nejcek74

I learnt sewing with modern servo motor with needle positioner. I am buying them in Europe from a big reseller, Strima, they are around 300 euros. They start at 100 rpm minimumspeed I think, 750 we. Thanks to needle positioner I don't miss lower speeds. I do needle up, needle down and I can go step by step when I want. And the needle is always in the right position (locked stitch or open tensioner etc) so working is easy and precise. I don't need and don't want a speed reducer under the table. A jog dial would be useful to limit upper speed which I need to do on the controller. I also miss more robust needle positioner with better and easier fixing to different types of machines. For me a middle priced servos with good documentation and support would be interesting. Efkas prices are too steep, the cheapest Chinese imports are undocumented and have often strange quirks that are difficult to solve

Yes, it looks like there is no positioner. One of my similar low cost servos didn't operate without positioner, even when the function was switched off in the menu :))) I checked his video again and actually it looks that the white pin operates as intended. Or so I guess.

Plastic white pin is for back-pedal. for normal sewing you press the pedal down and the motor starts, the more you press the faster it spins for back pedal you press with the heel, pedal moves up. In my case it is used to put the needle in the up position (used togetehr with needle positioner). While starting / sewing the plastic pin should rest in the lower position. Only when you back-pedal the plastic pin is pushed up. I guess here could be your problem. Adjust your pedal and the rod.

Here is the adjusting manual: https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/fileadmin/dag/Media/Downloads/205/S_204_EN.pdf and a previous topic on the forum linking to Uwe's videos about the machine. I guess that was the video you were following for adjustment? If not, check it. My personal experience: I am still learning adjusting the machine, but I found always the best way to meticulously follow the adjustment manual. No shortcuts. Sometimes I need to repeat the adjusting process few times, maybe something slipped, I did something to tight or too loose or I misunderstood the description. But at the end is always fine and after few repetitions I am already efficient.

What is written on the little shield on the machine?

have you read specifications? Needle system: 134-35 LR Needle size: 80 -100 Nm Max. sewing speeds: 2.800 s.p.m Max. stitch length: 8,0 mm Top feed stroke: 7,0 mm Stitch type: 301 (Lockstitch) Thread type: synth. 40/3 Clearance under the sewing foot: max. 15,0 mm it also says max 3/8'' thickens. I am not used to imperial measurements sorry, but I guess you will be better at that. The name 335 suggest it's a clone of Pfaff 335. You can find a lot of info about that here.

you can also check the adler 68 parts list: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/amfile/file/download/file/3091/category/498/

I wrote you a message with details.

Search on the forum, it was already linked here in few topics. Actually if you Google it, the first result leads back to a post from 2021 😀

There is one on ebay https://ebay.us/m/MZBMPe There are also some Chinese for a fraction of price (24$) that could maybe work. They don't have the sliding wheel on the top. I can do it for 70$ (knee lift) + ca 45$ shipping. But you need to wait at least till Friday when I am back home from a short travel. I need to weight it and check if it is really working.

According to Pfaff 545 Spare parts catalogue is the same as on Pfaff 138, 145 etc. I could sell one for a fair price (which I don't know yet :))) but I don't think there is a point sending it from Switzerland to Texas

When I was first cleaning it, I didn't know the know it is from Bakelite, so it broke in half. i glued it together and put it back it still hurts a little bit. But there is no magic behind it, it's just a simple know sitting tightly on that shaft. After you loose that screw nothing is holding it. Except old oil and dirt.

i can download the "BA Pfaff 138-1" than Hans has attached. I guess some kind of safety check is preventing it for you. Otherwise it is this one: https://issuu.com/davidmannock/docs/pfaff_138_adjust_manual

Frozen zig zag knob is a known problem on this type of machines, here is a video of solving the problem with Pfaff 130. Search this forum for Pfaff 138, there are already posts discussing various problems, including the one with ZZ know:

1) Check first the obvious part as it is written above: - is threading right, is thread moving through the needle, check threading through every single part, i.e. tensions disks, check spring assembly etc. - check the needle, is it bent or damaged 2) is the upper thread going around the hook? 3) check the needle position to hook and hook timing, I suggest using the old adjustment manual for Pfaff 1245 (the successor of 545), needle and hook timing is described in point 5, but I suggest going through everything: Pfaff 1245 Adjustment 89_09.pdf

I am using something similar, but without the spool stand (I am using the main stand on the table). It works without problems and very fast.

I will just give a few comments on Pfaff 145-H4 6/1c LMNP (as I only know Pfaffs) It's a compound feed, high throw H4 machine, i.e. 14mm under the foot at maximum lift. C is for medium to heavy material (C and D have the same hook). It has a safety clutch. The down size of 145 are small bobbins, the same size as those used in domestic sewing machines. This is not a problem when working on small jobs, but it becomes annoying when working on larger runs or with thicker threads. From the pictures I can see that someone has put some effort into the machine, it has a new upper tension piece and new cover plates around the seam length lever. But looking at the table and the pedal, it looks like it has been sitting in storage for a long time after leaving the factory where it was used hard for many years. But this is just my guessing :))) I have a few old Pfaffs and I service them myself. They usually run incredibly well for 50 or more old machines. The main problems I have are those that have been serviced incorrectly, mainly screws that have been over tightened. Some parts are hard or impossible to find, especially inside the machine. Feet, feeders, tensioners, bobbins, hooks and bobbin cases are still available, and you can get them either as original Pfaff parts, which are very expensive, or from China, which is much cheaper but of varying quality. To my European eyes, where Pfaffs are more common, $900 is a steep price for such a machine. I think the reason is that the H4 version is somehow very famous and sought after. As Kgg said, buying a servo motor would be a good idea and it will add to the final cost. Btw. if you are mainly doing marine vinyl, especially for the larger pieces, I think the flat bed is a good choice.

Bernina 216N service Manual: Bernina 217 service manual C.pdf

You never loop the thread around the pin. Pin is there only to prevent disks from turning.

You can use Pfaff 1245 service manual: link

I hope it will not be too difficult or expensive to find a new hook. Thanks for the follow-up, I am sure someone will find it informative.

If I remember it right, yes, you just take it out. Put some oil around those 2 round holes, hopefully the oil will slowly penetrate the hook. Otherwise, you can remove the whole assembly from bellow: You remove the two big screws that hold the part 91-018 402-45 and than you can wiggle it to the side. Probably you will have to the release the gears also and after you will need to time the machine. I think I have to do it when I was bringing my Pfaff 142 back to life, it was terribly neglected when I got it.

maybe take the hook apart and clean it: you need to take the needle plate and the bobbin, unscrew 3 little screws to remove the hook gib (91-018 439-05), than you can wiggle the moving part of the hook (91-018 346-01) out, unscrew the central screw and take the rest of the hook and washer out. Clean everything, put a little bit of oil. Washer and the base of the hook have only one position how they can be put back. When you finally put he moving part of the hook (91-018 346-01) back, you need to be careful that the little extrusion is caught under the needle plate, it should be rotating only for few millimetres.

Pfaff 1245 Pfaff 1242 Pfaff 142 Are you sure you had the right bobbing case? Or the hook assembly? Maybe something was changed for a wrong or unoriginal part, I don't remember any setting for this, bobbin case just drops into the hook. Check the exploded view of parts for Pfaff 545 and the engineering manual for the Pfaff 1245.

If I remember right the temperature/viscosity dependency this one should be around your values: https://www.tsmoly.com/oils-sewing-machine-p-231.html but better ask them. useful online calculator https://fluidpower.pro/temperature-viscosity-chart/ And I would evaluate what it actually means to use a certain viscosity of sewing machine oil in my application. Because it is very different from industrial production where machines are running 8 hours a day at high speed. I use Spirit2 in all my old Pfaffs, which has lower viscosity, but I guess it's ok as I never run machines on full production speed. (I know, assumption is mother of all f*** ups) https://www.spirit-spray.com/spirit-2-vaseline-oil/cat/k-2002053/