Older Industrial Electronics

[eblanche]

Hey all,

I posted a thread not long ago asking a bunch of questions and never received a response. I wanted to single out this specific question as it is more broad.

I may have an opportunity to buy the machine I want. This machine (Juki 5410) is available as standard operation or with electronic automatic functions such as thread snips, backtack, etc. The machine I'm considering is an older fully automatic model with the electronics. How reliable are the electronics in the older industrial machines? I've been told by multiple sources that the older control panels are no longer made/serviced by Juki and buying an older electronic Juki should be a concern!

Thanks and appreciate any insight,

Eric

[MtlBiker]

I guess what I'd ask is what you intend to sew with that machine.  And will you be doing longer production runs, or as many of us here, one at a time items?  Will you be sewing leather?  How thick and how many layers?  If I'm not mistaken, that is a needle feed machine and maybe you should be looking at a triple feed?  Mechanically Juki machines are highly rated, but I'd be a bit concerned about the electronics.  I'm of the KISS school when it comes to these things.

[chrisash]

In many if not all cases you can just disconnect or remove the electronic parts and run as a basic machine, I guess it depends on the way the electronic controls are incorporated into the specific machine. If you are lucky there might be circuit diagrams so someone could fault find, though that seems a dying profession these days where they just board change electronics rather than repair

[eblanche]

Thanks for the replies!

I intend to use this machine primarily for lightweight woven nylons, polyester, mesh and laminates from .5oz/yd 7 denier and up. I do not plan on sewing leather. The other main function will be for lightweight outdoor backpack material. I do not intend to use thicker than v69 thread so am looking at the "light duty" configuration on this particular juki, suitable for #9-18 dbx1 needle size. I make lightweight outdoor down quilts and also backpacks.

I do not do long production runs.Mostly one/two at a time type of work. I sometimes stitch one at a time but also often faster. 

I've heard of disconnecting the electronics for manual function but unless I know for sure, not something I'd want to think of a fail safe. This is my first "larger sewing purchase." 

I'm coming from a Janome 6600p quilting machine so a big change of pace here! The janome has a ton of functions and features and as a beginner, I have been spoiled. Maybe I should just learn the old school methods and actually improve my fundamental sewing skills??

Any thoughts are much welcome! I know there are quite a bit of members here who are familiar with these machines.

[kgg]

10 hours ago, eblanche said:

I may have an opportunity to buy the machine I want. This machine (Juki 5410) is available as standard operation or with electronic automatic functions such as thread snips, backtack, etc. The machine I'm considering is an older fully automatic model with the electronics. How reliable are the electronics in the older industrial machines? I've been told by multiple sources that the older control panels are no longer made/serviced by Juki and buying an older electronic Juki should be a concern!

Their newer ones appears to be available in 3 models:

1) light to medium model DLN-5410NDD-7 takes #9 - 18  needle with a max stitch length of 4mm with a presser foot lift of 10mm and 13mm by knee with a max speed of 5000 spm

2) Medium to heavy DLN-5410NDH-7 takes #20 - 23 needle with a max stitch length of 4.5 mm with a presser foot lift of 10mm and 13mm by knee with a max speed of 4000 spm

3) For Jeans DLN-5410NDJ-7 takes #20 - 23 needle with a max stitch length of 4.5 mm with a presser foot lift of 10mm and 13mm by knee with a max speed of 4000 spm

Since these are high speed fabric machines chances are that at some point in it's life it was used machine in a commercial setting where it was used and abused. For me any machine that has electronics would be a no go unless they were basically giving it away. You know the electronics are going to fail at some point and replacement parts are going to be expensive if and a big if they are available and even salvage electronic parts are expensive. Electronics are really made for production work where speed directly relates to dollars while the hobbyist speed and those 1000 different stitches / functions really aren't necessary in the majority of cases. 

My question is do you really need all the functions that the electronics offer or is it a want? Also you never mentioned your budget but most importantly what is the thickest amount of material in the seams of folded material you are planning on sewing.

I would suggest:

1) Look at machines with no electronics what-so-ever on the machine itself or the motor even a new machine, brand name or clone.

2) Get a clean plain jane setup, sewing machine and servo motor from a brand name company. Which Juki is.

3) Don't buy a machine just for what you are planning too sew today but later down the road where you go from say nylon backpacks to 21 oz canvas cushions.

4) A good starting point if you just want a drop feed machine would be a Juki DDL-5500 (new c/w table and servo motor ~ $950) but you are really limiting yourself when trying to stitch and feed across or through multiple layers of material.

5) I would suggest looking at a walking foot machine like the Juki DU-1181n (new c/w table and servo motor ~ $1400). Then there is of course the used market where you can save some dollars.

kgg

[keithski122]

I have a Typical sewing machine with all the electronic bells and whistles, also needs an air feed for certain operations, however if the air feed isn't connected it will work with basic functions, ie no auto footlift, no auto high foot lift, no second stitch length on switch.I imagine as long as the motor works it will also function in basic mode, if not a swap to a basic servo motor with needle postioner will get it working fine.

However we also have a durkop adler machine at work with similar functions but due to an electronic fault will not work, no manual foot lift so cannot be used even if the motor was swapped out.

[eblanche]

Two more great responses. Thanks all!

Kgg, I think I simply want rather than need the functions an automatic gives me. Even with my Janome 6600p, I found myself manually doing the start/finish backtack for certain purposes and I have always needed to go back and further snip threads closer to the material. Never used the saved settings or any of the decorative stitches. For my purposes, an automatic electronic machine would save time for sure but nothing compared to the time savings in the expected factory setting. Needle up and down is most important to me. I can achieve this with a servo motor and other accommodations though.\

Thanks everyone and still any further response are welcome and appreciated!