Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Squid61

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/30/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    All leathercraft.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Accessories and artistic; strictly hand crafted, don't have and can't afford machinery.
  • Interested in learning about
    I'm sure to have questions about a variety of topics.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    online search
  1. There was, still is I think, a product called Lexol that was a pretty popular leather conditioner years ago. It was a liquid rather than cream or wax and really penetrated. Just one possibility.
  2. The stamping results on the "new leather" look like the leather was way too wet. You did try various degrees of wetness though so that is not likely the problem. What are you using as a base to stamp on, I get the best results on granite.
  3. I use mine along with a saw vise and a few various sizes of triangle files. I have half a dozen vintage handsaws that I still use and maintain.
  4. First I've seen of an in-line handle, both of mine are pistol grip style. I can see some advantage to the in-line design. While there are modern ones available, I prefer the quality of vintage so mine both came from antique marts. It says APEX inside the handle, I assume that's the manufacturer.
  5. The stuff I have is not braided or even twisted so if I'm not careful it will split and pull off the needle. I put a full twist on the thread between the second and third piercing (standard "S" threading) to form a thread lock and it seems to work. I also keep to 30" or less per threading due to the fraying issue. Once it's sewn it seems to hold up well as long as it's not in an abrasive environment, I don't think I'd use it on a wallet. Clarification, I call the passing of the thread through the needle eye the first piercing.
  6. I am deeply grateful for this thread. I played with idea of getting one of the green monsters but now there isn't a chance.
  7. Yes, poke it through from the blade end back out the top and be careful not to damage the blade edge.
  8. You might consider a soldering/woodburning iron with a spade shaped tip; smaller, easy to maneuver and won't eat batteries. I just use a lighter.
  9. I do the same, sand in one direction only.
  10. What thread size best fills the hole and do the holes close well after hammering?
  11. Yep. Came sharpened, just a strop and it was perfect.
  12. I've been struggling with cutting leather since I got into this hobby. I've tried a Japanese style knife and found it far too alien from my normal knife grip to be useful, I tried utility knives and found them too awkward for anything but straight cuts and I tried hobby scalpel/craft knives but they require a finger grip similar to a pencil which my arthritis doesn't allow, I also found the blade flex difficult to mange on tight curves. Since I also work in wood carving using a Mora 122 knife I decided to try a Murphy Sharp Point Leather knife No. 2 with a 3 1/8" blade which is similar to the Mora but with a much thinner blade. What a difference, I can now make straight cuts with ease and following pattern curves is a snap. No more wrist discomfort or grip fatigue and my grip is now consistent between the two hobbies.
  13. I've looked at machines, the REX on Amazon looks reasonable for the casual user at under $400 . Most of the "heavy duty" Singer and such are really not good for much more than garment leather from all I've read. So far everything I've sewn including a few clutches and a purse for the wife look better saddle stitched than they would lock stitched so a machine wouldn't have helped. I don't suffer any pain stitching and can go along pretty fast using a sharp awl, blunt needles and smooth jawed needle nose pliers, I have discovered that awl stabs bleed more than needles but needles hurt worse.
  14. Is the casing .pdf still available? Can't seem to get the link to work.
  • Create New...