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Thanks. I've got some 12 oz containers around somewhere. Ed

Does anyone have a good, safe way to dispose of used machine needles? Thanks, Ed

Is it all just good eyeballs, or is there a method or tool used to accurately drill down the center of a cylinder? Ed

I'll look it up in the books I have, but I thought I'd ask anyway. Is there a particular form to file if you want to defer some of your deductions for future years when you anticipate higher income? Another question: Say that on your 2008 return, you defer $2000 of deductions for the 2009 year, could you then just add that $2000 into your 2009 deductions and from that lump sum decide how much you want to defer to a later year after 2009? To ask this question another way, If you defer $2000 from 2008 to 2009, are you locked into taking that deduction in 2009, or, depending on 2009 finances, could you again defer part or all of that $2000 to a year in the future after 2009? Thanks, Ed

I just now got the bright idea to cut two 4 oz (1.6mm) leather shims for the flat slotted needle plate. Cut out ample holes for the plate screws and cut the shims so there is no overhang into the needle guide/ ground-down feed dog. Works great. By the way, what are you trying to do with the canvas? How many layers need to be stitched? I'd like to run the same through my machine just for kicks. I'll use a 23 needle and 138 thread. Ed

I'm liking the idea of this drill press lathe more and more. I could cut down the raw turning sticks to sizes needed and turn just those sections, which fall within the range of 3/4" to 4". One chisel I know I need to get is a 1" rough out to knock off the angles of the blanks. I'll need another chisel for creating the channels. For these channels, would it be best to get spindle chisels of varying widths of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 1", or would a 1/4" spindle chisel allow for a channel width of 1/4" to whatever is desired, depending on how you run the tip along the dowel? Another question: My drill press currently has the belt set on the middle pulleys for @ 1725 rpm. If I want to change the speed, do I need a different belt, or do I just position the same belt on a different set of pulleys? Thanks, Ed

It seems that every day I grow increasingly more dependent on my Dremel, as I find more tasks for it to do. Are there some brushes or bushings that I should have on hand for normal maintenance and repair? Ed

This looks very interesting and perfect for my needs, though I'd have to move my drill press to a different location because of the wood shavings. I'd like to know how the turning blank is secured on the mandrel. I'll see if I can call them. Thanks, Bree.

Don't give uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuup. I just love fiddling with stuff. It's got to be possible. Try the washers on center foot bar. One or two will do it. I reread your original post. It seems that you need to lower the post that the outer feet screw into. This is a very easy adjustment. Unscrew the face plate. Loosed the two bolts that lock that bar into position. Then slowly wiggle the outer feet left and right to lower the bar a tad. Once you have it in the correct position, make sure the feet are centered, and tighten those two bolts. Be sure not to overtighten anything, and use a long-handled screw driver that has good torque and a good flathead. You don't want to strip anything. Ed

These machines were not designed for thin material, but I think there are some work arounds. One thing you can try is to come up with some kind of spacer, maybe just washers, to raise the needle plate a tad. You can also try to fashion some kind of washer to lower the center foot on its post. There is a screw adjustment that will allow for the lowering of the outer foot. There is another way to lower the inner foot couple millimeters , but it requires the removal of what appears to be a governing screw, which I'm not sure may be a good idea in the long run. One definite drawback to this adjustment is that there will be one rocker are inside the machine head that will rub against the face plate. One could experiment and grind out the necessary space. It doesn't require that much grinding. I actually think using washers on the inner foot post is the best idea to lower the inner foot. This also may require readjusting the up/down waling foot distance. I started a post on these types of adjustments. It would be great if someone from Artisan or elsewhere can post a demo video on these adjustments. Ed

Keith, That's a brilliant idea. Thanks a bunch. Ed

I'll be careful about the toxicity, though I will never be working with this wood in an ongoing production capacity. I've run a few pesticide experiments with the shavings. They do seem to repel insects. Ed

When I hand stitch parts of my bags, I like using an awl handle with a 328 machine needle. I currently use an automatic awl with this 328 needle. The largest needle I've been able to use is a size 23, which is a bit smaller than I'd like, but larger needles don't fit. Can anyone recommend an awl handle that will take a 328 or 794 system needle? Thanks, Ed

Just what I don't need right now, another obsession. Ten minutes' playing with my sticks, and I'm having a fabulous time.... oh the sweet, spicy aroma. I have never smelled anything like it. quickly I have realized, with your help, some indispensable tools for turning these by hand: rasp, chisel. sand paper, and shaper (which I had been using to rough up leather for gluing). It takes some elbow grease, but what the hell, I don't have a gym membership. I think I'll save the shavings and sell them on Ebay for Potpourri. I'm also beginning to wonder if these shavings might serve well as an insect repellent. The next thing I need is a good mitre box to insure straight sawing of the wood wheels. Any suggestions. Ed

I'll check out harbor freight. Just got my 1" turning blanks from Rockler today. They have a 5-speed mini lathe by Excelsior for $250. It will take up to 17" long turning blanks and up to almost 10" bowl blanks. I am tempted to get it. However, it is probably better to pay a bit more and get the Jet mini lathe for around $390 to $470. It would be so cool to start making pens, bowls, burnishers, candlestick holders, and whatever else. I loved working with wood a long time ago, but have never used a lathe, save 20 minutes in a high school woodshop class. I was wondering, what are the individual hand tools I would need to make grooves of various widths and to do the initial knocking off of turning blank corners? Ed

Hi Bree, I had a difficult time locating authentic lignum vitae. I got the Argentinian variety which is similar but apparently not in the same family. Which did you get and were they 1" sq. or 1.5" sq? I got the 1" sq. figuring I'd start trying to turn by hand to get a 1" dowel. 1.5" would have required much more sanding. When I do find someone with a lathe, I'd imagine they could turn the 1" sq. blank to a dowel with an approx. dia. of 1". Now, Bree, would you by chance happen to have a lathe? Ed

Thanks, Ben. Weldbond looks very promising. I'll give beacon a call tomorrow. Maybe they can direct me to a specific product. The 809 is rather expensive at $6 for 8 oz. Ed

I'm always looking for a better glue for prepping 5/6 oz chrome tan and veg tan leather bag seams prior to stitching. Contact cement doesn't work because I need to put a light bead on only one piece of leather and then have about 10 minutes to position and reposition the two or three layers. White glue works well for straight seams, but for gusset corners I could use a stronger glue that doesn't require a large bead line. I've seen a glue called magna tac 809 from Beacon at my local crafts store. It is clear and is more viscous than any contact cement I've used. Does anyone have experience with this glue and know if it provides a strong hold? Or what about Gorilla glue? Thanks, Ed

Hi Kathy, Do you have a good source for this thin pigskin? I've used Tandy's pigskin but I'm looking for larger, a little more supple pieces. Thanks, Ed

I'm bringing more attention to this burnishing wheel from Ivan Sampson, as I think it may be an excellent tool. Ivan says it works much better than exotic wheels do, though I'm still looking forward to having the wood too. Ivan called me the other day to tell me that he is currently selling this burnishing wheel attached to a 1/8 hp motor, which you would have to bolt down yourself to a 1 sq. ft plywood board that can be clamped to your work area for use and then stored away. All for about $80. It would be nice to make a little portable case for the whole thing. Ed

For the longer mandrel screws I ended up getting 3mm metric machine screws of lengths from 20mm to 50mm.Just a redundant reminder. I do really like having this F1 corded felt option for dremel burnishing. It comes in handy for certain intricate situations. Ed

I ordered Argentinian Lignum Vitae and cocobolo blanks. I now have the tools to turn them by hand, but will be on the lookout for someone with a lathe..... to the yellow pages I go. Ed

I ended up getting the 1" x 1" blanks. I'll try turning them by hand until I can find someone with a lathe. Ed

I've put the marked veg tan sample squares aside and will test them again in a week without any additional treatment. Ed

The following pictures of the second application, annotated with "IIW" were taken after 45 minutes and after the water bead had been wiped away to reveal the presence or lack of a water spot: