Chandler Chansew CU-563 (Juki LU-563 clone or rebadge (not sure which one))

[sojourner999]

Hello again,

Thanks for all the help on the Consew 206-RB4 I acquired previously.  Since then, I have added a speed reducer and am very pleased with that machine.  That said, I ran across a deal on a Juki LU-563 clone or re-badge.   A Chandler Chandsew / CU563.   It sewed fwd and reverse.  There is a minor hiccup with the button for stitch length selection.  It might need replaced or just some oiling.  It won't catch in the detent to allow changing stitch length.   And it is missing the nose cone? / side plate.  Both should be easy fixes. 

Anyway, after I clean it up, fix the selector and time/setup I am considering using it for purely binding or leather or maybe both.   I started looking at Uwe's videos and will work with them when setting up.  

Does anyone have information on this chandler?  meaning is it a re-badge of a juki or a clone made by someone else?   

Also, can anyone point me to pdf downloads of owners manual, service manual and parts manual?

Much appreciated!

Tom

[CowboyBob]

Here's a parts & operators manual for the Juki 563 & all the parts should interchange.

Juki_LU_562_563_Manual.pdf Juki_LU-562,_-563-1.pdf

[sojourner999]

3 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

Here's a parts & operators manual for the Juki 563 & all the parts should interchange.

Juki_LU_562_563_Manual.pdf 7.15 MB · 0 downloads Juki_LU-562,_-563-1.pdf 12.82 MB · 0 downloads

Thanks!   PDFs downloaded.

[shoepatcher]

Looks like a rebadged early Juki.

glenn

[sojourner999]

16 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:

Looks like a rebadged early Juki.

glenn

Thanks.  
 

Are you familiar with any differences with rebadged (assumed Juki produced and chandler put it’s name on the machine) versus clone (where I assume it was made in China to same specs as the original Juki)?
 

 

Edited December 19, 2022 by sojourner999

[SARK9]

I've had/have several "real" Juki LU-563s and an older Chandler badged "CU-563" which as far as I could tell, was identical to the Juki machines. I also have a Chandler badged 562 which is printed "Made in Japan" under the badge, rather than stamped ON the badge, as is seen on my Jukis. The quality of these older chandler marked machines was on par with my genuine Juki products as far as I could tell.  The Chandler "562" shows 200R on the badge, and could possibly be a rebadged Consew 226R for all I know, rather than a Juki, except I don't see SEIKO cast on the underside of the bed as I think was done on most of the early Consew contract machines. The Chandler badge might ding the resale a bit,  and that was the only downside I saw, as they are fine users, and the 563 actually had the BA0 hook assembly installed, though who knows if it was original to the build. I never felt handicapped in the slightest with any of them.  -DC

Edited December 19, 2022 by SARK9

[Quade]

I have the stitch length button out on my Singer.  It's just a button with a spring and a C clip to hold it in place. When you press it down, it engages with a disk on the shaft. It holds the disk in place. When you turn the hand wheel, the shaft turns,  this changes the "gear ratio" by lengthening and shortening the stroke of an arm. 

I'd flip her over, then look at the center shaft which is either belt driven or gear driven. Press the button down, turn the hand wheel forward and see if the center shaft turns. You should see the eccentric mechanism and arm and you should see the disk which has a cut-out the button is supposed to engage.  I'd see if the button seems aligned with the cut-out.  You can hold the disk in place with a screwdriver or pliers and try turning the hand wheel to make sure it actually adjusts and isn't stuck. 

You can see it on page 3 of the parts manual posted above. 

Edited December 19, 2022 by Quade

[sojourner999]

2 hours ago, SARK9 said:

I've had/have several "real" Juki LU-563s and an older Chandler badged "CU-563" which as far as I could tell, was identical to the Juki machines. I also have a Chandler badged 562 which is printed "Made in Japan" under the badge, rather than stamped ON the badge, as is seen on my Jukis. The quality of these older chandler marked machines was on par with my genuine Juki products as far as I could tell.  The Chandler "562" shows 200R on the badge, and could possibly be a rebadged Consew 226R for all I know, rather than a Juki, except I don't see SEIKO cast on the underside of the bed as I think was done on most of the early Consew contract machines. The Chandler badge might ding the resale a bit,  and that was the only downside I saw, as they are fine users, and the 563 actually had the BA0 hook assembly installed, though who knows if it was original to the build. I never felt handicapped in the slightest with any of them.  -DC

Thanks for the info.  I didn’t see anything stamped that would make me think it was an original Juki.  But as long as it is Juki level quality, I should be good.

[sojourner999]

1 hour ago, Quade said:

I have the stitch length button out on my Singer.  It's just a button with a spring and a C clip to hold it in place. When you press it down, it engages with a disk on the shaft. It holds the disk in place. When you turn the hand wheel, the shaft turns,  this changes the "gear ratio" by lengthening and shortening the stroke of an arm. 

I'd flip her over, then look at the center shaft which is either belt driven or gear driven. Press the button down, turn the hand wheel forward and see if the center shaft turns. You should see the eccentric mechanism and arm and you should see the disk which has a cut-out the button is supposed to engage.  I'd see if the button seems aligned with the cut-out.  You can hold the disk in place with a screwdriver or pliers and try turning the hand wheel to make sure it actually adjusts and isn't stuck. 

You can see it on page 3 of the parts manual posted above. 

Thank you.  @Jhunter13 walked me through this when I was at the sellers property.  It is belt drive.  I can see the cutout.  I line it up with the disk, but it doesn’t appear to catch.  I tried holding a screw driver on the disk and was able to turn the hand wheel, so it appears it is not stuck.   I just can’t get the stitch length button to catch the indent.  Looking at it, from a weird angle, it appears to not be centered in the cutout.  Maybe it could also be the button was ground down from improper use?  
 

How would you remove and re-install the stitch length button?  And if it is not the button being too short, can you recommend how I would adjust the “left/right” of the disk so the button is in line with it?

 

much appreciated,

[Jhunter13]

3 minutes ago, sojourner999 said:

Thank you.  @Jhunter13 walked me through this when I was at the sellers property.  It is belt drive.  I can see the cutout.  I line it up with the disk, but it doesn’t appear to catch.  I tried holding a screw driver on the disk and was able to turn the hand wheel, so it appears it is not stuck.   I just can’t get the stitch length button to catch the indent.  Looking at it, from a weird angle, it appears to not be centered in the cutout.  Maybe it could also be the button was ground down from improper use?  
 

How would you remove and re-install the stitch length button?  And if it is not the button being too short, can you recommend how I would adjust the “left/right” of the disk so the button is in line with it?

 

much appreciated,

Simply remove the e-clip from the underside of the feed eccentric adjustment knob (the stitch length adjustment button) and it will come out from the top side along with the spring.  

[CowboyBob]

17 hours ago, sojourner999 said:

Thank you.  @Jhunter13 walked me through this when I was at the sellers property.  It is belt drive.  I can see the cutout.  I line it up with the disk, but it doesn’t appear to catch.  I tried holding a screw driver on the disk and was able to turn the hand wheel, so it appears it is not stuck.   I just can’t get the stitch length button to catch the indent.  Looking at it, from a weird angle, it appears to not be centered in the cutout.  Maybe it could also be the button was ground down from improper use?  
 

How would you remove and re-install the stitch length button?  And if it is not the button being too short, can you recommend how I would adjust the “left/right” of the disk so the button is in line with it?

 

much appreciated,

Looks to me like you need to loosen the 2-screws that hold the stitch length cam to the shaft & only turn them 1/4 turn(because one of them goes into a slot on the shaft) & then tap on it to slide it to the left so it lines up.

Edited December 20, 2022 by CowboyBob

[sojourner999]

1 hour ago, CowboyBob said:

Looks to me like you need to loosen the 2-screws that hold the stitch length cam to the shaft & only turn them 1/4 turn(because one of them goes into a slot on the shaft) & then tap on it to slide it to the left so it lines up.

Thank you.  I am going to look into that.  I am reading the manuals now.