Flatcapper

Heurfaces. Then just weklllo everyone and thanks for the support and advice. I just wound up with a few bruises and the smashed finger. I think my finger broke the machine heads fall! We had wiped the head down some when we removed the plastic bag after getting the foam pack ing out of the box. I guess they want the head to be well oiled to keep it from rusting I'd like to thank the Leather Machine Company for being so understanding, and sending me the take up lever that got broken in the fall. As for the cast metal corner that got broke off, I just cleaned everything with alcohol, then sanded the powder coating back from the broken surfaces, then mixed well a generous helping of JB weld. I then coated all mating surfaces, pushed them tightly together, added some extra JB weld along the broken crack to give some extra bonding surface area. Then once you make sure the parts are as tightly together as possible, leave it alone for 24 hrs. Next just drill out the hole and bolt it down as intended. JB weld is amazing epoxy. I once glued a broken engine block together and the engine worked flawless for all the years I had the car. Just have to make sure you get all parts cleaned. The Leather Machine Company sent me the replacement part, as well as the missing thread guide pin, as well as some touch up paint, free of charge. I've got the class 26 all repaired and working flawless. Now to sell off the two other cylinder arm machines....

The thread guide pin is the silver pin in the top of the machine that has several holes going in different directions. The purpose of the thread guide pin is to take out some of the memory out of the thread. The reason I couldn't find the missing thread pin is because they are now removing them before shipping. I was told by the nice lady fro the Leather Machine Compant. However she said she would look around and send me one. I agree that for some reason the Leather Machine Company has a very sparse manual for their sewing machines. In fact there is no manual at all. Just some full color printed instructions about assembly, and even this is sparse. However I did find their servo motor instructions were very good. It would be nice if they would include a parts listing with exploded view at the very lease. The only thing they provide is instructions about threading the sewing machine purchased. I'm thinking they just figure their customers will just resort to the internet for help with instructions, and exploded views with part listings. The class 26 is just a very good clone of a Juki 341. Now that I got the broken part replaced (take up lever) broke when the machine head slipped out of our hands when lifting it to place on table. We thought we had wiped most of the oil off the machine head after we removed the plastic bag it came shipped in. I read somewhere that they suggested using gasoline to clean the oil from the surface. Not sure about using gasoline, but there has to be many readily available cleaners that will work just fine. Now that its all reassembled, its running like a champ.

Does anyone know where the thread pin is packed on a new class 26 during shipping? I've looked everywhere and can't find it. Yep I looked in the top of my new machine also and its not there. I've went threw all the boxes, the accessories box, and everywhere else I could imagine it would be packed. I would have thought it would have been in the box that the machine head came in. But I've searched every square inch of the foam, and the inside of the box. No luck. There are basically no instructions that come with the machine. It came with a big manila envelope with a bunch of sales info, and instructions for the servo motor. Basic threading instructions, oil locations, but that's about it. I would have thought an exploded view, perhaps a parts listing, and perhaps some trouble shooting info. I will mention for anyone that reads this and is thinking about purchasing a Cobra machine, please clean the excess oil from the machine before attempting to lift the head up to the table. Most of the build videos I've watched, only mention cleaning the surfaces once you have it mounted.I know for a fact what could possibly happen if you fail to clean the machine head first. It could very easily slip out of your hands, thereby possibly hitting the floor, breaking the machine base, possibly the take up lever. Your floor or person lifting the machine could become damaged.I know this from persdv Talk to

Well I can actually say that today was an all around bad day. I zipped on over to the local freight yard to pick up my new cobra class 26 sewing machine. Just for the freight company to try and collect a extra $50 from me. Now the shipping from Leather Machine Company was supposed to be curbside delivery. However to speed up the process I decided to just pick up my order at the will-call dock. I told the clerk that if anything I was saving them time and money. They didn't get their extra $, and I left with my new machine. I arrived at home and went right to work assembling the base. This machine is mostly completely assembled. All you have to do is attach the wheels, thread stand, led-light, machine head, and drive belt. The stand is of high quality, and very compact compared to most tables hat come with similar machines. Now here is where things took a terrible turn for the worst. When my son and I went to mount the machine head onto the table it slipped out of his grip, and I tried to grab a hold so it wouldn't fall and these machines from Leather Machine Company are literally slicker then a greased pig. We were so close to getting it onto the table, however these machines are extremely heavy. Yep, it hit the cement floor, my finger, leg, then I went sprawling when my foot got tangled up with one of the locked wheels. Damage done? Busted one corner off the cast base, and when it bounced over my leg it hit the take up lever guard, breaking the take up lever shaft that connects to the take up lever cam. Luckily I wasn't more seriously injured then the smashed finger which partially broke the machine head's fall, and the scraps and nasty bruises. They tell you to clean the oil off the surface of the machine head once its mounted to the table using gasoline. I think a little warning that said machine may be extremely slippery, and should be wiped down before attempting to lift and mount the head to the base. This would be for safety of the customer, and the machine. I'm in no way blaming Leather Machine Co. at all. I'm just saying besides all those stickers plastered to the shipping pallet wrap about inspecting for freight damage, they could include a sticker that states "Caution, machine head is extremely heavy, and has been vigorously oiled potentially making it unsafe to lift!".. I contacted the company after catching my breath, and accessing the damade. Heather and David at Leather Machine Co. were very understanding, and are sending me replacement parts free of charge! That's called service. I'm thinking this wasn't the first time someone dropped one of their machines. Ill just JB weld the corner tab, and replace the take up lever when it arrives. I'm very impressed with the quality of their product, and their helpfulness. So please use caution while handling your greased pig! (I know, yet again a lengthy post.)

Why would you do that? Your not going to find an easier to use machine. They do take a little tinkering, but once you get the hang of it they sew so nice. Have you called the leather machine company for help? What is your biggest issue?

Hello western Washington from eastern Washington. How goes the battle with your class 26 machine? Are you getting it sorted out? I ordered mine last week and was told 3-4 weeks out which seems strange for a machine that's supposed to be in stock. However good things to those who wait. This machine is close to my New Tech gc-8b cylinder arm machine. Its just all the little things that need to be learned. Thread to needle size, upper thread to lower thread, bobbin and upper tension (probably the most important). Once you get the hang of those few basics it gets pretty easy. My Thor 1541s has dual tension knobs. Try figuring that one on for size. Give me a shout if your in need of any constructive guessing.

Well after playing with clones (cheap clones) I finally broke down and purchased a Cobra Class 26, which is still just a clone of a Juki 341, albeit an expensive clone. I have a Thor 1541s with their srg package. Its a well made machine and Sunny Sewing does a great job with assembly, and setup. It sew perfectly right out of the plastic wrapped pallet. That took care of wallets and card holders, as well as the "fly swatters" I make. However for sewing hats and bags and such you just need a cylinder ATM machine. Being of unsound mind and lack of patience, I was going to order a News tech gc-8b, however the day I got all my pennies together I went to the dealers website and I was shocked to find them out of stock! So there starts my downfall due to the lack of patience. Because I had a set budget, I had to find a cylinder arm machine within my budget. I looked at a lot of different machines,from those TN the $1300 range to the $3600 dollar range. Well my budget was definitely on the lower end. There just isn't many machines at that price point. So I wound up purchasing this less then awe inspiring Yamata yf-335a, which is a poor clone of an old Pfaff 335 cylinder arm machine which was designed to do binding on light materials. I called the dealer and told him I was only mostly sewing leather, and the occasional wooly leather flatcap. Needles to say he told me it would work for leather. I told him the machine I originally wanted and he skirted the answer to my question all the while ensuring my his machine would work. Needless to say I paid the piper. And I still have that bad taste in my mouth. I got the Yamaha to sew well after adding a speed reducer, changing the top plate, feed dog and needle plate from binder to standard machine. Added a left toe presser foot and with some mild adjustments it would sew my flat caps really well. Then, I wanted to sew these bags together using some 135 thread and troubles started. So I tried to adjust the hook timing, and really screwed things up. Worked at adjusting it for hours between numerous YouTube videos on how to set the hook timing. I finally got it to sew after watching a video where it was suggested to set the hook timing by actually watching the interaction between the needle and hook with the needle threaded. Now the Yamata is sewing lighter materials using size 90 thread. Its up for sale as I write this. In the meantime I ordered the gc-8b I originally wanted. It was ordered on Saturday and arrived Thursday even with a holiday mixed in. So I got this cylinder arm machine assembled is half a day. My issue was getting the right size belts with the speed reducer. So with some adjustments and such its now humming along sewing with that 135 thread. This machine is also pretty much a clone of a Juki 341 also. So you ask where does the Cobra class 26 machine come into this story? Well while checking out machines when getting ready to order the New Tech machine, I happened upon the Leather Machine Company's website and looked at their class 3 and class 26 machines. But decided the class 3 would be to much machine for the things I make. So I went ahead and applied for credit on their site figuring it was never going to happen. Well towards the end of the application there was an error and the application failed. I gave up and moved on and ordered the New Tech gc-8b. Then, about a week later, I think it was the morning the 8b was to be delivered by the man in brown, I was going through my morning messages on my cell phone and found one from the credit company for the class 26 saying I was approved for the loan. However I read that only was being given $2000 which was about $1000 less then I needed for the class 26. So I blew it off as I didn't have the extra money to make up the difference. No biggie, I figured I'd just make due with the New Tech machine. So while I was waiting for the man in brown, I got a call from the Leather Machine Company. She wanted to know which machine I wanted to purchase, as the loan approval didn't say on their end. I told her the class 26 machine, but explained it was a mute point as I was only approved for $2000. To which she replied, they approved you for $20,000. I pulled back up the message and sure enough after counting the arrows she was right. So after talking with her about what I make she agreed the class 3-4 would be to heavy of a machine. They will sew heavy leather all day long, but not so well on lighter materials, i.e. wool, vinyl, upholstery leather,as well as elastic banding. She could have tried to up sell me to the class 3 or 4, but she didnt. Hence how I'm now waiting for my new Cobra Class 26 cylinder arm machine. The moral of the story? Save up and buy the right machine the first time, and save yourself a lot of pain, frustration, and money. Also make sure your awake when reading credit acceptance messages. If you made it to the end then congratz.

RockyAussie, you do realize your only talking 4mm difference. Not really enough to make a huge difference. I just prechased a Yamata fy335 cylinder bed machine for sewing hats and bags. This is what I could afford at the time. I installed a 750 watt brushless motor and speed reducer. It’s got plenty of slow speed torque and great handling. I haven’t got to sew any bag gussets yet, but I can guarantee you it’s going too be better then my 1541s flatbed machine. Perhaps later on down the line when I have more money I’ll purcgase a tech sew 2750 pro, or get a go-1341. However, for now this will get me buy. I’ll change out the binding feed dog and needle plate to the regular sewing feed dog and needle plate. Either way, the difference between 11mm and 7mm is roughly 1/8”. Which I’d say in a pinch is easily worked around.

I had the same thing happen with a buddy of mine. I was going to make him a belt for his birthday. I asked him forerunner his waist size and he says 54”. So I made this beautiful belt. When he came to sick it up, the belt was a good 6” too short. I quickly made a short extension and sewed it to the main belt section. I told himno charge if he ever wanted It shortened. He had given me his pants size not his actual waist size. There is a big difference between the two. That is one reason why I don’t stock belts as there are just to many variables, length, color, finish, buckle, much like why I don’t do rings of any kind. Just to many variables.

Hello everyone. Last Friday I received my brand new Yamata fy335 cylinder bed sewing machine. I ordered my machine from All American Sew, Vac and more. I must say that the owner Alex was very helpful. I first contacted him through his eBay store, as I was looking at his listing of a yamata fy335. I had some questions about this machine as I was originally looking at purchasing a go-8b. Both machines were the same price. The eBay listing showed a flatbed style of table. I was interested in a U shaped table. Alex was nice enough to check with his supplier and found out either standard table or U table was available for same price $1200 plus shipping. I will be honest and say the only reason I went with the fy335 is because the go-8b models were out of stock. So I took the plunge after hours of investigating the Pfaff 335 clones. It appears that several industrial sewing machine vendors are selling these 335 clones all with their own “brand” name printed on them. Now all I make are leather goods. I started my long adventure in leathercrafting shortly after my life changing accident when I fractured my neck as well as damaging a lot of soft tissues. So as I’m no longer able to work, my family wanted me to fing something to occupy my time. I started with beaded jewelry, until my oldest son came to me asking for help with a leather project he wanted to make. So that got me headed once again down the rabbit hole of leather working. So fast forward 6 years and 7 hand surgeries later I still love making things out of leather. Last year. Used my stimulus money th buy me a THOR go-1541s Sri package from Sunny Sewing Center in Dallas, Tx. What a fantastic machine. I especially like the walking foot height adjustment knob on top of the machine. So nowadays I sew almost all my flat work on the 1541s. I’ve recently decided to start making more bags and purses. It’s sure tough to sew gussets on a flatbed. Hence my search for a cylinder bed machine. I’d wanted a gc-8b for several years, but just didn’t have the money, and when I purchased the 1541s it seemed the better way to go at the time. Now in hindsight I wish I’d have went with a go-1341 or tech sew 2750 pro, either machine with flatbed attachment. This would have killed 2birds with 1 stone. However at the time $2700 was a whole lot of money for a sewing machine. So, back to my new fy335. I ordered my machine with the U table, and a speed reducer on Monday, and received them on Friday. One other thing I changed with my order was that I upgraded the brushless motor ftom 550 watt to 750 watts. I figured one can never have some extra power under the table. So machine showed up on Friday and got it together fairly quickly with few issues. The table came with L legs instead of K legs which was a little different to work with. My first real industrial sewing machine was a New tech go-0303 which was totally the wrong machine for what I was doing. Thankfully I fount a great buyer for it that needed for sewing vinyl dividers on school buses. So my boys helped me get tha fy335 assembled. I did make a couple blunders along the way having to do with the belt sizes to go from motor to reducer and reducer to machine. I knew the belt that came with the machine wasn’t going to work so I cut it in half to use for measuring belt sizes. I made 4 trips in all getting the proper size belts. If you ever need belts for your sewing machine and don’t have time to wait on a order then check out your local hardware supply. They should carry v-belts in multiple lengths and widths. You want 3L size belts. You can get away with 4L belts, but they are thicker and don’t sit as deep into the pulleys so usually you go up an inch or so in length. Got everything working and set up and even was able to do some test stitches. During this test stitching I realized a couple things, one is that the binder attachments are in the way especially if you need to rotate your leather piece, and the second thing is this may solve my bag issues. The only thing that is irritating is the oscillating bed plate that has the binder attachments. Hence I’ve ordered a blank bed plate for it. The machine actually sews nicely. It may need some slight adjustments. So if anyone out there is in the market for a cylinder bed machine, check out the various Pfaff clone. I’ll have some photos posted soone.

Hey Uwe, that’s the easy answer. However I suppose that’s what I’m going to have to do. It’s just that the bobbin case number that he has listed for the Thor gc-1541s is the same bobbin case number that I’ve purchased from a different dealer for my old machine the new tech gc-0303 which does not fit my new Thor. I suppose at the worse I order from the dealer where I got the Thor from and it not fit. Or on the other hand it does fit and I’m left wondering why two different bobbin cases have the same part number. I just wanted to have the option of buying bobbin cases from less expensive dealers. Just call me frugal. It’s due to my less then stellar income. However I plan on ordering one tonight. Thanks for the advice.

Ok, just for everyone’s information, I just received my brand new shine Kia, no that’s not it.. I just received my brand new Thor GC GC-1541s srg package. First thing it’s one heavy beast. The crew at Sunny Sewing Machines packaged the machine very well. Not only was the sewing table legs bolted to the wooden pallet, but also banded in 4 locations. It took some timme and effort to unpack all the pallet wrap, cardboard and foam I can’t say anything about the other brands as I don’t have one to play with, however with that said my new Thor looks every bit as good as the Consew and Juki 1541’s I saw in a sewing machine shop in Portland, Or. last fall. If you took all the labels and identification tags off and put them side by side in a room I couldn’t tell you was the Juki from the Thor. (This is assuming I’ve never seen any of the ,models previously.) The only thing is lacking is the manual. The one in the box of accessories is plain white paper and say 1541, 1541s. So I assume Thor did not make their own manual for thr gc-1541s. The manual obviously isn’t for my machine. I’ll talk to Sunny Sewing about this later today as most of the stuff covers my machine', with the exception of the adjustable walking foot, and the dual tensioner. Also according to the manual that came with My machine the thread size I’d 46-138, however this does not take into yjrdouble tensioner. q Q

Have you mentioned what machine this is fore. That might help.

So Gregg, we are not comparing apples to apples. The Juki fun-1541s does not come with the walking foot adjustment knob where the Thor go-1541s does, as well as the dual tensioner’s. With the Juki I think you have to go to the 1541s-7 in order to get the height adjustment knob. In your comparison between the Jaguar and Kia, you forgot to mention that the Kia looks great and is a very dependable machine with a 100000 mile warranty. Also you may consider the Jaguar so much better, until it comes to the cost of having one repaired. Also so many that buy Jaguars do so for bragging rights having very little to do with the engineering involved. I guess those of us that can only afford the nice looking and tried and proven dependable automobile will always be looked down upon by those driving Jaguars.Perhaps I’m just cheap? But then perhaps I’m just someone that is buying what’s within his pocket book allowance. If the Juki 1541s had the features of the THOR 1541s and was remotely close in price I’d also buy the Juki. But since it’s not and I don’t have that kind of money right now I have to stick with buying the Kia. I’m sure the drive may be a bit more bumpy, but it’s still going to get me there.

I can attest to tendon issues from hand stitching everything. After 3 years of hand sewing everything from business card holders to steampunk masks, I’ve had to undergo 7 hand surgeries. Then add in months of hand therapy. I still love working with leather, however have slowed way down on my output because of the hand issues. I purchased a walking foot sewing machine last year, it was a clone of a Juki Dani-1181. Now the problem I quickly learned after shelling out $800 for this new machine that the seller on his sales video stated that it would sew leather all day “fast or slow no problem”. It came with a very nice servo motor and control box that was adjustable from 2-45. Sadly I found out that the slowest it would go is “5” and that was like trying to sew leather at 45 mph. Also only being a top/bottom feed machine, it was all wrong for what I was sewing. Most of the leather I sewing was two layers of veg-tan leather. Not only was it wrong speed but also the walking foot and feed dog chewed up the surface of the leather. So about the only thing this machine wound up being any good at sewing that I make is the all leather and wool/leather flat caps I make. So for when looking for a deal on a machine, take my advice and save your pennies and buy the machine that is going to sew the items that you make the most. The heavier the leather the higher the price. There is just no way around it Mikef. So with all this said, I just ordered a Thor go-1541s srg package. Perhaps what is perfect but it has to be a huge step up the sewing machine ladder. I wanted a techsew 2700pro but that was another $1000, which I just couldn’t talk my wife into. I plan to get a medium duty cylinder arm machine later down the line for doing the masks and beads that I make. Thinking of a New-tech go-8b. I like the 441 also but it’s way up in price and more machine then I need. Well good luck with the search Mikef, and try not to overuse those hand tendons as trigger finger and carpal tunnel is no fun.