canonitr

I got Ledafil Super as base coat , and orly bt extramat as edge paint, though I am actually using wuta for the above .. I also have some basco edge coat in clear (https://www.goodsjapan.com/basco-leathercraft-edge-coat-brown-leather-edge-dye-dressing-kote-finish/a-20161) and wonder if I could use it as base for painting as well.. seems to dry to the same as the ledafil

Thanks . I couldn’t find the pieces that I had .. but what I did do was get base coat and edge paint

Looking for one example.. might have thrown it into scrap pile…

This was taken from the internet.. not my edge.. I think the piece I have is chrome tanned too. Though it seems it’s not the type of tanning that is the root cause..

a picture i got from the internet.. the lower piece has loose fiber ,,, source https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Looseness

i have already sanded it, but its not actually fiber sticking out, but more of a loose edge..i have tried tokonole (similar) on other projects, and it doesnt really work, though i never actually compressed it after application..

i recently got a hot foil machine from China.. about $170 SGD (~ $125USD) incl shipping or $100 SGD (~$75 USD) for the machine alone , though they have a slightly cheaper, smaller one (with smaller heating element). in fact a complete alphanumeric set (3x each char) cost 2.5 times the machine. the heating element is about 3x4 inch and is bascially a press with the heating element attached. For it's price, everything is manual.. there is no foil holder at all and no markings on the base plate.. What's worse is that the stamping die is connected to the heating element by use of a m5 threaded bar. In order to be able to remove the die, there must be clearance between the heating element and the base plate. However, with the clearance, the stamp is not able to meet the base plate.. the wooden board is used to raise the stamping bed a bit higher, though i have since changed it to a MDF board with graph paper for better and consistent positioning. the back of the base plate has a 1mm thick acrylic piece used as a stopper for the MDF board.. So the question is, is it worth it? Yes.. for my personal use only.. its very manual.. but it serves my need for its price. i would think that for a $1000 machine, you would want something with the ability to change the dies easily (slide in/out) instead of a threaded rod.. have a positioning guide or markings foil holder i spent about $700 SGD ++ for the machine, 8 foil colors, 2 full alphanumeric set (one script one normal), maker's mark, constellation and zodiac signs dies. the dies are cnc brass

Hi, i'm not sure what's the term for it, so i am just going to use "leather fiber" for now.. basically, when i am about to finish my leather edges, i notice that for most parts, i am able to get the 2 or more layers sandwiched nicely (sanded nice and even).. however, i do get small portions of the edge, that just seem to not be able to be flattened down nicely, and looks like the leather fiber at that part is is uncompressed or loose. any glue or tape at that area is still there, between the 2 pieces of leather, but the fiber just behind the adhesive just loosens up. it happen whether i use contact glue, or double sided tissue tape.. it happens rarely between 2 vegtan pieces, but fairly often if one piece is goat or some other leather (in my current case, its nubuck). the nicer parts can get burnished with edge wax. bees wax or paraffin wax, or more recently with the Crimson OEM fileteuse, but that loose fiber is giving me some headache.. i'll try to get a picture of what i mean later on tonight (my time)

there is a product from columbus that is called rub-rub .. basically its a piece of rubber (raw rubber ?) .. after gluing, u use the rub-rub to, well, rub the squeeze out ... i used to have issue with gluing the soles to my shoes because of the squeeze out making it unsightly..

isnt the black stuff kiwi shoe polish ?

space is at a premium in Singapore, so we build upwards.. when i didnt have the rack, i had stuff all over the place.. the rack was to accommodate my fishing and leather working stuff.. it seems the leather stuff pretty much filled up the rack.. i dont lay them flat.. it's rolled up(have been advised that its better to store in this way to keep fibers tight (??)) the widest hide i have is maybe 4 1/2 ft wide, so it sits okay on the rack. have about 6-7 rolls of full/ half hides

i got a 4 tier, 4ft long, 6ft high boltless rack to store my hobby stuff, and 1 tier is dedicated to laying the leather horizontally..

i bought small pieces (20 x 30 cm) of crazy horse for about $6 (SGD) each .. waiting to receive as I accidentally chose sea freight from China.. now most of my hardware (not tools) come from wuta.. @BR79compare goodsjapan's pricing to leathercrafttools.com .. both are from japan .. have similar stuff.. but pricing differs as goodsjapan seem to factor in shipping into their pricing already, whereas LCT doesnt, and allows you to choose EMS or normal at the end

i like my crimsons.., not sure if they are chisels or irons, though crimson calls it irons..

Taped the fabric to the grain side and did a mock up for the wife to see and comment..

@bikermutt07 i like your signature .. similar to what my wife says about me ... spend 1 grand and months to make something that could have been bought , for 20 times less.. I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. and did i mention, I bought the item as well....

I get then slant on the left, since I start on the left. With casting on the left, I get a straight stitch line at the back.. without casting (is that the correct term), I would get slants on both sides

true that! thats what i told my kids.. consistency is key here ... doesnt matter if the slant is there or not.. just need to ensure that all the stitches are the same..

i gave up on the terminology and just stuck to sticking the item into the pony with the top of the slant facing towards me, and sew left handed/starting from left side (though i am right handed) towards myself, with casting on the left side. if using reverse irons, then i change it to the right side..

i wanted something like that originally, but have no access to woodworking tools or equipments.. else, i would prolly want a horse rather than pony.. for this one, i paid less than SGD40 with shipping, for 2 units (my kids) from Wuta as well .. again, during 11.11 sale..

i just got the exact same one from Wuta... ordered during their 11.11 sale on Taobao

i do it the way i think it's done by Nigel .. the upper part of the slant is point up towards me .... and i go in left first , tighten the left needle with a loop left behind (which is now on the opposite side), and the right needle goes in front of it, towards the the top of the slant .. once in, the loop formed by the left needle drops over the right (casting?)... thats what i showed my kids.. if the holes were punched on the right side, then i do right needle in first and reverse the loop .. whichever the case, i told them they need to be consistent .. it doesnt need to be done this way .. just that which ever way they did it, they have to do it all the way to the end.. no rights or no wrongs..

once i get the corner cutter in, i will letting them sew their own card holders... think it will please them lots to carry around something they made with their own hands.. right now . i'm having issues cutting out the ID windows