Hide Cutting Tips

[HeyMikey]

This is my first whole side. 7/8 oz econo. I'm trying to figure out the best way to start cutting straps from it. Looking to make some guitar, mandolin straps and a couple of belts. Holsters and sheaths with the rest maybe.

Thanks, 

 

[bland]

Cutting all depends on the projects you have planned for the hide.  There are numerous ways to cut the hide.  

For belts and straps goods the higher in the back at the butt end to toward the shoulder is best in my opinion.  Depending on the length of your straps or belts you can measure up the butt end to the desired length and cut it to length all the way across leaving the but end and shoulder end.  Or you can cut the bend (butt to shoulder minus the belly) again to your measurements.  Leaving you with the shoulder and belly attached.  Or trim off the belly and leave the top. 

The belly and neck are good for molded projects.  If you are trying to stay away from the brands you can take that into consideration as well.  Or you can incorporate them into your project.  When working with brands you need to know the leather is generally weaker in that area and doesn't stretch or form well.   

Anyway, there are many ways of cutting your leather for the projects you have in mind.  

Have Fun!

[Handstitched]

When I first get a hide, I make a straight edge for straps etc.  I just use a length of 2 x1 timber  as a giant ruler ( I do intend to get a metal one...one day) .I then  use the strap cutter. Any off-cuts get used for small items, book marks, keepers for belts and so on. 

Hope all goes well .

HS

[TomE]

A self-healing cutting mat from a fabric store is a handy item when squaring up the edge of a hide with a knife.  A sharp round knife is ideal for making long, straight cuts but most any sharp knife will get the job done.  For cutting straps you have a choice.  The wooden strap cutter is inexpensive and effective, and the blades are more-or-less sharp out of the package (but even better if you sharpen them).  A draw gauge is a handy tool for cutting medium width straps, but requires some practice and the blade must be sharpened before use.  @bruce johnson has a helpful tutorial on holding the draw gauge at the Bruce Johnson Leather Tools website.  The Cadillac (Rolls Royce?) of strap cutters is the plough gauge, especially for wide straps,  but they are expensive and have a learning curve for sharpening and using the plough gauge.  You will want to cut each strap along the full length of the hide, starting with the best leather along the back of the cow.  You will notice the difference in substance at the butt (firm) versus the shoulder (spongey).  The strongest/firmest straps come from the butt near the top of the cow. 

Edited August 25, 2022 by TomE

[jcuk]

7 hours ago, Handstitched said:

When I first get a hide, I make a straight edge for straps etc.  I just use a length of 2 x1 timber  as a giant ruler ( I do intend to get a metal one...one day) .I then  use the strap cutter. Any off-cuts get used for small items, book marks, keepers for belts and so on. 

Hope all goes well .

HS

This what i use for a straight edge.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-featheredge-70/722pr

Hope this helps

JCUK

 

[toxo]

For those big long hides you won't get a straighter line than a chalk line. You can buy em but any piece of string will do. Just rub along it with some chalk, stretch it tight along the hide and ping it. And if you ever need an absolute 90 degree right angle on a big area use the 3,4,5 method.

[JLSleather]

I got a 6' aluminum "ruler" and a 24"x16" "carpenter square" from Menards... in the drywall section.  Cheap,  straight, 72" long, and doesn't corrode or mark the leather.  Worked well for years now.

As for how to divy up the hide, this is what i generally do for the type of projects you're on about.

Measure over from the right side (the back or spine) at each end so you have a line roughly parallel to the spine and cut off the belly.  This belly leather is useless for straps, but often is fine for lining belts or straps.

 

Then measure about 60" from the butt end and cut off the neck square to the belly cut you made.  

 

Then just lay your straight edge on the side where shown in your picture and cut the straight line.

This will leave you with a rectangle of good solid leather for straps, usually about 60" x 24" (you can go wider by cutting less of the belly off, but again the lower you go the softer the leather).

This rectangle is your leather for belts, straps.  Figure about  10" longer than the "size" for belts, so this lets you cut belts for people up to size 50 (which is MOST people) without a lot of waste. 

*Cutting straps from the full length of the hide will leave you with a bunch of short (18-24") pieces not that convenient. (NOTE that a guy making guitar straps might be able to use some these shorts for 2-piece straps, just add a buckle).

 

The SHOULDER (the part above the 60" cut off) is good for holsters, knife sheaths, and other small projects that require firm leather.

 

And again the belly leather is often acceptable for strap LINING or for small projects not requiring strength (like wallets, not carved, for example).

[HeyMikey]

Thanks for all the responses. I have a strap cutter. The chalk line is a great idea.

This hide just looked a little narrow on one end (shoulder end I think). I'm just going to jump in a see how it goes. I'll report back what I end up with. Better to practice and learn with a $100 side than a $300 side.

Thanks again, Mike

[fredk]

I would cut this just about the same as JLSleather. But after cutting off the shoulder I use my strap cutter to cut lengths of various widths of straps. I don't make too many belts these days and most use buckles of 30mm minimum to about 40mm. So I cut as many straps as I think I might want, trying not to get too far towards the belly part of the hide. This gets the better belting leather off and out of the way because I use more of the more flexible leather

[MedusaOblongata]