nejcek74

Just google "Pfaff 145 parts diagram" and you will get all the links for pdf's of it with exploded views. I can copy a few links here but I think it's best if you pick the one that suits you best. When looking for parts I usually combine a few different ones, there were different editions. For my Pfaff 142 the best one is a really old one, but I still combine it with newer ones to check if the part number has changed. And to time it, I used the knowledge I gained with my 1245, where applicable. I cannot help you with the dismantling, for me finding missing parts, cleaning, oiling and timing is a challenge and I never venture far beyond what is necessary.

Just lower the presser foot bar and start using high shank feet. They work perfectly fine, but it's true, you need to press them on with some effort and precision. I guess, smaller tolerances, Germans love that :)))). More about lowering the bar is here, you just need to loosen one clamp: Here is my 138-6, original foot for comparison, and actually I can still use, as on my presser foot bar there are two holes for the screw. red arrow points the presser foot bar clamp.

if you think something is stuck around the hook mechanism, , I would first: - remove the bobbin and the hook, and check what is going there, you do it from the top If the screws 1 (there are two of them) don't wanna move you can achieve similar (disengaging the hook) by either: - loosening bolt 2 (they are on both sides) and then you can slide the whole hook/bobbin assembly away from the lower clog wheel - or loosening bolt 3 (there are two of them), than you can freely rotate without engaging the hook Doing anything of this, you will have to re-time your machine. And to time it, you need to be able to manipulate those parts (all the screws on the picture). Yes, you need the right screwdriver. Striping the screws will send you on the mission of where to buy them. You can guess how I know it :))) Get the exploded view of your machine and check how it works. btw. I don't own Adler, but my Pfaffs 1245 and 142 look very similar at least in this part. .

what is " vertical cam plate"? are you trying to achieve the full movement of feed dogs? Just asking because my 1245 also moves them only in horizontal direction and I haven't found that problematic. But I like to tinker with my machines, so I will follow your work..... My 1245 was retrofitted by previous owner from 190 to 134 35. I never bothered to buy 190 needles as I use 134 35 in two other machines and I don't need the additional height (similar use as you). Needles are practically the same, but 190 is few millimetres longer than 134 35. With my pfaff you only need to lower/raise the needle bar. A minor annoyance is that if the needle bar is in the lowest position, foot is set to maximum vertical movement and I raise the feet, the middle foot touches the needle bar.

I have a pdf with very nice exploded view, it's taken from here: https://www.occaphot-ch.com/bernina-info/kap-2-setting-service/ you have also some pieces of information here and there about cam mechanism. Download pdfs and read them, maybe they can help you.

I don't know if this are CAMMA disc, but they are for Bernina 217, I think you need to log into the forum to see pictures: https://www.naehmaschinentechnik-forum.de/viewtopic.php?p=119667&hilit=bernina+217#p119667 You have this overview: and also every single cam with a number:

I guess such price is because of free delivery, I guess Germany and France, and everything else is paid. Price to Switzerland is also much higher, 135 CHF

There are chain stitch machines :))), they don't have the lower thread. As I see it, that is the engineering solution for the problem of uninterrupted stitching.

no, the stitch will not form. For reverse stitch only the feed dogs (and walking foot) moves in the opposite direction. The hook needs to oscillate in the same direction. In general it is not a good idea to turn the wheel in wrong direction.

1 means flat bed machine 4 means horizontally placed hook 5 means single needle + walking foot subclass 6 = for general work B I am not sure, B as standalone means needle, hook, feed an plate for light fabric (A = thin, B = light, C = medium, D = Heavy), but you have 6B and not 6-B H = high throw L = leather they can have different needle systems, according to subclass Pfaff-Industrial-Machines_Descriptive-Information_Searchable.pdf · version 1

This looks to me like the official US site, but few things on the page are in German :))) https://mauser-spezial.us/manuals the second one is user manual for MH 2645 and it has 25 pages. Or you are looking for a service manual?

here is link to adjustment manual https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/db-downloads/technicaldoc/justieranleitungen/300/ja_335_11-15_en.pdf/%40%40download/file/JA_335_11-15_EN.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiw1s39yu2IAxXPhv0HHbtnFy4QFnoECAYQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2VOmT4xRzYBqKvIHAfTiF1 adjustment "Needle position to needle hole" is on page 8, and is one of the first when doing the timing adjustments. Everything else you need to know/follow is there too.

maybe follow the complete timing setup as is written here: https://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff 245, 1245%3B 246, 1246 Service Manual.pdf setting the right distance of those two gears is also a part of the set-up (5.8 somehow vaguely written, but I think one can understand what they meant: not to tight, not too much play, I was spending some time with that till I was satisfied). After I bough the machine I learned how to to do the whole set-up and after I never had problems.

I have Pfaff 1245 706-47 CSMN, where "706-47" means the top feed lift during the operation is 7 mm, and C is needle rise bar rise of 2 mm. Top feed lift varies between variants -706/05 > 5 mm and 706/08 > 8 mm. I think the H4 has the highest feet lift. Anyway, as far as I know all variants have same feet! There is a difference between some piping feet (my is shorter) than "ordinary" feet. I have some from the original machine, some bought on Aliexpress or Amazon and some at KHSew. All those feet are of the same height. There is "top-to-bottom-feed timing" setting, where you set that the vibrating presser make half of the motion above and half below the presser foot sole. It's part of the timing sequence in the service manual. Before buying new feet I would suggest to go through the whole timing procedure, because the settings are connected. I think you can use Pfaff 1245 service manual:, https://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff 245, 1245%3B 246, 1246 Service Manual.pdf btw, I am pretty new to these, so take my advices with grain of salt

Download service manual for 1245, like this one: https://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff 245, 1245%3B 246, 1246 Service Manual.pdf. follow the whole process from the beginning to the end. There is written which step to skip if you don't have 4 motion drop feed. You don't need all the tools but for sure it is easier with a c-clamp and those measurements things (I finally found them somewhere on the net). I have an older 1245 without 4 motion drop feed, and this was my first machine that I timed with the help of this manual. I did have problems with two baked screws and at some point I also came to a something similar situation as you. Everything was somehow off. I just started again, being sure that each step is properly done. It took me few evenings, now I think I would be done in two hours :))))

I have a similar Pfaff 1245, it doesn't have an oil reservoir. It has exactly the same original plastic casing for grease as yours. Online you can find different manuals with exploded view for the machines through the years and you will see there are many versions. Also, for timing I mostly followed the old engineering manual but for one setting I found information in the engineering manual for the new machines. I would say the changes came gradually through the years and some things you need to find for yourselves. Btw. machines in production could be set very differently than the original version, my was using different needle system (much shorter), I just timed it back to original.

I don't have any problem downloading them, either you were not logged in when you were trying to download them, or some other safety settings of your browser / system are preventing it.

Which needle system is using your Pfaff 145. As I can see in the manual it is: H1-H2 system 134, H3 system 134-35, H4 needle system 190 which are all needles with 2mm thick shank,. Is yours one of those? Here are few more links: I think this is the manual for the old type, but without parts: https://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff 141, 143, 145, 151, 153; 142, 144, 146 Instruction Manual.pdf diagram with wth parts and remark (old), but the number of the needle bar is the same as above: https://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff 145, 145-6, 145-906, 145-225, 145-333 (Old).pdf

I own a Pfaff 1245, old casting, and am very positive about it. First a disclaimer, I am a hobbyist and I make projects, not products, so my experience is limited. I have owned the Pfaff 1245 for half a year and it is my first industrial sewing machine for heavier material after the Pfaff 138 and Bernina 217, both zigzag machines for light material. I learned most of what I know reading this forum, or at least it was the starting point. Why did I choose it? Mainly because of the second-hand market where I live in Switzerland. In short, Singers are rare and Adlers, like older Pfaffs, have a certain cult status and are illogically expensive, going up to €2,000, whiled at the same time sellers don't even know what exact model they have. The Pfaff 1245 seems to be underrated, I guess it must have been the main machine in the automotive/upholstery industry at some point when it was still present in Central Europe. So far the 1245 has worked without a hitch and here is what I like about it: - You can find comprehensive instructions on how to time it. I have learnt the skills on it and it has given me the confidence to tackle the other two machines. It is very helpful that these are the original Pfaff instructions and not the various bits of advice you can pick up here and there on the web without knowing who to trust. - As this model is still in production, it is easy to get spare parts, especially from the aftermarket. Unlike the Bernina 217, but also the older Pfaff 138, where finding the right screw can sometimes take days and be expensive. - I find it quite robust, to be honest I'm still in the testing phase, trying different needles and threads without going to extremes (Tex 40 - 90) and I haven't encountered any major problems yet. My limited advice is to check the availability of documentation, spare parts and especially needles and presser feet. As you are in the EU you should contract what is available there. Sometimes it is really hard to find the right supplier so that postage is not prohibitive.