Rex 26-188 Jammed up

[Frodo]

I think I got the timing correct and moved on to tension

here us what and where I am at now 

Top

 

bottom

 

 

[Quade]

What they recommend for tension is use a different color for top and bottom threads so you can see where the knot is.   

[Frodo]

I am not saying What I did is perfect or right. I followed what I think the wording of the manual says

when the needle is at its lowest position

the TIP of the needle must be on a level line with the bottom of the hook

when that is achieved then the next paragraph becomes true 

 

I was asked to show the tension using different  thread colors

Top black

bottom green

 

 

[Frodo]

Man Ii hate not being able to edit 

here is the whole wording from the manual

when needle bar at its lowest position, needle TIP and internal part of shuttle hook ( inside diameter of hook/ bottom edge)

must be on level line. 
 

when needle bar is raised and hook point of shuttle comes on the center line of needle  a distance between hook and EYE of needle must be 1.6mm. / 1/16”

[DonInReno]

6 hours ago, Frodo said:

when needle bar is raised and hook point of shuttle comes on the center line of needle  a distance between hook and EYE of needle must be 1.6mm. / 1/16”

Yep, after the needle starts to rise (about the thickness of a nickel is most commonly recommended for most machines) , the eye should be 1/16” BELOW the tip of the hook as they pass each other.  That might be what you said - I’m just double checking.

The horizontal gap BETWEEN the needle and hook needs to be as close to zero as you can get without touching.   Most manuals give a range for this gap, but as close as possible is ideal - that’s not just my option, but guys managing big sewing shops have said zero is just right.  Heck one of those guys said if the needle is deflected a a tiny amount he won’t change it.

Its a little hard to tell how sharp that hook is, but it looks a little blunt, which doesn’t help it grab the thread cleanly.   It may sew great, but if you still get odd skipped stitches, or the hook seems to be impacting the thread once in a while instead of cleanly hooking around it, then you might look into sharpening it a bit.    Its hard to explain, other than recommending looking at a nice sharp hook and duplicating the angle and polish on it.

Probably more hooks have been damaged beyond repair than have been saved by well intentioned first timers, but you’re pretty handy and I’d bet it’s something you might try so I’ll briefly hit on it:

Keep in mind you aren’t taking material away from the needle side or outer diameter of the hook.  Also, don’t reduce the length.  Having a good hook right there makes it easy to know where to remove material.

 It won’t be perfect - we’re just reducing any bluntness.   I picked up an old singer with 1/4” of the hook broken off - sharpened what was left until the new hook arrived - it’s sewn threw a pound of thread without a single skipped thread so I’ve never installed the new hook yet.

Sandpaper glued on a popsicle stick, or even fingernail emory boards work well - the tip of the hook is thin and it won’t take much.   I’ll use 220 grit to get the shape, then 400 followed by 800 to get any scratch marks out.  Finally going over the whole hook with 1200 or 1500 grit cleans up any minor surface rust and blends the new tip in so nobody should be able to tell you’ve done anything.

Anyway, good job on your progress!   You are learning your machines inside and out.

edit:   I almost forgot to mention, if at all possible keep an original Singer hook - replacement Chinese hooks are dirt cheap, but they are often soft metal and may not be shaped correctly.  

Edited January 26, 2023 by DonInReno

[Frodo]

Thanks for the words

i know enough to be dangerous anything else that happens along the way is pure luck and s surprise

[Beanwood]

I'm only an amateur compared to most on here, but I think your top tension needs to tighten a litle to bring the knot more central in the leather. 

[Frodo]

1 hour ago, Beanwood said:

I'm only an amateur compared to most on here, but I think your top tension needs to tighten a litle to bring the knot more central in the leather. 

Thanks,   How tight is to tight?  
it is as tight as Dicks hat band right now

The thread exits the thread tree goes through the post on the rear of the machine up to the front

it turns a 90 degree turn in a tension disc

Travels down to another tension disc bwhere it contacts 90%

ip to the thread take up

down to the needle via 2 rings

 

[Beanwood]

I think as it comes down from the first tension pulley to the second, it should go direct, not around the 'hook'. Once around the botttom tension disc, that's when you go through the bottom hook, and check spring (That appears to be missing).

Are you sure it's seated into the tension discs, and not just sat around the edges. (If they're too tight, it may not be all the way 'in')

Are we allowed to link to You tube on here ? If so, look at this, about 1:30 in and onwards.

 

[CowboyBob]

Here's the threading,your missing the check spring adjuster & screw on your machine

[Frodo]

What is that word?   Cobbled?

lol. Well it is not factory specs it is cobbled together but it works 

I installled the check swing tension thingy

  I had to use a screw from a bobbin case spring .  And s tea cup hook.  
 

going to need new springs, screws 

Most aggravating thing I have ever worked on. I had to use needle nose pliers just to hold that little sob (screw) 

[Frodo]

Installing the check swing tension helped out a lot, but I am having an issue with the adjuster fitting

correct me if Iam wrong but the only thing holding the adjuster in pkk look ace is one set screw?   My issue is the back side of the adjuster does not want to stay in the grove,  it wants to raise up. This causes a gap between the rear disc and the tension release hook. It (tension release) wants to catch the adjuster 

 

[Quade]

On a typical machine, when the manual foot lift is up, the tension disks on that end tensioner should be loose so any comparing of thread tension should be done with the foot down.    With the foot up, the thread should pull through relatively easily. 

I notice you have the tensioner screwed all the way in. Makes me wonder if you're not factoring in the release when the manual lift is up.  It's possible for the tensioner to be too far into the machine so the tension disk are always in released state even with the manual lift lever down.    On my Juki, there's a little pin that connects to the lift lever which pushes the disks apart while threading.  If the tensioner is set too deep into the machine, this pin will open the disks even with the lever down.  The fact you see the tensioner move after you tighten it, suggests, you're running into an issue like this. 

I think you should loosen the tensioner to maybe 1/2 tension. Then unscrew the set screw that holds it in place. Then slide the tensioner in and out till you feel some contact. If you push it in more, does it release the disks? 

 

 

Edited January 28, 2023 by Quade

[Frodo]

Listened to you Quade

backed off the tension and rerouted

thread plus built a top tensioner

the results are a tight top /bottom on a stitch line

I am not sure the ck tensioner is installed correctly but it is working  I think

 

[Beanwood]

The check spring you've put in - is it actually moving? It needs to start in the position shown in red, then move up to where it's shown in your photo. It returns to the red position, keeping the thread tension when the take up lever drops down again..  

[Frodo]

[Frodo]

Put the Rex to the test thus last few days

I have a box of ostrich and Lizard pieces left over so I started sewing the pieces together to Make a bag

the bag is rustic not a lot of effort was put into it keep it square or with out flaw

 

the brown ostrich on the front is a big pocket

rhere are 4 more pockets inslde

 

machine did surprisingly well, t did not like sewing anything thicker than 7 oz is

[Frodo]

Adjusting walking foot height

I figured out how to adjust the height of the walking foot.  I knew that the foot would only walk if the pressor foot had tension on it from the spring but what was escaping me was how to raise the foot,  so I have been handicapped with 1/4” allowable height

Till I dropped the pressor foot down lower and locked it with the pressor bar screw. 
the height now is 3/8”  I can live with that 

 

[CowboyBob]

Nice looking bag & glad to hear you got it sewing again!!