ToddW

I was in my son's room that freed up when he moved out until the wife said it all had to go.. I built my own shop and wish it was bigggggger

I saw a french cleat mounted on the bench top that allowed you to slide things in and out but I didn't like having that on the surface of the bench.. I was thinking of adding a trailer hit mount under the bench to allow me to do that same thing but wasn't sure if it would wobble.. Harbor Freight has these for like $30..

I thought I had responded but don't see it.. I built a 22x12 shed and it wasn't big enough so added another 10 feet to it and its still not big enough.. I have 2 benches..a skiver, a cobra splitter, a cobra class 26, an OMTECH 22x28 laser.. a desk for a computer, a desk for shipping..and a room with shelving for inventory.. with that said, the last 10 x 12 is for riding lawn mower and weed eaters.. I added a black and decker ac/heater/dehumidifier and another humidifier.. I find my self shuffling around my stuff to make room.. my sewing machine, skiver and splitter are on casters so I can roll them in the inventory room.. my benches are more narrow than I like but didn;t have a lot of room.. they are harbor freight oak benches.. my Vevor press on on one of the benches... I bring my heat press, sander/burnisher and hat press from the storage room when not using it.. Attached are my pictures from the inside... I do agree with insulate..insulate..insulate..and as many LED Lights as you can get.. I about 6 harbor freight 5000 Lumen LED lights and 4 lights on the bench.. when I built my shed, I was trying to stay under the radar of my hoa (I got caught and had to submit plans that were approved). I made a huge design flaw in that the pitch of my roof was way to low to stay under the fence line. my first room leaked BADLY.. I ripped that off and put ice and water barrier with a roll on roof onto of that.. no leaks now. the shed is sheet rocked and do have outlets everywhere,.. I only have 1 run of power to the shed and about to have a few more.. the AC and laser draw a lot of power and afraid its to much for 1 circuit.. this was my first real build of anything like this and made mistakes along the way but it does work shed-3.jp2 shed-1.jp2 shed-2.jp2 shed-4.jp2

was going to make a holster for my son's glock and was curious what color brown dye and edge coat to use.. I was thinking dark brown or mahogany.. thoughts?

Great products.. hit me up if you start making products again

no prob at all! I love contributing anywhere I can..

1) How can the Weaver mighty wonder be SO MUCH MORE than the Vevor? Is it because of the swivel head or because quality? (or both?) well the Vevor press is from Vevor which is a pretty high volume shop. I was shocked that they could ship the thing for what they did as it is HEAVY (hard to lift by yourself) and comes in a wood crate. because it is a 2 post clicker, it does limit you to what you can slide under the press. I like the swivel head design a bit better for that reason. cuttong keychains and wallet is a breeze but my laptop sleeves is a bit more challenging. the 2 posts do pull forward if you REALLY pull down on it.. 2) When you say "wish I had the mighty wonder or the BG one", am I correct in assuming that you feel the higher price is worth it? I do like the mighty wonder and BG design better and do think its more substantial allowing it to handle bigger items. I haven't broke down to buy one but am watching the used market for one.. Don't get me wrong the Vevor is working for me.. I am struggling with dishing out that kind of cash after buying a CO2 Laser (OMTECH), 3d Printer (Qidi), sewing machine (Cobra class 26), bell skiver (bought used) and a Splitter (Cobra).. Also have a heat press for my logo, cap press for leather patches...etc..etc..etc.. thats after buying all the nice expensive hand tools (Sinabrooks, Polosanto).. I outgrew the spare bedroom and build a 30x12 shop out back and still out of room.. I WISH I had the money and power in my shop for a small ATOM press but not in the cards.. I will end up getting the Mighty Wonder when some of my inventory starts clearing out.. Hope that helps!

do you use the liquid or bar form of Dr Bronner's Castille Soap?

ok.. I had 2 success after a bit of a science experiment.. I guy in a soap making group on Facebook found a saddle soap recipe using Glycerin and it set just fine.. I then made my recipe using Kirks Castille fragrance free bars grated and that set. I am thinking substituting glycerine soap instead of Ivory (I used Castille soap) messed my ratios up.. Both set just fine... now to find an old pair of boots using one soap on one boot and the other on the alternate boot.. I am thinking they both perform equally. Just don't know which one to make now.. Any thoughts? The Glycerin soap is just a pure soap base so should not have anything harsh in it. Kirks Castille Fragrance free soap claims to be: All Natural Hypoallergenic Skin Care with No Animal By-Products or Synthetic Detergents..Pure Botanical Coconut Oil Soap so both sound like it will be fine.. Thoughts??

I have the biggest Vevor and it does work.. I do have to make sure all is level when doing a big die as it tends to be lower in the back than the front... I wish had the mighty wonder or the BG one..

Went to the store and the had Kirk's Castile Fragrance free soap so going to try to mix up a batch using that.. I have had 2 fails now so hopefully this will be a winner.

I have tried 2 different recipes for a saddle soap that uses: water, soap (I am using a Glycerin Soap vs Ivory) BeesWax and neatfoots oil. Followed the parts/weights....instructions.. to a T.. stirred the mixture as it cooled and it never thickens and stays a white liquid all night.. I am pouring it into a round 4oz tin.. even stirred the first attempt in the can to make sure it wasn't separating.. The receipts / video's result in a paste.. I wouldn't even call mine a cream.. I think I may need to back the water in the receipe way down but don't understand why mine is so different or a failure and the video's produce what I am trying to achieve. Thoughts?

I bought a new cobra Class 26 from Traditions but would have look this way if I knew about it..

What thickness are you using for your wallet?

I am playing around with my leather balm and saw some people adding Vitamin E. Looking around there are different IU values which has me real confused what to order.. 30,000... 45,000.. 60,000. I am no chemist so curious if I am over thinking this and should just order up some off Amazon or if there is something specific for balms I should be looking at? As a side note, I saw a balm today that used cold pressed sunflower seed, Shea Butter, Bees Wax and Vitamin E that looks to be softer and easier to apply than the mix of almond oil, bees wax and coco butter I just mixed up.. Any thoughts??

ok.. sorry for all the posts and questions but in my research mode. I was watching this video on making saddle soap: in it he said to use Neatsfoot Oil but made the comment to use mineral oil if you don't want to soften the leather.. does Neatsfoot Oil in saddle soap really soften that much? just thinking as my backpack and bags are not a stiff leather and didn't want something softening it even more.. Thoughts?

ok.. a bit more questions on this one.. Looks like KIWI saddle soap : Water, Sodium Tallowate, PEG-10, Stearic Acid, Carnauba Wax, Sodium Carbonate, Glycerin, Lanolin, Benzisothiazolinone. Most of the recipes for Saddle Soap have only 3 ingredients which I assume is because they are just grating up a soap bar: 10 parts water , 3 parts grated soap, 1 Parts Neatsfoot Oil, 2 Part Pelleted Beeswax Just looking for some thoughts around trying to order up the kiwi ingredients or just find a bar of soap to grate up.. Looks like they are recommending goats milk soap.. Thoughts??

I know there are a lot of them out there by googling but just curious if anyone has one they used and liked. I made the leather balm which worked out pretty good. Now looking for a good soap cleaner..

well.. emptied the dehumidifer this morning around 7.. by 3 it was full again.. I went to lowes and bought a hose to run the water outside. while I was there, I picked up a few of those plastic bucket DampRids that were like $6.. stopped in the Dollar Tree and they had them for $1.25.. I loaded up.. Will be interesting to see if those things catch any moister as well..

I was making a leather kit with a horse hair brush, dauber, polishing cloth in a leather toiletry like kit and my labels had 1 oz on them.. I am under in all my pours. since people were going to pay for them, I didn't want them complaining I was under filling the tins.. Anyway.. I will measure it..

this is my inventory room

My inventory is individually wrapped in plastic to protect it from scratches.. could the humidity be somehow coming from the inventory?

I was thinking of running calk and foam gap filler everywhere.. When I built it, I put that smart siding, tyvex, insulation and sheet rock.. The roof joists are the only place I can imagine any air is getting in.. Although my humidity reading tend to run higher the lower I put the sensor. The dehumidifier is on the ground as well and read higher than all the sensors on the wall. As I said, its taking out about 50 pints of water day and can't get it below 50%.. as an example, it was at 64% this morning.. I have standalone dehumidifier in the inventory room which is 12x6.. The main work room is 12x22 and am using the AC in dehumidifier mode.. it is running about 56%.. There is a wall and sliding barn door between the two room. Door opening about 6'. it is also insulated..

That was a typo.. was supposed to be pint

I found an instructable article that had you putting the material in a pyrex measuring cup and putting that in a pot of boiling water..... I mixed and stirred without letting it boil in an aluminum cooking pan.. that does seem easier to pour..