Leather20

So I've tried taping a few times on the projects I've done since I first asked this question and I can't seem to get the tape to stick. I've tried taping before casing and after casing but it won't stick. I tried the type in the video and the blue painters tape which a lot of people also recommend. Any tips?

I'm selling my never used, still in original packaging Springfield Leather Co. leather safety beveler. I'm looking to get about $12 + Shipping USD for it, although I'm willing to consider your best offer.

I'm selling a brand new (once opened never used) Springfield Leather Co. Safety Beveler. Please private message me for details if you're interested.

Wow this is amazing!!! I do have a question, I notice you used a cinder block to roll the lace on, can you use any hard surface or is a slightly rough surface nessacary?

Oh! LOL I thought they were yours xD

Yeah, I was planning to use the watch after covering it with plastic and using a fairly lightweight leather. I'm not certain the weights but probably a 3-4oz. Thanks for the tips I'll be sure to post some pics when I'm done. Also, @Hardrada I love your videos! I'm subbed to you on youtube ^.^

This is the only section I can really help you with. For starting using water works fine although edges burnished with water don't tend to weather use quite as well. I use gum trag and I'm trying to learn to use beeswax although that is a work in progress. I'm also attempting to use an edge coat which will give more of the professional rubbery edge you find on high end bags and wallets. Gum trag is cheap and a good place to begin

Very nice! I really enjoy two-tone wallets!

Hello! I'm attempting to make a pouch for a new pocket watch I found and I'd like to try to wet-form the leather around the pocket watch. Does anyone have any tips?

I think I'm going to go with the Fenice Diamond Waterstain that Springfield is selling. I saw their video on it and being able to dye something black in a single coat and his it stay colorfast when water was dumped on it (just buffed, no seal) sold me on it.

I don't think the beeswax is different, it isn't rock hard or anything at room temperature. You can still make indents or wax thread by pulling it over the wax. Although I do use wax from my dad's bees. I also apologize for not being clear, if I use beeswax I don't seal the edge before applying the beeswax. If I don't use wax I seal the edge after the gum trag, normally something like a tan coat or edge coat. Thanks, I will find some canvas and using the wax after a light water burnish. I'm curious as to why people use saddle soap or glycerin to burnish?

Has anyone used the Fenice Diamond Waterstain that SpringField is selling? I'm considering buying some but I'm not familiar with the brand.

VOC dyes, like oil dyes, need to be used in a well ventilated area. Unfortunately, the times that I do the most work is winter time and dying outside or by a window isn't really an option. My space isn't ventilated very well. Thank you, this very very informative!

Agreed, I had a small amount of success using a hand-held dermal powered burnisher but a got a large amount of wax build-up on the burnishing tip. Cleaning that was a nightmare. I've tried using cloth but my buffing cloths are old cotton rags.

Over the last year or so I've been trying to perfect my burnished edges. I've read a lot of people who use beeswax after they burnish their edges but I can't seem to make it work for me. My process is, edge dye, let dry and gently buff, light water burnish, burnish with Gum Trach, and seal. When trying to use beeswax I do it right after the burnish with Gum Trach and I've experimented with sealing or not. My problem is the wax doesn't seem to apply well and after it gets worked on it becomes a hard top coat that will crack and flake. I've tried just rubbing the wax on and also softening the wax before applying it. Any help would be appreciated!