nejcek74

1) Check first the obvious part as it is written above: - is threading right, is thread moving through the needle, check threading through every single part, i.e. tensions disks, check spring assembly etc. - check the needle, is it bent or damaged 2) is the upper thread going around the hook? 3) check the needle position to hook and hook timing, I suggest using the old adjustment manual for Pfaff 1245 (the successor of 545), needle and hook timing is described in point 5, but I suggest going through everything: Pfaff 1245 Adjustment 89_09.pdf

I am using something similar, but without the spool stand (I am using the main stand on the table). It works without problems and very fast.

I will just give a few comments on Pfaff 145-H4 6/1c LMNP (as I only know Pfaffs) It's a compound feed, high throw H4 machine, i.e. 14mm under the foot at maximum lift. C is for medium to heavy material (C and D have the same hook). It has a safety clutch. The down size of 145 are small bobbins, the same size as those used in domestic sewing machines. This is not a problem when working on small jobs, but it becomes annoying when working on larger runs or with thicker threads. From the pictures I can see that someone has put some effort into the machine, it has a new upper tension piece and new cover plates around the seam length lever. But looking at the table and the pedal, it looks like it has been sitting in storage for a long time after leaving the factory where it was used hard for many years. But this is just my guessing :))) I have a few old Pfaffs and I service them myself. They usually run incredibly well for 50 or more old machines. The main problems I have are those that have been serviced incorrectly, mainly screws that have been over tightened. Some parts are hard or impossible to find, especially inside the machine. Feet, feeders, tensioners, bobbins, hooks and bobbin cases are still available, and you can get them either as original Pfaff parts, which are very expensive, or from China, which is much cheaper but of varying quality. To my European eyes, where Pfaffs are more common, $900 is a steep price for such a machine. I think the reason is that the H4 version is somehow very famous and sought after. As Kgg said, buying a servo motor would be a good idea and it will add to the final cost. Btw. if you are mainly doing marine vinyl, especially for the larger pieces, I think the flat bed is a good choice.

Bernina 216N service Manual: Bernina 217 service manual C.pdf

You never loop the thread around the pin. Pin is there only to prevent disks from turning.

You can use Pfaff 1245 service manual: link

I hope it will not be too difficult or expensive to find a new hook. Thanks for the follow-up, I am sure someone will find it informative.

If I remember it right, yes, you just take it out. Put some oil around those 2 round holes, hopefully the oil will slowly penetrate the hook. Otherwise, you can remove the whole assembly from bellow: You remove the two big screws that hold the part 91-018 402-45 and than you can wiggle it to the side. Probably you will have to the release the gears also and after you will need to time the machine. I think I have to do it when I was bringing my Pfaff 142 back to life, it was terribly neglected when I got it.

maybe take the hook apart and clean it: you need to take the needle plate and the bobbin, unscrew 3 little screws to remove the hook gib (91-018 439-05), than you can wiggle the moving part of the hook (91-018 346-01) out, unscrew the central screw and take the rest of the hook and washer out. Clean everything, put a little bit of oil. Washer and the base of the hook have only one position how they can be put back. When you finally put he moving part of the hook (91-018 346-01) back, you need to be careful that the little extrusion is caught under the needle plate, it should be rotating only for few millimetres.

Pfaff 1245 Pfaff 1242 Pfaff 142 Are you sure you had the right bobbing case? Or the hook assembly? Maybe something was changed for a wrong or unoriginal part, I don't remember any setting for this, bobbin case just drops into the hook. Check the exploded view of parts for Pfaff 545 and the engineering manual for the Pfaff 1245.

If I remember right the temperature/viscosity dependency this one should be around your values: https://www.tsmoly.com/oils-sewing-machine-p-231.html but better ask them. useful online calculator https://fluidpower.pro/temperature-viscosity-chart/ And I would evaluate what it actually means to use a certain viscosity of sewing machine oil in my application. Because it is very different from industrial production where machines are running 8 hours a day at high speed. I use Spirit2 in all my old Pfaffs, which has lower viscosity, but I guess it's ok as I never run machines on full production speed. (I know, assumption is mother of all f*** ups) https://www.spirit-spray.com/spirit-2-vaseline-oil/cat/k-2002053/

I have a Pfaff 1222. It was my second machine and I fell into the "sturdy old machine" trap. It's a nice running machine with the IDT (Integrated Dual Feed) that excels with all kinds of slippery, soft, extra thin or soft and thick fabrics. But it doesn't work well with thick woven fabrics or leather, which are difficult to punch. I used it to make my first canvas bag. Poor machine, I still feel sorry for it. And it's an old domestic machine, it's slow. Maybe it could work for small pieces, anything else it's no fun. Then I found an used industrial Pfaff 1245 for 400€. Similar numbers but a completely different machine.

could this work? Pfaff 438 is a successor down the line of 138? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272681727610?chn=ps&_ul=GB&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&gQT=2 btw, this are generic Chinese products, price is in line with workmanship. Here is something similar but with different number, and it's written for 4mm zig zag https://planetecouture.com/en/needle-plates/19400-plaque-aiguille-pfaff-138-rfrence-91-026-512-04.html but maybe it's the same on those from your catalogue?

there are many manuals on internet, but I couldn't fine something exactly for 169. Service instruction 69-343 DE-EN language than you have this post on leather worker forum: A German only service manual for Adler 169 and so on

to me it looks exactly like connectors used on computer power supply units and motherboards, this one on my picture is cable from motherboard to hard disk, or the 24 pin PSU ATX cable: you need to find 2 pin connector, sorry I don't know the name of this type, maybe someone else will jump in soon CPU-Power-Cables-4-Pin.webp

Strima use the same socket on their controllers (I use them), but it makes no sense to order only a few items from them (the transport costs are too high). I got something similar from Aliexpress, but the polarity was wrong, so I had to rewire it. You can also get these things on Amazon. The controller and the lights are generic Chinese products, they are all over the place, with different names and hard to know characteristics. So some guess/testing is required. btw. the title of your post is somehow lacking :))))

I know this is an old post, but for future reference, this one is threaded incorrectly, from the tension discs the thread should go directly to the thread controller. Do NOT go around the pin/post as in the picture above!

As I don't trust Aliexpress too much, I bough this one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Canilla-Machine-8-000RPM-Controller-Accessories/dp/B07SDP5FHB?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 I run some small industrial machines with it: a Merrow butt-stitcher, a Yamato over-stitcher and a Dearborn blind-stitcher. Frankly I don't know if they are any different than usual ebay/aliexpress motors, but at least you know whom to complain.

If you check part lists of Pfaff 1242 subclasses, they go up to 72 mm. 1242 is double feed, feed dog and needle fed so it is more an upholstery than a leather-working machine. Btw I have one with a simple 4,8 mm gauge that I use for flat felled seam on fabric. PFAFF 1242 parts.pdf p.s. you didn’t wrote what kind of material and what thickness you would like to work with.

another thought: use needle synchronizer I have a 750W servo motor (brushless) with electronic control box and external synchronizer on the sewing machine. I don't know how many coils it have, it was the upgraded version, but it could be just a PR thing. The low speed is 100 rpm but what actually makes it great is the synchronizer. Pedal down > needle down, pedal up > needle up. There is no problem with speed as I can go step by step when I need it. The needle is always in the perfect position, when the loop is already made (down) or when the thread is unlocked and good to move (up). I used one table with the motor with different machines, each has it's own synchronizer fixed.

Here is a video of rebuilding the machine (in 6 parts) from a retired Bernina mechanic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVbA1gH1dWY&t=9s and here he is adjusting the Bernina https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoXRnmFJ2N8 but as far as I have seen, there is nothing about the cam box in those videos. Do you have the exploded view of Bernina 217: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.supsew.com/download/Bernina/Bernina%20217.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjVos3-l-OKAxUmhv0HHVz6MPQQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1R4bnPRV_xIhOwSZW3inpU good luck, post the results of your work here :))))

Just google "Pfaff 145 parts diagram" and you will get all the links for pdf's of it with exploded views. I can copy a few links here but I think it's best if you pick the one that suits you best. When looking for parts I usually combine a few different ones, there were different editions. For my Pfaff 142 the best one is a really old one, but I still combine it with newer ones to check if the part number has changed. And to time it, I used the knowledge I gained with my 1245, where applicable. I cannot help you with the dismantling, for me finding missing parts, cleaning, oiling and timing is a challenge and I never venture far beyond what is necessary.

Just lower the presser foot bar and start using high shank feet. They work perfectly fine, but it's true, you need to press them on with some effort and precision. I guess, smaller tolerances, Germans love that :)))). More about lowering the bar is here, you just need to loosen one clamp: Here is my 138-6, original foot for comparison, and actually I can still use, as on my presser foot bar there are two holes for the screw. red arrow points the presser foot bar clamp.

if you think something is stuck around the hook mechanism, , I would first: - remove the bobbin and the hook, and check what is going there, you do it from the top If the screws 1 (there are two of them) don't wanna move you can achieve similar (disengaging the hook) by either: - loosening bolt 2 (they are on both sides) and then you can slide the whole hook/bobbin assembly away from the lower clog wheel - or loosening bolt 3 (there are two of them), than you can freely rotate without engaging the hook Doing anything of this, you will have to re-time your machine. And to time it, you need to be able to manipulate those parts (all the screws on the picture). Yes, you need the right screwdriver. Striping the screws will send you on the mission of where to buy them. You can guess how I know it :))) Get the exploded view of your machine and check how it works. btw. I don't own Adler, but my Pfaffs 1245 and 142 look very similar at least in this part. .

what is " vertical cam plate"? are you trying to achieve the full movement of feed dogs? Just asking because my 1245 also moves them only in horizontal direction and I haven't found that problematic. But I like to tinker with my machines, so I will follow your work..... My 1245 was retrofitted by previous owner from 190 to 134 35. I never bothered to buy 190 needles as I use 134 35 in two other machines and I don't need the additional height (similar use as you). Needles are practically the same, but 190 is few millimetres longer than 134 35. With my pfaff you only need to lower/raise the needle bar. A minor annoyance is that if the needle bar is in the lowest position, foot is set to maximum vertical movement and I raise the feet, the middle foot touches the needle bar.