111W155

[Thescandall]

ok i think this is it   200086ALX 16720  Needle Bar Connecting Stud Pinch Screw, for 208552.

im saving that parts you sent link in my favorite places.  

[Thescandall]

  

page 36 of 41 shows the needle bar and the part it hooks to.  that's where to find the part.  i know there have been a few looking for it also.. Cambell/ Randall has them.... bought 2..

Edited April 12, 2022 by Thescandall

[CowboyBob]

9 hours ago, Thescandall said:

  

page 36 of 41 shows the needle bar and the part it hooks to.  that's where to find the part.  i know there have been a few looking for it also.. Cambell/ Randall has them.... bought 2..

 

[Wyowally]

23 hours ago, Thescandall said:

Wally. I was joking when I said I was an authority on working on this machine. I don’t know squat about it. Seems like a new issue every day pops up till I get it right. This needle bar screw (clamp screw) is the next issue. I need a new one and now the search is on.  It’s exhausting searching google, past posts here and watching you tube. 
 I think I’m close, but now I’m reading an entire military manual trying to familiar myself on it. 
  Soon I hope!!!

I know, but the truth is you are becoming an expert on your machine in particular!  Just so you know, in case you didn't, there are about 5 military manuals floating around with various editions. A couple of them are better than others.  I built a redneck knee lifting apparatus that works great, but don't recommend it. Bob, Wiz, or someone recommended one on here quite a while ago. It was advertised for a Juki I believe, but worked out good. I do suggest getting rid of (if yours has it) the lifter piece that goes down from the machine that has a little flat oval at the tip. One way or another, a system with a roller right at that point works smoother with less effort.

[Thescandall]

2 hours ago, Wyowally said:

I know, but the truth is you are becoming an expert on your machine in particular!  Just so you know, in case you didn't, there are about 5 military manuals floating around with various editions. A couple of them are better than others.  I built a redneck knee lifting apparatus that works great, but don't recommend it. Bob, Wiz, or someone recommended one on here quite a while ago. It was advertised for a Juki I believe but worked out good. I do suggest getting rid of (if yours has it) the lifter piece that goes down from the machine that has a little flat oval at the tip. One way or another, a system with a roller right at that point works smoother with less effort.

 i have that roller.  it came on the machine . the shaft was a little bent from sitting on it, instead of it being taken off.  but this machine sat for years, really decades i would guess.  i purchased a knee lift kit that works great altho i put it on before the motor so it might have to come off. until after i install the motor tomorrow .. i thought that little roller was cool too. it was kinda froze up but a little scrubbing and oil and it freed right up. 

this place is a wealth of info for someone like me having never even wondered how a sewing machine works.. absolutely clueless till a couple months ago. hell computers were magic until i was about 45.  at 63 now sewing machines are.. someone must have been racking their brain to even come up with the concept.

this little machine seems more complicated than my 5100 for some reason, i guess because it aint broke. lol

 Bob i see the difference in the hinges now.  They do look stronger than these, but if these work im fine..

 as far as the gap behind my drive wheel i cant say.    mine has that 3/8 spacer also.. hmmm

Edited April 12, 2022 by Thescandall

[Thescandall]

I got the table built and motor installed. Got lucky and the knee lift wasn’t in the way. Took a piece of strap leather and wrapped it around the outside of the pulleys and it came out to 40 “ .

So I bought a 3L 400 belt and will try it on tomorrow.  Looking forward to watching it run.  
 Not quite the machine my Techsew 5100 is but it’s a really comfortable setup and should be a great tool. 
I’ll try to get it stitching correct this weekend. 

[Thescandall]

After reading the manual 2 times and watching UWEs videos on timing. I think I have it figured out now. One problem I’m having is  that when lining up the arrows on the timing while the lift arm is all the way up. The arrows are not exactly lined up. I have to turn the balance wheel a tad and the lift arm is not quite all the way up. Is this a problem.  It’s close but not exact.  I have a new belt if needed. Also the stitch length adjustment is kinda weird.  I can make it stitch backwards for some reason. I guess I’m turning it too far.  I thought it was supposed to stop at both ends of the selections.  

Top stitch looks great but I’m not getting the knot pulled up on bottom at all and I have the tension so tight I can’t turn it anymore. 

The bobbin tension is almost non existent super easy to pull. I know there is an answer to this issue and have looked at length to find a solution. I think part of the problem is I may have been using the wrong terminology in searches. I’m new to this sewing machine world but willing to jump in with both feet..

 any help would be appreciated. 

[chrisash]

When I brought my 155 I found that the bobbin tension was very loose, on inspection the thread had worn a grove over the years of use so the bobbin spring could not apply enough tension, a new bobbin holder top solved the problem . Had to buy from the US to just get the top rather than the whole part

Are you sure you dont have the motor going the wrong way for the stitch to go backwards, servo motors often have a forward or reverse setting switch

[Thescandall]

57 minutes ago, chrisash said:

When I brought my 155 I found that the bobbin tension was very loose, on inspection the thread had worn a grove over the years of use so the bobbin spring could not apply enough tension, a new bobbin holder top solved the problem . Had to buy from the US to just get the top rather than the whole part

Are you sure you dont have the motor going the wrong way for the stitch to go backwards, servo motors often have a forward or reverse setting switch

Yes the motor is correct. It’s just I turned the stitch selection past the stop I think. I turned it back and the stitches are going the correct way.  I’ll check out the tension spring and see if it’s grooved.  
thanks for the reply. 

[Thescandall]

Turns out there is a grove I can see daylight through. No way there can ever be tension on the bobbin.  So I ordered new springs and a new bobbin case. Waiting on the mail again. But I did pull the belt, timed it and I’m ready for the parts.