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Posted
43 minutes ago, CdK said:

Member kgg here sells a nice kit for this.

Thank you for the compliment.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

  • 7 months later...
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Posted

Dana, what handwheel did you use for this souped up CP206RL? I'm trying to find a handwheel that is larger then the original one that came with the unit. Thanks in advance for your assistance. 

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Hello, sorry for being 3 years late to the thread. Can you tell me the max thickness of vegtan that can be sewn with this supped up consew?

Thanks in advance 

Posted
17 hours ago, chefpeter said:

Hello, sorry for being 3 years late to the thread. Can you tell me the max thickness of vegtan that can be sewn with this supped up consew?

Thanks in advance 

It would be the same as the original machine as there was no change to the machine itself.  Look up the specs for Consew CP206RL.

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Posted
On 4/8/2025 at 11:56 AM, Northmount said:

It would be the same as the original machine as there was no change to the machine itself.  Look up the specs for Consew CP206RL.

Thanks

  • 10 months later...
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Posted

Sorry to resurrect a zombie thread, but I just bought a Consew CP206RL and I want to sew vegtan with it.  Of course it does just fine with the sample "leather" that is shipped under the foot, but Even some 3 oz garment leather I have causes the motor to stall.  I bought a servo motor and controller very similar to the one listed above from walmart to add to a chinese shoe patcher, but never could get the shoe patcher tension right so gave up.

Anyway, my question is about the pulley mentioned years ago in this post.  Does this pulley go on the motor shaft, or on the Sewing machine drive shaft?  The clutch on drive shaft also slips like crazy.  Does the "servo motor" drive totally eliminate this stupid clutch?  Thanks in advance! 

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Posted
On 3/8/2026 at 3:10 PM, MadMajor said:

Anyway, my question is about the pulley mentioned years ago in this post.  Does this pulley go on the motor shaft, or on the Sewing machine drive shaft?  The clutch on drive shaft also slips like crazy.  Does the "servo motor" drive totally eliminate this stupid clutch?  Thanks in advance! 

The most common pulley replacement for industrial sewing machines in general is to put a smaller-than-stock diameter pulley on the motor. 45mm is a common size replacement motor pulley for servo motors and for some clutch motors. Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ42TGY

The less common pulley replacement for industrial sewing machines in general is to put a larger-than-stock diameter pulley in place of the hand wheel. To do this you measure the diameter of the arm shaft and find the largest pulley you can from a hardware store or online retailer, that has the same inside diameter as the diameter of your arm shaft. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GASCQ8

 

@kgg may know the details of the drive shaft clutch. I have not used a CP206RL.

friquant. Like a frequent, piquant flyer.

Check out my blog: Choosing a Motor for your Industrial Sewing Machine

Posted
On 3/8/2026 at 3:10 PM, MadMajor said:

The clutch on drive shaft also slips like crazy.  Does the "servo motor" drive totally eliminate this stupid clutch? 

No,you need the belt pulley on the machine to be able to run the belt from the motor,I think Sailrite has a mega-buck geared tooth handwheel & belt system that would work.

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

No,you need the belt pulley on the machine to be able to run the belt from the motor,I think Sailrite has a mega-buck geared tooth handwheel & belt system that would work.

They call it the monster wheel.

On 3/8/2026 at 7:10 PM, MadMajor said:

The clutch on drive shaft also slips like crazy.

Here is a snap shot of the "Clutch" setup in your machine. 

The "clutch" does two jobs:

i) allows the machine to run without taking the thread from the eye of the needle while winding a bobbin by backing off the screw

ii) when the clutch stop screw is fully tightened down it allows the machine to sew. It will slip when the load is to heavy like sewing through thick or tough materials. 

The max stock thickness for these machines in reality is about 1/8" (3mm) or about 8 oz in chrome tan / soft leather and about half that in veg tan. In fabric you could probably sew a max stock thickness of 3/16" (4.7mm). I did setup a machine identical to yours to a couple of years back and if my memory is correct I modified the head so it would sew plus 3/8" (10mm) with a presser foot lift of (15mm). That machine was setup just to sew edge binding. 

The main problem with overcoming the "clutch" slipping issue is fairly simple but on machines like yours, clone of the Sailrite LS, the machine will probably jump it's timing and unlike the Sailrites there is no easy adjustment and usually requires hook / shaft replacement. 

Other annoying problems and there are many with your machine is as the thickness of the material increases the stitch length will decrease and the machine can only handle a max thread sewing size of V92.

What thickness of leather are you planning on sewing?????? 

kgg

 

 

Consew cp206rl.JPG

Edited by kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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