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Hi Guys, I'm a newbie here and have just bought a very old Singer 111w155 machine which I have a few questions about. Im hoping that some of you have this machine or one like it and can give me some advice. This machine does a nice stitch so far (Ive had it for 2 days) but I noticed that the the belt on the lower safety clutch pulley walks off the pulley about 1/4 of an inch. How can I get this back on center and keep it there? Upon looking over the machine and watching videos on line I noticed that I'm missing a cog next to the lower safety clutch pulley... OR maybe it is an older model? Well anyway, I tried to just move the lower safety clutch pulley over a bit, but when I did - I got a lot of slop (back and forth on the shaft). Also I need some advice on if I should move my bobbin case up a bit. It looks like it might be a bit low. The little tab the goes under the feed dog just catches. Should it be more firmly up in that slot? AND - If I do move it; will I have to re-time the bobbin and needle? Also, about that bobbin area... Is the little finger that comes out and points at the bobbin case supposed to be closer to the case? I seem to have a good size gap. Lastly, having to lift out the bobbin with a needle or screw driver seems wrong, is there a right way or at least a better way? I cant wait to get to work and use this machine! I hope to hear from you.

Just thought I would pass this along. I had a crack in the needle bar of my 111W155 for a while, so last night I decided to replace the needle bar. I have been putting it off since the machine runs so well I didn't want to disrupt the harmony I figured that you would just have to remove the hole feed dog (and maybe hook) assembly, then loosen a few screws and the needle bar would slide out the bottom. That is not the case however so I will try and describe it best I can. First remove the needle and the feet from the machine. You will need a good amount of light to see all this this since most of the work is lining up parts that are behind other parts that you can't see unless you have a flashlight on them. The Parts in RED are what you remove, the parts in YELLOW are what you need to line up correctly when putting it back on. Once you have the head door open there are a few obvious screws. The needle bar set-screw lines up so you can adjust it (B) in pic, as it sits behind part 240248 that holds both the needle bar and the little foot bar assembly and tension. You can loosen this screw (B). Now starting at the top there is a set-screw (A) and the tension screw next to (A) - remove them. Then remove the linkage screw on the left middle across from (B), and then the angle bracket screw on the bottom (D). There is a window behind the large set-pin below you can pop it from the back with a screw driver. The whole assembly will slowly pull forward off the cam-link (B) and you will have the needle bar and the little foot assembly off the machine. Now you can remove the bad needle bar and put in the new one. The trick to getting it all back together is the little foot spring tension bar needs to line up with the top hole (at the same time) you line up the Pin (B) into the cam arm linkage. Put the foot tension screw back in a little ways so when the tension pin and spring pop back in they will rest against it. There is a floating guide behind (D) - also marked in yellow below, that needs to line up in the track. Once you have them all in-line the linkage will slide back into place. You have to line up 4 separate parts at almost the same time to get it back into place. The little-foot tension pin and spring - top -, the needle-cam arm (B) - middle -, the floating guide behind (D) - bottom - and the linkage bracket (middle -left). Once it is all back in place you can put all the screws back and the feet back on. I got lucky and set the needle height correctly the first time so I didn't mess up the hook timing.

Good day every one, My name is Carlos, from Houston Texas, I recently acquired a singer 111w155 since I have been interested in learning to sew some leather as a hobby, I also have a Adler 30-1. have only done a little patching a minor items with it. I have problems with the singer 111w155, and would appreciate some needed help if possible. got it about a week ago, cleaned it with W40 and kerosene , then oiled with sewing machine oil. It did not have a belt to motor, but after it was lubed I did some manual stitching and it worked some. Noticed the arrow in the timing pulley was a little bit, OFF, removed timing belt, installed it with the take up level up and the arrows pointed as it showed in a members video ( Mr Grosse). But now the hook is way off when the needle in down position starting to come up ( first picture), even if I loose the the set screws for the gear for the hook timing does not even come close,, any advice on what to do, I have looked at videos and have the manual but can not figure it out 2nd and third picture is how timing belt was installed Thank you. Carlos

Hi, I am hoping to find some help. I recently purchased a singer 111w155. It worked when I bought it, however, once I brought it home, I haven’t gotten it to function. The top thread just breaks at the needle, last time it broke the tip of the needle at the eye as well. Thread seems to get hung up in tensioner like in 1st photo I have it set at “5” for stitch length. It is 135 thread. I will attach another pic of resulting leather in next post. Thank you so so much.

Hello there, I've come across a 111w155 for sale for 450$ Not sure of the condition. It claims to be in working order but looks a bit beat up. From what I've seen, people have just been sewing upholstery leather and thick fabric. I would need it to go through 2 layers of 5-6 ounce veg or a layer of 7-8 + a 2-3 ounce veg backing. Looking to do belts and maybe some wallets. Thats another thing. Is it a bit too beastly to handle small 2-3 ounce wallet sewing? I would be able to go try it out but its quite far, so I want to see if its worth the trip. Anything to look out for if I go test it out? All info is appreciated! Have a good one!

Hello all, Can anyone tell me what kind of clearance should there be between the feed lifting cam fork and the feed lifting cam? I have noticed a new sound coming from the feed mechanism area and noticed that my cam fork is pretty loose on the cam. I think as the machine cycles through a stitch, I am hearing the fork "slap" the cam for lack of better words. I have no reference to the correct clearance between the two components. I may be able to get a video tonight of the "slop" that I have. I would probably say that I can rock the cam fork about +/- .030" (.015" per side) about the cam. To me this is way too much and probably causing the noise. The machine seems to be stitching fine still. If anyone can tell me how tight their cam and lifting fork is to each other, I can determine how I want to proceed with fixing it. Appreciate any experience, info or links to discussions about this (I have searched for anything on this and can't find much). Thanks. Regards, Adam

located in Iowa. had it just gone through . new timing belt and tuned and oiled. extra lg table , has org. clutch motor with custom small 1 inch pulley . sews relatively slow. asking 600 if interested let me know and l'll send pictures. I'm in the possess of moving and don't have room for all 3 machines lol this is a walking foot machine

I finally found time to install the new (original Juki!) Thread Release Guide part on my Tacsew T1563, a Juki LU-563 clone. I made a video to celebrate the occasion and document the process. Since the part is somewhat deeply nested and connected in the head, I had to take apart and put back together a good portion of the head, including removing the presser foot bar and various connected parts. So the video might be useful even if you don't need to replace that particular part. My thread release guide works as intended and the manual foot lift movements no longer catch and annoy every time you lift the presser foot. The new part itself was cheap at $7.33, especially for an original Juki part. When I checked, ABC Sewing Machine was the only U.S. vendor who had this part (Juki Part Number B14602460A0) in stock AND listed on their online ordering system. So props to them for that. So here's the video for your viewing pleasure and edutainment:

I just bought this machine on Monday for making moccasins and thin sandals. I am new to leather working as well as new to sewing in general. Overall, I am pretty happy with the machine. However, regardless of how I adjust the tension, the bobbin thread shows on top. Can anyone tell me what might be the problem? My first guess is that the bobbin tension needs to be adjusted but I am relatively clueless and I would love some advice before a mess anything up by tinkering with the machine. Thanks ahead for any advice!