need to get for this machine? Will be working on automotive upholstery. Thanks a lot! More pics:

Finally it happened!! I got my first sewing machine. Not first walking foot, not first industrial. But first sewing machine! Machine seem to work just fine. Smooth, servo motor can be controlled pretty good. I was able to sit down in a store and do some sewing just like I wanted, first time in my life Machine looks more dirty than on picture, of course. Any suggestions on how to get it cleaned up really good (those paint wrinkles?) Very excited. Now need to get some thread and start practicing..

This question is loaded as I get really confused with this. And I'm new to this too. I will put many tidbits of info here (facts) and try to ask some questions to make sense of it 1. Automotive leather has special UV treatment (DYE? clear coat?) Some places claim this. 2. Automotive leather is just an upholstery leather about 1.2mm thick. Called Tandy leather, they have upholstery leather for $90 per hide on sale - she said it's used for cars too. 3. There is bad/cheap and good automotive leather. Stay away from cheap leather 4. I ordered samples from german OEM leather distributor (about $500/hide) - it's soft, pliable. 5. ordered samples from other automotive leather distributor (about $200/hide) - much stiffer, seems like top "color coat" is like plasticky.. 6. I watched some youtube video where guy was complaining that leather he got is very stiff/dry and not good (cheap) So, how can I make sense out of it? How can I tell if leather bad or not bad? Is places like Tandy to stay away? What bad leather means? Hard to sew? (and if so what problems exactly?) Or it will dry out under sun/rip, etc? Bottom line I'd like to understand how to tell, what to look for. Maybe if someone knows also recommend good seller.

Well. I am buying this machine next week. Will post more info if it works out

From what I gathered all new PFAFF machines made in China. Of course I might be wrong but.. My rationale is that since they keep prices up and since China definitely capable of producing quality stuff - chances are this machine is just as good. At least for my use case.

Here is 2 more pics from seller. He says it is original But it says Germany and he said China made?

Glenn, are you sure? Maybe it's some "special order"? Because sticker on a bottom if you make pic little bigger says PFAFF... something on a top

Found 2 more machines. Both with table/servo motor. Consew 206RB-5 Pfaff 1245 Price difference is negligible. Both in about the same condition. Both China made (is PFAFF made in china??) I don't know exact pfaff model and I wonder why it doesn't have logo on machine? Any of those look good or still should look for something not made in China?

Well.. It's been a while but I still don't have a machine. They never come through to my emails, now I can't even get a hold of Nick. That machine sold now Home improvements got me sidetracked from hobbies, now I'm back.

Adam, I'm sorry not sure I understand. Do you mean machine in video need to be timed/wrongly setup? Or do you mean that it's correct that for each stich size reverse stitch size need to be adjusted?

Another question about 206RB On this video around 1:16 he talks about stich len and reverse. I wonder how people deal with issue of non-equal reverse stitches? I guess you adjust machine for spefic stitch size so they equal in reverse?

Do you know approximately what time 206RB-5 manufacture started? Just trying to estimate age.. Also, I asked to show how slow machine can go and also motor controllable - it had trouble starting through thick fabric on lowest speeds because of lack of torque. I assume speed reducer still needed. Or is there newer servo motors which will start and go slow through automotive leather? I know if I go with this machine some upgrade will be needed, just not sure what is the best way

Visited local Nick-O store. They have used 206RB-5 with "Tokyo, Japan" on badge, I guess they made some of those in Japan? Looks very decent cosmetically (no scratches on machine, like new) .. They want $1000 and it's got older 1/2hp servo

Uwe, please check your messages

I also found some info that it's better design. True/false? What machines from our list have top mounted bobbins?

Still looking and learning as much as I can. Right now decision is to wait for great deal on used and if nothing by end of August - go with new. Probably P1206RB or Seiko. While watching and reading I noticed some machines have bobbin under machine in front and some machines have it on top. Question: which is better/easier? out of machines I watch used: 206, 211/111, 562/563, 545/1245 which one is which?

Have you bought this machine? Wonder what is the acceptable price as well...

Bottom is not a problem for what I need. Need to make sure top is not marked

Thanks! Markings on leather is a nono for me. I see few of those machines around with much higher prices but seems like it’s now what I need

Hm. What about this machine? Couple hundred miles.. https://peoria.craigslist.org/for/d/juki-sewing-machine/6643821166.html

You can quickly google them. $1300 might be my bad, it's more when all completed. But there is new head for $1150 for example. Bottom line - they can be had cheaper than 206-RB5 and if they truly the same and made in Japan - probably better deal..

I made an offer, seller said he will wait and try to get full price for it but will get back to me if nothing happen. I figured for work that need to be done + Servo motor $400 is probably right price. Yes, it seems like this machine was sitting for a while with all that patina(rust?)

Seiko I mentioned available online brand new

Floyd, thanks. what “two bills” means? Never heard this phrase before