Need advice for hole punching - can't tell if I have poor tools or just my inexperience

[jcwoman]

Hi all!  I have to make a dozen or so (every few months) straps for dog "collars"  (special purpose items that are similar to collars) and muzzles.  My biggest struggle so far is getting the holes for the buckle prongs lined up correctly.  I need 2mm holes, so a watchband pricking tool is too small and belt punch dies are too big.  Here is what I'm using/have tried so far:

1.  Hand rotary punch tool.  Works fine, but kills my hands after about 8 or 10 punches.  I'm also not sure how to sharpen the punch as needed.  I would like to consider this my backup or "for emergency use only" tool.

2.  I bought this desktop tool:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C4WWKN6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details     It's not a bad tool, but I strongly suspect the punches that came with it are cheap.  I'm trying to sharpen them with a drill and sandpaper but they only seem to hold the sharpness for 3 or 4 punches.  I stuck some Osborne punches in my Amazon wishlist because I read that they are high quality punches.  Should I go ahead and buy a couple?  I realize I'll need to sharpen them, too, but hope they'll hold the edge longer.

Sort of a tangent, but I suspect that the way I'm clearing the punch is also ruining the edge.  As I said, I'm using a 2mm punch.  I do punch it into wax frequently to keep it "lubricated", but I still deal with clogs every 4th or 5th punch.  I found that the easiest way to clear the punch bit was to gently hammer a #17 wire brad (finish nail) into the end of it, which pushes the plug leather out the - exhaust hole - whatever it's called, haha!  But sometimes the plug is so jammed that I have to wiggle the brad around and basically dig a layer out the tip, and I think this might be dulling the punch edge.  Is there a better way to clear such tiny punches?

Last question for now:  even if I find an easier way to clear the punches and keep them sharp, is it normal to have to clear the plug out every 4 or 5 punches?  The way they're designed - and I admit to being completely naive - it seems like the plug should just travel up the punch to the exhaust hole and fall out on it's own as you use it.  But instead it just jams up in there before it reaches the hole. 

Oh, I guess I should add that I'm working with 3/4 or 6/7 weight veg-tan straps.  Should be easy, yes?

Edited July 6, 2022 by jcwoman
added an afterthought for clarity

[toxo]

57 minutes ago, jcwoman said:

Hi all!  I have to make a dozen or so (every few months) straps for dog "collars"  (special purpose items that are similar to collars) and muzzles.  My biggest struggle so far is getting the holes for the buckle prongs lined up correctly.  I need 2mm holes, so a watchband pricking tool is too small and belt punch dies are too big.  Here is what I'm using/have tried so far:

1.  Hand rotary punch tool.  Works fine, but kills my hands after about 8 or 10 punches.  I'm also not sure how to sharpen the punch as needed.  I would like to consider this my backup or "for emergency use only" tool.

2.  I bought this desktop tool:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C4WWKN6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details     It's not a bad tool, but I strongly suspect the punches that came with it are cheap.  I'm trying to sharpen them with a drill and sandpaper but they only seem to hold the sharpness for 3 or 4 punches.  I stuck some Osborne punches in my Amazon wishlist because I read that they are high quality punches.  Should I go ahead and buy a couple?  I realize I'll need to sharpen them, too, but hope they'll hold the edge longer.

Sort of a tangent, but I suspect that the way I'm clearing the punch is also ruining the edge.  As I said, I'm using a 2mm punch.  I do punch it into wax frequently to keep it "lubricated", but I still deal with clogs every 4th or 5th punch.  I found that the easiest way to clear the punch bit was to gently hammer a #17 wire brad (finish nail) into the end of it, which pushes the plug leather out the - exhaust hole - whatever it's called, haha!  But sometimes the plug is so jammed that I have to wiggle the brad around and basically dig a layer out the tip, and I think this might be dulling the punch edge.  Is there a better way to clear such tiny punches?

Last question for now:  even if I find an easier way to clear the punches and keep them sharp, is it normal to have to clear the plug out every 4 or 5 punches?  The way they're designed - and I admit to being completely naive - it seems like the plug should just travel up the punch to the exhaust hole and fall out on it's own as you use it.  But instead it just jams up in there before it reaches the hole. 

Oh, I guess I should add that I'm working with 3/4 or 6/7 weight veg-tan straps.  Should be easy, yes?

I find these shapes very useful. I just put a strong magnet under the ram on my arbor press (similar to your press) and any of the shapes will stick to it and just pull down on the handle.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yuhtech-52Pcs-Leather-Hollow-Cutter/dp/B07YBZVQQ4/ref=pd_sbs_sccl_3_2/259-3317810-1066024?pd_rd_w=MigSu&content-id=amzn1.sym.0b2f9572-34c5-41a4-9aef-ddde079c4608&pf_rd_p=0b2f9572-34c5-41a4-9aef-ddde079c4608&pf_rd_r=CHB5VDMKRSCT23GFX5HV&pd_rd_wg=0TT3P&pd_rd_r=148c932e-7ba2-4eff-aead-aa3588658e17&pd_rd_i=B07YBZVQQ4&psc=1

[Dwight]

If you remove the square "arm" that travels up and down . . . you can then take it to a drill press . . . and drill a hole in it about an inch and a half deep . . . the size of the diameter of the punch handles . . . and by putting a piece of saran wrap (or 2 or 3) over it . . . it will stick in the hole.  Put the leather under it . . . pull down the arm . . .  presto a hole.

DON'T waste time messing around with cleaning it out . . . you punch the leather . . .it'll clean itself out . . . they are designed to do that . . . and they will do that.

ALSO . . . make sure there is another piece of ugly old leather under the piece you are punching.  THAT is where you are probably dulling your punch.

I've got punches I have never sharpened . . . have used since 2000 . . . they still punch pretty round holes . . . and I just hit em once or twice with my mallet . . . belts / sheaths / slings . . . and I've even done a couple of dog collars.

May God bless,

Dwight

[jcwoman]

I'm not following the Saran wrap thing.  The desktop punch tool has punches that I can swap out using a keyless chuck.  I can buy better quality punches and use them with it. 

I know the punches are designed to clean themselves out, but I'm finding that they just get impacted instead.  Possibly because the punches that came with the tool are cheap Chinese junk, which is why I'm thinking of buying Osborne's. 

Oh, also the tool came with a soft plate (I think nylon or some other soft plastic) that I punch into.  So it should NOT be dulling the punches, but again....  they may be cheap junk. 

[dikman]

I had a couple of punches where the punched out wads were jamming so I opened out and smoothed the back end of the punch a bit with a carbide bit in a Dremel. I'm not sure if you can do that with a 2mm punch as it's pretty small?

[Dwight]

3 hours ago, jcwoman said:

I'm not following the Saran wrap thing.  The desktop punch tool has punches that I can swap out using a keyless chuck.  I can buy better quality punches and use them with it. 

I know the punches are designed to clean themselves out, but I'm finding that they just get impacted instead.  Possibly because the punches that came with the tool are cheap Chinese junk, which is why I'm thinking of buying Osborne's. 

Oh, also the tool came with a soft plate (I think nylon or some other soft plastic) that I punch into.  So it should NOT be dulling the punches, but again....  they may be cheap junk. 

Try these . . . they are fairly inexpensive . . . work like a champ . . . 

The saran wrap is for the punch . . . if you drill the hole.  It would keep the punch from slipping out . . . But I didn't see where you could put something up in that shaft . . . and if this Tandy shaft would go up there . . . or in your keyless chuck . . . you'll love what you get here.

And I know folks use nylon . . . other plastics . . . etc . . . but a piece of leather under the one you are punching is much better for your punch faces.

Have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

https://tandyleather.com/products/mini-leather-punch-set

[TomE]

I like the Osborne rotary and spring punches.  The spring punch tubes are longer with a more gradual taper which is useful for punching through thick leather.  Both types of punch tubes are removable and can be "sharpened" on a buffing wheel.  They shouldn't be sharpened like a cutting blade, just polished to remove machining marks and trued up if the contact surface is uneven.  The copper anvil on these punches can also be trued up with a file when it becomes grooved.  The so-called punch sharpeners that bevel the inside of the punch tube will cause the leather plugs to be compressed in the tube, making them harder to eject.  If a new punch is jamming I punch through oil tanned leather or a lightweight slippery plastic until inside of the tube becomes smoother.

[fredk]

If the punch is sharp, all good advice above, but the plugs still get stuck, I use a pipe* lighter to heat the end of the punch up. The leather cooks and shrivels and can then just be tapped out

* pipe lighter, like a cigarette/cigar lighter but the flame comes out at an angle to the side and they are a bit more like a mini blow lamp

[Hardrada]

6 hours ago, fredk said:

If the punch is sharp, all good advice above, but the plugs still get stuck, I use a pipe* lighter to heat the end of the punch up. The leather cooks and shrivels and can then just be tapped out

* pipe lighter, like a cigarette/cigar lighter but the flame comes out at an angle to the side and they are a bit more like a mini blow lamp

I wouldn't light my pipe with one of those! They look like hand torches! They should probably be OK to heat up brass stamps, though.

Edited July 7, 2022 by Hardrada

[Hardrada]

@jcwoman: check out Tandy's Crafttool punches. They have sizes all the way down to 1/64" and even "needle" punches. They might not be KS Blade top notch quality, but they're still good quality. They don't clog and clean themselves out automatically. That's all I use, along with a template to: first mark the holes by pressing the punch with my hand as it sits in the template's hole over the strap, and then removing the template and lining up the punch over the mark made previously and whack it with a poly mallet. Oval punches can be tricky, but round ones are a zinch with this method and tools.
 

Edited July 7, 2022 by Hardrada