puckers up between stitches

[Sjm1027]

I am really enjoying working with leather and noticed some really beautiful work on this web page. I made a leather box last evening and made many beginner mistakes but that was fine with me because I learned quite a bit doing it. I cut 45 degree edges, sewed the whole box and pig skin liner and added a snap. One thing I noticed was my stitching... Looks like it puckers up between stitches. Am I pulling to hard? What may be causing this? It actually made the project look bad... Usually the stitching in my eyes makes the project look really good and showcases quality.

Using a machine usually looks very uniform and clean. Can one learn to do the same thing by hand?

How much can someone sew using a machine? I know belts and wallets... usually flat things... But what about at a 45 degree like the box or in tight places, sharp corners?

Sorry for all the questions but inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks

Steve

Edited October 30, 2007 by Sjm1027

[Randy Cornelius]

I sew almost everything on my machine, I have different walking feet for different projects. I use a double foot for flat stuff like belts and saddle skirts. I have a right foot that I use for cases like cell phone cases and magazine pouches where I can sew right up to the edge of a fold. But those up and down folds on the ends I still have to sew by hand. I used to sew everything by hand until the arthritis got to my hands that really slowed me down.

When hand sewing be sure to wax your thread that is first. When you pull your threads snug them up if you see leather moving and buldging you are pulling way to hard. On thicker leather like saddle skirts you can pull it tighter but on lighter leather you want to snug it up. Hope this makes since.

Randy

[Rawhide]

Steve,

Can you post pictures of the buckling? It sounds like you have light weight leather, and are pulling stitches too tight.

Marlon

[Art]

Hi Steve,

For Box edges they make the French Box Attachment which is a needle plate/foot system that holds the edge at a 45 degree angle for sewing on the machine. It looks like this:

The only sewing I do like this is toe plugs on holsters and I do that by hand, I don't think I could pull it tight enough to pucker the leather, but then it is heavy leather at that point. I guess you have to tread lighter with lighter stuff.

Art

I am really enjoying working with leather and noticed some really beautiful work on this web page. I made a leather box last evening and made many beginner mistakes but that was fine with me because I learned quite a bit doing it. I cut 45 degree edges, sewed the whole box and pig skin liner and added a snap. One thing I noticed was my stitching... Looks like it puckers up between stitches. Am I pulling to hard? What may be causing this? It actually made the project look bad... Usually the stitching in my eyes makes the project look really good and showcases quality.

Using a machine usually looks very uniform and clean. Can one learn to do the same thing by hand?

How much can someone sew using a machine? I know belts and wallets... usually flat things... But what about at a 45 degree like the box or in tight places, sharp corners?

Sorry for all the questions but inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks

Steve

[Don101]

steve are you using one thread and two needles? and pulling boath evenly at the same time? Don

[Sjm1027]

steve are you using one thread and two needles? and pulling boath evenly at the same time? Don

Yes that's right Don. See attached picture. I am pulling tight but this is 8 oz leather with 2 oz pigskin

Steve

[blinddog]

It looks as if you might be pulling the stitches too tight judging from the appearance of the gusset pic. Two other things that come to mind: Are you gluing the joint before you sew it? I've had things "creep" on me if I didn't glue up a box joint. Also, you might find that it "puckers" less if you use a finer stitch.

Happy Trails,

Jeff

[Sjm1027]

No I didn't glue the joint first, when you say finer stitch do you mean thinner thread or closer on the holes?

Do most of you glue the joint first?

It looks as if you might be pulling the stitches too tight judging from the appearance of the gusset pic. Two other things that come to mind: Are you gluing the joint before you sew it? I've had things "creep" on me if I didn't glue up a box joint. Also, you might find that it "puckers" less if you use a finer stitch.

Happy Trails,

Jeff

[Randy Cornelius]

Also looks like the thread size is too big. Did you use a stitich grover to put a grove for the stitiches to lay in? That also could be the problem.

RC

[bruce johnson]

I agree with everything else here - big stiches and heavy thread. I am going to add one more factor. I do a fair amount of this kind of seam on some bags. If your awl is not a little thinner than maybe normal, you will get these raised puckers. When you go through the leather at an angle it is different than straight through like a strap. You will essentially be undercutting and raising the side of the hole toward the edge, and compresing and lowering the side of the hole away from the edge. If your stitching groove is not deep or thread is big, pulling the thread with enough tension to close the seam will raise and hold these "pucker" up even more. This is a whole different cat then handsewing a flat piece. Groove deeper and use a thin blade. You can either rework the readily available blades, or Bob Douglas makes some dandy blades in regular and slim styles ready to go.