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About Squid61

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  • Birthday 04/30/1944

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    All leathercraft.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Accessories and artistic; strictly hand crafted, don't have and can't afford machinery.
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    I'm sure to have questions about a variety of topics.
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  1. I don't go nuts with this. I use a Norton dual sided stone for the shaping and rough sharpening, a Tri-Stone that has a medium and fine Arkansas, a fine Spyderco ceramic that I occasionally use more for polishing than sharpening and a strop. Normal use both for leather and wood carving only requires stropping and occasional return to the Arkansas stones. I have always used a push stroke on stones and could never get used to pulling a blade on wet or dry so I just don't use that method. To old to retrain my muscle memory.
  2. I think I'd go with two part epoxy for this. I also agree with roughing up the finish inside the clasp.
  3. I'm by no means an expert in this but I can relate what I do. For my round edgers I make a strop by rounding the edge of the appropriate thickness stiff leather and use it with compound to strop the inside curve, the bottom I simply strop on a flat leather with compound. If they are are truly dull you can start by honing the bottom on a fine/ultra fine ceramic or Arkansas stone before you strop. I have also had some success using an appropriate thickness of cotton cord with compound for the inside curve stropping. One end of the cord gets secured to something that doesn't move and you hold the free end taut.
  4. Stropping is the generally accepted and most prevalent method for refining a blade edge for those applications where a burr free, highly polished edge is desired, in my case both for carving wood and cutting leather. Other cutting applications like the mundane day to day slitting open of mail or packages, cutting string or rope, etc do not require such a refined edge and actually do better with a bit of "tooth" to the edge, so I don't strop my pocket knife. I have never tried sandpaper for sharpening but I do know it was/is very popular, I think it is the basis for the "Scary Sharp" method of sharpening with wet or dry paper on a glass backing. Being an old fart set in his ways I won't be changing my process.
  5. I've tried cardboard, denim and leather - smooth and flesh side and a few various "crayon" abrasive sticks. I finally settled on 1/2' plywood backed smooth leather buffed with around 400 grit wet or dry and powdered Aluminum Oxide. I buff up the leather so it will provide a bit of grip for the powder. I don't care for the wax based compounds because they gum up the strop too much and too fast. The most important thing isn't so much the strop or compound, rather it's how the blade is held against the strop; the angle, on leather, should be just less than the angle of the final bevel so the leather doesn't curl up over the edge and the pressure should be fairly light, again to prevent curling the leather and rounding the edge.
  6. You could sew in welts around the blade areas to protect the stitching and make up some of the thickness difference blade to handles.
  7. Rather than use a set time to decide contact cement is ready for assembly, I use the touch method. The glue on each surface should be sufficiently dry that it can be touched without sticking to my finger, can be a few to 15 minutes depending on the environmental conditions. For stitched seams that in use will be under lower stress I use Fiebings Leather Glue, before stitching, for seams that will be under more stress I use Weldwood or S-18 Contact Cement as well as stitching.
  8. All very interesting. Two points though; someone is going to build "it" because someone wants "it", look around your houses and garages and see how much stuff you have accumulated from cheap sources (many our sworn enemies) before you point fingers. Here in the USA we pay people more than minimum wage to not work, we destroy livestock and cattle if we can't get a high enough price, we raise corn to burn in cars even though it's 15% less efficient than gas and much more expensive, we block oil and gas production forcing us to rely on our sworn enemies for their oil and gas, we're even so stupid as to have all our medicines produced by our sworn enemies and we keep electing self-serving morons to "lead" us!
  9. Perhaps Klara, I prefer wire for ease of warping and lower drag on the warp threads. Might also have something to do with my less than optimal dexterity.
  10. Possibly a well executed vintage DIY project. With some TLC and wire heddles to replaced the strings it looks like it would be a good loom, 6 harnesses provide plenty of design options without being over complicated. Be pretty heavy and bulky to ship very far as an assembled unit and I wouldn't recommend disassembly.
  11. Brings back memories. When I was about 10 and wanted a bike I was informed we couldn't afford one. I went to the town dump and amassed enough parts to assemble a heavy 28" coaster brake beast, had to maneuver around rotting animal carcasses and smoldering heaps of garbage. During the assembly process I got a sometimes painful and often frustrating introduction to mechanics. The most humorous part of my "education" was learning that it's not wise to grease coaster brake shoes, that first ride was exciting when tried to brake!
  12. I gave away a 40" Harrisville floor loom a few years age, the local Weavers' Guild(s) are usually a good way to find an interested party.
  13. There was, still is I think, a product called Lexol that was a pretty popular leather conditioner years ago. It was a liquid rather than cream or wax and really penetrated. Just one possibility.
  14. The stamping results on the "new leather" look like the leather was way too wet. You did try various degrees of wetness though so that is not likely the problem. What are you using as a base to stamp on, I get the best results on granite.
  15. I use mine along with a saw vise and a few various sizes of triangle files. I have half a dozen vintage handsaws that I still use and maintain.
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