PastorBob
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Posts posted by PastorBob
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call Springfield Leather and talk to them. Great folks. I was just there this past Saturday. Tell them what you want to do, and they will guide you into purchasing what you need. If you talk to Skyler, congratulate him on his recent engagement.
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31 minutes ago, AndyL1 said:Thank for the reply! What I'm left with is basically the shoulder size panel. It's thick stuff so not suited for what you've listed. I cut a bunch of it for coasters but I have SOOO much it's kind of a burden. lol It's Wicket & Craig bridle leather (good stuff!)
If your leather products are priced to include the scraps, you could make dog / cat collars and sell them for cheap, donating the extra cash to an animal shelter. Charge enough to cover the hardware and a little for your time, plus whatever you want to donate. You could also make (along the same lines with donations) some of the cancer ribbons...I am thinking ones that are 6-8 inches tall.
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@swortsoul I just started playing with the glowforge. If that is what you have, let me know and I can walk you through the setting I used.
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Sergey makes a good one and you can get it from Springfield leather. Fairly reasonably priced if I remember correctly. His stamps are designed to line up real nice. SLC can get them to you real quick. (Based on the image in @fredk link above, I believe it is a Sergey stamp as well.
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even without the coloration, each one has it's own unique design. Love seeing finished work to inspire me and other crafters. Thanks for taking the time to post the pic.
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very nice! Just made an acrylic stamp using that same exact pattern. Letters are SOO hard to get right. You did a nice job.
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Welcome from SW Missouri. Great folks here and willing to help as you start your journey.
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This is the patina I referred to in earlier post. Glad you found a solution that met your needs.
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Here is one I made using 1/4" clear plexiglass (acrylic) on the glowforge. NOTE: This is for personal use only. Not for resale. Very pleased with the results.
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Nice clean carving. The almost looked stamped! Great job!
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got pics? I actually had it worse. The antiquing smeared my paints all over the piece. When I asked Tandy guy for assistance, he suggested antiquing / staining first, then painting.
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Wow nice detail in the carving as well as the painting! Looks tedious, but great job!!!
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On 9/24/2021 at 5:28 PM, tsunkasapa said:I haven't used it, or any OTHER of the plastic "finishes" in decades. I only put NFO on my projects. In my opinion, NOTHING ELSE IS NEEDED!!!!
i, personally, would AVOID it at all cost! Your MMV.
I normally just use NFO, but have a project that is laser etched. When i rub in NFO it has a tendency to smear char. AND, I have a whole quart of super shene to work through anyways.
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Very nice work! Love the oak motif! One of my favorites. Also really dig the petal lifts you did as well.
Welcome to the forum too.
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2 hours ago, SaintJoy18 said:Should be fine as long as you're not applying it over an oil based dye
Feibing's Pro does have oil in it. Thanks @tsunkasapa. That's what I needed to know. Just didn't want to ruin my work. Do you recommend cutting it 50/50 with water? Or just straight 100% Super Sheen?
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I purchased a quart bottle of Super Sheen (water based) some time back, thinking I would be using mainly eco-flo (water based) dyes. I have since changed direction and am using primarily Feibing's pro dye. My question is, will the water based Super Sheen be an acceptable top coat for the alcohol based dye? Has anyone tried it? If it's a no-go, I can purchase resolene...just didn't want to have to if not necessary. Thanks!
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well done. Loved the scenery and seeing your "finished" shop. I am sure there will be more additions and alterations as time goes by. Ever changing.
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Beautiful work. Always fun jumping on here and seeing talents and abilities put to work. Any daughter would be proud of that fine piece of craftsmanship, 'specially since its from Dad. I am sure there will be even more conversations regarding your work between the two of you. Thanks for sharing!
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22 minutes ago, Danne said:From me?
lol. no. From original poster....I thought you were the OP, but when I scrolled up, I realized you weren't. Sorry for the confusion.
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Just now, Danne said:I have a couple of questions.
How does the flesh side of your leather look? is it very "furry"?
How do you apply contact cement? a thin layer on both pieces and let it dry until tacky?
If you don't flush cut your edge and sand it, do you instantly start to sand after glue? and what direction do you sand along the edge or across the edge?
Do you hammer down or press the edges after gluing together?
pics please
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52 minutes ago, Jenn64 said:Wow Silverd thank you so much for your detailed reply, I haven't checked in for a month or more, hence late acknowledgment
I've never heard of Goof Proof, just looked that up & can't seem to access it in Australia, maybe why I'm oblivious to it, but if I could get my hands on it without paying exorbitant international freight expenses I'd grab some in a flash...but don't like my chances!
Yeah I'll be steering clear of the wet dying unless as mentioned the leather is extra dry or maybe I won't even do that as I find smearing a little neatsfoot also tends to rememdy that problem...nice to know if I run short of neatsfoot I can fall back on saddle oil.
Yeah I love my air brush too, it just offers so much more control, I recently made a "facehugger" mask using the same technique for edges, turned out great, I may have a pic of or two of that! Thanks for colour tips too much appreciated.
Yep you definitely helped!
Jenn
PS Check out the pics...excuse the different colour outcomes between both pics, one is under lights the other in daylight.
Nice work. Very clean, and I like the dye job on it.
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That is really sharp. Never seen that before. By the time I get around to it (not a Round TUIT, lol), I will not remember where this post is located.
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sciving it may help, before sanding. Still not sure where the fibers are if not on the edge.
Cutting Curves?
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YAY! Love a happy ending!