Garyak
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Posts posted by Garyak
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Built my first backpack. Completely stitched on a Ta-king 29-18. With American alligator from the man I’ve looked up to for the last 30 years, Mr. John Fong. Pretty cool to build something with exotics that I got from the man I followed long before social media, every two months hoping he had a piece in the LC&SJ. I read everything he wrote, and put it to work. It’s paid off for me for the last 30 years, and keeps my lead times long. Big thanks for the skills you lernt me Mr. Fong, see you in San Fran soon…
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Looks like a 3-4 Oz pebble grain bag side. Easy enough to match on the pebble grain, as far as feel, you’d have to be there to see if it’s a match.
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Whatever someone is willing to pay, and that’s gonna depend on your work, which looks clean to me. That’s the price you’re gonna get. Here, that would get what you want, elsewhere I dunno. Make sure everyone knows, the 20$ holsters are at the gun store. Genuine.
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On 10/19/2021 at 6:01 AM, Constabulary said:Hoshing servos are another option for "better servos". Not sure what kind of brand RELIABLE is but they at least look quite good but don´t know how well they perform.
https://reliablecorporation.com/collections/motors
I´m using JACK servos and I´m quite please but they are not high end either but they work well for me. And JACK is a known manufacturer of a wide range of sewing machines (at least). I would buy one again.
I just received a new reliable servo for my 145w204. I have servos from Reliable,Techsew, Cobra, Consew, and a gang of enduro pros that I chose a 110v plug for. All work as expected, except the Reliable. The Reliable at 225$ is by far the better motor. It meshed with my 145w like it was meant to be. It has the crawl stitch if you need to sleep between stitches, and more than enough power
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The enduro pro 220v were 35$ on eBay some time back. They’ve been gone for a little while. I have 5 that I run daily at 110v and have done so for a few years. 35$ was too good to be true, I know where there’s one or ten of them available, but the price isn’t to good to be true.
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I think I paid 25$ for 10 m style bobbins for my 145w204. Every sewing site I stalk carry’s them. Price seems similar to the UK. I wonder who’s shipping is more costly. Pretty sure they ship from South Asia. I’m having a hard time finding needle gauge sets. When I found some I knew would fit, 1300$.
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Definitely different machines, but my cobra 29-18 started squeaking a month after I started using it. In the needle bar. Kept oiling it and after awhile it went away. Annoying while present, but I just turned the radio up louder to drown it out.
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I bought a large bag of them in 1994 and just barely started using them. I airbrush everything so would never dye with them. I found applying acrylic sealers, especially in between antiquing could be done with a dauber and achieve the same outcome, without having to clean an airbrush. Dyes are no problem, but acrylic sealers, especially pro resist require constant cleaning. Even using cheap airbrush guns just got easier to throw them away than dig out dried sealer. So after 30+ Years they’re getting used. Now to use the bag of burnishing clothe I got with the same order.
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4 hours ago, jrdunn said:@Garyak, I'm interested. Any tips on what to get (or don't bother with) regarding the Brother?
Jim
Unless you want Disney stuff, don’t get the Disney edition. I don’t care about Disney, so I spent hundreds extra to get stuff I’ll never use. Make sure you get one that operates the roll feeder, just buy the kits to unlock what you need. I told the salesman how much I wanted to spend, big mistake. I went in blind with no reference. He sold me everything and extra everything, just cause I had a budget. Outta 3500$ to spend, I owe 600$. Got some nice heat presses. All of them…. Anyway, I’m sure you can handle it, but the brother isn’t push and play. I’ve heard others are kinda simple compared to the brother. Find another owner to swap ideas with. I wish I did. Must have! Scanning Mats! Low tack-standard tack, long and short. Cutting mats the same. You’ll like it.
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4 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:I have software experience, so I saw the laser as an opportunity to produce perfect edges and hole alignment.
At first I rented a laser at a maker-space. The 100 watt Epilog did a very fine job of engraving, but with a purchase price of $35,000, it was somewhat out of my range. I picked up a 100 watt CO2 laser for $4,500, but the trade-off is that the engraving on my machine is not very refined, so I do very little of it. As far as cutting, it does a great job, but on some heavier leathers I might have to "go over it" a few times to get it to cut all the way through. The trick that I learned is that because the focal point of the laser is what does the cutting and because the leather does not always want to lay flat, using a light adhesive, I glue what I'm cutting to a sheet of stiff "oil board" or "stencil board" that's available from a local art supply store. Then I use weights and /or tape to hold the oil board flat. I must add that I am cutting mostly somewhat stiff heavier leather in the 4-5-6 oz. range. Also, I not only cut out the pieces, I also cut in the lacing holes, as I only hand-sew my bags.
The biggest headache I've had is aligning the laser beam. I replaced the laser tube, all the mirrors and the lens, and it took quite a few tries to get the beam back into play. If the laser is not aligned correctly it will not cut as expected. If you do get a laser and end up needing align the beam, here is a site that you might found helpful.
https://smokeandmirrors.store/pages/laser-beam-alignment-guide
With the laser, I can cut patterns that are almost impossible with a knife, and the edges are cut perfectly (albeit soot covered). The trade-off with laser-cutting the lacing holes is that they are soot-filled, so I can only use dark thread.
Although there are a few trade-offs, I sure hope that is the good news you were looking for, I wouldn't be doing leather if not for my laser. Here is one of my recent bags.
I bought a Brother scan and cut SDX 230 to mess around with and got to thinking about digitizing the lifetime of Tandy’s patterns that were passed down to me and that led to cutting leather on it. Heavier than it says, and heavier than you should sometimes, but why not. It will cut 6 Oz bag side leather all day. I’ve never used the a laser, but I know it runs on the same Kinda Software. My brother I’m limited to 24 inches wide, but I can run endless length cuts, engraving, filigree, embossing, just about everything more than I knew it could do. I got 3 grand in it, but that was for cutting vinyl stickers, I forgot about stickers. I accidentally discovered the best thing I didn’t know I needed. Had to learn from the floor up. Absolutely not one second of any computer skills beyond an Atari 5200 video game. Once I got it, I got it. I imagine a laser could do finer work and probably last longer. I’ve made this thing make some weird sounds shoving veg tan in it.
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Latex is water based. It’ll resist water for long periods of time, but not underwater for a long time. It’ll break down. It cleans up with water so… use pro resist. No need to soak it. Just put it on in coats with an airbrush. If you’ve ever used it when antiquing you’ll know it can resist some wet. Not submerged for long periods. Try a leather from a water based animal. Maybe beaver, I wanna know now. Pro resist.
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Croc is fine for covering anything. I’ve used it from small inlays to covering car seats entirely. Any skin can cover (upholster) anything. Some different methods maybe, but doable.
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7 hours ago, MtlBiker said:Thank you.
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10 hours ago, DJole said:Nice work! How long does it take you to complete one of these?
Not sure, never done just one. Took 2 days to make those. Thanks for the compliment.
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Easy to make and can’t make them fast enough.
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Straight stitches, clean finish, and nice machine. You’re gonna go places, might already be there. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ I’ve got this 68 ford Fairlane you’re more than welcome to display your skills on…… keep rockin it.
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On 3/13/2022 at 7:05 PM, Try1234 said:Hello I'm Manuel Anthony hinojosa and I live in south Texas.western saddlemaking is my leathcraft goal.i look forward to interacting with you guys regarding leatherwork.Stay blessed and here's to you and your current project.
Corpus/Padre island here
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Made a holster for my buddy outta some elephant. Not the color I ordered, but I think he’ll like it. Mag holders and a matching sheath up next.
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John Fong has been around a long time and has a great selection, elephant down to bull frog. SFLC has been a good source, but they haven’t had anything new in forever, there’s Scott over at snapping turtle leather company. Guess what he sells. There’s sturgeon leather outta Russia via South America, and if you flash enough cash there’s some solo folks out there with good stuff that can Hook it up. All kinda pricy, but that’s the way it is nowadays….
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I got this one in last week for my 145w204. Ordered it from sewing machines plus along with a techsew skiver and heat presses for shirts and hats. I went there looking for a speed reducer. Speed reducers and a good supply of brother scan n cuts I can’t find anywhere. The servo came from techsew in Canada is what I’m told. Servo got here in a week, still no skiver. Sewing machines plus, reliable 750w servo 199$. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Amazon also has 1000w Consew servos.
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My grandfather worked for Tandy from the early 40’s -60’s and then moved on to teach the craft at the Texas A&I university, now A&M. I was lucky enough to end up with some very unique and informative learning material. Some Tandy doesn’t have. I use some of my stuff when I’m instructing courses here at our local Tandys and folks tend to catch on fairly quickly. The older books to me are the way to learn. The way it was laid out before us. Learn the tradition and history of the craft, then take it your direction. If the older books can’t be found, the absolute best way to teach yourself is a sub to the Leather Crafter and saddlers journal. It’s worth it to order every back issue they have. Been getting it since it launched. Try it out.
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Anytime I hit a wall, if the clutch pops I free up the jam then push the clutch re engagement button and turn the wheel away from me till it stops and clutch engages if it was set off. However, even after every run, especially super heavy I push same button and turn wheel back till it stops. Doing this brings back any time that was lost hitting a jam. Tighten it up before every run and she runs like a champ. If it wasn’t for a couple fellas from around here it would still be a mess. A lot going on with these rigs, but you can’t beat ‘em.
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This is the best way I’ve found to match Cobra brown paint.
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Cowboy Bob, you’re always ace when it comes to figuring things out. Thank you sir. It has to be what you lay out. The bottom feed is 180 degrees off from the top with No way of evening it out, unless that set screw spun on me. Im pretty sure you nailed. Again thanks sir. Cowboy for the win!
First time backpack build.
in Show Off!!
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Thank you sir. You know, I bet I hear your name brought up twice a week in daily conversation… you’re quite well spoken of. Final finish this morning.