Saddlebag

The rawhide on the forks and cantle was popularized in the 1990's. This is a modern saddle, probably a Ralide tree and synthetic fleece lined skirts. New it was moderately priced, Today new it would fetch maybe $700. It is a factory saddle.

I had to loosen the front of the skirts on one and instead of a screw and a few nails or staples I pulled a handful of staples, close to 50! I suspect the trigger on the power stapler was too fast for the operator. Or someone was getting back at a boss.

Never heard of it. 352 is likely a catalog number. It appears it would fit someone with a rather generous bottom.

This is not of the same Great West Saddlery that made many fine saddles in it's hey day. What is the tree made of?

The vice grips worked but on the leather concho underneath. There was no way anything would budge so I tapped the blade of a big screwdriver, one I'd sharpened the blade on, under the leather concho to wiggle it a little. Had to work around it as much as possible. Then when I applied the grips - success. Once the leather concho began to turn the metal one did also. Dontcha just love jobs like this!

I'm going to try vice grips. I'll also research hog ring pliers. Thanks.

Owner wants saddle strings installed. Because it has screw-in conchos I'm adding the steel D ring with the flange. Fronts are done. Cannot get the two rear ones to move. They are under the Cheyenne roll so space is a bit limited. I'm hoping someone can offer suggestions. thanks

What is the best way to cut the slits in the saddle strings? I've been using a box knife but it is slow as I have to be very careful. Surely there's a better way.

Do you know if the tree is Ralide - golden yellow that looks like plastic. Do you have a pic of the underside? What is the seat size. The saddle, I don't think, predates 1980.

The TexTan numbers denote year it was made, month and model number.

I hope you removed the old stitching. I did that on a bridle and it came as a surprise how time consuming it was. I didn't bother to relace it as once it was soaped and oiled, the slits seemed to close right up.

It appears mice have nibbled the rear seat jockey on the near side. This saddle is likely from the 60's, going by the style of the horn and the extra leather on the gullet. Saddles were very well made back then. I have a Simco roper from that era and it's one tough saddle. These saddles are well designed and reduce the jerk on the horse when a calf hits the rope. The extra leather on the forks protects them from the rope. Going by the market in my area I'd start at $650. People will try to talk you down so if you can get $500 you're doing ok. Not everyone appreciates a well made saddle, they go for the pretties.

My all cast iron Pearson was put on a pallet then a a k3 board box was built around it. This could be loaded by machine. We slid it into the back of a pickup to bring home then dismantled it and moved it with a wheelbarrow right into the shop.

This is a roping saddle so it should carry a higher value. The buck stitching was popular around 1970. The website will tell you when they starting using the metal plate to identify everything about the saddle, make, year, style, color, etc. Not sure when they started using the stamp on your saddle.

From my experience a saddle like this will fetch about $325-350. It is a saddle women find comfortable. This is part of a line of moderately priced saddles that many manufacturers put out.

It may be a plastic which encases thin cardboard. If so, anything you put on it will come off. If a soft toothbrush and soap doesn't remove it I'm afraid you're stuck with it the way it is.

To get rid of squeaks the saddle is turned upside down and dusted with talcum powder in the nooks and crannies. This usually shuts them up.

I'll take a long shot and say late 40's, early 50. In late 50's the cantles were getting lower. The basketweave pattern was also popular then. Have you looked high up under the fender on the driver's side. Sometimes companies put their identification on the skirt, just below the tree.

Kelperts, buy the collar, make your pattern and return the collar for a refund. Works for me!

One of the main functions of fleece is to prevent the saddle pad from scooting out from beneath. Real fleece acts as a bit of a stiffener and provides a modicum of cushioning. During WW1, when sheep wool was so in demand, saddles were fleeced with various other hides with the hair on, some even with the blue felt. The fleece is showing how the tree wasn't a real good fit for the horse, a little narrow at the top of the bars. IMO you haven't shown us anything that really needs attention altho it is nice to have it looking 100%.

Someone has identified the stamp as being Western Saddle Company. Could be but I'm hoping someone can confirm this along with perhaps a little history of the company.

Not able to get good clear pics but upon closer examination when the light was right it's a western saddle that lies across the W. The W is 1.5" high and a little wider at the top of the letter.

I do this outside. I'll pretty much soak the back side of the leather then use a nail brush and a bar of lanolin hand soap. I'll wet my hand, lather and apply as many times as needed and let this all set for 10 or so minutes to let it help lift the gunk. Then armed with the brush, I start dunking it and applying clean water starting at the top of the fender and letting the water run down. Mind your feet because the mud will be flowing. When there's no longer any mud, the saddle sets outside out of the sun for the rest of the day to help it dry. That method seems to get the fenders about as clean as they will ever come. The next day while the leather is damp the topside of the fenders are oiled. I prefer to warm the oil and paint it on with a brush kept for this purpose only. I will assess the leather in about 5 days time as that's about how long it takes for the oil to penetrate deeper into the fibers. (I worked in restoration and had to learn about the molecular structure of leather)

Saddle dates possibly back to the 60's. Good quality. Horn only is marked with a large W with a rectangular marking across it. It's worn so not able to see if anything else was imprinted. Any ideas? I should know but at this late hour it's eluding me.

When a teen I rode in one similar to this. After a two hour ride I could barely walk and my butt was so sore, sitting was out of the question. By then I'd ridden in quite a variety of both English and western saddles and to this day I've never ridden in one as uncomfortable as this. I'd give it a good cleaning and go from there. Was the horn ever covered? The one I rode was bare metal. I know that if the leather was ever burnt off from roping, it was just left like that.