katit

Very interesting. I didn't even think it's possible but I guess it makes total sense. Any sources for hardware by PN? Also, is there any sources for part catalogs with part numbers?

Been 9 years, any luck with that? I'm going to need some screws for Singer machine and not sure where to look. I don't even have parts catalog for this model 168w101 I have tap/die kit's, is there any info on threads being used? Are those metric or SAE?

So, I got this skiver and it needs TLC. From what I can tell after watching cechaflo videos on YouTube - it's missing some pieces. A. Right belts cover, B. Spring on arm which moves roller. Not sure what the purpose of it yet. I also figured this is kind that feeds and rotates blade at the same time, no separate drive. I can adjust speed by moving belt between 3 different positions. Questions to public: Does anybody know this model of skiver? It's labeled privately or was it a big company? I assume it's clone of Fortuna, but which model? Does anybody know where to buy parts? I need small belt on right and I need that tiny belt which drives sharpener wheel. I may reuse old one, but if they are available I'd rather get a replacement. Is there manuals/service manuals available? Does this paint look original? It's flaking opening up gray/red under paint. It seems like it was painted over but long time ago, did they come with painted knobs? Any general advice on cleaning surface rust and making all knobs/handles look great?

Those machines were stored in house basement. Luckily machine does not have any rust. But 20+ years of storage. Skiver as you see got rusty. Will need more work..

This bed seem to be about 1 inch longer. Now I need to think hard what I want to do. I definitely don't want another table here If I make cutout bigger - I will weaken left corners support and need to come up with some kind of reinforcement for "regular" machine. This is what hooks look like, I can easily remove them. I also see that I can just make front/rear of cutout with a "step" which will make it very sturdy solution. I wonder if I can make some kind of wooden "adapter" which will raise this machine couple inches but bottom portion will go into "standard" slot. Hight will be ok, this machine will become "standing". But I can reuse table/motor this way. I have same issue with skiver. No space for additional table, need to come up with a way to use skiver on regular table. Skiver should be easier, it's flat on a bottom and 9in wide, will overlap existing hole. I can even mount it on some plywood.

Any suggestions on table top? I’d like to have one universal top. Seems that I can make cutout longer on left and come up with some “filler” piece for regular machines. But those rear mounts is not in correct places and don’t look the same

Got that razor knife skiver from eBay but didn't even try it when opportunity came up. Odds for that happening were close to 0, but now I got nice project on my hands.. Cheap one get's returned back to the seller. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84699-what-is-this-machine-168w101/

Thanks a lot, this is exactly what I needed. It does explain all adjustments needed. I definitely don't have issues with "wrong equipment" now, but I have issues with too much equipment.. Do you know if regular 111 style hand lift lever will work? Actually I may see if I my Seiko one will fit, it might be the same part.. Also this machine has different mounts(not holed in a bed as in others) and it's got about 1 inch longer bed. Another thing to deal with.. Do you have pictures on how it's mounted?

Thanks! I want it now Do you have a link to instructions on this? I also don't see a manual foot lifter on it, should it be there?

Looks like at least once in 100 years I get little lucky. So, couple days ago my wife's customer said they are closing business and finally retiring. They have shoe repair store and guy used to have factory making rider's boots. I told my wife if I need anything - it would be very cheap skiver and maybe post bed machine like PFAFF 1295. So, I said to myself this is what I would be interested in at very good price. I need post bed to do some special sewing like headrests seams where you have to go round. I was thinking machine like 1295 can replace all I have and serve flat-bed duty with adapter. Anyway. Here is what I got for $200. Skiver and machine. I told the guy this is closest machine from 20+ he got to what I need. However I don't see stitch adjustments and there is no reverse.. He asked 150 for skiver, but since it's got little rust he said take both for 200. Skiver looks complete, soaked it and will get it restored first. Machine? Not sure if I need it. Does it have any value? Can it do 92 thread and can I adjust stitch? Looks like 111 but very simple on a bottom and if stitch adjusts it must be not as easy..

Depends how slow you need. In my case swapping standard 75mm motor pulley to 50mm was enough. If you need literally "dead slow" - need to use something like this: http://www.techsew.com/parts-supplies/sewing-accessories/speed-reducer.html

There is 2 small screws holding tensioner to bobbin case. Tensioner is basicallly flat metal piece. When thread goes between this plate and bobbin case - it rubs creating tension. You need to adjust using center screw in very small 1/4 increments. Opening - will open gap decreasing tension, closing - will close gap increasing tension. You need to rotate hook in a position where you see those screws on a side. You should feel tension when pulling bottom thread. And you should feel difference after making adjustments. Sorry, I can't find any pictures

I know. And mine is not German. I know they say it doesn't matter, but it's in a "head" Perception.. If I had German PFAFF in excellent condition I wouldn't be asking this question.

Why? Overall interesting feedback Especially that PFAFF is not German made/old school. I thought it will be different. Lack of real tensioner on PFAFF bobbin winder is probably a problem, I didn't think about it.. But yes, bobbins on Seiko much "tighter"/neat. I got this fancy new motor with positioner from Keystone. It will go on whatever machine I keep. PFAFF install will be easy, drive belt pulley already has correct bushing on it. I always think about sewing those headrests and how tight it is with PFAFF bulky head. I have to sew right inside of it. Post bed machine would be ideal for this task, but I think this Seiko will be more ergonomic, with smaller/narrower head will be easier to move around.

How do you guys setup yours? I am considering making mine standing table. I don't spend whole lot of time sewing, it's mostly smaller pieces and about 10% of other related work. Bar stool can be also used if needed to sit down. Thoughts?

Yesterday I loosened stitch adjustment just tiny bit. More oil. Now it moves. I can adjust stitch both ways without using other tools (aka vise grips). Still, need to turn slowly, otherwise safety will pop. For that matter I consider restoration complete. Will sew some parts make sure it performs correctly with real stuff

I think he may be tripped safety clutch, I was confused like this. When you increase stitch it's tight enough to trip clutch and then it starts feeling like something "jamming".

I need to get rid of one machine, don't need 2. Which one would you keep? http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84357-seiko-stw-8b-aka-consew-226r-refurbishadjust/ or http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/81572-yet-another-which-machine-to-buy-topic/?page=3&tab=comments#comment-557462 I did use PFAFF for some upholstery work and it works just great without any single glitch. I am going to use Seiko from now on just to make sure it is running perfect after my restoration. But I will have to get rid of one for sure. Seiko PROs: Was cheap, don't have to think about keeping $$ in something I won't use much I like reverse better with lever to push I like foot lift via chain (didn't connect it yet) on a pedal better than knee lift I really like parts prices and availability Info availability. My knowledge of all pieces/adjustments.. Seem to be more ergonomical especially head assembly not as bulky. Manual lubrication. Not sure if it's PRO or not, but I'm not in a rush and don't mind lubing every point especially that I know it throughout. Made in Japan. PFAFF PROs: Bigger bobbin Bobbin winder onboard (I like it better also external fine too) Larger stitch (also I don't see real need for it in my use case) So far bulletproof Newer Opinions?

Reporting success!!! Got machine sewing today. At least I know nothing wrong with it and if small tweaks need to be done - I kind of know what to do. I really wish someone helped here with more advice.. Machine works! No more skipped stitches, runs solid and smooth at any speed I tried. 4-6 layers of upholstery leather - no problem! Feed dog: Original was 6.05mm wide. New one was 6.3mm wide. Took it to mill and made it 6mm. No rubbing, all great. Feet: Adjusted per Uwe's video on Consew 225, worked almost great. Except it is hitting casing as in picture of previous post. For now I adjusted it where it almost touches casing and it's almost like it should be. I wonder if I have to remove that piece of casting allowing for more movement? Stitch len/reverse: It was set to do about 11mm stitches and no reverse. There is no adjustment block like in Uwe's video, but I figured out what I should adjust and used 2 red bolts in picture. I turned blue bolts all way out almost to make stitches as long as possible. I guess previous owner didn't care about reverse and needed longest stitch possible?? Now it does ~6mm forward/reverse. Not exact forward/reverse, but fine-tuning will be using blue bolts and sacrifice some len. Another thing about stitch length is speed. It looks like if I run machine at full speed - stitch size increases a little. I wonder if it's related to not just perfect feet timing and the fact that feet right now is smooth feet on a bottom. Safety clutch: It was glued in, now it works. I tried sewing different tough materials - all great. Where I do have issue - it's when adjusting stitch size. When increasing stitch it's tight turning and causes clutch to pop. So I'm not sure if it's clutch or adjustment mechanism need to be dealt with. I did adjust stitch turning shaft with vise grips. I oiled it, soaked. Tried adjusting both ways and it loosened somewhat but still flips clutch when adjusting. I wonder if this is why previous owner got it glued. I see bunch of different bolts which supposedly can be used to loosed stitch mechanism, but hesitant to touch any of it for now unless I understand what to do.. Overall it works great, no binding of any kind. Everything very smooth. Front cover broken bolt fixed, all parts in place.

@Uwe, @gottaknow Eric/Uwe, calling for help!! Today I started to adjust machine. First step - hook timing - went perfect. Little fiddling, got it just the way in Uwe 225 video shows. One thing I wanted is little better mesh between gears (back gear more to the right). Another problem I noticed comparing to what it was - needle bar was about 1/8 inch too low. Installed new feed dog and plate. PROBLEM #1: Feed dog rubs on a plate, picture shows it (left side). It also was hitting plate on a bottom (too high on setup). Got it all way down - see how bolt is. So it moves more or less, but I fiddled with a feed dog while screwing in - tried to keep it on right and centered - this is best I got it. Still not centered in a plate. However, needle is centered. So it's something with plate? Just to be clear - old parts worn out but they were same way, crooked and not centered. Also, feed dog is not horizontal, it tilts a little. So OK, this was somewhat moving. PROBLEM #2: Followed Uwe's video on setting up walking foot. Equalizing them. When I got small foot down, needle touches material. Loosened camshaft, both feet dropped as prescribed. Tightened. And no go. Now front cam hits case casting (arrow in picture) How do I solve those 2? Even though dog moves - if I increase stitch len to anything other than smallest - it starts to rub badly.

Well. I installed old belt. It's frayed on one side a little, I carefully cut those loose strands, washed with soap. Its pliable, no cracks/etc. Decided to let it be. When I timed top-bottom I realized that it really can be 1 tooth here or there. Hard to tell. I tried to go by "eccentric" feel on top because there is some movement in TOP here or there. I also tried to go with all slack removed as machine being turned by the top pulley. With what I described it's about 1/32 off on bottom mark. Oiled everything and everywhere. Spin and oiled. And again. It was all cleaned with kerosene and then blown with air. It's literally dust free and now all soaked in oil. Now dealing with hook timing. Everything. And I mean everything need to be adjusted. Reverse, foots, stitch indicator, etc. Will be fun

Btw, I read whole archive, all topics from Eric and Uwe. Pretty much ready to go. But looks like I got a bad part. All ebay sellers list belts and say there is 3/8 variance in length. Those machines don’t have tensioners, I will take short one please:)

That,s not a problem.. timing I can deal with. My problem is a belt itself. I need to know if it’s OK to be loose like this. To be about 1/8 narrow comparing to old one I guess not... old belt is not original either, but it’s pretty tight on gears

Progress here, I thought I will get it ready for timing but NO. This belt is not right need help here.. it’s correct pn but it’s loose and narrow

I found it tricky to press just enough for clutch to disconnect and not run motor. And I don't run it that fast anyway. Removed this brake "pad" and all is well. 2 bolts, you will see it under plastic cover.