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Found 9 results

  1. Hello, I have a client wishing to repair an older Stubbed Saddle. The work will include new billets and replacement of the knee rolls. Currently there is nothing in the rolls, no padding, horse hair or frock and the top leather of both pockets are torn. I plan to drop the front of the saddle to gain access to the billets and will remake and sew in new pocket top leather as needed. What is the preferred and proper padding material to use? Thank you in advance, Silverd
  2. I was going through some pictures and found my file of a English style saddle I made a year or two ago. I have about 100 or 200 pictures of the stages of making this saddle. This is just a few stages.
  3. Hello, I'm just getting started in making minor saddle repairs and have an English Riding client who needs new stirrup leathers. As with most things in the leather and especially tack making world, what initially may look simple generally is not! Im finding that stirrup leathers are made with a nylon liner and some with not. My mentor / saddle maker has informed me that the straps are typically made from a single strap of Stirrup Butt...only available from Abbey England that I have found, but i have not pursued German suppliers. And its expensive! What is the right solution? Are matrix straps with nylon strapping sewn in also made using Stirrup Butt or a lesser cost leather? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated Silverd
  4. I haven't posted in these forums for quite some time so hoping it's still fairly active. I got this saddle in for billet replacements but I've got the issue of not being sure how to drop the panels on an english saddle with the single roll up front, and I would just wiggle the needle up in there but this second rivet/tack is holding the flap down too tightly to get to the front billets(they all need replaced on both sides). I'm not sure if there is a tool that can safely get under the rivet, or if someone knows where to pop seams along the front on a single roll saddle and still be able to put it back together or do I need to just tell them that front billet is a lost cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated; I've done billet replacements before but the saddles always had the double roll up front where you can easily pop and replace the stitching to just drop the underside down and out of the way.
  5. I have an Antarés close contact saddle I've been asked to repair. In short, I'm trying to identify the best thread for the job. I need something tha's very resistant to UV and is extremely abrasion resistant. What do you recommend? There was a wonderful reference page that compared characteristics of thread types I thought I found on this site ages ago. Unfortunately, I haven't been successful in relocating it. If you know what I'm talking about, any idea where to find it? More context: The owner doesn't want to have the whole seat replaced but asked for me to repair a tear on the edge where it is sewn to the jockeys and the rider's thigh rests.
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJcAbVZojEQ This video shows how the knee pad is put together in a English style saddle. I have added other parts of this saddle making under the name of uksaddlery on you tube. I hope these videos are of some use to people.
  7. Hi Guys I am about to start teaching a few courses on leather work at my new building in Scotland. The first course I will be doing is a 12 day course ran over 2 weeks. This will be making a English style General Purpose saddle or a English style dressage saddle. The Course will start on the 27th July and finish on the 8th August The cost of the course is £1200 pounds this is about $1800 dollars at todays exchange rate. This will include Materials. And you get to take your saddle home with you. I am setting up a website and have a temp one running where you can see a bit more information The temp web address is albionsaddlery.com in time this will move to my main web address uksaddlery.com. If you have any questions please feel free to email me at sales at uksaddlery,com
  8. I have a very nice, but old, Passier english saddle that is brown (Passier uses exclusively vegetable tanned leather for their products). I'm thinking about using vinegaroon to blacken the saddle and had a few questions (total newbie). 1. Passier states that don't use any artificial finish. Now since this isn't a dye, do I still need to strip/use a deglazer for the oil in the leather from past conditionings? 2. Would it be ok to "paint on" the baking soda/water mix since I won't be able to literally soak the saddle (size and it has wool flocking)? 3. How long does the color typically last (on the saddle)?
  9. Aiken, South Carolina: English Saddle Manufacturer seeking energetic and dynamic individual to help carry our USA production forward. NO slow minded craftspeople or artisan craft types please, with no offense to the aforementioned. Sorry, but we aren't looking for a wood whittler, no offense to wood whittlers either. Looking for the right individual to help expand our USA saddle manufacturing. We are looking for someone who gets stuff done and doesn't take a 6 months to make a saddle. This is english saddlemaking. Ideal candidate will have a knowldege of machinery and tools and have a command of their ability to make things. No English Saddlemaking experience necessary. Saddle background or wood working or any kind of hands on trade a plus. Training and tools provided. We are in Aiken, South Carolina. www.mysaddle.com. Check us out and if interested email cary@mysaddle.com. Email inquiries only. Please no written submissions or phone calls as they won't be answered.
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