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Showing results for tags 'making'.
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Hello all, I have been using fiebings pro oil dye on all of my dyed projects. I do like the way that it sits in the leather, but I am the type of person that would much rather use a more natural alternative when it comes to most methods. I have heard about using cold black coffee to darken leather, as well as multiple light coats of extra virgin olive oil left out in the sun. I am more keen to these types of methods. I was wondering if anyone knows of, or has had any experience with, making their own plant based leather dyes? I have heard of people using organic material such as: onions blueberries cedar walnut husks alder blackberries elderberries fern fronds etc... I do have access to these items, but I am unsure of the process in which to get the pigment out of the item, as well as applying the dye, and storage. Edit: Do you think this method would work for dying leather? http://pioneerthinking.com/crafts/natural-dyes Thanks! Zayne -
I'm making a bifold wallet with the dimensions to fit up to UK-currency (Maximum bill height 85mm) I will update with some photos during the construction. I start with some drawings and a couple of photos, and will add a couple of more photos until it's finished. Ask if you have any questions. (Disclaimer: Self taught hobbyist, so construction methods are what works for me) Some information about materials used. Exterior leather: Black vegetable tanned semi-aniline Interior leather and lining: Goat leather Structur material for pocket sections: (sandwished between top and lining) Freudenberg Vildona SH-1220 Edge paint: Fenice Pricking irons: Ksblade 9spi/3mm Awl: Modified Seiwa diamond awl Thread: Xiange Twist #30 (0.38mm) or #35 (0.30mm) I haven't decided yet Glue: Renia Aquilim 315 / Renia Syntic Total Creaser: Regad F2, FN2 Drawing: Printed template (Of the finished dimensions): Card pockets cut: Card pockets creased and painted: Exterior lined: -
So I am getting over being sick as a dog. Another sinus and asthma issues.... I got to play around with the thin air press my wife found and got me from Roar Rocket for molding holsters. This thing is awesome! Love it makes molding so much easier. It's normal use is for veneering and making skateboards. Anyway... so with my blueguns I have been using a pencil taped to the top with clear gorilla tape as a site channel. Is this a best practice or is there something better I should be using? Some of my holsters will have safety straps but others will not so I want a nice snug fit hence the reason we spent $60 on the thin air press from Roar Rocket. Just want to make sure I am doing things smart and not an outdated way if you know what I mean.
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Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
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Hello all, First off, Ill start by pointing out that I am not a shoe/boot maker and have never made a pair. I have absolutely no experience in this field although I have been leather crafting accessories for a few years. That said; I'd like to take a stab at making a rough pair of boots. I'm not really interested in learning how to carve a pair of lasts out of wood at this point as it seems that this is an art of its own. Rather, I'd like a more simple way of making a pair of lasts. I've done a bit of reading about using a pair of old boots/shoes to pour some sort of resin/foam into to get a rough last shape out of, then shaping it. The problem is, the only information I've found about a substance which can be nailed into without cracking is this smooth-on foam #25. Which apparently is dense and rigid enough to put a nail into, but flexible enough to avoid cracking, according to a user in another thread. This foam used in combination with a thin layer of bondo apparently will do the job for a couple of pairs of boots/shoes. Problem is, this foam is $185 a gallon. This is completely unreasonable for me as I'm just doing this as a hobby. I also wonder if this foam would be rigid enough to stretch the leather over without altering the shape of the "last". Is there some other resin or plastic combo or otherwise I could use to achieve a "nail-able" and rigid material? Could I just melt some recyclable HDPE? Or would that deform the shoe I plan on using to pour the substance into? I need something that won't hurt my wallet, and is hard enough that I can form leather with it, but not so rigid that it would crack when nailed into. I really hope someone has some experience with this! Thanks again, Zayne
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Truely Shoe lasts are very very rare to find. i found a couple stores locally that sells them. One of the stores sells only in dozens and for female foot - with varied sizes. Luckily the other store sells individual pairs for men sizes, BUT, my foot is size 9&1/2 and the last few ones they have are size 8&1/2 and size 8.... Having seen some youtube videos of cordwainers modifying their last shapes by adding cork boards, I went and bought the size 8&1/2 and some cork boards... i havent fully done the modification, but still is about half way and i've added about 3 layers of cork on the outer side. - My feet are fairly wide. As i see the lasts, they still need about a layer of cork more on the inner side... So my question is... Is there a limitation to this modification?.. is 3 layers of cork on one side ok?... seeking the wisdom of those who have done this.
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I started new bag today. -
Is there a quicker way to dry leather indoors than just letting it sit? Would putting it in front of a fan work? Or over a heater vent? I am trying to finish some projects that were dipped in vinegaroon and I would like to shave a little bit of time off the drying process. I have dipped the items in vinegaroon, then in a neutralizing solution, then rinsed in warm water. Also, if there are simple methods for wet leather faster, would the same methods work for drying oiled leather faster, so that I can apply multiple coats in shorter amounts of time? Thanks! Zayne
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I have searched the forums but havent found any good answers. I like oil dye, as I haven't had any problems with it, and I havent tried any water/alcohol based dyes yet. I use cut resolene as a finish, and I heard people have had issues with water/alcohol based dyes coming off when using it. Anyways, I would like to create my own custom colors of dye, whether that requires making dyes from scratch or mixing two existing dyes. I am looking to make colors like indigo/navy, maroon/dark red, and dark green. What is the best way to achieve this? I use feibings pro oil dye now, but I am completely open to suggestions. Thanks Zayne
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I just recently purchased an 8-9oz Hermann Oak double bend, for belts/straps, and it is very stiff, and will only get more stiff with the application of dyes. I know that the leather being as thick as that, it will only get to a certain amount of flexibility, but I would still like to make it more supple, if possible. Any suggestions? Thanks Zayne
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