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I have a set of antique woolies that have a musky odor and some mold. What is the best way to kill all of the mold and remove the odor? Specifically in the hair, it is 3-4” long maybe Mongolian or Tibetan. Thanks!

For Sale: Theses are all Duncan Custom Aluminum mold guns, Guns are $60.00 each for these cowboy mold guns plus shipping unless marked differently. These will be offered on a first come basis via email only NO PHONE CALLS. Most of these mold guns are extremely hard to get from Duncan as they cast very little today. Let me know what you want and I will let you know what the shipping will be, either Priority Mail or Flat Rate depending on how many or size of gun. 1 x Bond Arms Derringer…NO trigger guard model........$40.00 1 x Davis 38 Derringer….NO trigger guard model...........$40.00 1 x ADB 38 Derringer….NO trigger guard model…not sure what brand or model.......$40.00 1 x Colt 1862 (5 ½”) 1 x Colt 1851 Navy (7 ½”) 1 x Colt 1860 (8”) 1 x Remington 1858 (8”) 1 x Remington 1875 (7 ½”) 1 x Cimmaron Schofield (7”) 1 x Navy Schofield (7”) 1 x LeMat (6 ¾”) 1 x SAA (5 ½”)…not sure of brand 1 x Colt SAA (4 ¾”)……..Broken Hammer Spur……$50.00 1 x Colt SAA (4 ¾”) 1 x Cimmaron Thunder (3 ½”) 1 x Cimmaron SAA (7 ½”) 1 x SAA (7 ½”)….not sure of brand 1 x Ruger Army (7 ½”) 2 x Ruger Blackhawk (6 ½”)…..have two of these 1 x Ruger Super Blackhawk (7 ½”) 1 x Old Ruger Vaquero (4 5/8”) 1 x Ruger BlackHawk (4 5/8”) 1 x Ruger Super Blackhawk (5 ½”) 2 x Old Ruger Vaquero (7 ½”)…..have two of these 1 x Old Ruger Vaquero Sheriff (3 ¾”) 1 x Old Ruger Vaquero Sheriff (3 5/8”)……longer Vaquero cut down to this 1 x Old Ruger Vaquero (5 ½”) 1 x Old Ruger Vaquero Bisley (5 ½”) 1 x New Ruger Vaquero (5 ½”) 1 x Ruger Blackhawk Bisley (7 ½”) 1 x New Model Ruger Single Six (5 ½”) 1 x Ruger Single Six (6 ½’) 1 x Freedom Arms 454 Casull (7 ½”)

Is there such a thing as a mold for the King Cobra?

I've tried searching and haven't found what I'm looking for. Can you help me? I'm having mold develop on my pieces that I'm casing inside of a ziploc bag. Should I be casing my leather projects in something else? I notice that after a couple of days mold spots begin to form. How do I clean off the mold without destroying the leather? Thanks for any and all help you can give me!

I've tried searching and haven't found what I'm looking for. Can you help me? I'm having mold develop on my pieces that I'm casing inside of a ziploc bag. Should I be casing my leather projects in something else? I notice that after a couple of days mold spots begin to form. How do I clean off the mold without destroying the leather? Thanks for any and all help you can give me!

I want to cover a cork lid with leather (both flesh and grain sides). I am a rank beginner and the only thing I've figured out is to stitch all around. However, I really want it to be smooth -- for example, like a bicycle seat. How would I do this? Thickness of leather? Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Here is a gallery of images of the leather I came across a large amount of leather at an auction that I got for cheap. I believe most of the leather is latigo, but I am a complete amateur at this and hope you guys can help me identify and solve my mold problem so I can make some stuff out of this horde of hides. I attached a picture of the thickness of the average latigo hide just for reference. Right now I am using a 1/16 mix of bleach and water with copious amounts of saddle soap. I was reading around the website and I plan to spray them with a mix of Listerine and white vinegar. Do you guys have any suggestions on the mold problem or could lend a look to identify what type of tanning was used? p.s.: Thank you. I just joined this forum and I already have more projects on my list!

When trying to find buffalo or bison leather i can only find 30% veg tanned or 30% reveg leather. My question is can u wet mold 30% veg tanned or re veg leather and will it make items rust assuming it has some chrome tanning done to it? Thank you for your time and posts

So I got a problem I´d really like to fix. As I made several sword sheath (Larp) and similar for customers so far (and will do more in the future), I usually wet mold them around a wooden form before stitching, sometimes I add some tooling and sometimes I treat them with hot water to get the a little stiffer. My usually sequence for doing this was more or less this one: - tooling (wet) - molding (wet) - stitching - dyeing - heat treatment/boiling (wet) - applying finish and stuff. So the main problems I got are: 1) When I dye the piece, the colour becomes uneven as some ares are compressed more than others through the process of molding. Maybe it´s usefull to add that I use a sponge for the dye-job, when the colours should be lighter, I wrap some cloth around it so there´ll be less colour per layer) -> My solution would be to dye it before molding, as it´s easier to apply evenly and the fibres are mor even, too. The reason of doing it afterwards was, that the dye stiffens the leather a little bit, but I think an even colour has a higher priority. 2) The main issue is, that the tooling really looses definition. After tooling I case it two more times (molding and "boiling") so it evens out a bit once and again. Besides for the heat treatment I use water hot at about 75 to max. 90 °C (~167 - 194 Fahrenheit) (I use a boiler and a thermometer, so I never get the same temperature). For the process I boil the water and pour it over the stitched sheath on the form, so even if I use 90°C, the leather wouldn´t reach that temperature completeley and won´t get that brittle. But with this molding process, the top grain starts to shrink and every cut from the swivelknife opens up a lot while the stamping starts to fade away... For that problem I got no solution right now and I can´t figure out how to do it right. I think there are some liquids out there used for stiffening leather instead of boiling it, but I don´t know how that will affect the dyejob or the finishing process.... I think it might be an idea to mold the sheath right after tooling to get one casing step out of the line, but then I´d have to case, tool and mold in one step.... Any ideas, tips or solutions to this one?

Hi I have recently brought back from Zambia an African Drum. The drum was made using traditional methods by a villager using untreated wood for the drum itself (i helped cut down the tree) and rawhide for the drumskin. The wood didn't have time to properly dry before i needed to fly back to Australia, thus it was still green with heaps of moisture. during both the flight home and the Australian customs required 4week quarantine period, a considerable amount of mold has grown on both the wood and the rawhide. The wood is of course not the topic for this forum but rather the rawhide skin. Mold is on both the outside and the inside (this the most difficult to get at by hand). I have cleaned the rawhide mold off the outside surface and attempted to get at the inside surface. i used water and a dishwashing scrubber to clean the rawhide. i have left the drum in the sun for days to attempt to dry it out. My problem and question is how can i better clean the skin and is there a way to prominently stop mold from growing. i thought about pouring a bleach solution into the inside of the drum to kill the mold on the wood. however, i do not know how that will affect the rawhide skin (as well as the wood for that matter). i will upload some pictures so you all can get a better feel for the matter.

Hi all... This is my first winter doing anything with leather and I find myself in a mess. I am having a huge problem with mold or mildew, I don't even know which it is. It's green and spreading mostly to veg tanned undyed but not exclusively. I make leather journals and after making them was wrapping the strap around the books....bad idea. Anyway, it's on a lot of my leather now. I got rid of a bunch of it and have been spraying the pieces I'm keeping with denatured alcohol, letting it dry and brushing and then repeating. I bought a huge box of silica gel and am now separating everything, putting it in plastic boxes with paper towels and packets of anti dessicant to try and prevent it from cross contaminating and thinking there must be too much moisture in the air (this is my home) so that will help keep it dryer. If I tossed everything out that has some on it I would have to start over almost. Just spots here and there. Any scraps or pieces that aren't already made into something that had any has been tossed. I'm going through everything once a day. Is this something I can recover from with diligence or am I done? Any thing else I can do that I haven't? Yikes...is this as bad as it feels? Thanks in advance!