Sewing machine help needed in western washington

[AdamDavis]

Hey guys, I went ahead and got myself a new sewing machine ( Cobra class 26) and realized I have absolutely no clue what I’m doing! I’ve been watching tutorials on the youtube but was hoping someone would be able to give me a lesson in person. I would be happy to compensate someone for there time.  If not are there any other resources that you could recommend? Thanks.

Adam

[chrisash]

Not leather but  "Sailrite.com" do some great videos on using sewing machines all the techniques are the same for man made or leather so worth some watching

[AdamDavis]

Thanks Chris, I’ll check those out.

[Northmount]

@AdamDavis moved your post to leather sewing machines.

[MtlBiker]

@AdamDavis - If, as you say, you have absolutely no clue what you're doing, what made you buy a sewing machine and specifically that machine?  What do you plan on sewing?

Before Covid, I couldn't even sew a button on a shirt (I still have trouble with that) but I started sewing with a home sewing machine.  I got hooked, and now have several different machines.  I learned most of (the little) I know by watching YouTube videos ("on the Youtube" ) And this forum has been an incredible help as well.  But with the combination of YouTube and this forum, all is possible!

Do you have any sewing experience?  Have you tried something and run into problems?  What exactly do you feel you need help with?

 

[AdamDavis]

@MtlBiker I have been hand sewing my projects; wallets, sheaths, and hand bags. I thought a sewing machine would save me a lot of time allowing me to be a little more ambitious with my design choices. The machine as it turns out is somewhat more complicated than I expected. My first problem was loading the bobbin thread. That took like a whole day to figure out. After that, I managed to jam the bobbin case up with a “birds nest” of thread and knocked the timing off. With the help of a facebook group I was able to get everything back in working order. At this point I’m concerned that trying to learn as I go will likely result in more problems. Perhaps this unavoidable. Eventually I’ll figure it out but if I could save myself the frustration and just pay someone to give me some pointers that would be Preferable.

[MtlBiker]

@AdamDavis - Okay, it sounds like you've got experience, but little if any with sewing machines.  The "birds nest" is often caused by your not holding the bobbin thread tightly enough as you start your stitches.  If it gets pulled in, that's what will happen.

What thread are you using, and what needle?  Do you know how to check/adjust bobbin tension?  If you can clean up that birds nest and are sure there are not thread remnants caught around the bobbin, just try to do a straight stitch, making sure you are holding both top and bobbin threads tightly at the start.  After a couple of stitches you can release them.  Finish your line of stitching and then look at the result.  See if the top and bobbin threads are meeting in the middle of your material assembly.  If not, you will have to adjust the thread tension... probably top thread tension but maybe also bobbin tension.  Do you know that you need to readjust thread tension when you change thread weights (sometimes even colors as black thread is stiffer) and even as your material assembly (thickness and layers) changes.

What thread are you using?  What needle?  And what material are you sewing?

Don't worry, we'll help you get going.

 

[Sasquach]

I learned a lot about the Class 26 by watching Al Bane on You tube.  He has lots of videos  but one that may help you is 

 

[AdamDavis]

@MtlBiker  thanks for the help! I’m using size 138 thread and whatever size needles they sent with it. I’m pretty sure you are right about the thread tension because  I’m getting “knots” on the bottom stitches.I’m not really sure what you mean about about the top and bottom threads meeting in the middle of the material assembly though. As far as what I’m sewing, just scrap pieces of veg tan. Not ready to try a real project.

[AdamDavis]

@Sasquach thanks!

[MtlBiker]

12 hours ago, AdamDavis said:

@MtlBiker  thanks for the help! I’m using size 138 thread and whatever size needles they sent with it. I’m pretty sure you are right about the thread tension because  I’m getting “knots” on the bottom stitches.I’m not really sure what you mean about about the top and bottom threads meeting in the middle of the material assembly though. As far as what I’m sewing, just scrap pieces of veg tan. Not ready to try a real project.

There have been lots of threads here about thread tension... maybe try a search and see what you find.  I don't have a drawing handy, but the idea is that the top and bottom stitches need to meet in the middle of your material assembly... if you look at the result from the top side, you should not see the bottom thread coming up to the top (if it does, your top tension is too tight or your bottom too loose), and likewise if you look at the stitch from the bottom, you should not see  the top thread coming through.  If you do, the bottom tension is too tight or the top too loose.  And remember that different threads and different types of material usually require different thread tension adjustments.  Which is why you should always run a test piece of the SAME material and thread as you plan to use.

In the beginning it helps with understanding this if you use different thread colors on the top and bottom... that makes it real easy to identify if the tension is correct.  But bear in mind that adjusting thread tension for a white thread does NOT mean the tension will be the same with a black thread.  Black (at least to me) is the most problematic thread because even for the same weight (v138 for example) it is usually stiffer than the other colors.

And you really should know exactly what the needle is that you're using... both the size of the needle as well as the type, such as round point (general use) or diamond point (for leather).  It's important to know that.  Probably marked on your little package of needles.  What's the thickness of the leather scraps you're using and how many layers?

[AdamDavis]

@MtlBiker the package says 135x16. I was practicing on single layers of varying thicknesses though mostly 4-5 oz.  I found that the sewing machine store closest to me has free beginner's classes. I think thats probably my best bet. 

[suzelle]

On 5/28/2022 at 10:33 AM, AdamDavis said:

Hey guys, I went ahead and got myself a new sewing machine ( Cobra class 26) and realized I have absolutely no clue what I’m doing! I’ve been watching tutorials on the youtube but was hoping someone would be able to give me a lesson in person. I would be happy to compensate someone for there time.  If not are there any other resources that you could recommend? Thanks.

Adam

Adam, Congrats on the new Cobra Class 26! That's pretty cool! 

[Wizcrafts]

On 5/28/2022 at 6:51 PM, MtlBiker said:

The "birds nest" is often caused by your not holding the bobbin thread tightly enough as you start your stitches.  If it gets pulled in, that's what will happen.

You need to hold the top thread back at the start or it will get pulled and wrapped around the shuttle and/or bobbin case race and jam the hook. If possible, hold both threads back equally. But, at least keep the top thread under hand tension until you sew 2 or 3 stitches. If it is inconvenient to hold the thread back, at least capture it under the outside presser foot and make sure the take-up lever is either at the top, or just moving down before you start to sew. This gives you a fighting chance.

1 hour ago, AdamDavis said:

I found that the sewing machine store closest to me has free beginner's classes. I think that's probably my best bet. 

Ask that sewing machine store if they deal with industrial sewing machines. There is a world of difference between industrial and domestic (household) sewing machines. People versed in domestics may or may not Grok the intricacies of operating or even threading an industrial machine.

[chrisash]

Here is a thread -Needle size chart, for your 138 thread you should be using a 135x16 needle size either 22 or 23

https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Edited May 30, 2022 by chrisash

[kgg]

8 hours ago, AdamDavis said:

@MtlBiker the package says 135x16.

Industrial sewing machine needles are typically sold in a single pack of 10 needles, 10 packages of 10 needles (100 total) and a box containing 5 - 10 packages (500 needles).

Just some quick info on how to read the labeling on the packets of industrial sewing machine needles:

I am going to assume the machine came with the New labeling for Groz-Beckert needles in small plastic packages: They have the QR code on the bottom right hand side of the label while older production runs don't have this code.

Across the top you will see:

i) Groz-Beckert highlighted in red: Indicates the manufacturer and just under that you will see:

a) On the left top corner: a number something like 763252 which would be Groz-Beckert's needle (NDL) code number

b) In the center a large font number indicating the number of needles in the package: 10

c) On the same line to the left will be the size of the needles in the package: Nm 140 / 22. The first numbers indicate the size using the Metric system and the numbers after the slash is the Imperial size of the needles

The next line under that information on the left is the most important area of information as it gives the needle system which is based around lenght and diameter size of the neddle.

1) For Fabric it would say : 135 x 17 and under that it would also say DP x 17

2) For Leather it would say: 135 x 16 TRI and under that it would also say DP x 16 D

3) At the bottom left hand corner gives information about the needles:

i) The coating of the needle: If nothing is typed just above the needle point type then they would be Chrome-Plated Metal but if it says GEBEDUR it means the needles are Titanium nitride coated.

ii) The type of point on the tip of the needle: R or D/ TRI

iii) The very last number on the bottom left side is the manufacturers  production number.

What size of needle are you using with your V138 thread???

kgg

[AdamDavis]

@kgg I’m unable to post a picture of the needle package but it reads as follows

Schmetz

Canu:37:29kj1

nm:140 size 22

135x16 Dia

Dpx16 Dia.  
 

I assume these are the correct needles for leather, at least I hope they are; I purchased the machine from” leather machine company”. 

[AdamDavis]

@Wizcrafts Thanks! I’ve gotten as far a figuring out how to start( holding back the threads) but still not sure about lots of other stuff. Perhaps learning by doing, even if that means learning the hard way is the best course of action. It would be helpful if the machine had useable directions. Sadly………..

[AdamDavis]

@suzelle Thanks! I’ve heard lots of good things about them. When I get it figured out I’ll post some pictures of the finished projects.

Edited May 30, 2022 by AdamDavis

[kgg]

33 minutes ago, AdamDavis said:

I assume these are the correct needles for leather

Yes they are the correct needle system for leather for your machine. However the needle size nm:140 size 22 for the V138 thread is on the lower side for sewing leather it is more for sewing V92 thread in thicker items. The size 23 needle, I think would have been a better choice. Sewing in thicker leather you may find you will have to move up to even a size 24 should you have problems like skipped stitches. I prefer Schmetz needles to all the other brands but that maybe just a personal preference but they have never given me a problem in any of my machines. A good source for needles is Wawak.com (https://www.wawak.com/Sewing/Needles/Industrial-Machine/Schmetz-Leather-Industrial-Machine-Needles-135X16-TRI-Dpx16-D-10Pack/#sku=SMNL135118 )

 

kgg

[AdamDavis]

@Kgg Thanks for the info. How often does one need to change a needle? When the break? Get dull? Is there a good book on the subject of machine sewing you would recommend? I was already intimidated by how much I didn’t know,  now I’m pretty sure I need formal lessons. F’it! HAND STICHING it is!!!

[kgg]

44 minutes ago, AdamDavis said:

How often does one need to change a needle? When the break? Get dull?

There is really no rule to changing your needle. I change my needles when I start a new project or after 8 hours of use in most items. But if I see / feel a problem, I change the needle. Sometimes you may get a bad new needle, mostly it depends on the number of layers and type of material being sewn. I just recently had to replaced a needle after only a 150 feet of applying edge binding. Be it the overall thickness was near the limit of the portable walking foot LSZ-1, the needle wasn't a brand name needle and there was rubber with thick poly binding as well as other layers cotton and nylon. The needle was so dull it would prick my finger.

Needles are cheap but frustration is priceless.

kgg

Edited May 30, 2022 by kgg
word missing

[MtlBiker]

17 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

You need to hold the top thread back at the start or it will get pulled and wrapped around the shuttle and/or bobbin case race and jam the hook. If possible, hold both threads back equally. But, at least keep the top thread under hand tension until you sew 2 or 3 stitches. If it is inconvenient to hold the thread back, at least capture it under the outside presser foot and make sure the take-up lever is either at the top, or just moving down before you start to sew. This gives you a fighting chance.

Thanks for catching that.  I'd meant to say to hold both top and bottom threads as you start to sew, and I really didn't realize that it's only the top thread that really needs to be held.  I've been making a real effort to hold onto both threads as I start ever since I got a bunch of birds nests and thread jammed around the shuttle.   I just did some sewing an hour ago and only held the top thread and was surprised that it worked perfectly.  That saves me a bit of worry and effort at the start.

[MtlBiker]

4 hours ago, AdamDavis said:

@Kgg Thanks for the info. How often does one need to change a needle? When the break? Get dull? Is there a good book on the subject of machine sewing you would recommend? I was already intimidated by how much I didn’t know,  now I’m pretty sure I need formal lessons. F’it! HAND STICHING it is!!!

Needles are cheap!  Buy a bunch!  If you don't know about Wawak.com, check them out.  And sign up there so that you get emails of their specials.  I always buy 20+ packs of needles at a time when they're on sale.  And as @kgg suggested, you're probably using too small a needle for the 138 thread and leather you're using.  Get some 135x16 needles (for leather) in sizes maybe 20 to 24.  And some 135x17 needles for general (non leather) sewing. 

I once took a cooking course and the chef asked everyone how often we sharpen our knives.  Someone answered about every week or two.  The chef answered, oh, so you only cook once every week or two?  I mention that because it's like how often do you change needles... I also change my needle for every project, and sometimes even several times.  The slightest question about the needle... change it!  Much cheaper to change the needle than ruin a project because of a bad needle.  It's not only the point of the needle that could be blunt, the eye could also be causing thread to fray, and of course if you hit something a little harder, the needle might even be slightly bent.

[AdamDavis]

@MtlBikerThanks I will get a bunch! I just spent the afternoon trying to adjust the thread tension. For a device designed to speed things up it certainly consumes a LOT of time!