Chisel Size for Pocket Projects?

[TomE]

I agree that using an awl is fast and learning how to clamp the work so that your awling is consistent is just as important as how to juggle the awl and needles. And awling is fun!

[Tugadude]

16 hours ago, NDphung said:

If you have access to Instagram there is a recent post by "industrialconcepts" who makes stamping machines and many great leathercrafters share their irons-thread size they use (Peter Nitz, Carswell Leather, Mila Jito etc.)

Would be helpful if you could provide a link.  I tried to look them up on Instagram but was unsuccessful.  If they have helpful information it should be detailed here.

[NDphung]

2 hours ago, Tugadude said:

Would be helpful if you could provide a link.  I tried to look them up on Instagram but was unsuccessful.  If they have helpful information it should be detailed here.

https://www.instagram.com/industrialdesignconcept/

I hope this work sorry I am pretty bad using the different platform.

It is one of their latest post for a contest. In the comment section you get many leathercrafters describe their favorite combination and sometimes their journey and evolution. I found it very informative.

 

[Danne]

19 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

yup awls take practice and skill. chisels don't that's why folks rely on them so much, me included.

When you learn to use an awl you take about an hours chisel work from the equation, it becomes simpler and faster to use only an awl and two needles.

Another thing i found is if your clam is built correctly you can use the edge of the clam as a guide for your awl Check out an antique glovers clam sometime its built with notches along the edge that guide your awl and space it to make a perfect stitch line.

Most of my wallets have their exteriors punched before glued to lining, and after fully assembled holes are opened with an awl. And it's not as hard as many people believe. I did struggle a lot at first, but when I finally learned how to sharpen my awl correctly, it didn't take that much practice to get straight holes. A wine cork on the back side can be very helpful to avoid distorting the leather. And if someone wonder why I use an awl for wallets, the reason is because i prefer stitching from the exterior side, and interior leather will have skived edges so punching all the way through is not possible (not with good results)

[Tugadude]

24 minutes ago, NDphung said:

https://www.instagram.com/industrialdesignconcept/

I hope this work sorry I am pretty bad using the different platform.

It is one of their latest post for a contest. In the comment section you get many leathercrafters describe their favorite combination and sometimes their journey and evolution. I found it very informative.

 

Thanks.  It is the first in the items on the page.  I says "The Perfect Stitching:  What Does It Require"

[NDphung]

Just now, Tugadude said:

Thanks.  It is the first in the items on the page.  I says "The Perfect Stitching:  What Does It Require"

Yes

 

[NDphung]

Following up on my previous about the OKA Diagonal (french style) and Diamond Chisel I manage to sew quickly for comparison. Note the leather is very low quality scrap leather.

 

From Left to Right 

1) OKA 5mm Diamond w/ Ritza 1.0 mm and John James 002 aka #2 (It is actually the same size as #1 or #3 i.e. 1.02 mm DIA and 54mm Length)

2) OKA 4mm Diamond w/ Ritza 0.8 mm and John James 004 aka #4 (0.86 mm DIA and 48mm Length)

3) OKA 3.5mm Diagonal (French Style) w/Vinymo #8 System S+U #5

4) RML 3.85mm Diagonal (Euro Style)  w/Vinymo #8 System S+U #5

5) JunLin 3.00mm Diagonal w/ Xiange #30 System S+U #7

6) OKA 3.00mm Diamond w/ Xiange #30 System S+U #7

Personally I don't think the OKA 3.5 mm Diagonal (discussed in earlier post is not too bad especially considering how cheap that chisel is compared to the budget RML or the Junlin. The biggest drawback is that the biggest they offer is 6 Teeth so If you have long stitch line it is far from ideal. Their 3.00mm Diamond is also a surprise because of the high SPI I expect worse performance but it holds its own.  My wife (with a western background) loves the low SPI and the thick thread, I prefer higher SPI and thinner thread. 

I would love to hear from all of you on the topics of chisel size and thread and needle selection.

[Tugadude]

NDphung, all of the examples are more than adequate and would look just fine depending on the project.  The thicker thread isn't my style, but would look just fine on large bags, holsters, etc.  

My preference is the 3.0mm and both the diamond and flat irons yield a very attractive, consistent result.  

Thanks for sharing your work with us!

[NDphung]

2 hours ago, Danne said:

Most of my wallets have their exteriors punched before glued to lining, and after fully assembled holes are opened with an awl. And it's not as hard as many people believe. I did struggle a lot at first, but when I finally learned how to sharpen my awl correctly, it didn't take that much practice to get straight holes. A wine cork on the back side can be very helpful to avoid distorting the leather. And if someone wonder why I use an awl for wallets, the reason is because i prefer stitching from the exterior side, and interior leather will have skived edges so punching all the way through is not possible (not with good results)

Thanks again for the tips, I will have to try this. May I have a couple of questions?

1) You use a wine cork on the backside, so do you clamp your wallet on a vertical stitching clamp? I have seen some crafters lay down their work on a flat rubber/cork surface and literally use an awl to go through the punched/marked holes from the top layer.

2) Do you stitch with an awl on your hand or you use an awl only to open the holes?

3) When you sharpen your awl do you keep its Diamond shape or you sharpen it to a straight blade?

Thanks for the great advices as always.

[Danne]

42 minutes ago, NDphung said:

Thanks again for the tips, I will have to try this. May I have a couple of questions?

1) You use a wine cork on the backside, so do you clamp your wallet on a vertical stitching clamp? I have seen some crafters lay down their work on a flat rubber/cork surface and literally use an awl to go through the punched/marked holes from the top layer.

2) Do you stitch with an awl on your hand or you use an awl only to open the holes?

3) When you sharpen your awl do you keep its Diamond shape or you sharpen it to a straight blade?

Thanks for the great advices as always.

1. I have it clamed on my stitching clamp when I open the holes with my awl, it wouldn't work on a flat surface since the edges of the wallets interior are skived, so it wouldn't lay flat, and if it did I could instead punch all the way through with stitching irons.

2. I find that I get a more consistent result if I open up like the whole row of holes before I stitch, then I reposition the wallet to stitch another part, and first open those holes with an awl also. That way I feel more certain that I have the same angle all the time. 

3. I first cut of the sharp tip, then I flatten it to an oval shape. A lot of people don't want to spend the time doing this and then Palosanto have awls that people seem happy with, and they are already sharp and have a good profile.